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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

P_20201108_171510.thumb.jpg.413c1b89684d8c7a02f68c46ac34995e.jpg

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

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So i figured out how all of the CB450 was wired a few days ago, its barely got any wires in it so it wasnt all that hard.

 

Found a few odd things:

The generators negative isn't connected to anything, i have no idea how this isnt some sort of problem tbh

The headlight is controlled by the indicator switch??? just why???

 

Got my new indicators, signal generator, speedo cable and grips yesterday but yesterday i also passed out and have a concussion so any work on the CB is probably not until after i get back home from Christmas. Still need something to quiet the bike down, either some DB killer insert or a slip-on, exhaust is a strange 39mm ID so DB-killers are hard to find. Slip-ons are expensive too so idk what ill end up doing right now but i have a pretty solid guess that it wont be passing any inspections with these straight pipes lmao

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10 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

P_20201108_171510.thumb.jpg.413c1b89684d8c7a02f68c46ac34995e.jpg

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

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2 hours ago, Bitter said:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

Thanks for the airbox tip. I already joined the forums there, and they've been helpful. More than I can say for the Prius forums and RX-7 forums....

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Forgot to post this here.  Had my Focus RS at the dragstrip recently.  Sadly the video I do have doesn't have ET because the GT350 had "no clocks" on the back window.

 

But it ran a 13.4 @ 105mph.

 

Car is bone stock, full weight, 3675lbs with me in it at the line.

 

This is right about where it should run in stock trim so I'm happy enough with the result.

 

 

 

Home PC: 2013 Mac Pro connected to a LG 34" Ultra-wide 3440x1440.  Email, Youtube, light Adobe CC work, and Ripping Things.

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20 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

P_20201108_171510.thumb.jpg.413c1b89684d8c7a02f68c46ac34995e.jpg

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

Is that a 98/99 with the 1ZZ? 
 

With a manual and good tires it’ll be a good autocross car. I autoX’d my 2002 corolla (with an auto, I had to leave it in 1st and manually slide the shifter up to second and back down it was a mess but it was fun lol) 

 

I was mid pack at the local group after putting new struts (nothing special just stock replacements) and sport comp 2 tires (I got 15 inch steel wheels to do this, stock width) 

 

I had way more fun in that car than I thought I ever would. Kinda sad I don’t have it anymore still lol. I revved the crap out of the engine every single day for 2 years. I had to keep an eye on the oil (the early 1ZZ’s Commonly burn due to too small piston oil return holes and owners who would neglect oil changes). But that was it! 
 

An LSD would also go a long way in that car. But that might be a bit much. If you ever have the transmission out to disassemble it, it’s worth doing.
 

Then someone crashed into me one day and I bought a Miata. Still have that one. Lol

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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21 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Is that a 98/99 with the 1ZZ? 
 

With a manual and good tires it’ll be a good autocross car. I autoX’d my 2002 corolla (with an auto, I had to leave it in 1st and manually slide the shifter up to second and back down it was a mess but it was fun lol) 

 

I was mid pack at the local group after putting new struts (nothing special just stock replacements) and sport comp 2 tires (I got 15 inch steel wheels to do this, stock width) 

 

I had way more fun in that car than I thought I ever would. Kinda sad I don’t have it anymore still lol. I revved the crap out of the engine every single day for 2 years. I had to keep an eye on the oil (the early 1ZZ’s Commonly burn due to too small piston oil return holes and owners who would neglect oil changes). But that was it! 
 

An LSD would also go a long way in that car. But that might be a bit much. If you ever have the transmission out to disassemble it, it’s worth doing.
 

Then someone crashed into me one day and I bought a Miata. Still have that one. Lol

Big F for your 02.

 

This is a 95, as I mentioned in my post :)

DX trim, so it does have the 1.8L 7A-FE. The 4 speed auto was an option higher on the DX trim, the 5 speed manual was standard equipment for DX models. I expect it'll be solid enough in autox stock, but my plans should get some more performance out of it. 7As are oil burning queens, if its not burning oil its not running :) Supposedly its an issue with the rings getting sludged by faulty rings and/or long oil change intervals.

 

There's a high chance I'll be getting a mostly complete, or possibly running, single rotor engine sometime next year. It'd only make about as much power as the 7A does, but the powerband would be way better. I was planning on reusing the stock transmission with some type of bellhousing adapter, and was considering rebuilding it since it'll have around 200k by the time I can do the swap. 

