Tips to Start Your Next Home Theater

[stevv]

I meant the heavy olf fashioned copper string/wire wound thingies vs the electronical small and light modern version. Power amplifier? My receiver's weight is ~ 16kg.  The German term is Ringkerntrafo => dictionary offers a part translation = toroidal core something :wacko:???

 

Yep, totally personal preferences . Not 'right' or 'wrong', just 'other'.

Valve/tube... also an interesting sound! Those we have here in RL still in at least 2 guitar amps. Less difference between the 2 versions I meant.

 

I prefer the 'heavy' ones, when it is an amplifier / receiver that was then a 'good' one (not overdone, based on reality, but with 'depth')

 

Sounds fancy.  It might be easier to explain if you put the model name / numbers  .

[gardening]

Sounds fancy.  It might be easier to explain if you put the model name / numbers  .

 

It's not fancy it's only about another construction principle.

 

I do not know company model names beside the ones I own and one I hope to remember right.

 

The (stereo) Harman Kardon 330c (1978) sounds basically in another way as the (7.1 or 5.1+2.0) Harman & Kardon AVR 5500 (2002), as they are very different classes. But they have common parts in sound, that I am missing in receivers already common in 2002 too, apearancewise recogniseable then e.g. via 1/3 of weight and often less height too.

 

Cheaper to build as electronic helps to lessen the expenses for copper, hence the weight loss for the 'modern' receivers?

Counting for the PSU and for the at the end of audio data processing sitting components and some details of the newer ones, that switch the power on and of as needed = 3 different construction principle details. I like the heavy version without the switches (those that produce a lot of heat).

 

I think the best of the 'new' versions is called DPR instead of AVR within the Harman Kardon receivers build around 2002 to 2005. I remember the comparison in the sound room then, I bought then the AVR 5500 as a sales offer for 'new' models. I think the DPR model might have been the DPR 2005 (I remember finding it funny as it was before the year 2005).

I spend then months in sound rooms and studios, as I searched also for speakers and combinded it with work related trips, my brain seem to have deleted all other model names.

Important was to let the new ones run for quite some time, newly installed they sounded IMHO horrible. The stores then did that outside of the sound rooms. A bit like certain speakers, that also need 'a bit' running time till they sound right, but for another reason.

 

In the hope that helped... :wacko:

[mealto]

Thanks to knight_40k and stevv for taking the time to contribute more tips. I have decided not to merge any tips as home theater is not black or white and recommendations will differ. We are seeing this already. Keep the conversation and debate going. Nice.

[mealto]

As far as crossover points for your sub, here is a good starting point.

 

1. Set Phase to 0
2. Set Crossover dial on the sub to the highest setting (if you have a digital recevier; let the receiver control bass management. As long as you set thing sup properly, the receiver will know what kind of speakers you have and how to manage the bass). If you paid for a digital receiver, it will not only do a good job at sending low frequencies to your sub, but it will also try and equalize out frequencies based on your room to try and give you a smoother response curve. Hardcore users tend to shy away from auto-calibration but given my experience, you can spend way too many hours to try and manually calibrate things or you can set it once (with auto-calibration) and forget it. Time is better spent enjoying your gear than trying to tweak the crap out of it in my opinion. Mind you, 99% of the time, Audyssey needs to be tweaked for cross over points after auto calibration. See next point.
3. After auto calibration, most receivers will tell you your speakers should be crossed at a lower Hz. Here is a general rule. Unless you have $2000+ speakers (for the pair or even per center channel), suck up that ego and set speaker setting to Small and cross them at 80Hz. This is a start. Fine tune as needed. This will free up power from your receiver to push out cleaner power to your mid and highs and let your sub (did I mention you should buy the most expensive sub you can afford, within reason of course) do all the fun bass work.

If you don't have a digital receiver where you can auto calibrate, then you may consider getting an SPL meter to do manual tweaks. For the record, Aydussey does a super job at detecting speaker distance (except sub, but this is normal) but it also "equalizes" your bass frequencies to try and smooth out response based on your room acoustics.

 

If you are a hardcore home theater tweak kind of guy, you probably do not use Audyssey or other calibration systems that come with your receiver. Or you may be using other dedicated bass calibration systems that come from your speaker manufacturer. In general, I find Audyssey to work well.

 

After auto calibration, as I mentioned, it is important to overide the crossover points 99% of the time. Do that and you will hear your system come alive during those loud blockbuster movies.

[mr moose]

I meant the heavy olf fashioned copper string/wire wound thingies vs the electronical small and light modern version. Power amplifier? My receiver's weight is ~ 16kg.  The German term is Ringkerntrafo => dictionary offers a part translation = toroidal core something :wacko:???

 

Yep, totally personal preferences . Not 'right' or 'wrong', just 'other'.

Valve/tube... also an interesting sound! Those we have here in RL still in at least 2 guitar amps. Less difference between the 2 versions I meant.

 

I prefer the 'heavy' ones, when it is an amplifier / receiver that was then a 'good' one (not overdone, based on reality, but with 'depth')

Ah, you mean switch mode power supplies and Class D amplifiers.  Yes they are significantly lighter.   The switch mode Power supply is the same style/design of power supply that is in a PCs PSU.  class D are awesome.

