I Just Overclocked a 60hz laptop monitor to 120hz!!!!!!!!!!

[FakezZ]

So I really cannot believe it. My laptop's monitor (1080p) can actually overclock to 120hz from 60 hz!!!!!!! And the difference is definately noticeable! However, is it safe to run it so much higher than its factory settings?

[Coombzy]

you doubled its refresh rate probably reducing its lifespan dramatically 

[Freaky_spider]

turn the monitor on and wait 1 hour to see how hot it gets... if it get to hot to touch its not normal and will damage the panel (even OC'ing it a little will cause damage but wont make a big difference in lifespan)

[Faroeseviking]

I wouldn't

[Osmium]

Oh god, I have never heard of an overclock that high on a monitor. To my knowledge nobody has really recorded any adverse affects of cranking up the refresh rate but I would be hesitant. Keep the panel heat in check.

[FakezZ]

Yeah but everything seems to be just fine. I mean it displays everything correctly and there are no artifacts. Hm I guess I am just gonna leave it at 120hz for some time to see if everything stays okay

[FakezZ]

Oh god, I have never heard of an overclock that high on a monitor. To my knowledge nobody has really recorded any adverse affects of cranking up the refresh rate but I would be hesitant. Keep the panel heat in check.

I guess I could probably go further, but I am kinda afraid to do it on a laptop. I just can't imagine the hassle if the display craps out

[OutlawedConsole]

Yeah but everything seems to be just fine. I mean it displays everything correctly and there are no artifacts. Hm I guess I am just gonna leave it at 120hz for some time to see if everything stays okay

haha lol keep us updated

[Osmium]

I guess I could probably go further, but I am kinda afraid to do it on a laptop. I just can't imagine the hassle if the display craps out

Is the panel warm to the touch?

[FakezZ]

Is the panel warm to the touch?

Not for now, but it has been only like 10 mins since I OCed it. I will keep you guys posted. Damnnnn it is night and I will have to go to sleep in 30 mins

[Osmium]

Not for now, but it has been only like 10 mins since I OCed it. I will keep you guys posted. Damnnnn it is night and I will have to go to sleep in 30 mins

Turn off the display before you go to sleep, you do not want to find out in the morning it did not work if you catch my drift. But I am very interested to hear how this plays out.

[M-ursu]

...BAM...

[legopc]

pics or it didnt happen 

[Alex(PlayMedium)]

Daaamn nice OC, just make sure it works properly. Best would be to play a game at 120FPS with vsync on and pay attention to any stuttering that happens. If any happens and your framerate doesn't change at the same time(You can monitor that with the demo version of fraps for example) I'd go back to 60hz.

[FakezZ]

Sorry for being a noob, but how do I attach an image?

[FakezZ]

pics or it didnt happen 

Here you go

[FakezZ]

Sorry for being a noob, but how do I attach an image?

Nvermind I found out

[aithos]

Why are people acting like this is surprising?  There are plenty of panels that you can overclock to 120hz, unfortunately for the OP nearly all of them do it by dropping frames so  he probably isn't actually running 120hz.  If you want to test you can go to testufo and see if it passes, but chances are it won't pass.  The only monitors I know of that are 60hz that can actually hit 120hz and do it without dropping frames are the 4 Korean panel IPS monitors that have a single input (dual-dvi) and no scaler.  They call them bypass models because there is literally no processing done on the image so there isn't input lag, the byproduct of having such a basic PCB is you can set the refresh to 120hz and it will actually display it.

 

Also, there have been people running their monitors overclocked for well over a year without any actual side effects.  I still wouldn't recommend it on this monitor since it's highly likely he is just dropping frames, but meh.  Look up the QNIX QX2710, the XSTAR DP2710 (same monitor), the Yamasaki Catleap 2b or the Overlord TempestOC if you are interested in the ones that actually OC...

[FakezZ]

Okay so it has been ~40 minutes the display is on and everything is normal. It hasn't really gotten warm, just a bit more than it was in the beginning. I will probably upload a video on Youtube tomorrow, but for now I will go to sleep Night guys!

