Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

On 9/16/2019 at 5:02 PM, chaozbandit said:

@warmmilk

 

 

I love Kels!

 

On 9/18/2019 at 10:10 AM, MEC-777 said:

This is going to be an awesome racing series. Can't wait. And just listen to that glorious V8 music! :D

 

@chaozbandit @warmmilk

I never expected to see a Coyote V8 in an open wheel race car... this thing is awesome!

Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H | 4770k 4.6GHz | Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Kaloob said:

I Have not noticed rust issues on Toyotas. I see plenty of 2000's/late '90s Corollas and Camrys around here (which while we don't have the harshest winters, they still salt like there's no tommrow) and I have not noticed rust on them, though that's just from what I see passing them. I also see a Geo Prizm almost every day without noticeable rust, though that doesn't move much if at all.

The only Mitsubishis I see here are their newer CUVs, so can't say anything about that.

Rust can be a problem for ALL old cars. It's up to the owner to look after the car properly, many manufacturers sprayed rust protection agents on their vehicles but after so long it looses its effectiveness and does nothing to protect the car. The owner should ideally get the car sprayed regularly to prevent critical rust forming but of course they don't and therefore end up with rust buckets. At the end of the day many manufacturers did all they could to prevent rust, heck even dealers offered to do regular resprays as part of the guarantee but many people simply refused the service. I think many manufacturers are sometimes unfairly blamed for rust issues, yet you can always spot the good owners driving around in original un-restored 20 odd year old cars even cars that are well known to have bad rust problems. Heard of Rover? Cars under this marque were well known for bad rust issues yet I still see many R8 200's/R3 200's/25's, R6 Metro's/100's, R8 400's/HH-R 400's/45's & 75's on the road with only a few minimal scabby rust areas. Just shows you how far a bit of caring goes. 

Edited by LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo

زندگی از چراغ

Intel Core i7 7800X 6C/12T (4.5GHz), Corsair H150i Pro RGB (360mm), Asus Prime X299-A, Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4X4GB & 2X8GB 3000MHz DDR4), MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8G (2.113GHz core & 9.104GHz memory), 1 Samsung 960 Evo 250GB NVME M.2, 1 Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, 1 Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD, 1 WD Red 1TB mechanical drive, Corsair RM750X 80+ Gold fully modular PSU, Corsair Obsidian 750D full tower case, Corsair Glaive RGB mouse, Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 (Cherry MX Red) keyboard, Asus VN247HA (1920x1080 60Hz 16:9), Audio Technica ATH-M20x headphones & Windows 10 Home 64 bit. 

 

 

The time Linus replied to me on one of my threads: 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Kaloob said:

I Have not noticed rust issues on Toyotas. I see plenty of 2000's/late '90s Corollas and Camrys around here (which while we don't have the harshest winters, they still salt like there's no tommrow) and I have not noticed rust on them, though that's just from what I see passing them. I also see a Geo Prizm almost every day without noticeable rust, though that doesn't move much if at all.

The only Mitsubishis I see here are their newer CUVs, so can't say anything about that.

 

i7 8700k 5.0ghz  / 32GB gskill tridentz / ASUS Z370-A Prime / EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC / LG 34GL750 / Logitech G513 romerg tactile / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2019 Razer Blade Stealth / iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Kaloob said:

Forgot about the tacos, I'll edit my post to reflect that. 

Any body on frame toyota is rust prone. Their cars aren't bad though. 

i7 8700k 5.0ghz  / 32GB gskill tridentz / ASUS Z370-A Prime / EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC / LG 34GL750 / Logitech G513 romerg tactile / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2019 Razer Blade Stealth / iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, vetali said:

Any body on frame toyota is rust prone. Their cars aren't bad though. 

not mine!

I drive a Honda, but i'm a Toyota boy at heart.

I use Apple products, and I like it.

Spoiler

CPU: Intel i7-2820QM GPU: Intel HD3000/Radeon HD6750M RAM: 12GB(4GB Crucial, 8GB PNY) MOBO: Apple A1286 PSU: Apple MagSafe MONITOR: 1680x1050 CHASSIS: MacBook Pro 15 (Early 2011) A1286

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, warmmilk said:

I love Kels!

 

I never expected to see a Coyote V8 in an open wheel race car... this thing is awesome!

 

Apparently he ripped it at Mosport midweek and noone was around to know about it. >:

 

 

Faster than a GT3 Cup Platinum driver with no assists in the porker.

