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PC turns on for 6 seconds then off

I posted a day ago about replacing my ram in my PC and how that created the problem what I still have today. I am going to have the full diagnosis or problem below, my specs will be at the very bottom.

Yesterday my new Corsair vengeance 2x4gb RAM shipped. I went to go replace my old RAM (Ballistix 2x4gb ram) in my gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI mobo. The sticks fit fine and when I went to run it, it turned on but no video came up on the monitor, it then shut off after 6 seconds and turned back on. This cycle loops whenever the power is connected and I click the power once. I've tried disconnecting everything non crucial to launch, I've tried putting old ram into it. I'm afraid ive ruined my mobo which is terrible to think since I just started break and have no way to get it replaced. I was told to reset CMOS, my question is where to find it. I looked at many videos and manuals of my specific board and I think I found the place to put the plastic insert for it. The problem is I don't have the plastic insert. If this came with my motherboard then it is in the box at my fathers house. I just recently fought to get the plan changed to make him have 0 custody of me, so there is low chance of me getting this back. Can I make an insert or buy one (I looked but to no avail). This is coming at the worst time for me and I really hope I can get some help. Please don't reply 3 word fixes to boost your posts and leave when I try to follow up on your suggestions. I need you guys.

Specs:

Corsair Carbide 240 Case

Radeon R9 280 GPU

Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Motherboard

(Original RAM) Ballistix 2x4gb ram

(New RAM) Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb ram

Intel i5 4690k CPU

250gb ssd

1tb hdd

Corsair 750m PSU

PLEASE HELP ME AND SHARE THIS I CAN POST PICURES UPON REQUEST

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You left out the PSU. Very important factor in this one.

 

And why the hell did you replace your Crucial kit for the same size Corsair kit? Kind of pointless, I would've just gotten some heatsinks and installed them if you did it for aesthetics.

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I posted a day ago about replacing my ram in my PC and how that created the problem what I still have today. I am going to have the full diagnosis or problem below, my specs will be at the very bottom.

Yesterday my new Corsair vengeance 2x4gb RAM shipped. I went to go replace my old RAM (Ballistix 2x4gb ram) in my gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI mobo. The sticks fit fine and when I went to run it, it turned on but no video came up on the monitor, it then shut off after 6 seconds and turned back on. This cycle loops whenever the power is connected and I click the power once. I've tried disconnecting everything non crucial to launch, I've tried putting old ram into it. I'm afraid ive ruined my mobo which is terrible to think since I just started break and have no way to get it replaced. I was told to reset CMOS, my question is where to find it. I looked at many videos and manuals of my specific board and I think I found the place to put the plastic insert for it. The problem is I don't have the plastic insert. If this came with my motherboard then it is in the box at my fathers house. I just recently fought to get the plan changed to make him have 0 custody of me, so there is low chance of me getting this back. Can I make an insert or buy one (I looked but to no avail). This is coming at the worst time for me and I really hope I can get some help. Please don't reply 3 word fixes to boost your posts and leave when I try to follow up on your suggestions. I need you guys.

Specs:

Corsair Carbide 240 Case

Radeon R9 280 GPU

Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Motherboard

(Original RAM) Ballistix 2x4gb ram

(New RAM) Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb ram

Intel i5 4690k CPU

250gb ssd

1tb hdd

PLEASE HELP ME AND SHARE THIS I CAN POST PICURES UPON REQUEST

And follow your own topics so you receive notifications.

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You can probably use a toothpick or something to reset the cmos. Just put the toothpick where the insert would go and take out the watch battery for 15 to 20 minutes.

 

 

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You left out the PSU. Very important factor in this one.

And why the hell did you replace your Crucial kit for the same size Corsair kit? Kind of pointless, I would've just gotten some heatsinks and installed them if you did it for aesthetics.

To be completely honest I'm an idiot. I thought my mobo had 4 ram slots and it didn't adding PSU to post now but here it is.

Corsair 750m

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To be completely honest I'm an idiot. I thought my mobo had 4 ram slots and it didn't adding PSU to post now but here it is.

Corsair 750m

750M what? Does it say CX on the side?

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You can probably use a toothpick or something to reset the cmos. Just put the toothpick where the insert would go and take put the watch batter for 15 to 20 minutes.

Can I take a picture and have you point this out to me?

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Can I take a picture and have you point this out to me?

U out can. I won't get back to u u for a little bit though since it's midnight and I need to sleep

 

 

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Can I take a picture and have you point this out to me?

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/692838/Gigabyte-Ga-Z97n-Wifi.html?page=29

 

Turn off your PC and unplug it.

Take a screwdriver or some other metal object.

Short the two pins labeled CLR_CMOS for a few seconds using the screwdriver or metal object. The picture of where it is located is in the link I provided.

Then go ahead and turn on your PC and see what happens.

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isn't the cmos jumper on the edge of the board just to the right of the 4pin power connector?

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http://www.manualslib.com/manual/692838/Gigabyte-Ga-Z97n-Wifi.html?page=29

Turn off your PC and unplug it.

Take a screwdriver or some other metal object.

Short the two pins labeled CLR_CMOS for a few seconds using the screwdriver or metal object. The picture of where it is located is in the link I provided.

Then go ahead and turn on your PC and see what happens.

Tried this nothing has changed from what I see. Thank you so much for the suggestion and for reading.

