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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

1 hour ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Okay that's something JB Weld can definitely fix.

Pretty sure he believes this to be true. It's a super rare Jeep Wrangler Renegade.

IMG_20210910_163051.jpg

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9 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Pretty sure he believes this to be true. It's a super rare Jeep Wrangler Renegade.

IMG_20210910_163051.jpg

GLORIOUS I LOVE IT

.

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Good luck with that one.

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Ha, yeah. Engine runs, trans works in at least 1st gear. Tank is full of what used to be fuel 10yrs ago.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Ha, yeah. Engine runs, trans works in at least 1st gear. Tank is full of what used to be fuel 10yrs ago.

can it be fixed? I mean if it's just the end of the frame that's like that then new metal can fix it I would think. 

But i bet the rest of the frame is pretty bad too.

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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3 hours ago, Bitter said:

Pretty sure he believes this to be true. It's a super rare Jeep Wrangler Renegade.

IMG_20210910_163051.jpg

Weird question. What bolt pattern are those wheels? I have a set kicking around and don't know specs or anything on em

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2 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

Weird question. What bolt pattern are those wheels? I have a set kicking around and don't know specs or anything on em

i have a set of 4x100 steelies with trashed tires I don't know what to do with, I don't want them lol. Wonder where I can get rid of them at

 

edit: i should of threw them all in the civic when I donated it...

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"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Bought to ruin this guy's day....

 

 

Every time I see these pictures, I am thankful I live somewhere that doesn't salt the roads.

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3 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

i have a set of 4x100 steelies with trashed tires I don't know what to do with, I don't want them lol. Wonder where I can get rid of them at

 

edit: i should of threw them all in the civic when I donated it...

Throw em on marketplace or something similar for free

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10 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

can it be fixed? I mean if it's just the end of the frame that's like that then new metal can fix it I would think. 

But i bet the rest of the frame is pretty bad too.

Tube frames ezpz

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12 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

can it be fixed? I mean if it's just the end of the frame that's like that then new metal can fix it I would think. 

But i bet the rest of the frame is pretty bad too.

Well his mechanic friend seems to think around $6,000 but I bet it'll be closer to $10-12,000 when it's all done. He was talking about taking the body off the frame but I don't think...

1. the body bolts will come out without unboxing them from the floor to heat them and even then...

2. I don't think the body has enough rigidity on it's own anymore to be removed from the frame without welding up bracing inside which...

3. requires gutting the interior for welding and...

4. starts to ruin the paint which is the only thing still good on this Jeep.

5. The rest of the frame, while not perforated is for sure rusted out inside, there's thick thick rust scale in the rest of the frame. If I took the the time to go along and hit the whole frame with the air hammer to break it free and then wash it out with a water hose I'd probably take another 15+lbs off the car in frame rot. I already swept up at least that much in rust just from getting the tank down and ancillary vibrations from that.

6. U joints are locked up, one may be OK

7. All the brakes are pretty fucked, brake lines and rubber hoses I do not trust.

8. All the rubber parts are bad, even the rubber in the harmonic dampener is bad. Engine probably needs a fresh set of rubber seals as does the trans at this point.

9. We only know the trans works in 1st gear.

10. Even the radiator is rotting, the inside is clogged up with white crust and the copper fins are all just falling off, the top inch has no fins between the tubes. First time the fan spins hard on acceleration it's going to suck all the fins out LOL!

11. HE'S NEVER EVEN DRIVEN THE FUCKING THING!

12 hours ago, RevoltTrain said:

Weird question. What bolt pattern are those wheels? I have a set kicking around and don't know specs or anything on em

Probably 5x144.3? Likely cast on the inside of the wheel somewhere.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Well his mechanic friend seems to think around $6,000 but I bet it'll be closer to $10-12,000 when it's all done. He was talking about taking the body off the frame but I don't think...

1. the body bolts will come out without unboxing them from the floor to heat them and even then...

2. I don't think the body has enough rigidity on it's own anymore to be removed from the frame without welding up bracing inside which...

3. requires gutting the interior for welding and...

4. starts to ruin the paint which is the only thing still good on this Jeep.

5. The rest of the frame, while not perforated is for sure rusted out inside, there's thick thick rust scale in the rest of the frame. If I took the the time to go along and hit the whole frame with the air hammer to break it free and then wash it out with a water hose I'd probably take another 15+lbs off the car in frame rot. I already swept up at least that much in rust just from getting the tank down and ancillary vibrations from that.

6. U joints are locked up, one may be OK

7. All the brakes are pretty fucked, brake lines and rubber hoses I do not trust.

8. All the rubber parts are bad, even the rubber in the harmonic dampener is bad. Engine probably needs a fresh set of rubber seals as does the trans at this point.

9. We only know the trans works in 1st gear.

10. Even the radiator is rotting, the inside is clogged up with white crust and the copper fins are all just falling off, the top inch has no fins between the tubes. First time the fan spins hard on acceleration it's going to suck all the fins out LOL!

11. HE'S NEVER EVEN DRIVEN THE FUCKING THING!

Probably 5x144.3? Likely cast on the inside of the wheel somewhere.

yep, sounds like a mess and he prob shouldn't of bought it. except maybe if using it as a lawn/business ornament

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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He thinks he's going to make money plowing with it.... you know plowing the activity that destroys vehicles through rust and wear... he thinks he's going to make money doing that with a vehicle he's going to sink $10,000 into to restore only to destroy by using it for plowing. GO BUY A CRAPPY USED F250 DOWN SOUTH AND PUT A PLOW ON THAT. Or a V10/Diesel Expedition or Excursion. They're heavy and have 4WD, make great plow trucks AND you get a bigass SUV you can use the rest of the year too.

