Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Bitter]

Usually there's room to unbolt the gear, take the steering shaft loose, and push it up at an angle then get the puller in there. Usually. They also have some extra low profile pullers these days that have a hydraulic multiplier in the pusher screw so hand tools are plenty to pop it. If it's stuck I've found that an air hammer against it helps shake it off the taper shaft while the puller is under tension. If you DGAF about the gear then heat will almost let it slip off.

[vetali]

Another day of condemning a J series short block due to some goomba using the whole tube of hondabond for an oil pan reseal. Hydrolocked the blind holes and cracked the block causing a slow leak.

[Beerzerker]

On 9/22/2023 at 4:35 PM, Bitter said:

Usually there's room to unbolt the gear, take the steering shaft loose, and push it up at an angle then get the puller in there. Usually. They also have some extra low profile pullers these days that have a hydraulic multiplier in the pusher screw so hand tools are plenty to pop it. If it's stuck I've found that an air hammer against it helps shake it off the taper shaft while the puller is under tension. If you DGAF about the gear then heat will almost let it slip off.

I'll have to see how it does with the shaft once I get the body loose but at the same time, I can tell you almost nothing is easy to work on in this truck.

I'm also having to do this in my carport so I don't have things like a torch handy, just hand and airtools to work with but good thing is I've got as long as it takes to get it done, whether it's a day or a week to do it. 
And if heat is called for, I'll just take the steering body with the pitman arm up to the shop where my Falcon is and "Borrow" their torch.

I can do that because I still have to get the head off the engine in the Model A I got running for them earlier. Confirmed blown head gasket in that one but like so many other A's, it's head is stuck and being a total bee-otch to remove.

[Bitter]

Every tire is a run flat if you run on it flat.

I gotta check to see what it ate up in that wheel well, but the rubber porcupine is strong on this one. Better glove up with leather! Gonna get real kinky today boys.

[DANK_AS_gay]

25 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Every tire is a run flat if you run on it flat.

I gotta check to see what it ate up in that wheel well, but the rubber porcupine is strong on this one. Better glove up with leather! Gonna get real kinky today boys.

Hey, those wires don't look kinky to me. Torn maybe, but not kinked. And besides, who doesn't run their tires down to slicks for better track performance?

[DANK_AS_gay]

My parents and I worked out a deal where we swapped cars for college. I now have a 3000$ 300k mile 2013 Toyota Highlander with brake problems, BUT I don't have to pay payments on my 2016 HR-V that had 150k miles on it. Insurance is insane, but it's reasonable given my age. I probably shouldn't have access to 270hp, regardless of the weight of the car. 0-60 in roughly 7 secs is insane (for me), and it makes a wonderful noise from the 3.5l 2gr-fe. I am lucky to have parents that are financially stable and who love me enough to take on my mistake so I can be successful later on in life.

 

Should I do some preventative maintenance? New gasket on the oil pan? New head gaskets before they inevitably blow? I'm not familiar with high mileage car problems, so I'm keeping an eye on the things I do know, like bushings and ball joints, as well as the things stated above. The water pump tends to not be great on these, but we caught it and had it replaced a few tens of thousands of miles ago.

[Vonrottes]

21 minutes ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

My parents and I worked out a deal where we swapped cars for college. I now have a 3000$ 300k mile 2013 Toyota Highlander with brake problems, BUT I don't have to pay payments on my 2016 HR-V that had 150k miles on it. Insurance is insane, but it's reasonable given my age. I probably shouldn't have access to 270hp, regardless of the weight of the car. 0-60 in roughly 7 secs is insane (for me), and it makes a wonderful noise from the 3.5l 2gr-fe. I am lucky to have parents that are financially stable and who love me enough to take on my mistake so I can be successful later on in life.

 

Should I do some preventative maintenance? New gasket on the oil pan? New head gaskets before they inevitably blow? I'm not familiar with high mileage car problems, so I'm keeping an eye on the things I do know, like bushings and ball joints, as well as the things stated above. The water pump tends to not be great on these, but we caught it and had it replaced a few tens of thousands of miles ago.

270hp/248tq is pathetic for a 4,200lb truck. that's the same power-weight as my truck would have been stock.... 0.06hp per pound. capable enough to merge on the highway but have fun trying to pass people..

as for preventative maintenance, if it's not leaking don't touch it. Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, pad/rotors, simple stuff is all I'd do.
if it's past due definitely get the timing chain/belt done.

