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How To: Convert the charging port on Astro A50 from Micro USB to Type C

Remixt

This is an update to my original post. I converted my headphones to charge using USB type C about a month ago, and I have had no problems so far. Since I couldn't find anything about this type of mod on Google I wanted to include a parts list and pictures for any future modders out there.

 

BEFORE YOU START

  • This is not sexy. This mod works wonderfully, but your headset will be ugly as sin.
  • WILL NOT work with wired controllers, as it requires the removal of the controller outlet.

 

Parts and Tools:

1. Soldering Iron and Solder. I used this soldering kit, but any decent one with temperature control (~ 350C ) will work.

2. USB Type C FEMALE board

3. Hot glue or other adhesive

4. Electrical tape

5. Small Phillips Screwdriver

 

 

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CPU: Ryzen 5950X Ram: Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR4 3600 CL14 | Graphics: GIGABYTE GAMING OC RTX 3090 |  Mobo: GIGABYTE B550 AORUS MASTER | Storage: SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 2TB PSU: Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 - 1500W | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU & LG C1

 

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Could you make this look prettier by using a drilling tool of some sort that would cut a nice, clean USB C-shaped hole in the plastic?

|PSU Tier List /80 Plus Efficiency| PSU stuff if you need it. 

My system: PCPartPicker || For Corsair support tag @Corsair Josephor @Corsair Nick || My 5MT Legacy GT Wagon ||

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41 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Could you make this look prettier by using a drilling tool of some sort that would cut a nice, clean USB C-shaped hole in the plastic?

Nah, I would have if I could. The component placement makes that pretty hard to do without risking the integrity of the earcup.

CPU: Ryzen 5950X Ram: Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR4 3600 CL14 | Graphics: GIGABYTE GAMING OC RTX 3090 |  Mobo: GIGABYTE B550 AORUS MASTER | Storage: SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 2TB PSU: Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 - 1500W | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU & LG C1

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey there!

 

Made an account to reply. I had the exact same issue happen to me. I was able to use your post here to fix the problem myself just as you did. Thanks a lot. This saved me a lot of money.

 

Pictures:

 

 

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11 hours ago, sohnsat said:

-Snip-

 

No problem, glad my post was useful to someone!

CPU: Ryzen 5950X Ram: Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR4 3600 CL14 | Graphics: GIGABYTE GAMING OC RTX 3090 |  Mobo: GIGABYTE B550 AORUS MASTER | Storage: SEAGATE FIRECUDA 520 2TB PSU: Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 - 1500W | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU & LG C1

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...

So i wanted to respond to this and ask.. the j1 wire, how were you able to determin where it should go? and you have had no issues charging ? also what version of the astros do you have.. gen 1 2 3?

 

ive wired in a micro usb to replace my broken port and it worked for a bit and then some thing happened and it would play out the head phones any more.. and upon trying to reair my head phones will not go itnto pairing mode.. red light blinks slowly and then faster..

 

unplugged my head phones show that there beibg charged even when they are not ..

 

so besides the j1 wire the little resistors on the original board.. are we sure they dont play any sort of roll in this head phones funcanality?

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You could have bought a smaller type-c connector, and solder it on a small prototyping board

Here's some examples:

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/1054500101/WM12856CT-ND/5843891

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jae-electronics/DX07B024JJ1R1500/670-2795-1-ND/5246071

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jae-electronics/DX07S024XJ1R1100/670-2848-1-ND/5604380

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jae-electronics/DX07S024JJ3R1300/670-2846-6-ND/5395890

 

example of prototyping board or strip board

 

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10CM-5x10cm-Multi-Hole-Prototype-Paper-PCB-Universal-Matrix-Circuit-Board-DIY/392174955761

2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Board-Printed-Circuit-PCB-Vero-Prototyping-Track-Packs-of-5/261199157440

 

Get a bit of prototyping board that's just big enough to fit the i/o pins and the case retention pins, use a small drill or dremel to enlarge some holes on the prototyping board

The ground and voltage pins are separated, voltage is towards the center of the connector, ground is on the edges, so you can cut the data pins or insulate them and just solder down the grounds to individual strips and voltage pins to another strip on the prototyping board.

 

or you could have custom made a circuit board to move the pads to the sides of the type-c connector so that the overall area would be smaller

 

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  • 1 year later...

After fixing a A50 and finding no sources on the A50 usb pcb, here are the breakout/some details and information in case anyone else are looking for it:

The two SMDs (surface mounted devices) designated F are fuses. They should ohm 0 between them. The third SMD designated with a C is just a decoupling capacitor between 5V and the ground plane. It is just to smooth out the current.

 

A normal breakoutboard from e.g. ebay will not have these three doodads, but dont worry. They are not critical. If you have a breakout board without them, just put the red to V+/VCC/5V(or whatever it says on your board), black to GND/G1/G/G0 and the yellow to D-. The yellow wire is acting as a sense-wire that tells your headset when it is being applied external power. 

 

Cheers

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks

 

For all the advice I here particularly the dad who attempted the first repair and the lad who gave me the wiring layout for the micro usb breakout board.

 

I am going to be doing this soon with a breakout board from eaby.

 

I will be mounting the new port externally in a neatly 3d printed housing which I will stick somewhere we're it looks good.

 

Planing on just tapping the wires of the original board so that it's more a retrofit then a replacement.

 

I will post pictures once my parts arrive

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I just finished changing the USB port of my Astro A50 gen2. I ordered the smallest USB type C female connector with board on Aliexpress. I had 5 pieces for 2 euro's. These small ones are way easier fitted in the housing. The only thing you'll need to do is use a small knife to cut the hole a small bit bigger and it will fit perfectly! I still can use my 3.5mm connector and I didnt have to use hot glue! :)

lool.jpeg

lol.jpeg

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/26/2020 at 5:12 PM, EraseNL said:

I just finished changing the USB port of my Astro A50 gen2. I ordered the smallest USB type C female connector with board on Aliexpress. I had 5 pieces for 2 euro's. These small ones are way easier fitted in the housing. The only thing you'll need to do is use a small knife to cut the hole a small bit bigger and it will fit perfectly! I still can use my 3.5mm connector and I didnt have to use hot glue! :)

lool.jpeg

lol.jpeg

Hi EraseNL, i just ordered the same ports for my a50's. Could you tell me how you soldered the wiring? i can't find what to do with the yellow wire. 

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  • 5 months later...

Hi guys. Sorry I know this thread is old any help would be appreciated . My micro USB port is dead on my Astro A50 gen 2. I found a female usb c Pcb on Amazon see pictures below. Can I just replace the Astro one with this one in the pictures. Red-vbus black -ground and I heard yellow to D-  any safety issues I should be concerned about. I’m not a electronics guru. Just want to make it look good. And function as it should. Thank you.  

9E077811-C1DE-48EF-AED4-25C69A2C1495.png

2B594BCB-D76E-4EA5-92DB-8FB2EFD3304E.png

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