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Tried this nothing has changed from what I see. Thank you so much for the suggestion and for reading.

I think it might be a PSU problem then.

 

Does it just straight up shut off?

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That could be a problem.

 

That PSU is a potential firecracker. Clear CMOS and see if it works, if not then you might have a bad PSU.

Any sure fireway to test this other than putting it in another pc ? If not is it possible that me putting in the new ram messed it up? I don't understand the connection between that as the PSU was working just fine. I'm not doubting you at all I just don't know enough on this

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Any sure fireway to test this other than putting it in another pc ? If not is it possible that me putting in the new ram messed it up? I don't understand the connection between that as the PSU was working just fine. I'm not doubting you at all I just don't know enough on this

Well that PSU is known very well to ruin people's systems and even start fires. I'm not saying that could be the only problem though. I would try another PSU just to be sure.

 

Also try using your onboard GPU, it might also be a GPU problem.

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That could be a problem.

 

That PSU is a potential firecracker. Clear CMOS and see if it works, if not then you might have a bad PSU.

that PSU is not a potential firecracker. it is a fine PSU as a general rule and can handle a single 280 no problem. I'm not ruling out a faulty PSU, as that is a possibility, but it's not due to it being a CX series.

they do shut themselves down to prevent damage when they go significantly over their rated temperature at heavy loads, but that doesn't mean that they catch fire like is commonly believed, in fact they shut down before they get hot enough for that

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Well that PSU is known very well to ruin people's systems and even start fires. I'm not saying that could be the only problem though. I would try another PSU just to be sure.

 

Also try using your onboard GPU, it might also be a GPU problem.

Can't thank you enough for the help my friend has an extra PSU I can try. I'm really bummed about mine tho it was such a great deal. Happy holidays, I'll be back when I get the new PSU to test. Take care.

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that PSU is not a potential firecracker. it is a fine PSU as a general rule and can handle a single 280 no problem. I'm not ruling out a faulty PSU, as that is a possibility, but it's not due to it being a CX series.

It's been known to have issues. Like I said as well I'm not saying it's the complete fault of the PSU but it can certainly be a factor in this problem.

 

Can't thank you enough for the help my friend has an extra PSU I can try. I'm really bummed about mine tho it was such a great deal. Happy holidays, I'll be back when I get the new PSU to test. Take care.

The PSU is okay for lower end builds that don't generate a lot of heat. The problem is that the capacitors are only rated for pretty low operating temperatures so any excessive heat build up can be fatal for the capactiros and destroy the PSU along with some of your components. But it serves a lot of people well, it's a decent PSU.

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The PSU is okay for lower end builds that don't generate a lot of heat. The problem is that the capacitors are only rated for pretty low operating temperatures so any excessive heat build up can be fatal for the capactiros and destroy the PSU along with some of your components. But it serves a lot of people well, it's a decent PSU.

like I said, not as bad as people perpetuate.

the CX750m uses 105C rated CapXcon capacitors, while not the highest quality capacitors, they are also not bottom of the barrel, and are fine enough as long as the PSU isn't running hot for 100% of it's life. (if it is, you might get about 2.5 years, so if you are running over 50% power all day long, make sure it's intake temperature is low, external air if possible)

 

these are by no means "pretty low operating temperatures" and I haven't yet seen electrolytics rated for more than 105C. they might exist, but they're rare.

the PSU shuts itself off before it gets within 30 degrees of it's rated temperature.

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like I said, not as bad as people perpetuate.

the CX750m uses 105C rated CapXcon capacitors, while not the highest quality capacitors, they are also not bottom of the barrel, and are fine enough as long as the PSU isn't running hot for 100% of it's life. (if it is, you might get about 2.5 years, so if you are running over 50% power all day long, make sure it's intake temperature is low, external air if possible)

 

these are by no means "pretty low operating temperatures" and I haven't yet seen electrolytics rated for more than 105C. they might exist, but they're rare.

the PSU shuts itself off before it gets within 30 degrees of it's rated temperature.

Thanks for the correction. I was going off of memory, guess I exaggerated a bit.

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It's most likely a faulty PSU.  It's not a bad PSU, but the problem is that the PSU is not meant for gaming builds or long work loads.  That PSU is designed for basic builds+office builds.

faulty PSU is likely, but the PSU isn't designed for gaming or for office use, it's designed to deliver up to 750 watts continuous at a 30C intake temperature for any use, and it can still function up to 40 degrees as long as it's not at full power.

a 750 watt modular PSU is a far cry from a basic build. my gaming rig is pretty average and draws about 340 watts from the wall, which would be about 300 watts from the PSU (80+ silver)

750 watts is pretty substantial.

my basic builds are idling along at 18 watts even when playing netflix, drawing about as much power as my phone charger.

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Frequency of the new ram vs old?

Try putting back the old ram and set the frequency to manual i.e 1600 + and the voltage ( i guess 1.5) and try boot with the new

Also change the slot

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It's what Corsair themselves say.

 

"CX-M and CX Series

CX-M and CX Series PC power supplies are an excellent choice for basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades"

I'm not surprised they market it for basic systems, because they need somebody to market the high end gear to.

I still believe a power supply is a power supply. if it can deliver enough current at the right voltage, it doesn't matter what you're powering with it.

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