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Gtx 1060 6gb or 3gb?

MinkHD
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Ok. So. I made a post in build guides about my £650 gaming pc build. I made a build on PCPP and was reccomended to get the 6gb which was only £200 at the time or on sale rather than the 3gb that i had in my list. However i didn’t know the card was on sale and took my time not knowing it would go back up in price. Now it is and i’m still deciding. Should i sacrifice a few parts in my build to cheaper ones for the gtx 1060 6gb variant? Or is the price difference not as much as the performance. I have purchased a case but i am also sill looking for some cheap, reliable ddr4 8gb ram (preferable 1 8gb and not 2x 4gb) and a reliable 500w psu for expandibility. 

 

Thanks for everyone who replies to this in advance

 

oh and the pcpp list is here: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/Hj48f8

 

also if you could reccomend any cards that are on sale that would be great. I am looking for one that can run 1080p 60fps. In most AAA titles and around 100+ in Overwatch, CsGo and 60+ in Warframe. Thanks. 

 

 

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6gb card is for the best 

CPU: 6700K Case: Corsair Air 740 CPU Cooler: H110i GTX Storage: 2x250gb SSD 960gb SSD PSU: Corsair 1200watt GPU: EVGA 1080ti FTW3 RAM: 16gb DDR4 

Other Stuffs: Red sleeved cables, White LED lighting 2 noctua fans on cpu cooler and Be Quiet PWM fans on case.

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I still need to get ram and a psu so. 630 i am not going to get a psu and ram for 20. I am only getting 128gb ssd i am only using it to boot windows. I have a 2tb hdd that i own. Also i dont have that much to spend. I’ll just use the stock cooler as i dont plan on overclocking. 650 is my budget for all parts. I’ll try the new mobo. The 1500X has the best clock speed and thread count for me so i’ll go with that.  

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The 6gb is worth if you are running AAA on heavier settings. At 1080p, without ultra settings (ex: witcher, gta V, etc) you can get away with 3gb
Still, 6gb is better value for the money imo

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I don't think spending for the extra 10% performance, and double the VRAM is worth it, especially if it's like $40-60 more than the 3GB, especially on 1080p. You're better off spending that extra money on more SSD storage, or other stuff.

 

You'll run out of horsepower before you run out of VRAM on 1080p@60, on most titles.

 

Click here to claim your free Linus plushie.

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If i’m just planning on storing windows on my ssd and everything else on my hdd is 120gb fine?

 

how long roughly till i would (hypothetically) run out of vram only playing 1080p with lowering some settings to medium

 

also can anyone link a reliable psu 500w? Thanks for all the help!

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Coming from somebody who was BOTH the 6gb 1060 AND the 3gb 1060 AND the 3gb 780ti:

19 minutes ago, Fillypino Pride said:

I don't think spending for the extra 10% performance, and double the VRAM is worth it, especially if it's like $40-60 more than the 3GB, especially on 1080p. You're better off spending that extra money on more SSD storage, or other stuff.

 

You'll run out of horsepower before you run out of VRAM on 1080p@60, on most titles.

 

This is NOT true!!!

The 3gb WILL saturate it's 3gb vram. Absolutely. And the consiquences are DREADFUL:

The 6gb does have a few more Cuda cores, so it gets maybe 3-5 more FPS. However that is not the issue with the 3gb.

On AAA games, things that look super pretty, or heavily modded Skyrim and Fallout ect, you will run out of VRam. And that is far worse than low frame rates. 

Steam SAYS that you're getting 50 - 60 fps, your GPU monitor SAYS that you're GPU is only running at ~80%...

Except your screen is more stuttery than an overheating Xbox. And it's not a low frame rate kind of stutter either, it's much much worse. It's sickening. It's nausea inducing. It hurts your eyes. It makes games completely unenjoyable. Rise of the Tomb raider? Can't play it. Witcher 3? If you turn it down (*cries*). 

And this is all on 1080p

Heed my warning... get the 6gb... Don't make the same mistake I did.

 

As for the SSD:

If all you can afford is the 120gb after the rest of the system, I'd recommend waiting until you can afford a bigger one. I find that after putting my Steam Library, music, pictures, and videos on my 4tb HDD array, my 256gb SSD fells a little bit small. It's amazing, after formatting, SSD over provisioning, installing windows, installing a few programs, saving a few Eclipse project here and there, filling up your downloads folder a bit... The space disappears. I'd say that 256gb is definitely enough, but don't go any lower than that. Save up a bit longer and then spend ~ $80 on a 256gb ;)

 

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16 minutes ago, MinkHD said:

If i’m just planning on storing windows on my ssd and everything else on my hdd is 120gb fine?

