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3D Printing - Models, Tutorials, and Discussion

Delons
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For someone that works with micro controllers/electronics a 3D printer is where its at I was pissed at how expensive project boxes were and you still needed to do a lot of modding to fit your project, now with a 3D printer I can pull down one of thousands of files already out there or take one and remix it to fit your needs and of course you can create your own from scratch. My machine is heavily modded and prints like a boss if your into hobbies this is a no brainer purchase and I disagree with the notion that shapeways is a cheaper solution I used them and paid over $100 for two parts that I needed in Nylon I now can print that for mere dollars. I say have at it get into the game its only going to get better!

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

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On 4/25/2015 at 3:52 AM, 10thmtnarty said:

Alright thanks.  Trying to build my own version of this

 

You could surely print corners or frames out of any color filament and use flat acylic panels to complete

My daily driver: The Wrath of Red: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen TR4 1950x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA621P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASRock x399 Taichi / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / Samsung 512GB 970 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor x3

 

My technology Rig: The wizard: OS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen R7 1800x 3.95MHz / Corsair H110i / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / ASUS CH 6 / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / HP 10GB Single Port Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-E 10GBe NIC / 512GB 960 pro M.2 / ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 STRIX 8GB / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor HP Monitor

 

My I don't use RigOS Windows 10 home edition / CPU Ryzen 1600x 3.85GHz / Cooler Master MasterAir MA620P Twin-Tower RGB CPU Air Cooler / PSU Thermaltake Toughpower 750watt / MSI x370 Gaming Pro Carbon / Gskill Flare X 32GB DDR4 3200Mhz / Samsung PM961 256GB M.2 PCIe Internal SSDEVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti SSC GAMING / Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor

 

My NAS: The storage miser: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / CPU Intel i7 6700 / Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 Watt 80 Plus / ASUS Maximus viii Hero / 32GB Gskill RipJaw DDR4 3200Mhz / HP Mellanox ConnectX-2 10 GbE PCI-e G2 Dual SFP+ Ported Ethernet HCA NIC / 9 Drives total 29TB - 1 4TB seagate parity - 7 4TB WD Red data - 1 1TB laptop drive data - and 2 240GB Sandisk SSD's cache / Headless

 

Why did I buy this server: OS unRAID v. 6.9.0-beta25 / Dell R710 enterprise server with dual xeon E5530 / 48GB ecc ddr3 / Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA w/ LSI 9211-8i P20 IT / 4 450GB sas drives / headless

 

Just another server: OS Proxmox VE / Dell poweredge R410

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  • 2 months later...

Is there a crash course for dummies on 3d printers?  I know nothing about it and would like to buy one, however I don't know the first thing about them.  What do I look for in a printer?

 

My current goal is to print this out for my hotas.

 

Are there any content creators you guys would recommend I learn from?  LTT hasn't covered 3d printers all that much

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On-Ear - Koss KPH30iCL Grado - Koss KPH30iCL Yaxi - Koss KPH40 Yaxi

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I just started my largest print. I've done some prints of about a day, but not only were those downloaded designed and proven to be fine, but it was also 'just' a day. Now I have a single piece that is supposed to take 51 hours. And that's just 1 of 2 pieces, because the other one is like 70 hours. Which also needs to be glued together, because it's so big.

 

I designed it a month ago, but I was a little to enthusiastic about thicker walls, so the print would have been like 2 kilo's. So I reduced a lot and got it down to a little over a kilo. Still a lot, but you know, it's for a good cause.

Btw it's a big box made to hold individual deckboxes + 3 maps to play on, which I also designed myself (the boxes that is), it's gonna be a massive space saver for taking it with me.

 

My custom deckbox with custom resin printed mini's. The lid has a system to hold it in place, it works really well.20220524_153313.thumb.jpg.cc25e6e2b197dbb85c6895419c8d6d1d.jpg\\

 

And here is the design for the large box, it will hold maps in the long small gap, and 12 boxes in the front. Both using the same lid design. Printing it in 2 parts with some cutouts to get a good fit. I probably have to sand it a bit, because what I cut out from the top part, was added to the bottom with no changes. But I rather sand a bit, than having a too loose fit.

 

1590107460_Screenshot2022-07-05170230.thumb.jpg.8de7fd3d2e2cbd8e178411eae5df771f.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Sometimes a project comes along at work and I'm reminded just how cool a job I have.....I realize this isn't technically hobbyist level, but it's fun to see how far 3D printing has come, from rapid prototyping and test pieces to full on production level automation.  

