Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[vetali]

49 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

that's nuts. Maybe on a BMW or something I would understand, but we're going a little too crazy with everyday autos. ppl won't be able to afford this stuff out of warranty  

 

..and it's not even really that great for you. I mean yeah it's work.. but it's 90% parts and 10% labor cost I'm sure. Lol. The former anyway, im sure there's decent money on the compressor shaft seals

That hybrid compressor was 8 hours. I think I flagged 16 hours that day because I also did a compressor on a CR-V (4 hours) and 2 shaft seals. Shaft seals are like 2 hours and some change. Luckily Honda doesn't really pull a GM and reduce times when they figure out about techs flat rating it.

 

11 minutes ago, Bitter said:

He was pretty far into it and decided not to do that, at that point I don't think it would have helped. He finds the worst angles and directions to come at things lol and just brute forces through.

I thought that way too when I first did one. Foreman told me to pull the axle, I will thank him later... I was like, eh I got plenty of room. Got the intake bracket off before I said f- it and pulled the axle lol.

[Vonrottes]

On 7/12/2023 at 10:15 PM, vetali said:

NSFL

 

Set up many just by one dugga (its only like 10ftlb spec). Had to reshim a few times to get the gap right. Put the new nut on and it didn't like it.

Das a weird looking AC compressor.

[Bitter]

Today's problem child is 2009 Flex with no comms between ECM and PATS, IPC, ABS, and OCS. I need to find J/C 1 where the first HSCAN split is so I can see if the ECM is making CAN talk or not, one connector at it was waterlogged. Junction Connector 1 is "left rear engine bay" which is super vague because ECM was "rear engine bay" but under the wiper cowl. Found a Ford picture of the engine bay locations and it's supposed to be under the wiper cowl in the "engine bay" but it's just not there anywhere unless it's inside the cabin under the dash and just really really bad labelling from Ford. I'm definitely getting the big F on this one. I know once I find it it'll be pretty straightforward to see if we got a rotten connection at JC1 or a bad PCM. Waterlogged connector was full of trans stuff not CAN lines so I'm not ready to call it a PCM just yet for the no-start comms issue. No doubt it'll end up having trans problems and need an ECM and pigtail there but it's not here for that yet.

I know what the dealer would do...sell an ECM and engine harness then if that didn't work sell a PATS module and if it's still broken the customer can't afford to fix it anymore so they're all done with it lol.

[bcredeur97]

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

Today's problem child is 2009 Flex with no comms between ECM and PATS, IPC, ABS, and OCS. I need to find J/C 1 where the first HSCAN split is so I can see if the ECM is making CAN talk or not, one connector at it was waterlogged. Junction Connector 1 is "left rear engine bay" which is super vague because ECM was "rear engine bay" but under the wiper cowl. Found a Ford picture of the engine bay locations and it's supposed to be under the wiper cowl in the "engine bay" but it's just not there anywhere unless it's inside the cabin under the dash and just really really bad labelling from Ford. I'm definitely getting the big F on this one. I know once I find it it'll be pretty straightforward to see if we got a rotten connection at JC1 or a bad PCM. Waterlogged connector was full of trans stuff not CAN lines so I'm not ready to call it a PCM just yet for the no-start comms issue. No doubt it'll end up having trans problems and need an ECM and pigtail there but it's not here for that yet.

I know what the dealer would do...sell an ECM and engine harness then if that didn't work sell a PATS module and if it's still broken the customer can't afford to fix it anymore so they're all done with it lol.

it's pretty sad when mechanics/dealerships parts cannon things. 

I'm literally paying you to not do that, because that's something I would do. If you're just gonna do that, then no point in me using you lol...

[vetali]

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

Today's problem child is 2009 Flex with no comms between ECM and PATS, IPC, ABS, and OCS. I need to find J/C 1 where the first HSCAN split is so I can see if the ECM is making CAN talk or not, one connector at it was waterlogged. Junction Connector 1 is "left rear engine bay" which is super vague because ECM was "rear engine bay" but under the wiper cowl. Found a Ford picture of the engine bay locations and it's supposed to be under the wiper cowl in the "engine bay" but it's just not there anywhere unless it's inside the cabin under the dash and just really really bad labelling from Ford. I'm definitely getting the big F on this one. I know once I find it it'll be pretty straightforward to see if we got a rotten connection at JC1 or a bad PCM. Waterlogged connector was full of trans stuff not CAN lines so I'm not ready to call it a PCM just yet for the no-start comms issue. No doubt it'll end up having trans problems and need an ECM and pigtail there but it's not here for that yet.

