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b1 vs b2 vs g1 s g2 evga plz help

danial9
By danial9
in Power Supplies
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i want 750w  for tx 970 sil nad i7 4790k  best vale for bucks

---Me Rig---

-CPU- 

Intel i7 4790k

-GPU- 

Gigabyte 970 g1

-STORAGE- 

250gb ssd

Western Digital 1tb HDD

-RAM- 

(2x4gb) 

-PSU- 

EVGA supernova 850w gold+

-MOBO- 

ASUS z97-a

-CASE-

Some ATX Sized No-Brand

-PERIPHERALS-

Some Mouse and Keyboard.

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EVGA G2 750W

RIG: I7-4790k @ 4.5GHz | MSI Z97S SLI Plus | 12GB Geil Dragon RAM 1333MHz | Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 970 (1550MHz core/7800MHz memory) @ +18mV(Maxed out at 1650/7800 so far) | Corsair RM750 | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB, 1TB Seagate Barracuda | Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Closed) | Sound Blaster Z                                                                                                                        Getting: Noctua NH-D15 | Possible 250GB Samsung 850 Evo                                                                                        Need a console killer that actually shits on every console? Here you go (No MIR/Promo)

This is why you should not get an FX CPU for ANY scenario other than rendering on a budget http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/286142-fx-8350-r9-290-psu-requirements/?p=3892901 | http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/266481-an-issue-with-people-bashing-the-fx-cpus/?p=3620861

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The 1 series is multi-rail. 2 series is single rail. B series is bronze rated. G series is gold rated. So the G2 is best.

Spoiler

Prometheus (Main Rig)

CPU-Z Verification

Laptop: 

Spoiler

Intel Core i3-5005U, 8GB RAM, Crucial MX 100 128GB, Touch-Screen, Intel 7260 WiFi/Bluetooth card.

 Phone:

Spoiler

TruPureX, Asus Zenwatch 3.

 Game Consoles:

Spoiler

Softmodded Fat PS2 w/ 80GB HDD, and a Dreamcast.

 

If you want my attention quote my post, or tag me. If you don't use PCPartPicker I will ignore your build.

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B1 = FSP Raider

B2 = Cost down version of the Super Flower Golden Green

G1 = FSP Aurum Gold (with the exception of the 1000w G1 which should be a modified FSP Aurum Pro)

G2 = Super Flower Leadex.

 

For a 750w unit, it's G2 > B2 > G1 > B1, as such, I would recommend the G2 or the B2 depending on the price. Which the B2 is priced very well atm for $49.99 after MIR - making it an excellent value (probably the best at this price range atm). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

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i want 750w  for tx 970 sil nad i7 4790k  best vale for bucks

Any of the Superflower made units are the ones you want. The Gold and Platinum models are the best, followed by the Bronze which is based on a different platform (As explained by quan above)

 

This link shows you the models and oem (Manufacturer) for each one.

 

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm

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You already posted this. The G2 is the best value.

Spoiler

Prometheus (Main Rig)

CPU-Z Verification

Laptop: 

Spoiler

Intel Core i3-5005U, 8GB RAM, Crucial MX 100 128GB, Touch-Screen, Intel 7260 WiFi/Bluetooth card.

 Phone:

Spoiler

TruPureX, Asus Zenwatch 3.

 Game Consoles:

Spoiler

Softmodded Fat PS2 w/ 80GB HDD, and a Dreamcast.

 

If you want my attention quote my post, or tag me. If you don't use PCPartPicker I will ignore your build.

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The b1 and g1 one are old designs that don't even come close to stacking up to the new superflower designs the old ones are meh. The b2' and g2's are a bit more expensive but worth it. If you want to cheap out on a power supply get the rosewill capstone. If you are running a single card setup with the exception of an 8350/290x combo the 450w capstone is 35 after rebate on newegg. Definitely better than the older evga stuff as the capstone is again of superflower design.

Ryzen 3700x -Evga RTX 2080 Super- Msi x570 Gaming Edge - G.Skill Ripjaws 3600Mhz RAM - EVGA SuperNova G3 750W -500gb 970 Evo - 250Gb Samsung 850 Evo - 250Gb Samsung 840 Evo  - 4Tb WD Blue- NZXT h500 - ROG Swift PG348Q

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  • Author

Any of the Superflower made units are the ones you want. The Gold and Platinum models are the best, followed by the Bronze which is based on a different platform (As explained by quan above)

 

This link shows you the models and oem (Manufacturer) for each one.

