Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[vetali]

4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

For a big one, under $300. Mine was like $40 and can do 4 injectors or some sockets in it. I turned a set of used universal sockets from grimey grubby mess to looking almost brand new again. It sucked the dirt out of all the lines and details on them. I bought mine to pretty much do my own fuel injectors but then took it work and have been tossing parts in it or tools in it from time to time. Cleaned up a set of my small scrub brushes to looking brand new. You can start off with hot water but mine will heat the water up pretty hot on it's own because it's dumping 30W into about 1/2qt of cleaning solution. I usually do a 5 minute cycle on something then see if it needs more or give it a light scrub to break up anything that's been softened and put it back in for another 5. On the sockets it softened the gunk in the roll pins but I had to push it through myself, a solid plug of grease and dirt.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B07DJ23WKV/

 

I'm using this cleaning solution, sometimes a splash of something harsher we use at work to de-grease engines. Honestly you could probably just use 50/50 simple green and be OK or pinesol even, just can't be too viscous cause it'll dampen the cleaning action. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KKGRKPG/

Yeah I will look into it. How long do you run things in it usually? If I can run 3 pistons in there for 30 - 45 minutes that would save me a ton of time and I can clean sealing surfaces in the meantime.

[Bitter]

2 minutes ago, vetali said:

Yeah I will look into it. How long do you run things in it usually? If I can run 3 pistons in there for 30 - 45 minutes that would save me a ton of time and I can clean sealing surfaces in the meantime.

I did the sockets with caked on grease and gunk for about 15 minutes with one light manual scrub after 5 minutes and some soaking because I forgot and was out on a test drive. For those pistons I'd say probably yeah 30 minutes maybe? Might still need some manual work but it should take most of the crud off and soften up what's still there. You can run literally anything you want to clean through it. I had an old VW oil screen (before oil filters existed I guess) that had stuff embedded in the fine mesh and rattling around inside. I did it for 10 minutes (5 a side, it didn't all fit in my tiny one) and it came out 100% cleaned. I had only blasted the excess oil off with brake clean before putting it in. The neat thing is, it's aluminum so you're not going to damage the piston itself by running it longer. It's one of those things you buy for one thing but then you find yourself just LOOKING for things to clean with it because it does such a nice job and you want all the things cleaned so perfectly. When I'm back at work I'll pick something and do a before/after picture, maybe a socket or something really nasty gunky if we have anything laying around.

[vetali]

6 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I did the sockets with caked on grease and gunk for about 15 minutes with one light manual scrub after 5 minutes and some soaking because I forgot and was out on a test drive. For those pistons I'd say probably yeah 30 minutes maybe? Might still need some manual work but it should take most of the crud off and soften up what's still there. You can run literally anything you want to clean through it. I had an old VW oil screen (before oil filters existed I guess) that had stuff embedded in the fine mesh and rattling around inside. I did it for 10 minutes (5 a side, it didn't all fit in my tiny one) and it came out 100% cleaned. I had only blasted the excess oil off with brake clean before putting it in. The neat thing is, it's aluminum so you're not going to damage the piston itself by running it longer. It's one of those things you buy for one thing but then you find yourself just LOOKING for things to clean with it because it does such a nice job and you want all the things cleaned so perfectly. When I'm back at work I'll pick something and do a before/after picture, maybe a socket or something really nasty gunky if we have anything laying around.

I'd probably still clean the grooves manually beforehand. They usually clean better oil soaked than after with a solvent that just dries everything out. Its the face and ringlands that take forever. I will run it by management and see what they say. If not, I'll probably just buy my own.

[Bitter]

Just now, vetali said:

I'd probably still clean the grooves manually beforehand. They usually clean better oil soaked than after with a solvent that just dries everything out. Its the face and ringlands that take forever. I will run it by management and see what they say. If not, I'll probably just buy my own.

Maybe this will help?

[Radium_Angel]

12 hours ago, vetali said:

My sisters car

What is it?

[8tg]

The Impala died today, at 222,381 miles the starter fully gave out.

After a phone call and some hot hammer on starter action, it started, and was brought to my local mechanic to be used as a parts car.