 

how long roughly till i would (hypothetically) run out of vram only playing 1080p with lowering some settings to medium

 

also can anyone link a reliable psu 500w? Thanks for all the help!

And for the PSU, anything that says 80+ Bronze on the side or higher will be fine. People on this forum like to get their panties in a huuuugggee knot about how "If you don't have a $150 PSU it's gonna nuke your system guaranteed". Trust me. It won't. 99.9% of Walmart PC's run great on $15 Chinese PSU's for 8, 9, 10 years. If you get one that's made by a name brand AND is built to the manufacturing tolerances of any efficiency standard, you're gonna be super good to go.

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Thanks haha. xD my current pc runs off a chinese psu and hasn’t given me any issues as of yet. Only it has an apu so the graphics isn’t good for playing games. 

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1 hour ago, MinkHD said:

I still need to get ram and a psu so. 630 i am not going to get a psu and ram for 20. I am only getting 128gb ssd i am only using it to boot windows. I have a 2tb hdd that i own. Also i dont have that much to spend. I’ll just use the stock cooler as i dont plan on overclocking. 650 is my budget for all parts. I’ll try the new mobo. The 1500X has the best clock speed and thread count for me so i’ll go with that.  

If you can overclock buy the r5 1400. It's a little cheaper than the 1500x and performs about the same when overclock do at the same frequencies. Imo it doesn't make a lot of sense to buy the 1500x when the 1600 is $20~ more and offers greater performance. If you are going to go low end ryzen 5, go with the 1400. 

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1 hour ago, NowThatsDamp said:

And for the PSU, anything that says 80+ Bronze on the side or higher will be fine. People on this forum like to get their panties in a huuuugggee knot about how "If you don't have a $150 PSU it's gonna nuke your system guaranteed". Trust me. It won't. 99.9% of Walmart PC's run great on $15 Chinese PSU's for 8, 9, 10 years. If you get one that's made by a name brand AND is built to the manufacturing tolerances of any efficiency standard, you're gonna be super good to go.

Lmao

 

Walmart PCs don't play games in 99.9% of use cases yet alone do anything stressful. Not to mention their PCs pull like 100w full load from the wall and they have a cheap 200w power supply that are barely being used so your analogy while similar is not applicable. 

 

If you like replacing parts then please be my guest and keep using no name power supplies, I can tell you with first hand experience you should buy a quality power supply, it makes a big difference with power stability and it's better for your parts in the long run. You don't want to lose a Mobo and possibly something else to a bad power supply popping. 

 

If I were building an office PC then any power supply will work well but if I am building a PC that is gonna be doing any kind of high workload, I'd buy a quality power supply. Not to mention a good power supply is not much more expensive than a cheap one, why not spend $20~ at most for insurance. 

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6 hours ago, luigi90210 said:

Lmao

 

Walmart PCs don't play games in 99.9% of use cases yet alone do anything stressful. Not to mention their PCs pull like 100w full load from the wall and they have a cheap 200w power supply that are barely being used so your analogy while similar is not applicable. 

 

If you like replacing parts then please be my guest and keep using no name power supplies, I can tell you with first hand experience you should buy a quality power supply, it makes a big difference with power stability and it's better for your parts in the long run. You don't want to lose a Mobo and possibly something else to a bad power supply popping. 

 

If I were building an office PC then any power supply will work well but if I am building a PC that is gonna be doing any kind of high workload, I'd buy a quality power supply. Not to mention a good power supply is not much more expensive than a cheap one, why not spend $20~ at most for insurance. 

Case in point ^

This'll power your system as is real good

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438012&ignorebbr=1

Spend $5 more dollars on this is you want a little more headroom; Maybe for a 250w GPU down the road

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139200

Edited by NowThatsDamp
Wrong link lol
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1 hour ago, NowThatsDamp said:

Case in point ^

This'll power your system as is real good

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438012&ignorebbr=1

Spend $5 more dollars on this is you want a little more headroom; Maybe for a 250w GPU down the road

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438012&ignorebbr=1

you posted the same link lol

either way, randomgaminginhd recently posted a video about his cheap power supply breaking on him and his experiences with it, he heard an audible pop and started smelling a burning smell and thats another risk to buying a cheap power supply, electrical fires can and will happen with cheap power supplies and best case you lose your PC in the fire, worst case you lose everything in your house

 

we have a great tier list of power supplies thats consistently updated and anything tier 3 and higher is recommended

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Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 8700 @4.45ghz |~| Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212X |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z370M D3H mATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: nVidia Founders Edition GTX 1080 Ti |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700KF @ 5.0Ghz (5.1Ghz 4-core) |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490 UD |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX @ 2666Mhz CL13 |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6800 (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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