I know what the dealer would do...sell an ECM and engine harness then if that didn't work sell a PATS module and if it's still broken the customer can't afford to fix it anymore so they're all done with it lol.

Ford is terrible at providing locations on 3rd party repair sites. I was trying to find a cylinder head temp sensor on a 5.0. Had to google it.

 

Gonna be great when these newer cars start hitting independent shops. Had an Accord a long time ago that couldn't communicate with the integrated driver support system. I forget the code, but the diagnostic was "substitute known good multipurpose camera unit, if that doesn't work then substitute radar unit".

 

Like, those parts collectively are $3k before aiming which we charge 1.5 hours for each. Luckily I had a radar unit from a CRV in the warranty return parts pile. Same connector so I plugged it in and I could communicate, just had a bunch of codes for incorrect model radar.

[Beerzerker]

23 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

 

I'm sorry but the human race has done something wrong if an A/C compressor for a car is $3000

and for $3000 it should be extremely difficult to do what you did. Actually the O.G. should of never broke in the first place xD

 

like... $3000 is like half of a whole-home unit. 

$3,000 doesn't being to touch one these days, that's been true since Jan 1 of this year when prices of home units went up by 35-40% due to bullshit (Money grab) EPA regs.... And they weren't cheap to start with.

Speaking of AC, noted my car's condensation drain line is apparently stopped up, it has water coming from around the passenger door from the body so I'll have to go under and see why it's plugged, I'm thinking it's most likely from a dirt-dobber doing their dobbing-thing.

Those pests can cause alot of headaches with what they do.
Had to replace the entire ignition switch on my zero turn once because the keyhole got dobbed and it make a huge mess of the internals.

[vetali]

Mini splits are dirt cheap. You only need 3-4 to cool a reasonably sized house. If you went that route it'd be cheaper than 3k excluding labor.

[Beerzerker]

Same basic thing as a window unit which are relatively cheap themselves..... For now.

I'm talking about a full central air setup which these days can run from about $18,000 and up due to the price increase.

That's what I have here but ATM I also have three window units as backups in case of problems with the central air which, I am having ATM.
I installed the last one on July 4th and it was fairly easy to do and works fine. Sealing it up so no water/rain and bugs can get in is the pain about it because on the bottom of these at the window frame you can't really get in that area to seal it with any amount of ease but I did figure out a way to do it.

I'll be under the car tomorrow working on it's drain and maybe that's all it is - A dobber induced problem which is easy to fix aside from just getting to it.

[Bitter]

11 hours ago, vetali said:

Ford is terrible at providing locations on 3rd party repair sites. I was trying to find a cylinder head temp sensor on a 5.0. Had to google it.

 

Gonna be great when these newer cars start hitting independent shops. Had an Accord a long time ago that couldn't communicate with the integrated driver support system. I forget the code, but the diagnostic was "substitute known good multipurpose camera unit, if that doesn't work then substitute radar unit".

 

Like, those parts collectively are $3k before aiming which we charge 1.5 hours for each. Luckily I had a radar unit from a CRV in the warranty return parts pile. Same connector so I plugged it in and I could communicate, just had a bunch of codes for incorrect model radar.

I see that all the time in trouble shooting flow for some cars. GM had that for a Spark with a ABS code that was being set by a bad trans, still not entirely sure but I think the CVT was jerking and freaking out the speed sensor and linear acceleration sensor causing a logic fail "this can't be doing that, module must be broken". GM trouble shooting was to replace the ABS module, if it's still broken then replace the TCM. Like excuse me, you can't return used electrical parts how is this troubleshooting? Once it's plugged in it's yours, especially if you programmed it. But sure let's throw over $1k in hardware at a car and just cross fingers. That's just such a screw you move and so infeasible to present to a client like.... I feel like a douche telling people but I'm very careful to pin the blame on manufacturer like "hey, these are their steps and they made the car BUT I went off script and made sure the module has power, ground, and that they can pass power under load, there's no visible issues with the connectors or wire harness, it passed the wiggle test, etc." They paid for an hour of testing and they get it so they can have the same level of confidence I have. If I'm not confident I make it 100% transparent to them that I'm uncertain about what the outcome will be. It's not a fun conversation to have but it has to be done to keep a good reputation.

