PC won't get past post to begin with & other problems.

[Iggledude]

I’m in need of some help if anyone would be so kind.  I would very much appreciate if someone could give an answer or maybe a good road map to a possible answer for a few problems I’m having with my new PC build.  Thank you.

 

My daughter and I just built a new gaming system.  There are a few parts included in this new build that came from my former gaming rig, which I will detail later.

 

Problem:

I press the Start/Stop button on the case and the new system boots up and even posts only to shut off just before the sign-in screen appears.  Immediately after the shutdown I tap the Start/Stop button on the case again and it boots, posts, reaches sign-in screen and from that point forward it runs “fairly” perfectly.  This happens every time I shutdown the PC and come back to it at a later point of the day/night to restart it.

 

I’ve Googled the symptoms and attempted some of the more logical solutions all to no avail thus far.

 

When I used the word “fairly” in the above description it was meant to act as a placeholder for other concerns/possible problems I’ve noticed since installing the OS and other necessary software I use to maintain, protect, work with, and play with new machine.

 

Other Possible Problems:

(a)  I see my screens (3) flash occasionally.

(b) The system doesn’t react/respond/boot as fast as one would expect it should seeing as the hardware I have installed in said system should absolutely burn through any and all functions imo.

(c) The case fans’ RPM levels audibly fluctuate from time to time while doing something as simple as opening a new window or tab, moving a window or tab, installing an application, typing this request for assistance, and sometimes with nothing happening at all.  In fact, certain case fans sometimes stop running altogether.

 

These are my issues and I so very much hope and pray someone can help.

 

I’ve been a member of the LTT-LMG Forums Community since 2014.  I’ve been a fan of, and subscribed to, NCIX Tech Tips and LTT since 2011/2012.  I admit I rarely post in the forums, and I think this is the first time I’ve been so thoroughly stumped by a system issue that I’m therefore having to reach out to the forum and its wonderful members for support and/or advice.  I suppose we all must ask for help sometimes.  I’m a Floatplane Pilot, I assist other members when/if I can, and I read the forums regularly.  To be completely honest, between LTT-YouTube, these Forums, and NCIX Tech Tips-YouTube I’ve been taught to build Simple Desktop PCs and Laptops all the way up to a couple of nice Gaming Rigs.  The tutorials on LTT, advice/explanations given in Techquickies, and these Forums have served as great tools for many prior technical complications I’ve tackled.

 

Again, I truly Appreciate and Thank anyone that may be able to assist me.

 

 

Rig Build:

Case - Corsair Graphite Series 780T Full Tower Black PC Case.
Motherboard - ASUS ROG STRIX Z270E Gaming Board.
Processor - Intel 7th Gen Intel Core i7-7700K (OCed to 5.0GHz).
CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance.  Switched fans.
CPU Cooler Fans - (2) Noctua SSO2 Bearing Fan NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM.
Thermal Paste - ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste.
Rear Case Fan - (1) Corsair ML140 Pro LED, Blue.
Front/Bottom Case Fans - (5) Corsair ML120 Pro LED, Blue.
Ram - G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3200MHz.
Power Supply (Former Rig; 3 years old) - Corsair AX860, Fully Modular, 80+ Platinum Certified.
Graphics Card (Former Rig; 3 years old) - EVGA GeForce GTX 780Ti Classified 3GB GDDR5 384-Bit.  Running “Unofficial” 2^nd Bios and OCed nicely.  Very Stable.
Storage - Local Disk (C):  Samsung 960 PRO Series 2TB PCIe NVMe M.2 Internal SSD. – Local Disk (F) {Former Rig; 3 years old}:  Corsair Neutron Series GTX 240GB SATA III Internal SSD. – Local Disk (G) {Former Laptop; 3 years old}:  Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SATA III Internal SSD. – Local Disk (H) {Former Laptop; 6 months old}:  Toshiba 1TB 5400RPM SATA III 8MB 2.5 Inch. – External Disk (S) {Former Rig; 3 years old}:  WD Black 2TB Performance HDD 7200 RPM SATA III 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch – Connected via Inateck USB 3.0 to SATA External HDD Lay-Flat Docking Station to USB 3.0 in rear of Case.
Internal RGB Lighting – Corsair Lighting Node Pro RGB using Corsair Link. Additional lighting provided by (1) Logisys 12" Cold Cathode Case Lights (Blue-2 Piece).
External USB 3.0 Hub - Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub. 24W Power Adapter. USB 3.0 Cable from Hub to the rear of the PC into a USB 3.0 connection.
Camera/Microphone - Logitech C922x Pro Stream Webcam.
Speakers - Bose Companion 2 Series III Multimedia Speakers for PC.
Monitors - (3) HP 2511x 25-Inch LED 1920x1080 60Hz Black Monitors.
Keyboard - Tt eSPORTS MEKA G1 Illuminated Mechanical Professional Gaming Keyboard Cherry MX Black key switches.
Mouse – 2015 Razer DeathAdder Chroma Multicolor Ergonomic Gaming Mouse.
Operating System - Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit | USB Flash Drive.