 

Now I just have to figure out how to fit this in my garage.

 

This is a show system designed and built(being built) by Calvary Robotics in NY.  

image.thumb.jpeg.c2d62520479460a4271b56df47d2a8f9.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.92d57ff405f19676e82922b628300183.jpeg

 

 

 

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How should I prepare my Creality glass bed for use with Duramic PLA+? I’m having tons of adhesion and warping issues.

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Hey,

 

I run an Ender 3 Pro, The Hotend (In between bowden tube and nozzle) keeps blocking up with filament, starving the nozzle and backing up the extruding arm. It keeps killing my prints, I've replaced the extruder COMPELTELY and the nozzle, can anybody help?

 

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4 hours ago, ImBadAtNamingThings said:

How should I prepare my Creality glass bed for use with Duramic PLA+? I’m having tons of adhesion and warping issues.

Bed Levelling, nothing else matters than bed levelling. If you can, also get a magnetic bed, the bed material is insanely good.

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  • 1 month later...
On 10/5/2022 at 3:30 PM, ImBadAtNamingThings said:

How should I prepare my Creality glass bed for use with Duramic PLA+? I’m having tons of adhesion and warping issues.

On extreme cases, if you've got the glass bed and things aren't adhering properly, you can go to a craft store and pick up one of those kid's glue sticks.  Rub a thin coat of it on your glass bed right before you start the print.  Just make sure you clean it off afterwards.  I haven't had to use this method often, but the rare times it's needed, it's a lifesaver.  

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X  | Motherboard: ASROCK B450 pro4 | RAM: 2x16GB  | GPU: MSI NVIDIA RTX 2060 | Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S | SSD: Samsung 980 Evo 1T 

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  • 2 months later...
18 hours ago, explosivetnt said:

What are your thoughts/experience/problems with ender 5 S1?

(I am merely going off observation, and do not have any direct experience with the subject machine, only it's e3 s1 pro little brother)

 

Ender 5 seems to be a slightly overpriced E3 S1 pro, as the only thing it seemingly does out of the box better is faster print speeds. The build volume is also smaller than the S1 plus for still more money. S1's are capable of around 150mm/s printing speeds with the sonic pad, or klipper on an external device, and most of them come with a PEI bed which is superior over the PC bed provided. 

 

On top of that, you have the Bambu lab P1P which has a (if only slightly) bigger PEI build plate, but offers potentially even more speed if that's your thing, and add-on accessories and models for side panels to enclose it. Fore a CoreXY printer between $500-750, I'd probably be looking more towards the P1P.

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On 1/27/2023 at 3:14 PM, TVwazhere said:

(I am merely going off observation, and do not have any direct experience with the subject machine, only it's e3 s1 pro little brother)

 

Ender 5 seems to be a slightly overpriced E3 S1 pro, as the only thing it seemingly does out of the box better is faster print speeds. The build volume is also smaller than the S1 plus for still more money. S1's are capable of around 150mm/s printing speeds with the sonic pad, or klipper on an external device, and most of them come with a PEI bed which is superior over the PC bed provided. 

 

On top of that, you have the Bambu lab P1P which has a (if only slightly) bigger PEI build plate, but offers potentially even more speed if that's your thing, and add-on accessories and models for side panels to enclose it. Fore a CoreXY printer between $500-750, I'd probably be looking more towards the P1P.

There have been some changes in plans, plus the speed wasn't exactly what I was looking for in the first place. 

The current idea would require something that could deal with a rather large filament size inconsistency and ideally print with high resolution and precision, but then again the budget isn't infinite..

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16 minutes ago, explosivetnt said:

deal with a rather large filament size inconsistency

What filament are you buying that has large inconsistent sizing? ±0.05mm is common from what I've seen, with ±0.02mm - 0.03mm being the standard. 

"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX550M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

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8 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

What filament are you buying that has large inconsistent sizing?

The idea is not to do that. As a material specialist, it pains me to no end when I see a perfectly good, clearly marked, thermoplastic polymer part without much filler material being thrown away simply because no recycler is ready to take them. So the idea would be to extrude my own, which at the prices I'd be working with, most likely result in filament with the size tolerance being somewhere around +-0.2mm.

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