 

I have 1500Watt amp here that weights about 37Kg and I went into the music store and picked up a 4000Watt amp that was so light I thought was a pretend display model (like in furniture shops with no insides) but no, it was the whole amp.  Mind blowing stuff, especially when 90% of your amp experiences is with valves and transistors.

[knight_40k]

This is a nice thread, though a little bumpy in terms of where the placement and budget of home theater you're trying to convey.

 

I agree, it is all over the place. There is so much information to be distributed. Your idea's for splitting up into sections are good, maybe you could help us organize it.

[gardening]

Ah, you mean switch mode power supplies and Class D amplifiers.  Yes they are significantly lighter.   The switch mode Power supply is the same style/design of power supply that is in a PCs PSU.  class D are awesome.

 

I have 1500Watt amp here that weights about 37Kg and I went into the music store and picked up a 4000Watt amp that was so light I thought was a pretend display model (like in furniture shops with no insides) but no, it was the whole amp.  Mind blowing stuff, especially when 90% of your amp experiences is with valves and transistors.

 

Ahhh, that's the names!?! I hope I won't (shan't?) forget them again... they do sound differently, I am gueesing for you too.

 

The only thing I like about the switch mode version: good for the back (slides?). But as I am not having problems with them, I'll stay with the heavy ones. (I am guessing we are at similar age, funny just laughed about an age poll here)

 

:D :D :D  about the light weight experience....

 

Curios to learn, if someone went to a studio and tried out the different sounds (valve, Class D amps, and the switch versions).

 

 

+++

 

 

to add to the discussion:

 

How much would you change your room for the perfect sound or video / home cinema experiennce?

 

 

Or is there someone interested in it, but doesn't know details like speaker minimum distance to walls... depending on speakers or... what kind of resolution is the human eye able to see at what distance/screen size or...

[mealto]

How much would you change your room for the perfect sound or video / home cinema experiennce?

 

 

Or is there someone interested in it, but doesn't know details like speaker minimum distance to walls... depending on speakers or... what kind of resolution is the human eye able to see at what distance/screen size or...

There will be a range of possibilities. For the person with a dedicated HT room, they may do many things to get better video and audio. For the person who uses their main living room as the HT area, they may do little. It's not always possible to place speakers x-amount of feet from a point and to try to throw up sound traps etc... when the fish tank is 10 feet away and the sound of splashing water is constant.

 

I truly believe home theater is what you make of it. HT should be fun and enjoyed. To some, that means tweaking over and over again. For some, even if it is in your living room, get it set up, follow some simple rules and enjoy your gear! 

[mr moose]

Ahhh, that's the names!?! I hope I won't (shan't?) forget them again... they do sound differently, I am gueesing for you too.

 

The only thing I like about the switch mode version: good for the back (slides?). But as I am not having problems with them, I'll stay with the heavy ones. (I am guessing we are at similar age, funny just laughed about an age poll here)

 

:D :D :D  about the light weight experience....

 

Curios to learn, if someone went to a studio and tried out the different sounds (valve, Class D amps, and the switch versions).

 

 

+++

 

 

to add to the discussion:

 

How much would you change your room for the perfect sound or video / home cinema experiennce?

 

 

Or is there someone interested in it, but doesn't know details like speaker minimum distance to walls... depending on speakers or... what kind of resolution is the human eye able to see at what distance/screen size or...

I have heard the class D in live events and for basic stuff and don't I'd be able to tell between them and solid state in blind test.

 

 

As far as room treatment goes, I have curtains on two walls with carpet behind. My walls are not soundproof but have extra insulation in them to deaden the sound,  My rear wall is 3foot thick glass wool with a thin panne material over the top.  I have 1/2"x10'x2' bass trap in the top rear corner and two absorption panels on the ceiling in front of my surround speakers.    It's not perfect, but I am not spending another $15,000 to get only a slightly perceivable improvement.

[gardening]

There will be a range of possibilities. For the person with a dedicated HT room, they may do many things to get better video and audio. For the person who uses their main living room as the HT area, they may do little. It's not always possible to place speakers x-amount of feet from a point and to try to throw up sound traps etc... when the fish tank is 10 feet away and the sound of splashing water is constant.

 

I truly believe home theater is what you make of it. HT should be fun and enjoyed. To some, that means tweaking over and over again. For some, even if it is in your living room, get it set up, follow some simple rules and enjoy your gear! 

 

Exactly. But a beginner might not know the basic rules abd might like to get pointers here or to some other entries or... Sometimes simple moving some furniture is helpful, stores or... to know about those details. Only a suggestion to add those basic details here too, better (and probably a lot shorter) as I would be able to do so.

 

 

As far as room treatment goes, I have curtains on two walls with carpet behind. My walls are not soundproof but have extra insulation in them to deaden the sound,  My rear wall is 3foot thick glass wool with a thin panne material over the top.  I have 1/2"x10'x2' bass trap in the top rear corner and two absorption panels on the ceiling in front of my surround speakers.    It's not perfect, but I am not spending another $15,000 to get only a slightly perceivable improvement.

 

I use curtains a to get a more simple room form (deep booth for lots of terrace doors in the room), and one extra wall (a bit like a stabile paravent)

 

our walls are pretty solid here typically, but I need the walls for lots of shelfs   => your kind of commitment I couldn't bring up (and it might also change the room's appearance too much)

 

I can imagine some ppl might be interested in little pics or explanations, what and why someone might use this and that, how to do it DIY like, the costs...