[Bitter]

14 hours ago, vetali said:

Ford is terrible at providing locations on 3rd party repair sites. I was trying to find a cylinder head temp sensor on a 5.0. Had to google it.

Dude their own information is pretty sucky too. C1117 Joint Connector 1 points to it should be under the cowl near the PCM and wiper motor by the big rubber boot (big green thing), there's nothing there in the engine bay. I'm starting to think it must be inside the cabin under the dash somewhere?? I think I'm going to adjust my diag strategy and just check the wire resistances between the ABS and PCM and DLC and PCM to see if there's high resistance somewhere before I dig in further since clearly digging has gotten me nowhere productive yet. If the HSCAN checks out with low resistances down the individual wires then my fault likely lies at the PCM even thought the water was in the connector for trans stuff. If that's the case I'll pull it, open it, and see if I can see damage to confirm things better.

This is the 2nd time we've had it in, first time was a brake issue that ended up being someone put oil in the brake fluid and it caused a caliper to bind up and the master to hold pressure on the other side caliper after we bled the system, but we warned them before we replace the caliper that there was oil in the fluid and literally anything was fair game on the brake system so they weren't too pissed when we called back about the master. Unhappy but not mad at us.

[vetali]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

I see that all the time in trouble shooting flow for some cars. GM had that for a Spark with a ABS code that was being set by a bad trans, still not entirely sure but I think the CVT was jerking and freaking out the speed sensor and linear acceleration sensor causing a logic fail "this can't be doing that, module must be broken". GM trouble shooting was to replace the ABS module, if it's still broken then replace the TCM. Like excuse me, you can't return used electrical parts how is this troubleshooting? Once it's plugged in it's yours, especially if you programmed it. But sure let's throw over $1k in hardware at a car and just cross fingers. That's just such a screw you move and so infeasible to present to a client like.... I feel like a douche telling people but I'm very careful to pin the blame on manufacturer like "hey, these are their steps and they made the car BUT I went off script and made sure the module has power, ground, and that they can pass power under load, there's no visible issues with the connectors or wire harness, it passed the wiggle test, etc." They paid for an hour of testing and they get it so they can have the same level of confidence I have. If I'm not confident I make it 100% transparent to them that I'm uncertain about what the outcome will be. It's not a fun conversation to have but it has to be done to keep a good reputation.

Its pretty much why I avoid diagnostics through Honda's flow chart.... but they are sometimes useful because the charts are constantly updated with common failures. So the first steps, or weird steps will give you a hit that they're the most common. That can mislead you though, especially on misfires on the 1.5t. They want you to check everything, even valve adjustment before condemning the injectors that are the problem 90% of the time.

 

14 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Dude their own information is pretty sucky too. C1117 Joint Connector 1 points to it should be under the cowl near the PCM and wiper motor by the big rubber boot (big green thing), there's nothing there in the engine bay. I'm starting to think it must be inside the cabin under the dash somewhere?? I think I'm going to adjust my diag strategy and just check the wire resistances between the ABS and PCM and DLC and PCM to see if there's high resistance somewhere before I dig in further since clearly digging has gotten me nowhere productive yet. If the HSCAN checks out with low resistances down the individual wires then my fault likely lies at the PCM even thought the water was in the connector for trans stuff. If that's the case I'll pull it, open it, and see if I can see damage to confirm things better.

This is the 2nd time we've had it in, first time was a brake issue that ended up being someone put oil in the brake fluid and it caused a caliper to bind up and the master to hold pressure on the other side caliper after we bled the system, but we warned them before we replace the caliper that there was oil in the fluid and literally anything was fair game on the brake system so they weren't too pissed when we called back about the master. Unhappy but not mad at us

Yeah I don't think its under the cowl. I think its behind the dash. Contextually, there is connectors for the APP and brake pedal right next to it.

[Bitter]

31 minutes ago, vetali said:

Yeah I don't think its under the cowl. I think its behind the dash. Contextually, there is connectors for the APP and brake pedal right next to it.