 

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm

 

 

B1 = FSP Raider

B2 = Cost down version of the Super Flower Golden Green

G1 = FSP Aurum Gold (with the exception of the 1000w G1 which should be a modified FSP Aurum Pro)

G2 = Super Flower Leadex.

 

For a 750w unit, it's G2 > B2 > G1 > B1, as such, I would recommend the G2 or the B2 depending on the price. Which the B2 is priced very well atm for $49.99 after MIR - making it an excellent value (probably the best at this price range atm). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

 

 

The 1 series is multi-rail. 2 series is single rail. B series is bronze rated. G series is gold rated. So the G2 is best.

 

 

2/3 or 4 way SLI?

 

 

B = 80+ Bronze-rated (2nd lowest, lowest being 80+ for ratings above N/A), G = 80+ Gold-rated.

G1/B1 were the first generation/revision of the product.

Hope that helps. EVGA power supplies are great.

 

 

wat?

 

 

EVGA G2 750W

thank you all for ur answers, i am new to pc , can u plz tell me waht is difference between 2 rail and 1 rail

---Me Rig---

-CPU- 

Intel i7 4790k

-GPU- 

Gigabyte 970 g1

-STORAGE- 

250gb ssd

Western Digital 1tb HDD

-RAM- 

(2x4gb) 

-PSU- 

EVGA supernova 850w gold+

-MOBO- 

ASUS z97-a

-CASE-

Some ATX Sized No-Brand

-PERIPHERALS-

Some Mouse and Keyboard.

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B1 and G1 are much worse in terms of build quality. They are still decent PSUs though. If you are making a purvhasing decision now, definitely go with the B/G 2 series.

Spoiler

Samung Tab S 8.4

 

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thank you all for ur answers, i am new to pc , can u plz tell me waht is difference between 2 rail and 1 rail

Single Rail vs Multi Rail PC Power Supplies as Fast As Possible 1 rail is recommended, but it doesn't really matter. The G2 is best though.

Spoiler

Prometheus (Main Rig)

CPU-Z Verification

Laptop: 

Spoiler

Intel Core i3-5005U, 8GB RAM, Crucial MX 100 128GB, Touch-Screen, Intel 7260 WiFi/Bluetooth card.

 Phone:

Spoiler

TruPureX, Asus Zenwatch 3.

 Game Consoles:

Spoiler

Softmodded Fat PS2 w/ 80GB HDD, and a Dreamcast.

 

If you want my attention quote my post, or tag me. If you don't use PCPartPicker I will ignore your build.

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thank you all for ur answers, i am new to pc , can u plz tell me waht is difference between 2 rail and 1 rail

 

Here's an older post I had made.

"Single rail vs multi-rails PSUs refers to how the +12v is configured.

 

A single rail is a bit more "practical" as you can make full use of the total output of the +12v rail without needing to worry about having to accidentally trip off the Over Current Protection (OCP) in any sort of configuration. In theory you can output the entirety of the +12v capability on a single connector. On the other hand, a multi-rail say "no, you can't used the entirety of the 12v on single connector" and limits the amount of current passing through a set of cables via multiple of OCP points. Think of multirail units like the circuit box inside your house.

 

Some people preferred single rail, as they don't have to worry about accidentally setting the OCP off with a demanding system with a heavy overclock. While on a multi-rail unit, even if you have 1000w (~83A) on the +12v total, a poorly configured MR will not allow you to make full used of that 1000w. Let's say one the 12v is rated for 25A (300w) and it is monitor two PEGs connectors for your GPUs. The MSI GTX 780 Ti in this review will be able to power on that rail (the PCIe slot is also supplying to the card which is being supply from the +12v wire on the 24-pin that is from another +12v rail); however, some manufacturers didn't do this properly and have the CPU draw power from it as well, cause it to go over the OCP limits, and the PSU will shut off despite having capability to outputting more.

 

Of course, a quality modern day multi-rail PSU will be configured in such a way that no matter how you plugged in the cables, you should not set off the OCP aside from those are pushing their system to the limits with heavy overclocks under LN2 or such. If you so happen to set it off even under normal system, you can simply move the cables around to get around it.

 

The purpose of MR units are to add an extra layer of safety. If by some chance you actually pull the entirety of the 12v on a single connector on a high wattage single rail, something is going to be burn/melt/damage/etc, while a MR will limit that to a more safer range and hopefully prevent any major damage to occur. An example of this issues will be here (note the ending of that post, as it states if you happen to have a SR unit, you don't need to flip out and get a different unit)"

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Sick post by Quan right there.

That's about all the info you need in one topic, Danial. Everything here pretty much covers the EVGA power supplies' differences top to bottom.

NVidia in a nutshell


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