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Ok so i just got an X58 mobo with an i7-920. Owner said it was broken (got it for 5€, for fun), so i try a few things, everything lights up, lights go away, few seconds later it shuts down and then restarts and continues that.

 

At this point you'd think it was the mobo being dead, but i put a speaker in it and decided to remove the ram and boot it up, it beeped. From what i know if the mobo was dead, it wouldn't beep that the memory was missing.

Thoughts?

 

P.S. i smelled something burning, like a wire, but it wasn't there when i removed the power button connector and the 1st speaker i put in (tried w/o the speaker first, then speaker, sudden bad smell, removed the speaker and the power button cable, then after a few more tries w/o a smell i put in a new speaker, was fine), but doesn't seem that there's anything wrong with the mobo in that regard. Speaker might have shorted :/

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10 minutes ago, NecroFlex said:

Ok so i just got an X58 mobo with an i7-920. Owner said it was broken (got it for 5€, for fun), so i try a few things, everything lights up, lights go away, few seconds later it shuts down and then restarts and continues that.

 

At this point you'd think it was the mobo being dead, but i put a speaker in it and decided to remove the ram and boot it up, it beeped. From what i know if the mobo was dead, it wouldn't beep that the memory was missing.

Thoughts?

 

P.S. i smelled something burning, like a wire, but it wasn't there when i removed the power button connector and the 1st speaker i put in (tried w/o the speaker first, then speaker, sudden bad smell, removed the speaker and the power button cable, then after a few more tries w/o a smell i put in a new speaker, was fine), but doesn't seem that there's anything wrong with the mobo in that regard. Speaker might have shorted :/

Have you tried removing the CMOS battery?

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

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Just now, NecroFlex said:

yes and reseting the cmos

That burning smell was probably the final bang. The CPU might still be ok though. Try moving some ram around. Make sure that there is nothing on the board, like small metal deposits. Disconnect everything aside from the fans and display cable, and use a screwdriver to jump the power button pins, it may be a short from something out side of the board. 

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

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49 minutes ago, fixitnow said:

That burning smell was probably the final bang. The CPU might still be ok though. Try moving some ram around. Make sure that there is nothing on the board, like small metal deposits. Disconnect everything aside from the fans and display cable, and use a screwdriver to jump the power button pins, it may be a short from something out side of the board. 

The board wasn't working in the 1st place so the burning smell wasn't the board.

 

Anyway, got a xeon to test it out, E5506, board powers on for a second and then powers off, keeps doing that, so the CPU probably isn't supported?

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11 hours ago, NecroFlex said:

The board wasn't working in the 1st place so the burning smell wasn't the board.

 

Anyway, got a xeon to test it out, E5506, board powers on for a second and then powers off, keeps doing that, so the CPU probably isn't supported?

Asus say its supported. My money is on that there is something in the socket or on of the pins are bent. 

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

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Look on the board for any traces that may have been broken with a scratch. I had a dead board, found out the PO has broken a couple traces when trying to remove the board so I whipped out the soldering iron, scratched away part of each trace to expose some copper, soldered a wire to reconnect it, tested that the connection worked with a voltohmmeter, then secured the wires in place with some epoxy. It's ugly as sin but now I have a working system built with an 8320, mobo, and 16GB RAM for $75.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Other Systems:

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Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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On 01/08/2017 at 6:38 PM, pyrojoe34 said:

Look on the board for any traces that may have been broken with a scratch. I had a dead board, found out the PO has broken a couple traces when trying to remove the board so I whipped out the soldering iron, scratched away part of each trace to expose some copper, soldered a wire to reconnect it, tested that the connection worked with a voltohmmeter, then secured the wires in place with some epoxy. It's ugly as sin but now I have a working system built with an 8320, mobo, and 16GB RAM for $75.

Checked...there kinda was a  trace that...i kinda had to pull off, probably the one that made the smell, it's where the LAN/Sound traces are, from what i see it doesnt' connect to anything, 2 empty parts, probably made for higher end boards. Saw a few more scratches but they don't seem to be deep or anything.

 

The CPU socket tho, CPU is in well and all, the metal around moves even tho it's screwed down but the issue is i really need to push down to secure the retaining pin down, idk why, feels like it's too much force.

 

Still doesn't POST, constant loop :( oh well

 

EDIT: the south bridge is insanely hot tho, could be the issue

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