[Bitter]

Some 2GR have an issue with oil lines made from rubber up front by the oil filter. Look up The Car Care But on YouTube.

 

 

[bcredeur97]

coworker of mine has an interesting dilemma. He currently has a 2015 Duramax Sierra with 260k miles on it. He's a skydiver, so he drives back and forth to Houston, TX a lot. Sometimes every weekend, lol. 

He says he almost wants a camper-converted (and he said he could DIY this himself) van because he often sleeps in his truck at the site where he sky dives, but it'd be a lot more comfortable to have something like that.

BUT he also wants to only have 1 vehicle and would like to get something more efficient for everyday than his big truck he currently has. 

Anyone know of something that would be a good balance for this? Everything I can think of won't do that great in terms of fuel economy lol. I feel like you just have to accept that. Or like, what would you guys do in his situation?

[Bitter]

57 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

coworker of mine has an interesting dilemma. He currently has a 2015 Duramax Sierra with 260k miles on it. He's a skydiver, so he drives back and forth to Houston, TX a lot. Sometimes every weekend, lol. 

He says he almost wants a camper-converted (and he said he could DIY this himself) van because he often sleeps in his truck at the site where he sky dives, but it'd be a lot more comfortable to have something like that.

BUT he also wants to only have 1 vehicle and would like to get something more efficient for everyday than his big truck he currently has. 

Anyone know of something that would be a good balance for this? Everything I can think of won't do that great in terms of fuel economy lol. I feel like you just have to accept that. Or like, what would you guys do in his situation?

Mini-van.

[bcredeur97]

8 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Mini-van.

I forget those exist

[AlwaysFSX]

1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

coworker of mine has an interesting dilemma. He currently has a 2015 Duramax Sierra with 260k miles on it. He's a skydiver, so he drives back and forth to Houston, TX a lot. Sometimes every weekend, lol. 

He says he almost wants a camper-converted (and he said he could DIY this himself) van because he often sleeps in his truck at the site where he sky dives, but it'd be a lot more comfortable to have something like that.

BUT he also wants to only have 1 vehicle and would like to get something more efficient for everyday than his big truck he currently has. 

Anyone know of something that would be a good balance for this? Everything I can think of won't do that great in terms of fuel economy lol. I feel like you just have to accept that. Or like, what would you guys do in his situation?

Drive 5-10 mph slower and get better gas mileage lol

 

And get one of these and only put it on the bed when needed:

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

I forget those exist

Seriously, a late model Grand Caravan with the flat floor would probably work out fine as a cheap hotel for the night. Not the most roomy but much better gas mileage and enough room to sleep one person and pack some gear. My friend in Cali that does window coverings professionally uses a Pacifica for work vehicle because it looks nice enough in client driveways and gated communities but has enough room for tools and materials to work a job. It's flat floor is great for hauling stuff.

[JoaoPRSousa]

12 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Drive 5-10 mph slower and get better gas mileage lol

 

Cannot recommend this enough.

[DANK_AS_gay]

19 hours ago, Vonrottes said:

270hp/248tq is pathetic for a 4,200lb truck. that's the same power-weight as my truck would have been stock.... 0.06hp per pound. capable enough to merge on the highway but have fun trying to pass people..

as for preventative maintenance, if it's not leaking don't touch it. Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, pad/rotors, simple stuff is all I'd do.
if it's past due definitely get the timing chain/belt done.

It seems like a powerhouse compared to my previous vehicles and my friends vehicles. We're talking a Honda HR-V (140 hp and 120 ftlbs of torque through a cvt to all four wheels on a 3000 lb car), a Hyundai Veloster non-turbo, a toyota camry hybrid, a 1980s golf cabriolet, and some others I forget. Plus, power/weight isn't everything. For one thing, this is the lowest trim (meaning less weight, even if only a little), for another, I went from 0-60 in 12 secs to 7-8 secs. That's a massive jump.

[AlwaysFSX]

37 minutes ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

Cannot recommend this enough.

Especially with current gas prices

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

Cannot recommend this enough.

