Basement Water Cooling Project (No More Remote Trigger - July/8/2016)

[AnonymousGuy]

Here's what the heat exchanger side looks like.  I have 2 heat exchangers because I have 2 loops...one for cpu + mosfet and another for the gpus.  The chilled water flows through the heat exchangers in series while the desktop side is 2 fully independent loops. 

 

The clear tubing is the expensive tygon stuff filled with Mayhem X1.  The black sleeved lines are the chilled water supply and return filled with tap water running 100 feet to the chillers, reservoir, big pump, and UV sanitizer.

 

[AntVenom]

You're doing this wrong.....kinda thing that can be cleared up in a Skype call faster than typing, but oh well for the beneft of everyone:

 

You don't want to hook up an industrial pump to your desktop.  None of the waterblocks or fittings are designed for those sorts of pressures.  You'll run into problems.

 

Second, you want to make 2 loops.  1 for the desktop, one for the loop running to the basement.  This protects your desktop from contamination (this is where Linus was being retarded), and makes it so you can save the "expensive" tubing and coolant for a short desktop loop and the cheap garden hose and tap water for the loop going to the basement.

 

Have one of these next to your desktop: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300979973111?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

You'll need fittings to adapt to NPT but McMaster has all that.

 

Use a regular D5 pump circulating between the heat exchanger and the desktop.

 

Buy an Iwaki AC pump you can put in the basement and use 5/8" barbs throughout along with plain Walmart garden hose to connect to the other side of the heat exchanger.  McMaster again will have all the 5/8 -> 1/2 stuff you need to adapt to the radiator.

 

EDIT: I'm basically already running what you want to do except with chillers instead of radiators.

I can see what you mean about the pump being too much pressure for the blocks & fittings, but I'm having trouble picturing what you mean when you say "running two loops". If I run a D-5 pump in my system, it'll be a variable speed one always running at the lowest speed, because I legitimately want silence. Anything besides silence is not a good enough answer.

Also, I'm NOT looking to cool the system in the room itself. That would defeat the whole purpose of this project, so I'm not sure if you're intending that when you say "run two loops"

 

Edit: reading your recent post, trying to understand it. This is all new to me

[AnonymousGuy]

 

2 loops - the blue one and the red one.  D5 pumps if enclosed in something and shock mounted will be pretty much impossible to hear even at 4-5.

 

The red loop is basically a normal desktop watercooling loop (pump, res, etc) except the rad is replaced with the heat exchanger.

 

You'll need a reservoir for the blue loop and I recommend a plastic garbage can that's sold at home depot in the 5 gallon range. 

[gamerking]

That's exactly what I had in mind. Like, I'm thinking 1-3 gallons for a reservoir. 

you dont need a huge one but it will help ,since you said you will be using quick disconnects buy a extra set of male and female and fill everything from the upstairs going down and then all you have to do then is fill the pc ,once you start the pump up

 

this was the biggest one i could find . unless you just going to use a rubber container for storing items as your res . if you do go custom res you need to get it as airtight as possible so no dirt or dust gets into the fluid from the air .

 

just be careful of the head pressure if its too high  the tubing may blow out or pull its self off the barbs , go for compression fittings since there better and its your first time doing this  since thats one strong pump . when your ordering your tubing make sure you get the correct primochill someplace's still sell the older one that is a plasticizer nightmare its what makes blocks unusable . this is the one that nearly no one has issues with advance LRT.    what fluid you going with premixed or distilled? i have run both and its just what ever comes out cheaper . since your looking gallons probably distilled with either a biocide/killcoil the premix has it already included from mayhems/ek

 

also when you buy everything flush it all with tap water and make sure its all clean then do it again with distilled water so you know its clean . and fill the rad about 1/4 of the way and give it a good shaken so you get all the junk from the manufacturing process out . some of it will plug the channels in the blocks other stuff may change the fluid color from it dissolving in the fluid.

 

you will love it the temps are insane with enough rad space you can be running at room temp. if the room doesnt heat up like a oven like my rig does to it .

for your blocks im guess you will buy any cpu one really.

 

for your  gpu do you know if there is one that is made for it  , did you check ekwb's http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

[AntVenom]

 

 

2 loops - the blue one and the red one.  D5 pumps if enclosed in something and shock mounted will be pretty much impossible to hear even at 4-5.