I personally prefer that outcome, they have a 9th gen Impala as well and want my interior, because I have the cool black leather interior and they have the boring cloth one. I like that it will be used to help other impalas.

I literally owe this car my life in more ways than one.

I will always be reminded of it by the always present puddle it left in my garage, and the constant smell of burning oil.

[Vonrottes]

Started ordering parts to install Camaro SS calipers on my Sonoma

Placed the order for the brackets from a fellow S10 owner today, up next I gotta get 2wd Blazer spindles/hubs, C6 z06 rotors, and a new set of tires for the 19" wheels.

And I gotta get everything done before August

[vetali]

8 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

What is it?

Honda Crosstour

 

Older sister has a Passport, along with myself. I have trained them well.

[Beerzerker]

Another update on the "A"...

Got the brake lights working and fixed the Ooogah horn so it's working now.
Both fixes were as you'd expect, simple and those issues are out of the way.
Only safety related thing now is to get the windshield wiper working and it's ready to road test.
I'm going to take it's final checks in stages instead of just going for the test drive so when it's finally out on the road I'll have an idea of what to expect from it, working through these stages so if there are ANY problems that may affect it I may be able to catch them before it's road tested and breaks down or worse.....
Esp on the "worse" part of it and will be done when road conditions are good instead of like it is today (Raining).

[Vonrottes]

Time to start cleaning up the calipers.

Brackets are in the mail, still need to order rotors, pads, spindles and whatever else I might need to replace

 

Also went ahead and added some preload on the coilovers since it was sitting maybe 1" from the polyurethane bump stops... Made for a very rough ride. But now it looks like a monster truck

[Bitter]

Not only will it ride better but it'll handle better too since the suspension can actually move and do work instead of just compressing to the bump stop and doing nothing. Handling and ride quality are well worth the jabs from people bitching that your own car isn't low enough for their tastes. "waddayamean it's on coilovers, it's too high to be on coilovers, why didn't you just get springs if you're not gonna slam it"

[Beerzerker]

2 hours ago, Vonrottes said:

Also went ahead and added some preload on the coilovers since it was sitting maybe 1" from the polyurethane bump stops... Made for a very rough ride. But now it looks like a monster truck

Even with that it still doesn't sit as high as mine does but then again mine is a 4x4 which, BTW I need to do a little of this kind of work on it too.



Get it like you want it to be and don't worry about the nay-sayers, they can look the other way or even walk if they don't like it.




 

[Vonrottes]

Mannnn sounds like you guys have dealt with 2wd Colorado owners and ALL Honda owners

 

S10 group chat has just been making fun of how the designs of aftermarket control arms are just awful.

The umi lca built specifically for coils, the spohn like I have and several others "name brand" have the bump stops stuck on top of a 2" tall pedestal and call it "stock suspension travel" there's a few that use a bump stops screwed directly to the tune but most are questionable quality.

 

But that's why I'm ordering drop spindles, should put it close to where it belongs, and probably at some point redo the whole front suspension, I think ridetech makes a nice lca and coilover set.

 

 

Just remembered before August I need to make a permanent mount and scoop for the transmission cooler, thinking a Sy/ty esque scoop

 

Kinda like this, but not quite that large.

[Bitter]

Ha, I'm running *almost* the same trans cooler on my Toyota.

[Vonrottes]

33 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Ha, I'm running *almost* the same trans cooler on my Toyota.

Looks like it might be the next size up

I think mine is the 14500

[Bitter]

1 minute ago, Vonrottes said:

Looks like it might be the next size up

I think mine is the 14500

eBay listed it as off a full size Caddy sedan from the 90's so like a 4T80 with a Northstar probably, I've seen the same cooler on 1500 pickups with the 4L80 and tow package too. Nicely designed cooler, robust, strong, and has good cooling without being terribly restrictive.

[Vonrottes]

56 minutes ago, Bitter said:

eBay listed it as off a full size Caddy sedan from the 90's so like a 4T80 with a Northstar probably, I've seen the same cooler on 1500 pickups with the 4L80 and tow package too. Nicely designed cooler, robust, strong, and has good cooling without being terribly restrictive.