Illegal in Texas. If you're not driving 100mph with everyone else then you must be a criminal. Also you're a criminal for speeding. Don't mess with Texas.

[Vonrottes]

maybe I'm doing something wrong here.... but after finishing VE tuning my truck getting to .99-1.01 lambda with .85-.87 pe, I turned the fuel trims, dfco and other daily driver things that get disabled for tuning..... and it now nearly stalls going 1.3 lean off idle when cold has basically no torque below 2,500 and wideband is just bouncing around between .95 and 1.08 .

 

How....HOW did I go from running open loop with basically perfect lambda to now the fuel trims are pulling 7% making it go lean then adding 7% to bring it back to stoich... guess I get to just disable the left and stft again and run it open loop

[Bitter]

Are you getting bad data from a sensor? MAF, ECT, O2 all reading correctly?

[Vonrottes]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Are you getting bad data from a sensor? MAF, ECT, O2 all reading correctly?

MAF is off still running speed density only thing I can guess is the switching voltage for the narrowband O2 sensors is wrong.

Imma fiddle around with it today before work. But if I can't figure it out it's going back to open loop, only issue I had there was going lean 1.05 at idle because of iat heat soak. Not tryna take it to get tuned professionally since a gen 4 6.0 is in the near future for it

[Bitter]

Narrow band ah yeah fiddly things, can get skewed a bit and cause problems. Check sensor response by making a vacuum leak and then by adding fuel. Should be apparent that it's a bad sensor if you can't push it full rich or flat lean or that it's always showing rich or lean when you know it's not.

 

But also the LS intake gaskets always have air leak problems unless they're fairly new.

[Vonrottes]

Well that is embarrassing I forgot to enable closed loop, was still set to 280°

Got that turned back on and did a log turns out disabling a malfunctioning knock sensor ISN'T the way to do it since it was pulling max timing everywhere. so I just copied the high octane tables over to the low octane table and turned of the SES for knock sensor 2 as a bandaid until I have time to pull the intake and replace the knock sensor again.... 

Will still pull timing if sensor 1 registers knock, but as a safety measure if a sensor fails it defaults to the low octane table and then knock retard goes from there..

 

Did another log on my drive to work, maybe like .5° tip KR in but that's probably not actually knock just noise from headers and solid engine mounts, fuel trims are good, O2 are switching properly, bank 1 is looking a little slow compared to bank 2 that was replaced a few months ago. And wideband is switching with the narrowband between .98 and 1.03 and narrows in closer to a steady 1.00 with more rpm until I switches to PE which holds steady at .85

 

still have a little lean spike from transient fueling but I don't understand the math on that stuff soooo I'll ask the hptuners forums where to go and how to add fueling for a off idle tip in lean spike

 

yes the iat is hot, it's a hot air intake

 

[Bitter]

A hard tip-in or just a little tip in? Like a stab to WOT for a moment or like just a normal oh hey here's 20% throttle? There's probably an enrichment somewhere but that also may be a consequence of running speed density, if it's not causing knock or a stumble it's probably not worth worrying about. Airflow sensors respond pretty fast but depending on where the MAP sensor is there could be a little lag in a plenum with a really large volume I'd think. Also remember narrow band, that dip might be only 15:1 AFR.

[Vonrottes]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

A hard tip-in or just a little tip in? Like a stab to WOT for a moment or like just a normal oh hey here's 20% throttle? There's probably an enrichment somewhere but that also may be a consequence of running speed density, if it's not causing knock or a stumble it's probably not worth worrying about. Airflow sensors respond pretty fast but depending on where the MAP sensor is there could be a little lag in a plenum with a really large volume I'd think. Also remember narrow band, that dip might be only 15:1 AFR.

tried to log it again on my lunch break and it's what I'd call acceptable. 1.20 for a lil'jab on the throttle from idle at 0mph might just be some airflow mode switch over or something.. I'm just gonna say it's not a big deal because iirc my G8 that was professionally tuned had a similar 1.18 - 1.20 lean spike under the same conditions.

 

Either way truck runs so much better than the stock tune settings, need to get it to a test and tune day next month see what it can do now... best pass was a 14.2 at 98mph no launch, leaving in 2nd gear on 30psi street tires. Because spring warp is real

[the gamer that is bad]

How good is a pre 95 gmc jimmy as a first diesel car?