 

All drivers, settings, programs/applications, MS updates, and bios fully/completely updated.  All wires, cables, connections checked and double-checked to ensure proper connection.

 

If software information is needed please request it and I will be more than happy to provide the information.

 

I apologize for the book I’ve written here, but we all know to assist with problem(s), we must have knowledge of the problems, and furthermore, know what we’re working with at the time said problems are occurring.

 

Again, I thank you for your time, patience, and hopefully, words of wisdom.  Thank you.

 

Regards,
Iggledude

[NoRomanBatmansAllowed]

So you installed windows, correct?

 

 Can you re-install it?

[Billy_Mays]

Try to test it with another PSU because it may be dying which can be very bad because you paid good money for that

[Iggledude]

Thanks for responding guys.

 

 @bob51zhang  Yes, I installed Windows 10 Pro myself, and I feel as though the installation went just as it should. However, reinstalling the OS is something I will absolutely consider if I fail to find another alternative that fixes the problems I've described.    This would probably be my go to (possible) fix if all else fails.  Thank you bob51zhang.

 

@Billy_Mays  The problem with that is I would literally have to buy another PS just to test that theory... because dumb ME threw away (yes, tossed in the trash) a perfectly good, working PS three years ago once this one arrived.  Yes, I now see the complete madness of doing so.

 

Also, the PS came straight from my last rig and had been on and working perfectly just a few hours before installing into the new system, so I am almost sure this PS is okay.  Let me ask this:  Is there another way to test this PS to see if something has gone wrong?  As you said, I did pay "good money" for it and it is still under warranty (7 years) with Corsair.  It was bought from Amazon on 02/01/2014.  Thank you for the great idea though, and I'm going to be looking into how to test this PS for problems.  If you, or anyone else reading this, has a way to test this PS, I would be very grateful.  Thank you Billy_Mays.

[Billy_Mays]

2 hours ago, Iggledude said:

Thanks for responding guys.

@Billy_Mays  The problem with that is I would literally have to buy another PS just to test that theory... because dumb ME threw away (yes, tossed in the trash) a perfectly good, working PS three years ago once this one arrived.  Yes, I now see the complete madness of doing so.

 

Also, the PS came straight from my last rig and had been on and working perfectly just a few hours before installing into the new system, so I am almost sure this PS is okay.  Let me ask this:  Is there another way to test this PS to see if something has gone wrong?  As you said, I did pay "good money" for it and it is still under warranty (7 years) with Corsair.  It was bought from Amazon on 02/01/2014.  Thank you for the great idea though, and I'm going to be looking into how to test this PS for problems.  If you, or anyone else reading this, has a way to test this PS, I would be very grateful.  Thank you Billy_Mays.

Well we all have done something that we regret

[Iggledude]

Quote

3 hours ago, Billy_Mays said:

Well we all have done something that we regret

 

 

That's for sure.  I'm hoping someone will step up with some other good suggestions such as those you guys have given. I just gotta be patient and also keep researching these issues for myself.

[Iggledude]

Just wanted to give this a bump hoping to set some new eyes upon it maybe.  Thanks.  

[bcguru9384]

bump the cpu clock back down so that the maths used by the mobo to set the fsb clock will keep you in the fsb equiv to ram cas and latency type specs(but the fsb own version)

i dont remember exactly how formula is but my pc i used to use had 800mhz fsb and 2ghz cpu(200mhz baseclock × upto 10multiplyer)

baseclock × upto 4multiplyer get fsb i think 

ram was baseclock × upto 2multi i think

northbridge had an upto # multi

when these all in use they couldnt add to over cpu equaled(baseclock × 10)

[Iggledude]

@bcguru9384

 

Thank you for the suggestion.  I'll see if my clock speeds can be manipulated with so as to stop this "turn on -- die... turn on again, and everything runs almost perfectly" problem I can't seem to shake loose from.

 

Again, thank you for your time and the suggestion.

 

BTW @bcguru9384 what kind of PC (or Mac) do you own now?  Just curious. 

 

Regards,
Iggledude

[Iggledude]

I'm still experiencing these same issues and my startup time is slow for such an ssd.  I did clean install of everything.  Also, my shutdown time is like 5 seconds flat.

 

Just still can't figure out these little problems.  Any help is greatly appreciated and sorry about the original long post.  I just wanted to ensure I got everything in, so maybe it would make it easier for someone to spot the problem a little quicker.

 

Thank you,
Iggledude

[MadITgeek]

Here are my suggestions

 

checked to see if CPU temperatures are OK on idle and under load?

 

double-check to make sure that Windows 10 is not using its internal AHCI driver (runs storage) can check by going to device manager expand IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers. it should say something like what my system says ( I have intel 2nd-gen sandy bridge)

 

intel 6 series/C200 series chipset family 6 port SATA AHCI controller

 

if not install intel RST (intel rapid storage)  as I have seen (I work at a computer repair store) for whatever reason the AHCI driver does not get updated when you install the intel chipset drivers (it used to be but no longer the case. I think intel changed it when haswell/4th-gen launched)

 

as for the power-on it boots and then dies and you turn it back on again and its OK...no idea on that one