[GoodBytes]

It's been over 3 years I have my laptop panel overclocked to 90Hz. Anything above makes the colors even more terrible than what they are. I guess some might not care, I do. The reason I have done it, is not because I want speed, but rather because the back-light is PWM controlled, and I have discovered that, for my laptop, it goes with the refresh rate in some fashion. PWM controlled illumination is annoying for me, as instead of actually having a dimming circuit, it flickers the back light on and off at a certain rate. It must be noted that since the overclock my screen doesn't go down in illumination as before. It must said that my laptop is actually 5 over years old, and at the time, LED backlight on a laptop was new, and mostly, on business class high-end systems. Although, there were consumer grade monitors with it. I got it right on the edge where nearly every laptop had LED back light. A welcome feature for thinner laptops and save power.

 

PWM back light doesn't makes me headaches like many (majority of people its not a issue), but I sense it, and it's a annoying after long sessions.

[FakezZ]

Why are people acting like this is surprising?  There are plenty of panels that you can overclock to 120hz, unfortunately for the OP nearly all of them do it by dropping frames so  he probably isn't actually running 120hz.  If you want to test you can go to testufo and see if it passes, but chances are it won't pass.  The only monitors I know of that are 60hz that can actually hit 120hz and do it without dropping frames are the 4 Korean panel IPS monitors that have a single input (dual-dvi) and no scaler.  They call them bypass models because there is literally no processing done on the image so there isn't input lag, the byproduct of having such a basic PCB is you can set the refresh to 120hz and it will actually display it.

 

Also, there have been people running their monitors overclocked for well over a year without any actual side effects.  I still wouldn't recommend it on this monitor since it's highly likely he is just dropping frames, but meh.  Look up the QNIX QX2710, the XSTAR DP2710 (same monitor), the Yamasaki Catleap 2b or the Overlord TempestOC if you are interested in the ones that actually OC...

Okay I managed to do the testufo last night and it did actually display 120hz, so It passed. I will post pics after school

[FakezZ]

It's been over 3 years I have my laptop panel overclocked to 90Hz. Anything above makes the colors even more terrible than what they are. I guess some might not care, I do. The reason I have done it, is not because I want speed, but rather because the back-light is PWM controlled, and I have discovered that, for my laptop, it goes with the refresh rate in some fashion. PWM controlled illumination is annoying for me, as instead of actually having a dimming circuit, it flickers the back light on and off at a certain rate. It must be noted that since the overclock my screen doesn't go down in illumination as before. It must said that my laptop is actually 5 over years old, and at the time, LED backlight on a laptop was new, and mostly, on business class high-end systems. Although, there were consumer grade monitors with it. I got it right on the edge where nearly every laptop had LED back light. A welcome feature for thinner laptops and save power.

 

PWM back light doesn't makes me headaches like many (majority of people its not a issue), but I sense it, and it's a annoying after long sessions.

I think that my laptop's display is LCD, but I am not really sure. My desktop monitor is LED though and I can definately see a difference in terms of colors, so I guess that it is LCD on my laptop Do LCD screens overclock better than LED ones?

[FakezZ]

Okay so I am back from school and did a the testufo test and guess what... It passed!!!! I will try pushing it to 144hz, but I am a little hesitant

[GoodBytes]

They are no laptops with LED displays.

Those are LED displays:

 

Yea, you don't want that

Common mistake, due to Apple aggressive marketing. All displays that we use today, are LCD. Hence why wen you press on it, you see liquid wave form. Do that on your LED light of your case, and you'll see that not only nothing happens, but its hard.

 

When Apple and stupid manufactures tries to follow the same marketing miss leading, by saying "LED display", they mean LED back light display. You see, LCD doesn't produce light, it filters it. It needs a light source on the back. You have 4 back light technologies:

 -> CFL. They are different grades of CFL's some are crap providing you a visible warm up time, and yellow tint on everything (as the white is not really a nice white), and then you have the high-grade ones that doesn't have a visible warm up time, and provide a nice true white.

 

 -> White LED. Very popular these days. The light output is very blu'ish white. True white LED don't exists in the consumer market. Some manufactures applies a layer or yellow phosphor on them to try and get better white, but usually, the blue is very well visible. It's the most inexpensive technology, as you don't needs a transformer, and a circuitry to control the illumination level, doesn't need a dimmer circuit, as it can use a PWM (pulse width modulation) which is costs much less.