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10 hours ago, Bitter said:

Well his mechanic friend seems to think around $6,000 but I bet it'll be closer to $10-12,000 when it's all done. He was talking about taking the body off the frame but I don't think...

1. the body bolts will come out without unboxing them from the floor to heat them and even then...

2. I don't think the body has enough rigidity on it's own anymore to be removed from the frame without welding up bracing inside which...

3. requires gutting the interior for welding and...

4. starts to ruin the paint which is the only thing still good on this Jeep.

5. The rest of the frame, while not perforated is for sure rusted out inside, there's thick thick rust scale in the rest of the frame. If I took the the time to go along and hit the whole frame with the air hammer to break it free and then wash it out with a water hose I'd probably take another 15+lbs off the car in frame rot. I already swept up at least that much in rust just from getting the tank down and ancillary vibrations from that.

6. U joints are locked up, one may be OK

7. All the brakes are pretty fucked, brake lines and rubber hoses I do not trust.

8. All the rubber parts are bad, even the rubber in the harmonic dampener is bad. Engine probably needs a fresh set of rubber seals as does the trans at this point.

9. We only know the trans works in 1st gear.

10. Even the radiator is rotting, the inside is clogged up with white crust and the copper fins are all just falling off, the top inch has no fins between the tubes. First time the fan spins hard on acceleration it's going to suck all the fins out LOL!

11. HE'S NEVER EVEN DRIVEN THE FUCKING THING!

Probably 5x144.3? Likely cast on the inside of the wheel somewhere.

Well, if it would be of any help I've got the shop manual for that.

1226562095_Shopmanual.jpg.d2dbe90852d7895e7b8b61caaba3451a.jpg

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Welp, finally got off my ass and did the theory exam for a license, alongside all the other associated shit u have to do in Sweden. Now its just the driving left, which is booked on Saturday. 😄

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Plenty of tread.

~snip~

ehh fine for another 100k miles 

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2 hours ago, Bitter said:

Plenty of tread.

IMG_20210910_130735.jpg

Wack some black silicone in them cracks and send it

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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5 hours ago, Bitter said:

Plenty of tread.

-snip-

I feel less bad about this than cracks in the sidewall But yeah it’s time lol 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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19 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I feel less bad about this than cracks in the sidewall But yeah it’s time lol 


Certainly is.
Blowouts are NO FUN and that's why when I got my old pickup from the bodyshop (Bodywork and paint done), I also had the front tires changed even though they still had alot of tread on them.
The truck was never driven much and had even sat for a time, between all that and the sheer age of them the tires had cracked like in the pics and it just wasn't smart to keep tooling around on tires that could let go at anytime and beat hell out of the bodywork, if they didn't wreck me too when they'd go out.

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2 hours ago, Beerzerker said:


Certainly is.
Blowouts are NO FUN and that's why when I got my old pickup from the bodyshop (Bodywork and paint done), I also had the front tires changed even though they still had alot of tread on them.
The truck was never driven much and had even sat for a time, between all that and the sheer age of them the tires had cracked like in the pics and it just wasn't smart to keep tooling around on tires that could let go at anytime and beat hell out of the bodywork, if they didn't wreck me too when they'd go out.

I mean, blowouts can happen with literally any tyres

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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Well that was fun, one of my fuel injectors decided it was done with life this morning. At least they’re easy to get to, just two bolts holding the fuel rail and nothing else in the way.
Are injectors one of those things that when one fails the rest are likely going to also fail in the near-ish future? Or is that treated like more of a one-off and only replace the failed one? Car has 150k miles on it and as far as I know the injectors have never been replaced.

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2 hours ago, The_russian said:

Well that was fun, one of my fuel injectors decided it was done with life this morning. At least they’re easy to get to, just two bolts holding the fuel rail and nothing else in the way.
Are injectors one of those things that when one fails the rest are likely going to also fail in the near-ish future? Or is that treated like more of a one-off and only replace the failed one? Car has 150k miles on it and as far as I know the injectors have never been replaced.

Its usually good practice to replace the lot. The other injectors will try to keep up with the fueling capability of the new one and have a higher chance of failure

Needs money for car parts :P

 

System specs: Core i7 9700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 , MSI Z390 PRO, 16GB CORSAIR VENGENCE DDR4 3000, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, Corsair AX860, Seagate 1TB, Sandisk 240GB SSD, Corsair 400c

 

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Got the car tuned today to "Stage 2"

Absolutely over the moon with it, made 456.8hp and 607Nm

FB_IMG_1631707650159.jpg

Screenshot_20210915-143327_Instagram.jpg

Needs money for car parts :P

 

System specs: Core i7 9700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 , MSI Z390 PRO, 16GB CORSAIR VENGENCE DDR4 3000, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, Corsair AX860, Seagate 1TB, Sandisk 240GB SSD, Corsair 400c

 

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11 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Its usually good practice to replace the lot. The other injectors will try to keep up with the fueling capability of the new one and have a higher chance of failure

I wouldn’t say it’s a matter of Injectors competing with each other; but more that just replacing one might make the engine run funny since one cylinder may have better combustion than all the others. It’s just best if they are all evenly matched and spray very close to the same amount of fuel with each squirt 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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