 

Alright, I think I'm understanding this. The purpose of running two loops is for the difference in pressure, and the fact that the industrial pump would be too much for the system, so heat exchanging it allows what I'm after to work w/ a clean loop on your "red" side, and a tap water route w/ UV sterilization on the "blue" loop, keeping that clean, but cheap in cost.

Edit: Does the heat exchanger itself get really hot, or is the heat exchanging process just really efficient, and there won't be any noticeable kickback of heat in the room?

[AnonymousGuy]

 

 

 

Alright, I think I'm understanding this. The purpose of running two loops is for the difference in pressure, and the fact that the industrial pump would be too much for the system, so heat exchanging it allows what I'm after to work w/ a clean loop on your "red" side, and a tap water route w/ UV sterilization on the "blue" loop, keeping that clean, but cheap in cost.

 

 

Correct.  100 feet of 1/2" tubing will be very restrictive, and also expensive.  Garden hose being mass produced can be had 150 feet for $40.  This also saves you from contamination so if the blue side gets hit with alien life forms for whatever reason (you can either run UV or chemicals, but I prefer UV because of my cat not wanting to drink chemicals), you're not having to tear apart your waterblocks and whatnot.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/NeverKink-125-Garden-Hose-Black/34399294

 

Is the hose I used.  Comes with anti-microbial coating on the inside already which I thought was nice.

[gamerking]

I can see what you mean about the pump being too much pressure for the blocks & fittings, but I'm having trouble picturing what you mean when you say "running two loops". If I run a D-5 pump in my system, it'll be a variable speed one always running at the lowest speed, because I legitimately want silence. Anything besides silence is not a good enough answer.

Also, I'm NOT looking to cool the system in the room itself. That would defeat the whole purpose of this project, so I'm not sure if you're intending that when you say "run two loops"

 

Edit: reading your recent post, trying to understand it. This is all new to me

you would need 2 d5's since the head pressure is only 10f per pump so it  would be cheaper with your first pump if you only looking at 10ish lenght then you could get away with one pump but 2 is needed if you going further then 10feet. since your only cooling 2 blocks gpu+cpu you could get away with a dcc they have a slower flow rate but high head pressure can push water further then a d5 could

what he means 2 loops one that cools the gpu one that cools cpu . you double all the parts so 2 rads 2 pumps ect

[AntVenom]

Correct.  100 feet of 1/2" tubing will be very restrictive, and also expensive.  Garden hose being mass produced can be had 150 feet for $40.  This also saves you from contamination so if the blue side gets hit with alien life forms for whatever reason (you can either run UV or chemicals, but I prefer UV because of my cat not wanting to drink chemicals), you're not having to tear apart your waterblocks and whatnot.

Alright cool. I'll definitely likely be sticking to just one heat exchanger, as I'm not running a monster powerhouse system. Just the 3960x, and a GTX980.

HOWEVER, if I can stick to a more traditional setup while staying within the rated limits of the fittings / blocks, I'll opt for that. But it's great to know this option exists, and I'm glad I know the industrial pump would be too much now.

 

 

you would need 2 d5's since the head pressure is only 10f per pump so it  would be cheaper with your first pump if you only looking at 10ish lenght then you could get away with one pump but 2 is needed if you going further then 10feet. since your only cooling 2 blocks gpu+cpu you could get away with a dcc they have a slower flow rate but high head pressure can push water further then a d5 could

what he means 2 loops one that cools the gpu one that cools cpu . you double all the parts so 2 rads 2 pumps ect

 

I only need 10 feet. It's a 6 1/2 foot basement, and maybe another 2-3 feet between the ceiling of that to the highest point in the PC. Plus, all of this will be on a table, so that's 4-4.5 feet in the basement, and another 2-3 through the floor into my room.

[gamerking]

Correct.  100 feet of 1/2" tubing will be very restrictive, and also expensive.  Garden hose being mass produced can be had 150 feet for $40.  This also saves you from contamination so if the blue side gets hit with alien life forms for whatever reason (you can either run UV or chemicals, but I prefer UV because of my cat not wanting to drink chemicals), you're not having to tear apart your waterblocks and whatnot.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/NeverKink-125-Garden-Hose-Black/34399294

 

Is the hose I used.  Comes with anti-microbial coating on the inside already which I thought was nice.

have you tested it in a loop garden hose since its so flexible its probably going to leach plasterer like crazy .so it would end up being more a headace

tubing is not restrictive at all blocks are most of it in a closed loop rads can also have a little some have alot also .

