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How to upgrade hp pro 6300 MT power supply or HP Elite 8200 sff (fix)

28 minutes ago, DwenVy said:

D’accord mais je n’est pas de câble jaune 

 

j’ai : rouge/vert/noir/blanc avec vert

 

 

 

comment je fait pour savoir qui est plus jaune ?

 

Les couleurs ne comptent pas, all that matters is the wires configuration. follow this diagram https://imgur.com/20grXCC and wire your adapter like that. Again don't pay attention to the colors, just simply look at your cables and check where they are going according to my diagram. 

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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2 hours ago, DwenVy said:

Mais comment on enlève les câbles du 24pin ?

 

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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8 hours ago, DwenVy said:

J'ai ausi une idée.

 

Si je changer de carte mère ? 

yes you could buy another motherboard but you gonna need to buy a new case too cause standard motherboards don't fit in HP cases. Also H61 boards have only 2 RAM slots meaning you can't upgrade to 16GB RAM unless you already have 2x8GB RAM.

You could also buy the right adapter. I could try to show you which adapter to buy exactly if I knew in which country you're located.

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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Je suis en France, mais j'ai trouver celle-ci : IPMMB-FM

 

J'ai regarder elle est compatible, je l'est acheter pour 20 $ j'ai aussi trouver un ancien boitier ATX 

 

Tout fonctionnera ?

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1 hour ago, DwenVy said:

Je suis en France, mais j'ai trouver celle-ci : IPMMB-FM

 

J'ai regarder elle est compatible, je l'est acheter pour 20 $ j'ai aussi trouver un ancien boitier ATX 

 

Tout fonctionnera ?

That board will fit your ATX board with no problem, but you gonna need to buy a new cooler because that small weird HP cooler will not fit in the case. Also, that motherboard has a Z75 chipset which happens to support overclocking but since it's from HP, you know those suckers might have locked the overclock option. Anyway, let me know how it goes.

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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5 hours ago, DwenVy said:

combien coûte un nouveau cooler pour ce type de carte mère ?

There is a gazillion of CPU coolers from $10 and up. https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/products/cpu-cooler/#sort=price&xcx=0

if you're not sure which one to get, buy a used Intel stock cooler on eBay for around 5 to $10. All Intel stock coolers are the same (LGA 1156,1155,1150,1151). Also, don't forget to buy some thermal paste if you don't already have some laying around.

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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7 hours ago, DwenVy said:

Vous en avez un avec la livraison prime pour 10$ ???

buy this one  https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Ventilateur-Ventirad-Intel-E97378-001-pour-socket-1150-1155-1156-NEUF/183724026996?hash=item2ac6ce2c74:g:GQ8AAOSwufFchV30

or this one https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Ventilateur-Radiateur-Intel-dorigine-neuf-socket-1150-1151-1155-CPU-i3-i5-i7/273711950214?hash=item3fba80e986:g:v2UAAOSwcUBYJdl~

and since those are new, you won't need thermal paste cause intel stock coolers come with thermal paste pre-applied.

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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J'ai acheter celui-ci, https://www.amazon.fr/Xilence-XC032-I250PWM-Refroidisseur-PC/dp/B01L6QMLE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1552854401&sr=8-1&keywords=xilence+i250+pwm

 

 

Mais merci beaucoup, je reçois la carte mère et le cooler Mercredi je vous tien au courant.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

@FPS god

WELL DONE - just finished putting together this turd for fun and this "post" took my red led no post, to reinstalling windows on this Frankenstein for fun.  Thank you!  HP Pro 6300 all I had to do was follow your Paint diagram...simple, straight forward and to the point!