 

My biggest concern is tires though, for sure. There's a pick&pull near here that has a 93 with some really cool looking alloy wheels, however I'm pretty sure they're OEM so tire choice will be extremely limited. The upside is they'd be cheap and look nice. Could probably try to offset a worse tread with a wider tire, depending on how wide a tire I could fit.

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*Trash Can* - AMD A4-6300

*GPU Test Bench*

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I had 92 Prizm GSi wheels with 195/60R14 tires, it was ok. Go for 15" and you can fit bigger front brakes from I think maybe it was a 5th or 6th gen Celica? Been a while....

 

Also 7AGE is very rarely built, usually cheaper to turbo the 7A or cram in a 3S or 4AGE.

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14 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Big F for your 02.

 

This is a 95, as I mentioned in my post :)

DX trim, so it does have the 1.8L 7A-FE. The 4 speed auto was an option higher on the DX trim, the 5 speed manual was standard equipment for DX models. I expect it'll be solid enough in autox stock, but my plans should get some more performance out of it. 7As are oil burning queens, if its not burning oil its not running :) Supposedly its an issue with the rings getting sludged by faulty rings and/or long oil change intervals.

 

There's a high chance I'll be getting a mostly complete, or possibly running, single rotor engine sometime next year. It'd only make about as much power as the 7A does, but the powerband would be way better. I was planning on reusing the stock transmission with some type of bellhousing adapter, and was considering rebuilding it since it'll have around 200k by the time I can do the swap. 

 

My biggest concern is tires though, for sure. There's a pick&pull near here that has a 93 with some really cool looking alloy wheels, however I'm pretty sure they're OEM so tire choice will be extremely limited. The upside is they'd be cheap and look nice. Could probably try to offset a worse tread with a wider tire, depending on how wide a tire I could fit.

I’m sorry I totally missed that you said the year when I read your post yesterday... 

 

rotary swap? That sounds like a crazy project lol. Good luck! 

 

In my experience regarding tires, the tire itself is more important than the width. 15 inch wheels generally have the best variety of sticky tire selection since that’s what people are using on Miatas and stuff, so I’d try to find something there. 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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Not done yet just did the rears:6985F611-6F8C-4B02-8DAE-EF354F6A234D.thumb.jpeg.4305c326e94c7d6ab4f61bef7844c466.jpeg

 

prothane bushings + sadfab sleeve bearing kit instead of the stock sleeves (so the center sleeve rotates inside of a metal bearing instead of directly against the polyurethane) + drilled and tapped for grease zerks for easy greasing. 
 

Every poly bushing company should do this I think it’s an amazing idea lol:

image.thumb.jpg.a91ee80ffb3f266fec8aab65da3210c1.jpg

 

koni yellows and flyin Miata springs. New shock bushings but reused the spring isolators and boots.

 

Excuse the 10+ years of dirt. Gonna clean everything when I’m done. 
 

ride is actually pretty close to stock, just everything feels tighter in the back. It’s nice, feels new. 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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Wth is going on with BMW these days?

 

😱

 

 

TuringMachine

Ryzen 5 3600x - Asus Strix B450-F - Asus ROG RTX 2060S Strix AD - HyperX Predator 3200 2x8 GB DDR4 - Phanteks P400S - Corsair RM 650x - BeQuiet! Dark Rock 4 - Kingston A2000 NVMe 1TB SSD - 2x Samsung QVO 1TB SSD (RAID 0) - Seagate Barracuda 3TB

 

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Anyone know grease fittings really well? I’m in need of some low profile ones for a tight clearance spot on the Miata.

 

i think these will work:

2D996EC4-171F-411F-BA3E-4549A465E1FA.thumb.jpeg.31a3ebb56fe04f7be3c34c0a90c33ca7.jpeg

 

but I don’t know what adapter you use on your grease gun for these? Do you just stick a needle-type in the middle?.. that doesn’t seem right (edit: maybe it is, it pushes in the ball valve and allows the grease to flow in)

 

also the hole is recessed so I might have to find something else. Really don’t want go cut the subframe if I can avoid it. (also the above might not work since the clearance for the socket + the fitting itself through that hole might not be big enough :(

3916B979-FB74-43DC-83B4-FB8A793D28F9.thumb.jpeg.54140d3535fc0d12b87b4711e309307b.jpeg

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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They do work buy you need the adapter for your grease gun to use them, might still not be low enough since that fitting has a long shank on it. How much more rotation do you need there? Is notching not an option?