 

 

 

 

Alright, I think I'm understanding this. The purpose of running two loops is for the difference in pressure, and the fact that the industrial pump would be too much for the system, so heat exchanging it allows what I'm after to work w/ a clean loop on your "red" side, and a tap water route w/ UV sterilization on the "blue" loop, keeping that clean, but cheap in cost.

Edit: Does the heat exchanger itself get really hot, or is the heat exchanging process just really efficient, and there won't be any noticeable kickback of heat in the room?

 

you dont use tapwater on the block side if you go that route you will destroy the blocks thats what distilled water is for doesn't have the minerals and impurities in it

[AnonymousGuy]

you would need 2 d5's since the head pressure is only 10f per pump so it  would be cheaper with your first pump if you only looking at 10ish lenght then you could get away with one pump but 2 is needed if you going further then 10feet. since your only cooling 2 blocks gpu+cpu you could get away with a dcc they have a slower flow rate but high head pressure can push water further then a d5 could

what he means 2 loops one that cools the gpu one that cools cpu . you double all the parts so 2 rads 2 pumps ect

My setup is technically 3 loops.  The one going to the chillers, and then the 2 loops for the cpu and gpu's. 

 

In total I have 4 pumps.  1 d5 for the cpu,1 d5 for the gpu, 1 Iwaki WMD-35RLT (I think that's the model) for the main 100+ foot push to the chillers, and 1 EcoPlus 1584 submersible pump that sits in my reservoir and circulates water between the chillers and the reservoir.  Chillers have a minimum flowrate to generate enough turbulence, so I couldn't just plumb them straight into the main 100 foot loop because the flowrate there isn't high enough.

[AntVenom]

have you tested it in a loop garden hose since its so flexible its probably going to leach plasterer like crazy .so it would end up being more a headace

tubing is not restrictive at all blocks are most of it in a closed loop rads can also have a little some have alot also .

 

you dont use tapwater on the block side if you go that route you will destroy the blocks thats what distilled water is for doesn't have the minerals and impurities in it

Oh I'm absolutely aware of not using tap in the computer loop. distilled water all the way.

Edit:

 

My setup is technically 3 loops.  The one going to the chillers, and then the 2 loops for the cpu and gpu's. 

 

In total I have 4 pumps.  1 d5 for the cpu,1 d5 for the gpu, 1 Iwaki WMD-35RLT (I think that's the model) for the main 100+ foot push to the chillers, and 1 EcoPlus 1584 submersible pump that sits in my reservoir and circulates water between the chillers and the reservoir.  Chillers have a minimum flowrate to generate enough turbulence, so I couldn't just plumb them straight into the main 100 foot loop because the flowrate there isn't high enough.

Yeah I mean, I don't want to go critically insane with how much I put into this. If there is a way to not have a pump / res / rad (or in your case, heat exchanger outside) in my system, that's what I'm aiming for. If I can use a normal water cooling pump, and mount the whole setup higher in the basement so head-pressure isn't an issue, I'm willing to do that over running a pump in my system, and running two loops. the whole thing will be running a distilled water setup.

[gamerking]

Alright cool. I'll definitely likely be sticking to just one heat exchanger, as I'm not running a monster powerhouse system. Just the 3960x, and a GTX980.

HOWEVER, if I can stick to a more traditional setup while staying within the rated limits of the fittings / blocks, I'll opt for that. But it's great to know this option exists, and I'm glad I know the industrial pump would be too much now.

 

 

 

I only need 10 feet. It's a 6 1/2 foot basement, and maybe another 2-3 feet between the ceiling of that to the highest point in the PC. Plus, all of this will be on a table, so that's 4-4.5 feet in the basement, and another 2-3 through the floor into my room.

you did  double the lengths for the feed and return back to the pc right ? since you need 2 tubes total thur the floor also that 10foot number is on a after market top for the d5 either bitspower or ekwb's the stock one ant the best , . sorry if im trying to spoon feed you the info sometimes explaining this ant so straight forward as it seems on tech forums

[AnonymousGuy]

have you tested it in a loop garden hose since its so flexible its probably going to leach plasterer like crazy .so it would end up being more a headace

tubing is not restrictive at all blocks are most of it in a closed loop rads can also have a little some have alot also .

 

you dont use tapwater on the block side if you go that route you will destroy the blocks thats what distilled water is for doesn't have the minerals and impurities in it

 

That's the beauty of it...on the blue side you don't care about plasticizer or anything because it's not going through waterblocks anyways.

 

 

Edit: Does the heat exchanger itself get really hot, or is the heat exchanging process just really efficient, and there won't be any noticeable kickback of heat in the room?