 

 

lastfinal4.jpg

Current in process build: Project Odyssey - Build Logs - Linus Tech Tips

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Ryzen Rig 3: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler in push/pull, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  Lenovo 27" 1080p 60hz placeholder monitor, generic mouse, generic keyboard.  Still a work in progress

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Ryzen Rig 2: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker (or 4x8gb DDR4 2666mhz for large tasks), Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case.  Zalman K600S keyboard, Zalman ZM-GM1 mouse, Viotek GN24C 24" 1080p 144hz curved and Hannspree HF207 as 2nd monitor

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Ryzen Rig 1: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire R9 Fury Tri-X Nitro 4gb HBM, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case.  Zalman K600S keyboard, Zalman ZM-GM1 mouse, Acer XF270HU 2560x1440 144hz IPS monitor

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok I read all 4 page of the thread.  I want to get rid of that annoying F1 boot up, but my I fear that the wiring on my adapter might be different then yours and also the color is different. So I don't know what wired I need to attach to the fan. Please help.

 

 

IMG_1.jpg

IMG_2.jpg

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20 minutes ago, Mr.Yuck said:

Ok I read all 4 page of the thread.  I want to get rid of that annoying F1 boot up, but my I fear that the wiring on my adapter might be different then yours and also the color is different. So I don't know what wired I need to attach to the fan. Please help.

Ok here's what I suggest. remove all those 4 cables from that P2 connector and put them back in like this https://imgur.com/bUhMvAW, then let me know if the PC still works like before. 

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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12 hours ago, FPS god said:

Ok here's what I suggest. remove all those 4 cables from that P2 connector and put them back in like this https://imgur.com/bUhMvAW, then let me know if the PC still works like before. 

I did what you suggested and the PC still works like before.

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8 hours ago, Mr.Yuck said:

I did what you suggested and the PC still works like before

OK, fantastic. Now that your adapter is exactly wired like mine, go to my post on the first page and see where I talk about cutting the black cable on my adapter and attaching it to the green TAC cable of the CPU cooler. In your case, that black cable I'm talking about is yellow. simply cut your yellow cable from here https://imgur.com/qlHYwlJ and attach it to the CPU cooler.

 

i7-8700K l MSI RX 580 8GB ARMOR MK2 MSI - Z370 KRAIT GAMING l G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR4-3200 l Inland 120GB SSD + 1TB HDD Scythe FUMA Rev. B l EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze Certified l Asus VG248QE 144Hz l Zowie FK2 Audio-Technica ATH-AD500X l Phanteks P300 Tempered Glass l Corsair Gaming K70 RAPIDFIRE l windows 10.

 

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On 9/6/2018 at 12:38 PM, Tristerin said:

 

 

1.) The PSU connects to the mobo and out of the mobo are the SATA power rails correct?  I think that's how its set up, I haven't cracked the case in over 6 months.

Can you still use those rails coming off the mobo or would it be best (safest) to just utilize the connections from my ATX PSU I will be installing (I have a 650w laying around in my parts pile)

 

I just upgraded my HP 800G1 tower (i7-4770) using a harness from moddiy, and I can confirm that on this model you can use the original SATA harness/rails off the mobo to power your drive - The mobo is getting the same power as before, so the 6-pin SATA connector is still live, though it generally isn't needed since your aftermarket PSU should have the connectors you need.

 

Except in some  cases.

---------------------------------------------------------------------

HP uses a 6-pin slimline SATA power cable for their DVD drive, the EVGA 500BR doesn't have this connector, so if you have this same problem you can do what I did and re-install that rail harness  to specifically power the DVD drive.

 

And out of curiosity , I just tried using it to power my other drives and it worked. 

If you don't want to use the original harness at all and you have a slimline SATA powering your drive, you can find "slimline SATA 6 pin to standard SATA 15 pin adapters" online, but they're like $10, and I'm a cheap bastard.... You could also cut the original slimline SATA connector (2-wire) and make your own adapter if you have a male SATA/4-pin molex terminal lying around - It uses the red/black wires only.

 

 

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Just upgraded my HP 800G1 (Haswell) to an aftermarket PSU.

Everything works great, but I'm having issues getting rid of the "515" fan error code at the start.

 

I tried jumping the "TAC" wire off the P2 connector, which originally was white, to the "TACH" wire on the CHFAN2 (rear fan) connector, which is grey.

And I get 2 codes instead  - The "515" PSU fan error, and also a "512" Chassis fan error. If I try and jump of the CPU's 4-pin fan connector, I have the same issue (2 error code, 515 and I think it was 511)

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Thanks for any help.

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