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24 minutes ago, Bitter said:

They do work buy you need the adapter for your grease gun to use them, might still not be low enough since that fitting has a long shank on it. How much more rotation do you need there? Is notching not an option?

I don’t need a lot tbh. That’s how it is with the suspension at full droop and it wasn’t putting much pressure on it 

 

other idea was a 90 degree fitting, Assuming my threads are good enough(lol) to screw it in by hand, if it goes in deep enough that it clears...

 

I’m reluctant to notch it because there’s already a hole in the middle of that bracket and I feel like I’d be  compromising it too much? 
 

it’s for the rear upper control arm where they mount to the subframe 

 

oddly enough the front one clears fine (you can kinda see it behind that one in the pic). Just the rear ones don’t :( 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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Hey yall! New to the thread.

 

Got this one back in September!

 

2015 Ford Focus ST3

2.0L Ecoboost I4 252bhp

62,000KM on the odometer at time of purchase

6 speed manual transaxle

Recaro performance leather seats

SYNC My Ford Touch with Sony 10 speaker/subwoofer

Yellow tinted fog lights

Turbosmart Dual-port wastgate

 

Wanted this car for many years now, and I finally got one!

 

119449523_1989808777821223_976922127712395690_o.jpg

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X GPU: Reference 5700XT (Asus) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X470-F RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200C16 PSU: Corsair RM850X White

Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB Storage: 500GB WD SN750 M.2, 500GB Samsung 860 Evo SSD, 1TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD Case: NZXT H500i White

Keyboard: Asus ROG Strix Flare (MX Red) Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB Monitor: HP Omen 25 144hz 

 

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33 minutes ago, CPT_BEEMO said:

Hey yall! New to the thread.

 

Got this one back in September!

 

2015 Ford Focus ST3

2.0L Ecoboost I4 252bhp

62,000KM on the odometer at time of purchase

6 speed manual transaxle

Recaro performance leather seats

SYNC My Ford Touch with Sony 10 speaker/subwoofer

Yellow tinted fog lights

Turbosmart Dual-port wastgate

 

Wanted this car for many years now, and I finally got one!

 

 

These have to be the most common car in this thread surely 😂

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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18 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I don’t need a lot tbh. That’s how it is with the suspension at full droop and it wasn’t putting much pressure on it 

 

other idea was a 90 degree fitting, Assuming my threads are good enough(lol) to screw it in by hand, if it goes in deep enough that it clears...

 

I’m reluctant to notch it because there’s already a hole in the middle of that bracket and I feel like I’d be  compromising it too much? 
 

it’s for the rear upper control arm where they mount to the subframe 

 

oddly enough the front one clears fine (you can kinda see it behind that one in the pic). Just the rear ones don’t :( 

A 90 fitting will be almost as tall or just as tall as what's there now. The flat is your best bet if it's long enough to reach where it needs to get to. A small notch shouldn't cause harm though, a 90 fitting and maybe dimple the metal away with a solid ball peen whack.

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33 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

These have to be the most common car in this thread surely 😂

Well, that surely makes me feel welcome.

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3 minutes ago, CPT_BEEMO said:

Well, that surely makes me feel welcome.

Dont mean it in a bad way lol

I think theres 4 others in here? And I used to have one myself

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 minute ago, iDeFecZx said:

Dont mean it in a bad way lol

I think theres 4 others in here? And I used to have one myself

😂 I know dude! At least if I have an issue with the car someone here can help

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Based on what I've seen thus far, I'm the only rotary owner here. 😂

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5 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

These have to be the most common car in this thread surely 😂

There’s quite a few Miatas too. Just not a lot of them are regulars lol

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5 hours ago, Bitter said:

A 90 fitting will be almost as tall or just as tall as what's there now. The flat is your best bet if it's long enough to reach where it needs to get to. A small notch shouldn't cause harm though, a 90 fitting and maybe dimple the metal away with a solid ball peen whack.

Might just have to do that. Thanks 

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