 

As long as you have enough radiator in the basement then the system is going to equalizer to a temperature that should be pretty close to room temp.  My heat exchangers are about 10 degrees below room temperature because of the chillers and the same applies to my waterblocks.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300979973111?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

If you look at the specs at the bottom they're rated at btu/hr vs. a delta T between the hot and cold sides.  The bottom table is 5 degrees C temp difference, and it will do 10000 btu/hr (the 10 plate version) which is right about 3000W of heat transfer.  Keep in mind though that that rating is based on a pretty high flow rate, so you won't get full efficiency.  It scales linearly so 1 degree C is 3000/5 = 600W.  I have 2 of the 40 plate versions because I wanted to go full insanity and have 4000W of 1 degree C heat dissipation for my CPU and GPU loops).

[AntVenom]

you did  double the lengths for the feed and return back to the pc right ? since you need 2 tubes total thur the floor also that 10foot number is on a after market top for the d5 either bitspower or ekwb's the stock one ant the best and sorry if im trying to spoon feed you the info sometimes explaining this ant so straight forward as it seems

Ahh I think this might be a mistake I was making then, as I assumed head pressure was only the pressure involved in getting the water to go to it's highest point, and not much involved with the water coming back in the other direction.

 

Edit:

 

That's the beauty of it...on the blue side you don't care about plasticizer or anything because it's not going through waterblocks anyways.

 

 

As long as you have enough radiator in the basement then the system is going to equalizer to a temperature that should be pretty close to room temp.  My heat exchangers are about 10 degrees below room temperature because of the chillers and the same applies to my waterblocks.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300979973111?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

If you look at the specs at the bottom they're rated at btu/hr vs. a delta T between the hot and cold sides.  The bottom table is 5 degrees C temp difference, and it will do 10000 btu/hr (the 10 plate version) which is right about 3000W of heat transfer.  Keep in mind though that that rating is based on a pretty high flow rate, so you won't get full efficiency.  It scales linearly so 1 degree C is 3000/5 = 600W.  I have 2 of the 40 plate versions because I wanted to go full insanity and have 4000W of 1 degree C heat dissipation for my CPU and GPU loops).

 

Well the most my system has ever kicked out...ever.. is 600w of heat.

From what you're suggesting though, it really feels like it will overall, be more expensive to run a separate heat exchanger vs the cost of running good quality tubing (I know that's not the only point you were making, but all in all, it seems more expensive right now). If this was a more large-scale setup, I'd easily agree with you.

Here's a better question for the moment. Is there a pump, or series of pumps, or w/e that could provide the right amount of head pressure, and not be damaging to the blocks / fittings? The system will absolutely be clean, and fit w/ quick disconnects in case I HAVE to clean anything.

[AnonymousGuy]

Ahh I think this might be a mistake I was making then, as I assumed head pressure was only the pressure involved in getting the water to go to it's highest point, and not much involved with the water coming back in the other direction.

 

I always treated it as head pressure is only to the highest point, because water going with gravity is "free" energy.  Yes there is some loss due to friction between the fluid and the tubing itself.

[AntVenom]

I always treated it as head pressure is only to the highest point, because water going with gravity is "free" energy.  Yes there is some loss due to friction between the fluid and the tubing itself.

So, just so I understand this correctly, if the pump I use provides say, 12 feet of head pressure, and I'm pushing for like...7-8, why would the industrial pump be pushing so hard that it's damaging to the fittings / blocks? And how would I go about fixing that without running an extra pump and an extra heat exchanger?

[AnonymousGuy]

Ahh I think this might be a mistake I was making then, as I assumed head pressure was only the pressure involved in getting the water to go to it's highest point, and not much involved with the water coming back in the other direction.

 

Edit:

 

 

Well the most my system has ever kicked out...ever.. is 600w of heat.

From what you're suggesting though, it really feels like it will overall, be more expensive to run a separate heat exchanger vs the cost of running good quality tubing (I know that's not the only point you were making, but all in all, it seems more expensive right now). If this was a more large-scale setup, I'd easily agree with you.

Here's a better question for the moment. Is there a pump, or series of pumps, or w/e that could provide the right amount of head pressure, and not be damaging to the blocks / fittings? The system will absolutely be clean, and fit w/ quick disconnects in case I HAVE to clean anything.

