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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

11 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I agree. just too hard to find with a manual lol.

Also the hood release(the handle of which was broken and needed a pair of pliers to pull on) didn't work for me today. luckily the plastic cover was missing up front above the grille, so I just unbolted the hood latch and cut the cable.

so that'll be fun to replace

New cables from honda are like 20 bucks and pretty easy to swap out. Lube up the hood release otherwise you'll break the new one right away. 

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19 minutes ago, vetali said:

New cables from honda are like 20 bucks and pretty easy to swap out. Lube up the hood release otherwise you'll break the new one right away. 

yeah just ordered a OEM hood cable and release ($45 total not bad). and I will lube it.

I need fluids. what's your recommendation for MTF and power steering fluid for this car? Certain Honda fluid I should use?

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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12 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

yeah just ordered a OEM hood cable and release ($45 total not bad). and I will lube it.

I need fluids. what's your recommendation for MTF and power steering fluid for this car? Certain Honda fluid I should use?

I've only used honda stuff but I don't own any honda manuals so I can't say. Power steering for sure honda fluid. Its cheap. 

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16 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

yeah just ordered a OEM hood cable and release ($45 total not bad). and I will lube it.

I need fluids. what's your recommendation for MTF and power steering fluid for this car? Certain Honda fluid I should use?

I use GM Synchromesh Friction modified MTF in my accord. (a bit spendy though)

 

Oem Honda MTF is good too if you don't have synchro issues.

 

Use only Honda OEM power steering fluid. they use different stuff than everyone else.

I drive a Honda, but i'm a Toyota boy at heart.

I use Apple products, and I like it.

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19 minutes ago, FuzzyYellow said:

I use GM Synchromesh Friction modified MTF in my accord. (a bit spendy though)

 

Oem Honda MTF is good too if you don't have synchro issues.

 

Use only Honda OEM power steering fluid. they use different stuff than everyone else.

I use that ford stuff in my miata but I guess since it seems a lot of ppl use syncromesh in these from my searching, I'll try that for this car.

 

21 minutes ago, vetali said:

I've only used honda stuff but I don't own any honda manuals so I can't say. Power steering for sure honda fluid. Its cheap. 

def use honda power steering fluid. got it.

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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15 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I use that ford stuff in my miata but I guess since it seems a lot of ppl use syncromesh in these from my searching, I'll try that for this car.

 

def use honda power steering fluid. got it.

Syncromesh is thin like the Honda stuff. I'd say its better than the OEM stuff. OEM before the issues with the v6 accords and s2ks was pretty much 5w-30 motor oil. OEM got revised from that, but I've still heard meh things about it. 

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On 6/22/2019 at 3:06 PM, LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo said:

You that was a beautiful looking car, wait until you see one of these...

 

Image result for Citroen DS

wouldnt be my first choice but i would be proud to have it in my collection

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7 minutes ago, xreaperx22 said:

wouldnt be my first choice but i would be proud to have it in my collection

yeah isn't that car like stupid comfortable? lol

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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I've had nice luck with Redline LWSP blended 50/50 with ATF in an older Mazda box that had some syncro issues when hot, the straight ATF specc'd for it got too thin and they'd get hard to shift between gears unless you shifted super slowly, the LWSP added some stickiness to the fluid which increases stick-tion for the synchros to keeps things all moving and shifting nicely with out any grinding and without making it hard to shift when cold. If you have syncro issues try blending in some LWSP to make the fluid stickier.

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:
 

 

That hurt... :|

"Everyone dies alone. But if you meant something to someone, if you helped someone, or loved someone, if even a single person remembers you, then maybe you never really die. And maybe, this isn't the end at all."

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19 hours ago, vetali said:

99% of the honda wheel bearings I've done have been because of noise and had no play. If the noise changes with road surface change then its a tire noise. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-1069-Socket-Set-17mm/dp/B01LDFUZOG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=crankshaft+bolt+socket&qid=1561312211&s=gateway&sr=8-6 and I'd just get a decent battery 1/2 inch impact. Never have issues with honda crank bolts using that socket set. I think that gen of engines used 19mm bolts, older ones had 17mm. Not sure though. Doesn't have ABS so its an easy belt to do. 

Unfortunately a lot of "decent" battery impacts are only 300-450 ft-lbs looks like. Z expensive ones supposedly are 750ft-lbs and higher. I'm surprised the corded ones are so low. HF has a corded one that they claim is 1050 ft-lbs, but if you look on the spec sheet it's only 300 lol.