Good eye, I hadn't really noticed that. I saw it but I didn't think of it that way. I wonder if AllData says the APP and Brake are in the engine bay since they're on the engine bay diagram...

[vetali]

15 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Good eye, I hadn't really noticed that. I saw it but I didn't think of it that way. I wonder if AllData says the APP and Brake are in the engine bay since they're on the engine bay diagram...

Possibly. Then you go to the dash harness view and it'll be on there too, but looks like its in the engine bay or something dumb lol.

 

For as much as I complain about Honda service info, their location diagrams are awesome.... just its under the electrical diagrams.

 

[Bitter]

32 minutes ago, vetali said:

Possibly. Then you go to the dash harness view and it'll be on there too, but looks like its in the engine bay or something dumb lol.

 

For as much as I complain about Honda service info, their location diagrams are awesome.... just its under the electrical diagrams.

 

I looked in a completely unrelated location and found this which links back to the engine bay diagram. Not confusing at all having a connector with a 1000 series number IN THE CABIN. Thanks Ford!

[Bitter]

Dried out over the weekend, starts today, it's getting wire harness repin and PCM recommendation. Problem dried up with the water so I'm reasonably confident.

[Bitter]

Heaven help me if this tray goes missing lol camera sensor does not like that color.

[vetali]

On 7/17/2023 at 12:26 PM, Bitter said:

Heaven help me if this tray goes missing lol camera sensor does not like that color.

Trade?

 

[vetali]

 

These things are not fun to time with only the exhaust cam having cam locks... which is the cam that is neutral at tdc 1. Put your front guide on, vice grips lightly around the crank sprocket to hold the chain on, zip tie on the exhaust sprocket, put your first tensioner guide on, then the second tensioner guide, raise vehicle, zero offset wrench on the intake cam, rotate cam while pushing tensioner guide in, swing up the 2nd guide, then with your third arm bolt on the tensioner itself. Then you really hate yourself doing the valve adjustment on cylinder 1 exhaust.

 

I can do the old K series in my sleep with cam locks. The DI ones suck and you have to remove the HPFP pedestal to properly do the actuator. The only place to get a wrench on the camshaft is near the reluctor on the opposite side. Hollow camshaft so its easy to break. So you have to remove it and put it in a vice with blocks of wood.

[Bitter]

Is it just the camera messing with it or are those lobes looking rough?

[vetali]

1 minute ago, Bitter said:

Is it just the camera messing with it or are those lobes looking rough?

I think its the varnish throwing off the camera. The wear surface was acceptable to me... about normal for modern DI engines. That had 100k on it, sounded like a machine gun kelly dis track while engine braking. Several valves were making a lot of noise. Dude that owned it was religious by the maintenance minder... Timing chain half a tooth stretched and tensioner would rattle every start. VCT actuator had about a half a degree of play when locked. Thing was rough, and he was going by what Honda told him for maintenance.

[Bitter]

9 hours ago, vetali said:

I think its the varnish throwing off the camera. The wear surface was acceptable to me... about normal for modern DI engines. That had 100k on it, sounded like a machine gun kelly dis track while engine braking. Several valves were making a lot of noise. Dude that owned it was religious by the maintenance minder... Timing chain half a tooth stretched and tensioner would rattle every start. VCT actuator had about a half a degree of play when locked. Thing was rough, and he was going by what Honda told him for maintenance.

Yikes

[Radium_Angel]

That's quite unfortunate for Honda's reputation for reliability.

[vetali]

58 minutes ago, Radium_Angel said:

That's quite unfortunate for Honda's reputation for reliability.

Thats long in the past. Now you have BMW and Porsche out ranking Honda in reliability rankings on consumer reports.

[Radium_Angel]

16 minutes ago, vetali said:

BMW and Porsche

That's pretty crazy. I mean I can get that Honda (and Toyota too?) can get lazy and lose ranking, but BMW? They've never been a reliable car (or at least cheap to fix) what changed for them and Porsche?

[Levent]

I find this intriguing. I honestly wouldnt mind an medium to low range MX5.

https://arstechnica.com/cars/2023/07/the-next-mazda-mx-5-miata-might-be-an-electric-vehicle/