Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Radium_Angel]

14 hours ago, OhioYJ said:

The ID is the issue. 1" ID hoses are a lot more common. It's not a huge amount larger. What if you used something like heat shrink on the roll first, then used some 1" ID hose?  I'm not real familiar with mechanics of a typewriter. Does this hose actually need to grip really good? You could put some silicone between the roll, and heat shrink, then again between the heat shrink and hose to "glue" everything together. However silicone is pretty easy to clean off, and I would consider not permanent.

I am strongly considering using heat shrink tubing. The current platen had solidified (in effect) and become hard plastic instead of the soft rubber it was when new, and as such, the paper won't grip and the carriage return (to advance the paper to the next line) doesn't do anything when advanced.

It needs to have "grip" like soft rubber (like a car door molding) Does heat shrink tubing come in soft "grippy" styles?

[Vonrottes]

GMC center caps for Camaro wheels

Now I just need to get 2" drop blocks, rear brembos brackets, and once I get my powder coating stuff set up I need to redo the calipers to get rid of the Chevrolet on them

[Monkey Dust]

On 7/5/2023 at 12:11 AM, WallacEngineering said:

Oh man... The new Aston Martin DB12 is here...

The perfect elegant supercar, and to this day STILL the supercar I would actually buy if I actually had the money.

 

 

It does look stunning, doesn't it? And they've sorted the interior too. Sadly no V12 though

[WallacEngineering]

35 minutes ago, Monkey Dust said:

It does look stunning, doesn't it? And they've sorted the interior too. Sadly no V12 though

Unfortunately there may not be a V12 due to emissions these days but I would be quite happy with the power on offer regardless.

[Monkey Dust]

22 minutes ago, WallacEngineering said:

Unfortunately there may not be a V12 due to emissions these days but I would be quite happy with the power on offer regardless.

Apparently the V12 is going to live on in something, I guess in whatever replaces the DBS.

[Bitter]

11 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

I am strongly considering using heat shrink tubing. The current platen had solidified (in effect) and become hard plastic instead of the soft rubber it was when new, and as such, the paper won't grip and the carriage return (to advance the paper to the next line) doesn't do anything when advanced.

It needs to have "grip" like soft rubber (like a car door molding) Does heat shrink tubing come in soft "grippy" styles?

I suppose you could try coating the shrink with something like spray rubber (plasti-dip, etc) that might have the right texture.

 

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/38784302

Actually I think this is probably close to the sizes you need. 24.4 ID and close to 32mm OD and it's silicone so it's somewhat grippy to paper and fairly durable but it may be too soft. Look for hose that's 1 inch ID and 1 1/4 OD.

[Bitter]

Why Mazda, why?

[Radium_Angel]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Why Mazda, why?

They poach a UI designer from MS perhaps?

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

They poach a UI designer from MS perhaps?

Nah, the start menu isn't hidden like this start button lol.

[vetali]

5 hours ago, Bitter said:

Why Mazda, why?

Now I know where Honda got that idea from.

[OhioYJ]

On 7/10/2023 at 9:48 AM, Radium_Angel said:

I am strongly considering using heat shrink tubing. The current platen had solidified (in effect) and become hard plastic instead of the soft rubber it was when new, and as such, the paper won't grip and the carriage return (to advance the paper to the next line) doesn't do anything when advanced.

It needs to have "grip" like soft rubber (like a car door molding) Does heat shrink tubing come in soft "grippy" styles?

 

I meant use the heat shrink first, as 1" ID hose will be slightly too large. Use the heat shrink to take up the slop. At least that was my thought. 

 

They make different types of heat shrink. I've found generally the marine stuff with the glue inside tends to be "softer" (grippier) on the outside than the regular stuff. 

[Bitter]

So how's everyone else's day going? It was THAT stuck. Those IPA diamond wheels absolutely fly through sheet steel tho.

[vetali]

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

So how's everyone else's day going? It was THAT stuck. Those IPA diamond wheels absolutely fly through sheet steep tho.

Sheared a compressor shaft off of a new 3000 dollar hybrid A/C compressor on Monday... mint.

[Bitter]

56 minutes ago, vetali said:

Sheared a compressor shaft off of a new 3000 dollar hybrid A/C compressor on Monday... mint.

[vetali]

19 minutes ago, Bitter said:

NSFL

 

Set up many just by one dugga (its only like 10ftlb spec). Had to reshim a few times to get the gap right. Put the new nut on and it didn't like it.

[Bitter]

51 minutes ago, vetali said:

NSFL

 

Set up many just by one dugga (its only like 10ftlb spec). Had to reshim a few times to get the gap right. Put the new nut on and it didn't like it.