I'd be risking the engine again but I'm considering calling a local shop and ask if they can blast it off for me and put it back on as loose as is comfortable for me to just get back home and break it off myself. They prob wouldn't want to do it tho.. wouldn't be giving them business

 

ETCG used a IR2135 with 120PSI.. (and a nice socket) I can find these things used on ebay for $80 which is tempting. (also I kind of need an air compressor anyway right? how else am I supposed to fill tires and stuff at home?)

Or I could just get that tool to hold the crankshaft in place along with some strong socket extensions and use my jack handle as a cheater bar and hope that works... also I work at a desk all day and don't work out. So i'm not the strongest man.

 

idk what to do.. spending $300 in tools for one job that I wont do again for another 100k miles seems stupid

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Unfortunately a lot of "decent" battery impacts are only 300-450 ft-lbs looks like. Z expensive ones supposedly are 750ft-lbs and higher. I'm surprised the corded ones are so low. HF has a corded one that they claim is 1050 ft-lbs, but if you look on the spec sheet it's only 300 lol.

I'd be risking the engine again but I'm considering calling a local shop and ask if they can blast it off for me and put it back on as loose as is comfortable for me to just get back home and break it off myself. They prob wouldn't want to do it tho.. wouldn't be giving them business

 

ETCG used a IR2135 with 120PSI.. (and a nice socket) I can find these things used on ebay for $60 which is tempting.

Or I could just get that tool to hold the crankshaft in place along with some strong socket extensions and use my jack handle as a cheater bar and hope that works...

 

idk what to do.. spending $300 in tools for one job that I wont do again for another 100k miles seems stupid

A good impact is always handy to have. It's something I'd always recommend to spend some good money on, same thing with electric ratchets

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4 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

idk what to do.. spending $300 in tools for one job that I wont do again for another 100k miles seems stupid

 

*slowly puts sheet over the hydraulic press in the corner*

 

Seriously, buy the tools, you'll use them more than you think. 

CPU: i7-4790k MOBO: Asus Maximus VII Gene RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X63 w/ Noctua NF-A14s 

GPU: Asus Strix GTX-980 Case: Corsair 350D PSU: Corsair AX-760i Storage: 2 x 500GB Evo RAID0 + 2 x 8TB WD Red's in RAID1 

 

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21 minutes ago, Real_PhillBert said:

 

*slowly puts sheet over the hydraulic press in the corner*

 

Seriously, buy the tools, you'll use them more than you think. 

I need a garage door to hide said tools xD

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 and 2 x Seagate ST2000DM006 (in RAID 0 for games!) - The good old Corsair GS700 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 27" 1440p and ASUS VS239H-P 1080p 23" - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

 

Avid Miata autocrosser :D

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16 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I need a garage door to hide said tools xD

Baby steps haha.

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51 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Unfortunately a lot of "decent" battery impacts are only 300-450 ft-lbs looks like. Z expensive ones supposedly are 750ft-lbs and higher. I'm surprised the corded ones are so low. HF has a corded one that they claim is 1050 ft-lbs, but if you look on the spec sheet it's only 300 lol.

I'd be risking the engine again but I'm considering calling a local shop and ask if they can blast it off for me and put it back on as loose as is comfortable for me to just get back home and break it off myself. They prob wouldn't want to do it tho.. wouldn't be giving them business

 

ETCG used a IR2135 with 120PSI.. (and a nice socket) I can find these things used on ebay for $80 which is tempting. (also I kind of need an air compressor anyway right? how else am I supposed to fill tires and stuff at home?)

Or I could just get that tool to hold the crankshaft in place along with some strong socket extensions and use my jack handle as a cheater bar and hope that works... also I work at a desk all day and don't work out. So i'm not the strongest man.

 

idk what to do.. spending $300 in tools for one job that I wont do again for another 100k miles seems stupid

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2763-20-2-Inch-Torque-Friction/dp/B00GFUA6O4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SIGPTIL9F31Q&keywords=milwaukee+1%2F2+inch+impact+wrench&qid=1561385152&s=gateway&sprefix=milwaukee+1%2F2+inch+%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

 

Doesn't struggle at all on honda crank bolts. 

i7 8700k 5.0ghz  / 32GB gskill tridentz / ASUS Z370-A Prime / EVGA RTX 2080 Super XC / LG 34GL750 / Logitech G513 romerg tactile / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

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26 minutes ago, vetali said:

I have the big Dewalt one, as all of my cordless tools are Dewalt, and it's never been stopped. It'll either remove the bolt, or break it off if you really give her hell, but the bolt isn't staying. 

CPU: i7-4790k MOBO: Asus Maximus VII Gene RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X63 w/ Noctua NF-A14s 

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My Dewalt impacts have only struggled when air impacts struggled, eg the E36s rear wheel bearing nut. Other than that, they've been phenomenal.

