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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Just LS things 😂

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2 hours ago, Bitter said:

ezgif-1-e8a3e8da43.gif.a5fcbadef18126471b3f14254a065623.gif

 

Looking like drop dod lifter carnage 😂

If the cam and lifter aren't screwed just replace the pushrod and send it

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17 minutes ago, Vonrottes said:

Looking like drop dod lifter carnage 😂

If the cam and lifter aren't screwed just replace the pushrod and send it

They have a "warranty" so we need to pull the head for RDI anyway, but probably. Lifter looks crooked down there and the lifter guide looks a little off as well. I'll know more next week, that mess of GDI stuff under the intake doesn't look fun to deal with, 190K I'll be shocked if the injectors come out without a fight.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

They have a "warranty" so we need to pull the head for RDI anyway, but probably. Lifter looks crooked down there and the lifter guide looks a little off as well. I'll know more next week, that mess of GDI stuff under the intake doesn't look fun to deal with, 190K I'll be shocked if the injectors come out without a fight.

Ooof from what I've seen the gen V high pressure systems don't like to come off in one piece after getting some miles put on'em.

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8 minutes ago, Vonrottes said:

Ooof from what I've seen the gen V high pressure systems don't like to come off in one piece after getting some miles put on'em.

Yep.

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5 hours ago, Bitter said:

They have a "warranty" so we need to pull the head for RDI anyway, but probably. Lifter looks crooked down there and the lifter guide looks a little off as well. I'll know more next week, that mess of GDI stuff under the intake doesn't look fun to deal with, 190K I'll be shocked if the injectors come out without a fight.

After the 3.6 injector job I did, I wont touch another GM GDI job. Burn whoever designed that crap at the stake. Easily one of the worst jobs I've done.

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

After the 3.6 injector job I did, I wont touch another GM GDI job. Burn whoever designed that crap at the stake. Easily one of the worst jobs I've done.

I'd honestly rather do just about anything else, but it'll be a good learning experience. I'm sure I've done worse jobs than this. 😶

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8 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I'd honestly rather do just about anything else, but it'll be a good learning experience. I'm sure I've done worse jobs than this. 😶

Most people I talk to that work on cars enjoy taking things apart, but hate putting them back together. Its the opposite for me. I can't stand taking stuff apart. Putting them together is satisfying and easy to me. Perhaps it was all the Lego building back in the day lol. That CRV hybrid was a pain in the ass to pull apart, but went together smooth other than timing. Timing threw me for a loop because where you lock the cams is about 6 degrees off from the timing marks on the cams. So looks about a tooth off on the crank.

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17 minutes ago, vetali said:

Most people I talk to that work on cars enjoy taking things apart, but hate putting them back together. Its the opposite for me. I can't stand taking stuff apart. Putting them together is satisfying and easy to me. Perhaps it was all the Lego building back in the day lol. That CRV hybrid was a pain in the ass to pull apart, but went together smooth other than timing. Timing threw me for a loop because where you lock the cams is about 6 degrees off from the timing marks on the cams. So looks about a tooth off on the crank.

GM 3.6 is timed weird too, you have tools to lock the cams one at a time to set them in the right spot so when you roll the engine over it all lines up. On my old Mazda the belt would ONLY slip on in proper time if you rolled the intake cam clock wise to push the slack down around the crank then you could get it onto the exhaust cam, then let the intake cam come back, roll the engine over one turn and it all lined up, but you COULD NOT get the belt to slip on with all the marks properly aligned. 2ZZ timing marks aren't actually aligned exactly either, they're slightly off kilter from the timing cover and don't exactly point at each other, the 1ZZ timing marks align perfectly at each other and level with the timing cover. The Toyota S engines have 2 timing marks on the cam and two marks on the engine, only one set is the correct set of marks to align, the others are there just to fuck with you. I could go on and on about this shit.

I enjoy taking apart and putting together, but I really enjoy seeing what failed and why it failed so I can try to make sure it doesn't happen again. To me a job well done is a job that never needs to be done again.

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19 hours ago, Bitter said:

GM 3.6 is timed weird too, you have tools to lock the cams one at a time to set them in the right spot so when you roll the engine over it all lines up. On my old Mazda the belt would ONLY slip on in proper time if you rolled the intake cam clock wise to push the slack down around the crank then you could get it onto the exhaust cam, then let the intake cam come back, roll the engine over one turn and it all lined up, but you COULD NOT get the belt to slip on with all the marks properly aligned. 2ZZ timing marks aren't actually aligned exactly either, they're slightly off kilter from the timing cover and don't exactly point at each other, the 1ZZ timing marks align perfectly at each other and level with the timing cover. The Toyota S engines have 2 timing marks on the cam and two marks on the engine, only one set is the correct set of marks to align, the others are there just to fuck with you. I could go on and on about this shit.

I enjoy taking apart and putting together, but I really enjoy seeing what failed and why it failed so I can try to make sure it doesn't happen again. To me a job well done is a job that never needs to be done again.

Hopefully all the Rodeos / first gen Passports rotted away over there. Timing those are fun. Non interference so its not a big deal to screw it up, but theres a damn service bulletin explaining how to time those things.

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On 2/14/2024 at 4:12 PM, Bitter said:

They have a "warranty" .... 190K I'll be shocked if the injectors come out without a fight.

Warranty @ 190k ? 

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55 minutes ago, vetali said:

Hopefully all the Rodeos / first gen Passports rotted away over there. Timing those are fun. Non interference so its not a big deal to screw it up, but theres a damn service bulletin explaining how to time those things.