Ahhh lol mines the actual B&M stacked plate

[Beerzerker]

Here we go.
I took the A out for a short test drive.....

I can't say it was terrible but a few issues became apparent I'll have to deal with but it's nothing on a major scale at all.

Brakes worked perfectly and the trans did the same, the engine itself ran OK but could be better of course and I believe alot of it is a carburator problem(s). However the engine did perform well enough I could have driven it much further than I did but at the same time I didn't want to push my luck either so kept it to a short jog down the street and back.
Power from the engine was OK but then again these aren't known to be powerhouses anyway, sounds like it has a bit of a miss but when it's under load (Driving the car) it's fine and the engine doesn't seem to mind things as they are now, plus it really doesn't have that skipping feel while driving but definitely sounds like it's skipping while just sitting in place and running.

However another issue did serve to "Cover" this feel if it's there so I'll have to look over the ignition anyway and make sure it's got fire consistently across all plugs.

One thing I did get figured out is why it was so damned hard to start when it was cold and now it fires right up even after sitting overnight. The owner did say when it arrived at the shop he wanted new tires on it but later changed his mind and said he'd get that done elsewhere, which he's going to have to or it will ride like a bucking bronco because the tires just from it sitting for so long are flat spotted, that making for a nice-n-shakey ride.

Not terrible but as if you had slid the tires from an emergency stop somewhere.

Not to mention all the shaking made the battery come loose and I had that arcing around my feet because the pos terminal was bumping against the brake linkage rod.....
The battery hold down didn't hold so will need to rework/redo that part to make sure it stays where it's supposed to no matter how shakey it gets.

This was the thing that may have covered up the skipping feel if it was truly skipping and not alot I can do about that due to the owner's decision about the tires so I'll do the best I can and once done, let it go back to them.

So - It's first outing in about 35-40 years showed it's not that bad off at all but at the same time will need more done to make it "Right", some of that out of my hands but hey - At least it CAN be driven on the road.  

[Vonrottes]

Got the rotors, hubs and pads today in the mail.
Going to Jegs Thursday to pick up the spindles and then this weekend gonna be a fun time getting it all put on the truck.

Just think these comparison pictures are funny.

 

Stock wheel / new rotor

 

Stock brakes / New wheels

 

and the new rotors / wheels

 

 

Still kind of undecided on tires.
I know I'm getting BFG G-force Comp2 plus... but if I go with 245/40s I'll keep the same 26" diameter

Or I could go with the 245/50s to fill out the wheel wells a bit more but I know for a fact those will rub the frame while turning or I could go with 245/45s as a compromise, just not sure if they will rub or not.

[Bitter]

Who installed all the swirl marks on those wheels?

[Vonrottes]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Who installed all the swirl marks on those wheels?

If I had to guess... The old guy I bought them off of in northern PA they have been sitting in my garage since 2019 and definitely need to be cleaned 

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, Vonrottes said:

If I had to guess... The old guy I bought them off of in northern PA they have been sitting in my garage since 2019 and definitely need to be cleaned 

Nothing some paint can't fix!

[Vonrottes]

20 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Nothing some paint can't fix!

Ack no!

I specifically sought out the polished version over the "silver" painted ones

 

Some polishing should bring the clear back on these no problem.

[Bitter]

21 minutes ago, Vonrottes said:

Some polishing should bring the clear back on these no problem.

Ehhhh the clear looks stripped on the swirl marked wheel and there's some 'termite trails' under the clear on the other wheel and what looks like clear de-lamination. You'd probably need to get them stripped, polished, and re-cleared to look 100% again. For all that, I'd just paint them something that looks good with your truck.

[8tg]

Inconsistent rpm when applying throttle, slight lag when accelerating from a stop, low rpm when at idle in drive.

Symptoms of poor fuel supply right?

I think the fuel filter on this 30 year old car is original, I’m gonna replace it and all the lines anyway but I want to make sure I’ve got the right idea here.

 

For context this is very minor, this isn’t a deathly low idle rpm, the rpm variation when applying throttle is very slight, but it’s there.