Active Threads: Box Box Box - Project CARS & Assetto Corsa Players Club  | The Garage - Car Enthusiast Club

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X+ Corsair H110i GT GPU: EVGA GTX1080 SC MB: ASRock x470 Taichi RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-2666 32GB 

CASE: Fractal Design Define 7 Panda STORAGE: Samsung 850 Evo 250GB + Intel 545s 512GB

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, FuzzyYellow said:

not mine!

*2nd frame

i7 8700k 5.0ghz  / 32GB gskill tridentz / ASUS Z370-A Prime / EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC / LG 34GL750 / Logitech G513 romerg tactile / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2019 Razer Blade Stealth / iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB

Link to post
Share on other sites

how hard do you all think it'd be to repair this rust and staining? jn6top.png

a Moo Floof connoisseur and curator.

:x@handymanshandle x @pinksnowbirdie || Jake x Brendan :x
Youtube Audio Normalization
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

honestly not sure what I should do

 

I can borrow up to $5,000 pending income verification, however I wanna keep my costs below around $300 between insurance and loan.


The reason I'm taking out a loan for a car is that I want to be able to maybe have more incentive to start driving if I'm financially responsible for it.

 

a Moo Floof connoisseur and curator.

:x@handymanshandle x @pinksnowbirdie || Jake x Brendan :x
Youtube Audio Normalization
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

how hard do you all think it'd be to repair this rust and staining? jn6top.png

It's probably pretty fucked behind the plastic running  board skirt things on both sides. I doubt you'd be able to lift it to change a flat tire without the body collapsing and crushing from all the rust. Slide under it and start tapping the body with a small hammer, it should go clank, maybe thud, but shouldn't punch holes or knock off huge chunks of car. But from the photo it's probably already fucked.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

It's probably pretty fucked behind the plastic running  board skirt things on both sides. I doubt you'd be able to lift it to change a flat tire without the body collapsing and crushing from all the rust. Slide under it and start tapping the body with a small hammer, it should go clank, maybe thud, but shouldn't punch holes or knock off huge chunks of car. But from the photo it's probably already fucked.

interesting good to know

a Moo Floof connoisseur and curator.

:x@handymanshandle x @pinksnowbirdie || Jake x Brendan :x
Youtube Audio Normalization
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

how hard do you all think it'd be to repair this rust and staining? jn6top.png

that is gonna be expensive .... or not ... only can tell if you start taking the car apart to check the damage 

seems like you need to look for some less rust prone car models ... or just settle for a rusty car ... or get a rust free one from a climate where you can find a rust free one in your budget

Mobo - Asus Maximus VI Formula Ram - Kingston HyperX Fury 1866mhz CL10 16GBCPU - Intel i7 4790K ;

GPU - Gainward RTX 2070 Phantom ; PSU - Corsair RM750x Cooler - CM Hyper 212 EVO

Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s alive! 

 

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know its a longshot but, anyone here has tuning experience with Kess v2 clones? or tuning an NA engine with turbo slapped to its side using a stock ecu? I cant get original Kess V2 and nobody here has enough experience (also has a genuine kess v2) with tuning to let them tune it for me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, PandaCopyRight said:

or get a rust free one from a climate where you can find a rust free one in your budget

well that's not gonna happen because I don't have money for that.

1 hour ago, PandaCopyRight said:

that is gonna be expensive .... or not ... only can tell if you start taking the car apart to check the damage 

seems like you need to look for some less rust prone car models ... or just settle for a rusty car ...

meh

a Moo Floof connoisseur and curator.

:x@handymanshandle x @pinksnowbirdie || Jake x Brendan :x
Youtube Audio Normalization
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I see this really often at work because some of our customers are low income and they get trapped. They can't afford a decent car so they get a really cheap one that they're constantly pouring money into fix, can't ever get caught up fixing it, and in the end when they finally give up or it breaks beyond their ability to afford they've dumped in more money than if they'd just bought something decent to begin with. I've seen people spend, over 2-3 years, $5,000 on a $1000 car when they could have just spend $6000 up front and gotten a car that wouldn't have milked $5k out of them like that. $1000 car has shit tires, spend $400 on tires now it's a $1400 car. Needs a radiator, now it's a $1700 car. Brake lines rusted out and burst, now it's a $2200 car. Caliper seized up, now it's a $2500 car. Trans took a shit, now it's a $4000 car. So on and so on until something un-repairable rusts through or they've sunk so much money into it that they can't afford to keep fixing it and throw away the car AND all the money they've spent on it as it's too broken to re-sell to anyone but a junk yard for $75.

