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12 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Do 2.5" laptop HDDs have a temperature range for long-term storage without risk of demagnetization of the platters causing data loss and corruption? Or does any temperature above 25C slowly cause the platters to demagnetize?

The data sheets for Seagate BarraCuda 2.5-inch HDDs says they a Nonoperating Temperature of -40°C to 70°C.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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Huh? Do you live on the Sun?

 

image.png.19c39ce9c7c1fb002e5c2a2b7c77833d.png

 

 

See this:

image.png.fe8ce46ad23ebb79844fb8cc64eec405.png

 

 

  • I'm sure you'll be fine unless you plan to keep your PC on Antarctica or outside on Sahara desert.

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Feel free: To ask any question, no matter what question it is, I will try to answer. I know a lot about PCs but not everything.

current PC:

Ryzen 5 5600 |16GB DDR4 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti [further details on my profile]

PC configs I used before:

  1. Pentium G4500 | 4GB/8GB DDR4 2133Mhz | H110 | GTX 1050
  2. Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz / OC:4Ghz | 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz / 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1050
  3. Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz | 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti
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14 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Do 2.5" laptop HDDs have a temperature range for long-term storage without risk of demagnetization of the platters causing data loss and corruption? Or does any temperature above 25C slowly cause the platters to demagnetize?

I'd replace any 2.5" HDD on a laptop with a SATA SSD, it makes no sense to keep those awfully slow drives now except on NAS 

AMD R9  7950X3D CPU/ Asus ROG STRIX X670E-E board/ 2x32GB G-Skill Trident Z Neo 6000CL30 RAM ASUS TUF Gaming AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX OC Edition GPU/ Phanteks P600S case /  Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 ARGB cooler/  2TB WD SN850 NVme + 2TB Crucial T500  NVme  + 4TB Toshiba X300 HDD / Corsair RM850x PSU/ Alienware AW3420DW 34" 120Hz 3440x1440p monitor / ASUS ROG AZOTH keyboard/ Logitech G PRO X Superlight mouse / Audeze Maxwell headphones

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3 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

I'd replace any 2.5" HDD on a laptop with a SATA SSD, it makes no sense to keep those awfully slow drives now except on NAS 

It wouldn't even be that expensive to buy SATA SSDs for RAID storage, just make sure it's not SSD that has like low write-durability. (or maybe it would actually, depends what is your budget)

Note: Users receive notifications after Mentions & Quotes. 

Feel free: To ask any question, no matter what question it is, I will try to answer. I know a lot about PCs but not everything.

current PC:

Ryzen 5 5600 |16GB DDR4 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti [further details on my profile]

PC configs I used before:

  1. Pentium G4500 | 4GB/8GB DDR4 2133Mhz | H110 | GTX 1050
  2. Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz / OC:4Ghz | 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz / 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1050
  3. Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz | 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti
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2 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

I'd replace any 2.5" HDD on a laptop with a SATA SSD, it makes no sense to keep those awfully slow drives now except on NAS 

Just now, podkall said:

It wouldn't even be that expensive to buy SATA SSDs for RAID storage, just make sure it's not SSD that has like low write-durability.

This is a good upgrade idea, but given the question, I suspect his real intentions for the drive may not involve a laptop.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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Does the Curie temperature have anything to do with the magnetic materials used in the platters of 2.5" HDDs or does the Curie temperature only have anything to do with other types of more resistant magnetic materials that are not available in 2.5" laptop HDDs?

 

my home temperature is 36C quicly loss magnetize in platters 2.5" hdd? humidity influence?

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2 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Does the Curie temperature have anything to do with the magnetic materials used in the platters of 2.5" HDDs or does the Curie temperature only have anything to do with other types of more resistant magnetic materials that are not available in 2.5" laptop HDDs?

 

my home temperature is 36C quicly loss magnetize in platters 2.5" hdd? humidity influence?

My NAS is in a shed that often reaches 40C and I've not seen any issues. As I said above:

15 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

The data sheets for Seagate BarraCuda 2.5-inch HDDs says they a Nonoperating Temperature of -40°C to 70°C.

You will be fine.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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5 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Seagate ST500LM030

–40C to 70C

6 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

WD10JPVX-08JC3T5

<60°C

7 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

HGST HTS541010A99E662

-40° to 65° C

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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1 hour ago, PDifolco said:

I'd replace any 2.5" HDD on a laptop with a SATA SSD, it makes no sense to keep those awfully slow drives now except on NAS 

It is unclear what use they are have at all.

Those available now seem to all be SMR (Shingled Magnetic Recording).

Their use in a NAS is dubious.

 

Main Machine: CPU: 5800X3D  RAM: 64GB  GPU: RTX 3080  M/B: ASUS B550-E Storage: 2 x 256GB NVME boot, 4 TB NVME OS: Windows 10, Ubuntu 22.04

Server1:  Dell optiplex 3060  micro  CPU: i5-8500T  RAM: 32GB OS: Proxmox  Virtual Machines: Opnsense,  Ubuntu, Windows LXC containers: netboot server, jellyfin, lancache

Server2: CPU: i7-3770  RAM: 32GB M/B Z77 extreme6   OS:  Truenas scale (16TB logical storage)

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1 hour ago, cloudff7 said:

Do 2.5" laptop HDDs have a temperature range for long-term storage without risk of demagnetization of the platters causing data loss and corruption? Or does any temperature above 25C slowly cause the platters to demagnetize?

All drives can suffer from data corruption.

It is obviously a good ideal to keep it within the operating temperature. It will depend on the drive.