If it's any consolation I spent many hours too many getting the gas tank job on that crown vic done today. Had to cut the tank, then the strap bolt clips in the frame were bent up and away at an angle so I had to find some full thread 3/8th 16 bolts to make studs, install the studs, run nuts down to pull the studs straight down to the frame, etc etc. On top of having to epoxy repair someones old epoxy repair on an evap T fitting. Whole time I'm like 'welp this is another hour of my life gone forever' each hour that it's taking me. Thankfully they're good customers we've known for a long time and I was able to root cause the fuel tank failure to a bad gas cap so it shouldn't happen again.

[vetali]

26 minutes ago, Bitter said:

If it's any consolation I spent many hours too many getting the gas tank job on that crown vic done today. Had to cut the tank, then the strap bolt clips in the frame were bent up and away at an angle so I had to find some full thread 3/8th 16 bolts to make studs, install the studs, run nuts down to pull the studs straight down to the frame, etc etc. On top of having to epoxy repair someones old epoxy repair on an evap T fitting. Whole time I'm like 'welp this is another hour of my life gone forever' each hour that it's taking me. Thankfully they're good customers we've known for a long time and I was able to root cause the fuel tank failure to a bad gas cap so it shouldn't happen again.

I think its my biggest f-up in my career. I did back a caravan into another car once. To be fair, the customers complaint was intermittent brake. It failed while backing up (was a bad master and I was riding the brakes backing up) and I slammed into a Nissan Sentra that already looked like it rolled off a cliff... so I got lucky. Body shop guy traded fixing that for an alternator job on a v6 escape. Anyone thats done one of those knows I got screwed on that deal lol.

 

Was it just super rusty? The tank looked in good shape.

[Bitter]

48 minutes ago, vetali said:

I think its my biggest f-up in my career. I did back a caravan into another car once. To be fair, the customers complaint was intermittent brake. It failed while backing up (was a bad master and I was riding the brakes backing up) and I slammed into a Nissan Sentra that already looked like it rolled off a cliff... so I got lucky. Body shop guy traded fixing that for an alternator job on a v6 escape. Anyone thats done one of those knows I got screwed on that deal lol.

 

Was it just super rusty? The tank looked in good shape.

3yrs ago we did a gas tank for rust through, a few months later they had a stalling/no start after fueling, replaced a bad purge valve, then they had a won't fuel issue, replace a bad vent valve then the won't take fuel issue came back or was still present, finally found that the charcoal canister had a clump in it that would sometimes block flow when fueling, so the canister got replaced. Last week it came in for leaking gas. Found the tank collapsed and creased, leaking from the creased sheet steel in a spot about 3/4 up the tank. Tested the gas cap with my inches of water vacuum gauge, it's releasing vacuum at almost 60 inches (3.6" HG), which from what unpublished specs I can suss out it should be around 1" HG (20ish inch H20). Needs fuel tank, gas cap, and maybe a purge valve but I think we can skip that so I'll see if I can talk the boss out of it.

So I gotta transfer the tank valves from the old tank to the new tank. Everything on the fuel tank that's not the pump or filler neck parts are discontinued. We were super lucky to get the seal for the vent cut last time, the one on the tank was all ate up from rust and would not seal anymore, may have gotten the or one of the last ones in the country. So that's the part that's stuck and won't come out. Can't pry up on it too hard, you'll break the plastic. Can't get any angle to push on it from inside. Can't damage the seal or valve in any way. So I cut the tank away, deburred the edges, put it in the vice, and started using my fancy new snapon grinder to nibble away, roll up, nibble away, roll up, and so on, until the steel was thin enough to cut in with tin snips, grab the two sides, and peel the metal open like an old sardine can then get it to break and release tension, pull it open, and get the part out with the seal on it. It was super easy after that, vacuum tested the tank at just over 20" H20 for lunch hour, no leaks, go to reassemble and the old strap bolts are shitty but probably OK. Nah, can't them to grab up there. The nut is one of those threaded clips and it's bent up at an angle and I cannot get the bolt to catch and start. Other side catches, goes up some but feels bad, runs real hard. I take it own, bolt is fucked. Clip threads are OK. Ended up,  much looking, finding some full thread bolts to turn into studs, now it's super easy to get the straps up and tightened because I'll probably never have to do it ever again. 

One of those sounds fast when you read it but was slow going. Basically wasted most of a day on it.

[vetali]

4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

3yrs ago we did a gas tank for rust through, a few months later they had a stalling/no start after fueling, replaced a bad purge valve, then they had a won't fuel issue, replace a bad vent valve then the won't take fuel issue came back or was still present, finally found that the charcoal canister had a clump in it that would sometimes block flow when fueling, so the canister got replaced. Last week it came in for leaking gas. Found the tank collapsed and creased, leaking from the creased sheet steel in a spot about 3/4 up the tank. Tested the gas cap with my inches of water vacuum gauge, it's releasing vacuum at almost 60 inches (3.6" HG), which from what unpublished specs I can suss out it should be around 1" HG (20ish inch H20). Needs fuel tank, gas cap, and maybe a purge valve but I think we can skip that so I'll see if I can talk the boss out of it.