 

 

You don't have to move to a warmer climate to get a clean car, take a car shopping vacation lol. I'm sure you've got friends or family who live down south? Go visit, pick out a good car, take it to a local shop to check it out, drive it home. Because used cars last longer down south there's more for sale and they're cheaper. Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas, Oklahoma, etc. All states without salt, with pretty much no winter, and where flooding isn't a huge thing to watch out for used cars since they have no salt water coasts. Even Southern IL and IN are fine, pretty much south of Indy and Springfield out in the country you can get a cheap used car that's solid.

 

Post up what you're considering, tag me, I'll give you my opinion about it and if I think they're asking a fair price.

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I guess I see this really often at work because some of our customers are low income and they get trapped. They can't afford a decent car so they get a really cheap one that they're constantly pouring money into fix, can't ever get caught up fixing it, and in the end when they finally give up or it breaks beyond their ability to afford they've dumped in more money than if they'd just bought something decent to begin with. I've seen people spend, over 2-3 years, $5,000 on a $1000 car when they could have just spend $6000 up front and gotten a car that wouldn't have milked $5k out of them like that. $1000 car has shit tires, spend $400 on tires now it's a $1400 car. Needs a radiator, now it's a $1700 car. Brake lines rusted out and burst, now it's a $2200 car. Caliper seized up, now it's a $2500 car. Trans took a shit, now it's a $4000 car. So on and so on until something un-repairable rusts through or they've sunk so much money into it that they can't afford to keep fixing it and throw away the car AND all the money they've spent on it as it's too broken to re-sell to anyone but a junk yard for $75.

 

 

You don't have to move to a warmer climate to get a clean car, take a car shopping vacation lol. I'm sure you've got friends or family who live down south? Go visit, pick out a good car, take it to a local shop to check it out, drive it home. Because used cars last longer down south there's more for sale and they're cheaper. Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas, Oklahoma, etc. All states without salt, with pretty much no winter, and where flooding isn't a huge thing to watch out for used cars since they have no salt water coasts. Even Southern IL and IN are fine, pretty much south of Indy and Springfield out in the country you can get a cheap used car that's solid.

 

Post up what you're considering, tag me, I'll give you my opinion about it and if I think they're asking a fair price.

you'd laugh at the civic I bought. Honestly was sort of a mistake I went a bit too cheap.

At least there's no rust and I can fix it myself lol

 

also car taxes are awful here if you're honest about them

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

You wouldn't believe some of the cars I see at the shop. Sometimes I post pictures of the nice ones not the clunkers and we get some clunkers. Some of them I can only service on the drive on rack because there's nothing solid enough under them to use as lift points for the 2 post lifts. Not even joking.

 

 

IMG_20190911_143242.jpg

IMG_20190911_143204.jpg

IMG_20190911_143153.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Bitter said:

You wouldn't believe some of the cars I see at the shop. Sometimes I post pictures of the nice ones not the clunkers and we get some clunkers. Some of them I can only service on the drive on rack because there's nothing solid enough under them to use as lift points for the 2 post lifts. Not even joking.

 

 

-snip-

 

Guessing inspection places just slap new stickers on cars there without actually inspecting them like they do here

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/648881028933045/?surface=product_details

this poor Roadmaster

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

Not all states have inspections. Il only cares about emissions, pretty sure MN is similar as well.

nope lol
MN doesn't do that bullshit, yet. Fucking hell glad I'll be out of this hell hole before they decide that's a good idea.

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

I guess I see this really often at work because some of our customers are low income and they get trapped. They can't afford a decent car so they get a really cheap one that they're constantly pouring money into fix, can't ever get caught up fixing it, and in the end when they finally give up or it breaks beyond their ability to afford they've dumped in more money than if they'd just bought something decent to begin with. I've seen people spend, over 2-3 years, $5,000 on a $1000 car when they could have just spend $6000 up front and gotten a car that wouldn't have milked $5k out of them like that. $1000 car has shit tires, spend $400 on tires now it's a $1400 car. Needs a radiator, now it's a $1700 car. Brake lines rusted out and burst, now it's a $2200 car. Caliper seized up, now it's a $2500 car. Trans took a shit, now it's a $4000 car. So on and so on until something un-repairable rusts through or they've sunk so much money into it that they can't afford to keep fixing it and throw away the car AND all the money they've spent on it as it's too broken to re-sell to anyone but a junk yard for $75.