 

 -> GB- LED. Green and Blue LED's put very close together and have a layer of high grade red phosphor on them to output a nice white.. You find these on high-end consumer grade monitor. Like high grade CFLs, they also are wide gamut.

 

 -> RGB-LED, Red, Green, and Blue LED's put very close together to out a true white light. Available only on select professional grade monitors, due to the sheer cost. Also these displays, can have the ability to control the intensity of each light color, so that not only the monitor has a bunch of options to adjust the colors, but also the back light, so that you can get the best white.

 

Laptop and tablets uses LED back lights as it allows a thinner design, and consume less power.

If you are interested in how an LCD panel works, check out this video:

 

 

 

Ok now for checking for motion blur and frame drop:

 -> Taking a screen shot only give you what the graphic card has drawn, not your display. You need to take multiple camera shot of your screen and see if your missing any frames, and motion blur. Of course, you'll need to set your camera to manual, and set the shutter speed as fast as possible. Else, you'll get wrong results (it will appear perfect on the camera).

 

Every display has some level of motion blur. So if the motion blur is non existent, you know that your test is a complete failure, ands needs to be retaken.

 

To test for frame skip, use this test:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433

 

And again, take a picture with your digital camera in the same fashion as above

I have frame skipping on my mine, I can see it, but I don't play any games on my laptop, and if it means reduce flickering due to the PWM, I am happy.... until I buy a new system.

[FakezZ]

They are no laptops with LED displays.

Those are LED displays:

 

Yea, you don't want that

Common mistake, due to Apple aggressive marketing. All displays that we use today, are LCD. Hence why wen you press on it, you see liquid wave form. Do that on your LED light of your case, and you'll see that not only nothing happens, but its hard.

 

When Apple and stupid manufactures tries to follow the same marketing miss leading, by saying "LED display", they mean LED back light display. You see, LCD doesn't produce light, it filters it. It needs a light source on the back. You have 4 back light technologies:

 -> CFL. They are different grades of CFL's some are crap providing you a visible warm up time, and yellow tint on everything (as the white is not really a nice white), and then you have the high-grade ones that doesn't have a visible warm up time, and provide a nice true white.

 

 -> White LED. Very popular these days. The light output is very blu'ish white. True white LED don't exists in the consumer market. Some manufactures applies a layer or yellow phosphor on them to try and get better white, but usually, the blue is very well visible. It's the most inexpensive technology, as you don't needs a transformer, and a circuitry to control the illumination level, doesn't need a dimmer circuit, as it can use a PWM (pulse width modulation) which is costs much less.

 

 -> GB- LED. Green and Blue LED's put very close together and have a layer of high grade red phosphor on them to output a nice white.. You find these on high-end consumer grade monitor. Like high grade CFLs, they also are wide gamut.

 

 -> RGB-LED, Red, Green, and Blue LED's put very close together to out a true white light. Available only on select professional grade monitors, due to the sheer cost. Also these displays, can have the ability to control the intensity of each light color, so that not only the monitor has a bunch of options to adjust the colors, but also the back light, so that you can get the best white.

 

Laptop and tablets uses LED back lights as it allows a thinner design, and consume less power.

If you are interested in how an LCD panel works, check out this video:

 

 

 

Ok now for checking for motion blur and frame drop:

 -> Taking a screen shot only give you what the graphic card has drawn, not your display. You need to take multiple camera shot of your screen and see if your missing any frames, and motion blur. Of course, you'll need to set your camera to manual, and set the shutter speed as fast as possible. Else, you'll get wrong results (it will appear perfect on the camera).

 

Every display has some level of motion blur. So if the motion blur is non existent, you know that your test is a complete failure, ands needs to be retaken.

 

To test for frame skip, use this test:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433

 

And again, take a picture with your digital camera in the same fashion as above

I have frame skipping on my mine, I can see it, but I don't play any games on my laptop, and if it means reduce flickering due to the PWM, I am happy.... until I buy a new system.

Yeah I know about the LED-LCD monitor misconception, but it is just a way to distinguish the two. Also, unfortunately I don't have a decent digital camera to do the test