I haven't seen one since last year. 🙂

15 minutes ago, OhioYJ said:

Warranty @ 190k ? 

Yeah with Endurance so you know they gonna finna pay for eeeeevvvveeerrrryyyyyythang just like on the radio commercials!

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7 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I haven't seen one since last year. 🙂

Yeah with Endurance so you know they gonna finna pay for eeeeevvvveeerrrryyyyyythang just like on the radio commercials!

Be blessed, we still fend them off. We don't work on them at all anymore. The customers are the worst, and the rigs are pretty much rust buckets everywhere but where it leaks oil on.

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1 minute ago, vetali said:

Be blessed, we still fend them off. We don't work on them at all anymore. The customers are the worst, and the rigs are pretty much rust buckets everywhere but where it leaks oil on.

Yep. There's very little we turn away, we'll at least make an effort before saying no.

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On 2/8/2024 at 6:29 PM, jre84 said:

I do alot of street racing, and take the sport serious as it can be dangerous at times, that is with the wrong person behind the wheel. but after 20 plus years of honing in my skills iv'e hit the ceiling and now its just a hobby, below is my new ride its fast sleek and gets the job done, and if I ever wanna race again its got the power and tourque. looking forward to tuning the exhaust.

 

What's the quarter mile on that beast?

"an obvious supporter of privacy"

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The snow got me on Friday.....

PXL_20240217_030554010.thumb.jpg.a97071ff469f839dfeba39771a7093c2.jpg

 

Last time snow was in the forecast I drove my girlfriends Cruze to work and we got NOTHING. Figured it wouldn't be bad this time and it took me 30 minutes to go a little over 4 miles .

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I mean it is still winter. We got some sticking dusting of snow here on Friday. The big shit show was the semi truck that ripped open a full fuel tank on a broken sign post on a traffic island while trying to get un-stuck from a left turn into a tunnel. Dropped the whole tank of fuel, ripped some other shit off, missed popping a couple tires by inches, then just left. Hazmat took like 5 hours to get the road cleaned up because the fuel ran into the tunnel about 100ft, may have contaminated some pump basins for the tunnel as well. Not 5 minutes after the intersection opened, another truck tried to make the same turn and got stuck.

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How many injectors will survive?

IMG_20240220_161618.thumb.jpg.7f2e356bcd05d44214bfc918706b0a3b.jpg

 

Also, another corpse-mobile, Grand Caravan this time.

IMG_20240221_101512.thumb.jpg.abfcf102c0e3a51465494c9d7396fbbb.jpg

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Well, after a year of research I finally pulled the plug, er, added a plug:

 

2024 Ioniq 5 limited:

ioniq5a.thumb.jpg.ce8414013ec4427b98a6858b6e190034.jpg

 

Installed the charging station on the back of my house almost a year ago when I started looking, so I'm now finally using it.

 

My last 5 cars have been Chevys, but GM no longer makes any EV I'm interested in.  I was looking forward to the Equinox EV but then the specs came out and it is going to be bigger than the Equinox I had.  Then I was seriously considering a Bolt EUV but then they announced they were discontinuing that line.  So the only 2 left that I liked were the Hyundai Ioniq 5 and the Nissan Ariya.  Been going back and forth between those 2 for several months, came down to the big cash back deals Hyundai is offering this month. 

 

Love it so far, took a 100 mile trip last weekend and only used $4 in electricity.  That is about the farthest trip I do these days so I probably won't ever need to use public charging. 

 

Kind of sad in a way, in my life I've gone from rebuilding engines back in the late '70s to not being able to fix a darn thing with all the computer controlled stuff, now I really won't be working on anything car related anymore.

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Found something pretty cool about my car, the people who programmed the infotainment are obviously gamers; you can access a hidden menu which lets you bring up a bunch of different diagnositc screens if you punch in a particular code, and they called it "Cheat codes".

20231229_211010.thumb.JPG.29fddca16bd0435fcc79b1adf11fd915.JPG

20231229_211244.thumb.JPG.cf24f61979c2472382a37a449fd39fed.JPG

 

Keeping this in mind, I'm pretty sure whoever programmed this was also a sadist, for choosing ABC layout for the onscreen keyboard.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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1 hour ago, iBabySlapper said:

Found something pretty cool about my car, the people who programmed the infotainment are obviously gamers; you can access a hidden menu which lets you bring up a bunch of different diagnositc screens if you punch in a particular code, and they called it "Cheat codes".

-snip-

Keeping this in mind, I'm pretty sure whoever programmed this was also a sadist, for choosing ABC layout for the onscreen keyboard.

ah yes, paying probably thousands for an infotainment system with probably 512MB of total RAM. 

Just the way cars go I guess haha

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13 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

ah yes, paying probably thousands for an infotainment system with probably 512MB of total RAM. 

Just the way cars go I guess haha

No, it isn't that high, the dealer part price for a new head unit is about £400. That's probably 8x what it costs to make though lol

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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On 2/22/2024 at 10:12 AM, MartyS said:

 

Love it so far, took a 100 mile trip last weekend and only used $4 in electricity.  That is about the farthest trip I do these days so I probably won't ever need to use public charging. 

 

 

Kinda funny as several times a year I take a trip out to a hotdog stand in West Virginia on my motorcycle from central Ohio.  It's almost 350 miles round trip just to get a hotdog for lunch.  I unfortunately have an entirely different view of what is long distance and what is useful as a vehicle.  I might be stuck in the mud but doubt I will ever downgrade to a plug in electric vehicle.

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