 

 

You don't have to move to a warmer climate to get a clean car, take a car shopping vacation lol. I'm sure you've got friends or family who live down south? Go visit, pick out a good car, take it to a local shop to check it out, drive it home. Because used cars last longer down south there's more for sale and they're cheaper. Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas, Oklahoma, etc. All states without salt, with pretty much no winter, and where flooding isn't a huge thing to watch out for used cars since they have no salt water coasts. Even Southern IL and IN are fine, pretty much south of Indy and Springfield out in the country you can get a cheap used car that's solid.

 

Post up what you're considering, tag me, I'll give you my opinion about it and if I think they're asking a fair price.

really the only one down South is North Alabama because I'd wanna go be with is @Dan Castellaneta but uh if Im going down there I'm staying down there. Which is why I kinda want a car in the first place. Cheaper than flying and paying out the ass to move my shit.

 

I'll entertain your offer, https://www.cambridgetrucks.net/details/used-2002-mazda-tribute/54746823
 

for that small rust spot towards the back of the passenger side and the dent on the driver door I'd see if I could work them down a few hundred bucks maybe an even $3500

a Moo Floof connoisseur and curator.

:x@handymanshandle x @pinksnowbirdie || Jake x Brendan :x
Youtube Audio Normalization
 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hows the weather down there

 

 

lmao

 

@warmmilk @bcredeur97

Active Threads: Box Box Box - Project CARS & Assetto Corsa Players Club  | The Garage - Car Enthusiast Club

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X+ Corsair H110i GT GPU: EVGA GTX1080 SC MB: ASRock x470 Taichi RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-2666 32GB 

CASE: Fractal Design Define 7 Panda STORAGE: Samsung 850 Evo 250GB + Intel 545s 512GB

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/648881028933045/?surface=product_details

this poor Roadmaster

nope lol
MN doesn't do that bullshit, yet. Fucking hell glad I'll be out of this hell hole before they decide that's a good idea.

really the only one down South is North Alabama because I'd wanna go be with is @Dan Castellaneta but uh if Im going down there I'm staying down there. Which is why I kinda want a car in the first place. Cheaper than flying and paying out the ass to move my shit.

 

I'll entertain your offer, https://www.cambridgetrucks.net/details/used-2002-mazda-tribute/54746823
 

for that small rust spot towards the back of the passenger side and the dent on the driver door I'd see if I could work them down a few hundred bucks maybe an even $3500

For the price they're asking it looks pretty decent from the outside. Check the date code on the tires, if they're more than 6 years old use that to haggle down and make a stink about selling a car with unsafe tires, killing you in a roll over, media shitstorm, whatever. Those are common for ignition coils failing (like all ford's of that time period) and when they do fail the resulting misfire destroys the converter that's attached to the exhaust manifold on that side of the engine. You'll know if the converter is clogged, it'll feel slow as shit. That V6 in those is pretty perky actually! Get a cheap OBD2 code reader and an app that'll let you pull codes and check if the emissions monitors are completed, so you can tell if they just cleared the codes or not. They'll be all incomplete if they were just cleared which could be a tipoff they're hiding something. Make sure you look around under it real good, those can get some nasty rust around the strut towers front and rear which is pretty much a car ending failure because it'll cost about 1/4 of the vehicle price to repair that kind of damage. Under the car you're looking for holes in the floor, rust perforations along the pinch weld like where the tire change jack goes, big leaks or signs of big leaks cleaned up, etc. That engine does leak oil from the oil pan gaskets but it's meh live with it. The transmission on those is the weak link, they'll shit the bed and they're not cheap to repair because they usually break a bunch of hard parts inside them. They were crappy when new and paired with a 4 cylinder, they're not any better later on and paired with a V6 but that one might be one of the few that was alright...or not. You'll start getting some hard shifts and then it just won't go and that's it, toss $2500 into the pot you piss in and hit the flush lever, don't bother with a used one cause it'll probably be even worse.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@pagani123

 

I seens the huayra raodster bc!! Greg's car is here too.

 

 

Active Threads: Box Box Box - Project CARS & Assetto Corsa Players Club  | The Garage - Car Enthusiast Club

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X+ Corsair H110i GT GPU: EVGA GTX1080 SC MB: ASRock x470 Taichi RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-2666 32GB 

CASE: Fractal Design Define 7 Panda STORAGE: Samsung 850 Evo 250GB + Intel 545s 512GB

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×