 

I suggest staying well clear of 2.5 inch hard drives.

After a quick check, all the newish ones are all SMR.

With their already poor read speeds, the write speeds will be dismally slow if doing anything challenging.

 

 

 

 

Main Machine: CPU: 5800X3D  RAM: 64GB  GPU: RTX 3080  M/B: ASUS B550-E Storage: 2 x 256GB NVME boot, 4 TB NVME OS: Windows 10, Ubuntu 22.04

Server1:  Dell optiplex 3060  micro  CPU: i5-8500T  RAM: 32GB OS: Proxmox  Virtual Machines: Opnsense,  Ubuntu, Windows LXC containers: netboot server, jellyfin, lancache

Server2: CPU: i7-3770  RAM: 32GB M/B Z77 extreme6   OS:  Truenas scale (16TB logical storage)

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1 hour ago, cloudff7 said:

Do 2.5" laptop HDDs have a temperature range for long-term storage without risk of demagnetization of the platters causing data loss and corruption? Or does any temperature above 25C slowly cause the platters to demagnetize?

don't know where you heard that, utter nonsense.

Yes, you can use them for long term storage.

HDD's are MUCH more reliable for "sitting on a shelf storage" than SSD's.

I have a HDD over 22 years old that I had no problem reading all the data from and it is still functional now.

Others that I have are about 15 years old and all reports show they are in good health with no issues.

Like to see an SSD retain data for 20+ years.

 

If it's a drive you have laying around and it tests good, sure use it for storage.

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4 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

Does the temperature range in these 2.5" HDDs mentioned have a direct relationship with the demagnetization of the platters or only with the preservation of the PCB, motors and oil?

The temp ranges listed take all possible failures into account, including demagnetization. Leaving those temp ranges will reduce the lifetime of the drive.

 

However, no drive is perfect. Is the data your storing mission critical? Have you considered a backup strategy?

 

Can I ask why your so focused on demagnetization? Data loss is far more likely to occur is so many other ways.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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I saw on the internet that it is possible to demagnetize 2.5" HDDs at high temperatures, which is why where I live it is 36°C, so I thought about researching and asking about magnetic loss in 2.5" HDDs. Does humidity also influence the demagnetization of the platters?

 

I asked Seagate and WD and they didn't answer, maybe the attendants don't have technical knowledge of HDDs, just basic information.

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

Does humidity also influence the demagnetization of the platters?

Well, as I said, I keep my NAS in a shed. I also live in the UK (near the coast), so if humidity was an issue for HDDs, I'd be screwed.

 

7 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

I saw on the internet that it is possible to demagnetize 2.5" HDDs at high temperatures, which is why where I live it is 36°C, so I thought about researching and asking about magnetic loss in 2.5" HDDs.

Your going to need much higher temperatures than 36C.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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I couldn't find the datasheet for the HGST HTS541010A99E662. I found the others.

 

 

In my case, is it more important to follow the operating temperature or the non-operating temperature? Here at my house, the temperature is 36C during the operation of the 2.5" HDDs inside the USB 3.0 case. I don't usually check the maximum temperature that the HDD reaches, but if it goes over 60C, does any loss of magnetization occur?

 

 

Here the humidity is high, it varies from 60 to 71%. I know it is bad for oxidation, but I don't know if this humidity causes demagnetization. I access the drives once a year. in datasheet not shows humiity range

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

if it goes over 60C, does any loss of magnetization occur?

It shouldn't.

 

1 minute ago, cloudff7 said:

is it more important to follow the operating temperature or the non-operating temperature?

When the drive is running you should follow the operating temperatures. When it isn't, keep to the non-operating temperature.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

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Storing 2.5" laptop HDDs within a few centimeters of a 29" CRT TV and SATA DVD drives causes the HDDs to become unusable and lose data?

 

operation temperature and non-operation temperature in datasheet have a direct relationship with the demagnetization of 2.5" HDDs? Does this happen outside the range?

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

Storing 2.5" laptop HDDs within a few centimeters of a 29" CRT TV and SATA DVD drives causes the HDDs to become unusable and lose data?

CRT TVs contain a magnets to redirect electrons towards the phosphers on the screen. Now, HDDs are actually somewhat resistant to magnets, and the magnets in CRTs are not super strong. However, I would still suggest you keep drives away from CRTs, or anything containing magnets more generally.

 

SATA DVD drives are used in close proximity to HDDs all the time and have been for years. There is no issue here.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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The 29" CRT TV remains a few centimeters next to the closet inside the closet drawer. I store the 2.5" laptop HDD inside a USB 3.0 case and inside the Orico box. When I handle the HDD and remove it from the drawer on the way to the bedroom, I pass in front of the 29" CRT TV, which is turned off.

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3 minutes ago, cloudff7 said:

The 29" CRT TV remains a few centimeters next to the closet inside the closet drawer. I store the 2.5" laptop HDD inside a USB 3.0 case and inside the Orico box. When I handle the HDD and remove it from the drawer on the way to the bedroom, I pass in front of the 29" CRT TV, which is turned off.

You do know that harddrives have quite strong magnets inside of them right? If they are not affected by their own magnets, they will not be affected by a TV.

 

As an experiment, take something metal like a screw or other object that is attracted to a magnet. Try to put it on the side of the TV. Does it stick? No. TV's are usually quite well shielded.

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Just now, cloudff7 said:

TV CRT big 29" is strong demagnetize hdds 2.5"?

No. I mean don't test it, but it will be fine.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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