So I gotta transfer the tank valves from the old tank to the new tank. Everything on the fuel tank that's not the pump or filler neck parts are discontinued. We were super lucky to get the seal for the vent cut last time, the one on the tank was all ate up from rust and would not seal anymore, may have gotten the or one of the last ones in the country. So that's the part that's stuck and won't come out. Can't pry up on it too hard, you'll break the plastic. Can't get any angle to push on it from inside. Can't damage the seal or valve in any way. So I cut the tank away, deburred the edges, put it in the vice, and started using my fancy new snapon grinder to nibble away, roll up, nibble away, roll up, and so on, until the steel was thin enough to cut in with tin snips, grab the two sides, and peel the metal open like an old sardine can then get it to break and release tension, pull it open, and get the part out with the seal on it. It was super easy after that, vacuum tested the tank at just over 20" H20 for lunch hour, no leaks, go to reassemble and the old strap bolts are shitty but probably OK. Nah, can't them to grab up there. The nut is one of those threaded clips and it's bent up at an angle and I cannot get the bolt to catch and start. Other side catches, goes up some but feels bad, runs real hard. I take it own, bolt is fucked. Clip threads are OK. Ended up,  much looking, finding some full thread bolts to turn into studs, now it's super easy to get the straps up and tightened because I'll probably never have to do it ever again. 

One of those sounds fast when you read it but was slow going. Basically wasted most of a day on it.

Ah yeah, had those days. Its usually fuel vapor related too lol.... or Nissans. Rather work on a BMW than a Nissan.

[Bitter]

19 hours ago, vetali said:

Ah yeah, had those days. Its usually fuel vapor related too lol.... or Nissans. Rather work on a BMW than a Nissan.

Well boss had his day today, R18 starter kicked his ass. It didn't look that hard but he's very stubborn and probably did every single thing he could do the hardest way he could do it.

[vetali]

5 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Well boss had his day today, R18 starter kicked his ass. It didn't look that hard but he's very stubborn and probably did every single thing he could do the hardest way he could do it.

Pull the passenger axle and its ezpz.

 

Had a fun day, 3 cats on J series.

[bcredeur97]

 

23 hours ago, vetali said:

NSFL

-snip-

 

Set up many just by one dugga (its only like 10ftlb spec). Had to reshim a few times to get the gap right. Put the new nut on and it didn't like it.

I'm sorry but the human race has done something wrong if an A/C compressor for a car is $3000

and for $3000 it should be extremely difficult to do what you did. Actually the O.G. should of never broke in the first place xD

 

like... $3000 is like half of a whole-home unit. 

[vetali]

4 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

 

I'm sorry but the human race has done something wrong if an A/C compressor for a car is $3000

and for $3000 it should be extremely difficult to do what you did. Actually the O.G. should of never broke in the first place xD

 

like... $3000 is like half of a whole-home unit. 

I diagnose a lot of them too, not many do it. This year has been weird though. People are just bending over for A/C work. Its got a non serviceable thermal fuse on the compressor. Once it goes, or the electric motor in the compressor has an issue the system disabled. Its got about 6 feet of high voltage wiring attached to it, with a connector that will probably be on the 5090 ti.

 

I believe the electric motor part only runs when start stop is on. Was before the ages of energy storing evaporators.

 

Then pretty much all Honda vehicles in the previous gen got a warranty extension or service bulletin for compressor shaft seals. So I have been doing those non stop too. I have the CR-Vs down to 45 minutes which is recover, remove compressor, remove seal, install seal, reinstall compressor, charge.

[bcredeur97]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

I diagnose a lot of them too, not many do it. This year has been weird though. People are just bending over for A/C work. Its got a non serviceable thermal fuse on the compressor. Once it goes, or the electric motor in the compressor has an issue the system disabled. Its got about 6 feet of high voltage wiring attached to it, with a connector that will probably be on the 5090 ti.

 

I believe the electric motor part only runs when start stop is on. Was before the ages of energy storing evaporators.

 

Then pretty much all Honda vehicles in the previous gen got a warranty extension or service bulletin for compressor shaft seals. So I have been doing those non stop too. I have the CR-Vs down to 45 minutes which is recover, remove compressor, remove seal, install seal, reinstall compressor, charge.

that's nuts. Maybe on a BMW or something I would understand, but we're going a little too crazy with everyday autos. ppl won't be able to afford this stuff out of warranty  

 

..and it's not even really that great for you. I mean yeah it's work.. but it's 90% parts and 10% labor cost I'm sure. Lol. The former anyway, im sure there's decent money on the compressor shaft seals

[Bitter]

3 hours ago, vetali said:

Pull the passenger axle and its ezpz.

 

Had a fun day, 3 cats on J series.

He was pretty far into it and decided not to do that, at that point I don't think it would have helped. He finds the worst angles and directions to come at things lol and just brute forces through.