 

 

Run two D5-Strong pumps in series and use 19V laptop AC chargers to get closer to the 24V max those pumps support (no need to spend $40+ to buy "real" 24V power supplies).  That's as much pressure as I would run through waterblocks.

[AnonymousGuy]

So, just so I understand this correctly, if the pump I use provides say, 12 feet of head pressure, and I'm pushing for like...7-8, why would the industrial pump be pushing so hard that it's damaging to the fittings / blocks? And how would I go about fixing that without running an extra pump and an extra heat exchanger?

 

The tubing is going to be adding restriction and you still have the restriction from your waterblocks in addition to the head pressure needed to move water up a floor.  See comment above you can probably get away with 2 D5-Strong pumps in series.

[AntVenom]

Run two D5-Strong pumps in series and use 19V laptop AC chargers to get closer to the 24V max those pumps support (no need to spend $40+ to buy "real" 24V power supplies).  That's as much pressure as I would run through waterblocks.

A d-5 strong pump (from what I'm seeing), is labeled for 19 feet of head pressure. Why would I need two? Just making sure I understand, since I only need to push at MOST, 8 feet up. Even considering going downward, thats 16-18 feet in total.

What I might do, is use a variable d-5 pump in the system, set to 1/5 speed, and use a strong pump in the basement. So I'll have a silent pump in the system, but a strong one in the basement.

[gamerking]

if its closed fully no air getting thru  anyway for the water not to move other then the way you want the head pressure is how far it can push thur a tube . since you want to go closed loop with a open res the water natural will want to go to the lowest point . in simple terms want to leave the pc dry . if your input on the  res/output is below the water level you can stop that to a degree

 

if its above the res the input  any fluid in the tube will drain once the pump is turned off . so if you do that make sure the water that leave's the pc is coming out the highest point/above the cpu block so you dont have heat issues when starting the pc .

Ahh I think this might be a mistake I was making then, as I assumed head pressure was only the pressure involved in getting the water to go to it's highest point, and not much involved with the water coming back in the other direction.

this is about the same thing you will have on a larger size on the top of the res is the return inside the res there is metal pipe coming from the top cap that makes the water return below the current lvl if it wasnt in it will fill the res all the way up since the fluid would want to come back to the res natural since its lower then the rad/cpu block.

what are you using as a res btw

[AnonymousGuy]

A d-5 strong pump (from what I'm seeing), is labeled for 19 feet of head pressure. Why would I need two? Just making sure I understand, since I only need to push at MOST, 8 feet up. Even considering going downward, thats 16-18 feet in total.

 

It's 19 feet @ 24V.  24V is relatively more difficult to come by.  It's only 10 feet @ 12V: http://koolance.com/pmp-450s-pump-id-13mm-1-2in

 

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Battery-Charger-ASUS-3-42A/dp/B004JI3PF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434938813&sr=8-1&keywords=19v+laptop+charger

 

Cut the head off, solder a pair of molex connectors on to it (yellow wire to the red wire on the charger), and then you have a sweet + cheap 19V power supply.  If you run 2 pumps off one of these, it will get hot, but I ran it like that for a year without issue.

[AntVenom]

It's 19 feet @ 24V.  24V is relatively more difficult to come by.  It's only 10 feet @ 12V: http://koolance.com/pmp-450s-pump-id-13mm-1-2in

 

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Battery-Charger-ASUS-3-42A/dp/B004JI3PF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434938813&sr=8-1&keywords=19v+laptop+charger

 

Cut the head off, solder a pair of molex connectors on to it (yellow wire to the red wire on the charger), and then you have a sweet + cheap 19V power supply.  If you run 2 pumps off one of these, it will get hot, but I ran it like that for a year without issue.

Ahh okay. I was looking here, where this one is labeled for 19 feet. https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dazmode_storm_d5_strong_8-24v_pump/(just googled for it)

[AnonymousGuy]

Fun fact, I tried running 2 of those PMP-450S's in series @ 19V and 1 regular D5 pump @ 12V also in series (for 3 pumps total)...not even joking it blew my tubing off the barb and that was WITH a hose clamp on it.  That's why when I say don't run more than 2 in series I'm not kidding

 

Fortunately there was so much pressure the coolant ended up shooting out of the case like a fountain so none got on any of the internals.

[spwath]

Res will need to be higher that CPU to make it easier

[AntVenom]

Res will need to be higher that CPU to make it easier

We'll see when the time comes, but the main res will NOT be higher than the cpu block. That's also, part of the point of this project. I don't mind always keeping the main pump on, if it's rated for it.