 

Ideal world, get these:

1/2 big honking battery impact (for when you need the uggaduggas)

3/8 battery impact (everything else)

3/8 electric ratchet

1/4 low profile electric ratchet  (header nuts)

 

Can do damn near anything with those four.

 

Also lights. I use the dewalt lights far more than I ever expected.

 

Unrelated: not my best driving or best lap at Laguna, but if you like glorious loud engine noises, here ya go. CSL airboxed S54 swapped E36. Tires were DONE.

 

 

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4 hours ago, bimmerman said:

Unrelated: not my best driving or best lap at Laguna, but if you like glorious loud engine noises, here ya go. CSL airboxed S54 swapped E36. Tires were DONE.

 

Oh yes :x

How's the car doing? Also, ever considered an M-Tech II steering wheel?

That part in the end when the Challenger was trying to pull on you but you were like, nah-ah boi

"Everyone dies alone. But if you meant something to someone, if you helped someone, or loved someone, if even a single person remembers you, then maybe you never really die. And maybe, this isn't the end at all."

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@MEC-777 There is officially a Holden Maloo in our wonderful province.

 

image.png.6ace808444a1b2b9ed9fb6ea9111e03c.png

 

https://www.rightdrive.ca/vehicle/2001-hsv-maloo-supercharged-1749/

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6 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

Oh yes :x

How's the car doing? Also, ever considered an M-Tech II steering wheel?

That part in the end when the Challenger was trying to pull on you but you were like, nah-ah boi

I've thought about a different wheel, but there has always been something higher priority. Currently needs a bit of dent removal, then new tires & brake pads, then halo seat + cage + add lightness, then fenders + 295 or 315s + purple crack. The wagon wheel is ugly but it does steer the car, replacement will be something with a quick release.

 

The pair of challengers kept blowing sound, it was quite amusing actually.

 

Had some fun chasing / sliding down a nascar thing at Thunderhill the weekend before. Exhaust is mic'd this time.

 

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On 6/21/2019 at 10:33 AM, xreaperx22 said:

my Dream Car:

Porsche GT2 RS with the Weissach package!

porsche-zoom.jpg.b6140d67658287716e1b71e5870e78a8.jpg

This was at Buttonwillow over memorial day weekend. Guy was not pussyfooting around in it either. Temp plates and already covered in tire rubber goobers. Doing it right!

20190525_074918_HDR.jpg

20190525_074907_HDR.jpg

 

and from the same day, bonus of my car lifting the inside wheel, because took the rally line

Advanced Group (RED)-10am (Sunset)-o-BW2_2895_May2519_CaliPhoto.jpg

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On 6/23/2019 at 11:10 AM, bcredeur97 said:

I agree. just too hard to find with a manual lol.
 

finding one or a TLX for my J type swap is going to be hard.

Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

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I've got to get and finally do an oil change. I'm just going to get my usual castrol with whatever decent filter is on sale.

Should I run standard GTX or GTX high mileage? 

 

my poor 2000 Civic EX is going to hit 63,000 at the start of july.

A few weeks after I'm going to hand it to my shop for a full inspection and most likely a brakes change given that at around 58 thousand last year it was coming up on due.

Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

NightHawk 2.0: R7 2700 @4.0ghz, B450m Steel Legends, H105, 4x8gb Geil EVO 2866, XFX RX 580 8GB, Corsair RM750X, 500 gb 850 evo, 500gb 850 pro and 5tb Toshiba x300

Skunkworks: R5 3500U, 16gb, 250 intel 730, 500gb Adata XPG 6000 lite, Vega 8. HP probook G455R G6

Condor (MC server): 6600K, z170m plus, 16gb corsair vengeance LPX, samsung 750 evo, EVGA BR 450.

Bearcat (F@H box) core 2 duo, 1x4gb EEC DDR2, 250gb WD blue, 9800GTX+, STRIX 660ti, supermicro PSU, dell T3400.

Rappter(unfinished compute server) HP DL380G6 2xE5520 24GB ram with 4x146gb 10k drives and 4x300gb 10K drives, running NOTHING can't get anything to work

Spirt  (unfinished NAS) Cisco Security Multiservices Platform server e5420 12gb ram, 1x6 1tb raid 6 for plex + Need funding 16+1 2tb raid 6 for mass storage.

PSU Tier List      Motherboard Tier List      How to get PC parts cheap    HP probook 445R G6 review

 

"Stupidity is like trying to find a limit of a constant. You are never truly smart in something, just less stupid."  @CircleTech

Camera Gear: Canon SL2, 60D, T5, 24-105 F, 50mm F1.4, 75-300 III, rokinon 25 T1.5, Helios44-m, Sony FS700R, 2 Cos-11D lavs

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