Jump to content

Experiencing problems undervolting a 5000 series GPU. I followed multiple guides, I adjust the voltage curve but my GPU clock drops substantially

I asked recently if some guides on undervolting a 5000 series GPU were still valid and accurate, I received a few responses on this forum and others saying that they were good guides and I should have no problems following them.

This is one of the guides I followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPR06CxysMw

 

I followed them to the letter, checked my gpu clock and voltage in games and benchmarks then used MSI Afterburner to change the curve. I dropped about 50 mV at the same maximum clock then applied it after flattening out the rest of the curve.

However, when I then run games or benchmarks, my GPU voltage has dropped about the 50mV, but my GPU clock have dropped by 200+ MHz. And no matter what I do, no matter how I change the curve the clocks will not go back up unless I just reset the curve. If I try to reduce the voltage even more, the clocks just continue dropping.

 

Can anyone help me with what I'm doing wrong or what I'm missing, please? All of the guides I read and watched said that doing it this way, my GPU clocks would stay the same but at a slightly lower voltage.

 

Edit to add some numbers and context. I ran multiple games and benchmarks and my clock speed seemed to be 2820 MHz @1.040v. I set the curve to 0.990v @ 2820MHz. But when I load into a game or bench, my voltage is around .990-1.005v but my clock has dropped to 2600MHz.

I tried to increase the clock on the same voltage, 2950mhz @0.990v. But in-game the clock stays the same, 2600(ish) MHz or even less. And if I try 2820 MHz at let's say 0.960v my clock drops to 2400 MHz or less.

Gaming PC Specs:

Spoiler

(Portal 2 Theme) 

CPU: AMD 9800X3D (Heatkiller Pro VI Black Copper waterblock) 

GPU: Palit RTX 5090 Gamerock (Heatkiller V Ultra Nickel waterblock) 

• RAM: 64GB 6400MHz CL30 Kingston Fury Beast (A-Die) 

Case: Lian Li V3000 Plus (White edition)

Motherboard: ASRock X870 Steel Legend

OS Drive: 4TB WD Black SN850X 

Game Drives: 2x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro 

Media Drive: 8TB Samsung 870 QVO 

PSU: Corsair HX1500i (2025 edition) 

Radiators: 3x EK X480M Radiators & 1x EK X360M XFlow 

Fittings: Bykski Anti-Off Sleeve White Rigid 

Pumps: 2x EK V3 D5 Pumps in Monsoon MMRS Pump Housing 

Reservoirs: 2x HeatKiller Tube 200 

Tubing: Corsair PMMA Satin 14mm Hydro XT 


Work PC Specs:

Spoiler

(No theme yet) • Ryzen 5900X • 64GB 3600MHz CL16 Team Group Dark Pro (B-Dies) • ASUS X570-E Gaming • EK Quantum Plexi Monoblock  MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X  EK Quantum Plexi Block 1TB Samsung 980 Pro 4TB Samsung 870 QVO  Corsair RM 850X 2x XSPC EX480 Radiators PrimoChill Fittings  1x XSPC D5 200mm Pump Res combo  Thermaltake Core P8 case until I decide on which smaller case I want to use.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I will apologise in advance if I'm missing something incredibly obvious, can't see the wood for the trees type thing. Although I've been an enthusiast for a few decades, I've always bumped up voltage and overclocked, this is the first time I've ever undervolted a card so it's completely new territory for me.

Gaming PC Specs:

Spoiler

(Portal 2 Theme) 

CPU: AMD 9800X3D (Heatkiller Pro VI Black Copper waterblock) 

GPU: Palit RTX 5090 Gamerock (Heatkiller V Ultra Nickel waterblock) 

• RAM: 64GB 6400MHz CL30 Kingston Fury Beast (A-Die) 

Case: Lian Li V3000 Plus (White edition)

Motherboard: ASRock X870 Steel Legend

OS Drive: 4TB WD Black SN850X 

Game Drives: 2x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro 

Media Drive: 8TB Samsung 870 QVO 

PSU: Corsair HX1500i (2025 edition) 

Radiators: 3x EK X480M Radiators & 1x EK X360M XFlow 

Fittings: Bykski Anti-Off Sleeve White Rigid 

Pumps: 2x EK V3 D5 Pumps in Monsoon MMRS Pump Housing 

Reservoirs: 2x HeatKiller Tube 200 

Tubing: Corsair PMMA Satin 14mm Hydro XT 


Work PC Specs:

Spoiler

(No theme yet) • Ryzen 5900X • 64GB 3600MHz CL16 Team Group Dark Pro (B-Dies) • ASUS X570-E Gaming • EK Quantum Plexi Monoblock  MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X  EK Quantum Plexi Block 1TB Samsung 980 Pro 4TB Samsung 870 QVO  Corsair RM 850X 2x XSPC EX480 Radiators PrimoChill Fittings  1x XSPC D5 200mm Pump Res combo  Thermaltake Core P8 case until I decide on which smaller case I want to use.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Euphoria said:

I will apologise in advance if I'm missing something incredibly obvious, can't see the wood for the trees type thing. Although I've been an enthusiast for a few decades, I've always bumped up voltage and overclocked, this is the first time I've ever undervolted a card so it's completely new territory for me.

Can you post a screenshot of your curve (the one you think is closest to what the tutorial told you)?

 

And maybe... you're missing something, possibly - yes, you can get higher clocks by undervolting but it's not guaranteed at all, typically the goal is to lower temps - which on many cards results in higher clocks, but not on all cards.

 

Did the temps at least become lower? 😁

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think one trick is to make the curve as conservative as possible, don't bump up frequencies... Let it where the default curve would be then flatten it at the desired voltage.

 

Then test for stability.

 

Aka that *is* your goal, lower voltages than default, lower temps than default, "around the same" frequencies than default, it's totally ok if they're a bit lower...

 

 

THEN

 

ONLY THEN, IF YOU'RE *SURE* IT'S STABLE.

 

THEN you take your curve (pro tip: you can grab the whole thing) and BUMP IT UP. ⬆️

 

 

THEN YOU TEST FOR STABILITY....

 

And so on, until you either crash or actually managed to get higher frequencies.

 

And then you test for clock stretching, aka benchmarks compared to default or your initial undervolt.

 

Because clock stretching is a thing, higher frequencies doesn't necessarily mean better performance!

 

 

UNDERVOLTING IS FUN!  

 

to me ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯

 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your replies and for taking the time.

 

Quote

Can you post a screenshot of your curve (the one you think is closest to what the tutorial told you)?

Sure thing, I've attached a screenshot. The stock clock and voltage were 2820 MHz @1.040v, So I kept the same clock but dropped it 50mV to 0.990v.

 

Quote

Did the temps at least become lower? 😁

Yes, the temps did go down a little, which was nice, but the clock speed dropping as well means I'm dropping quite a bit of performance as it's 200+mhz, which is not what I was trying to achieve. I understand it's not guaranteed but I was hoping to reduce the voltage slightly but keep the same clock speeds.

 

Quote

Aka that *is* your goal, lower voltages than default, lower temps than default, "around the same" frequencies than default, it's totally ok if they're a bit lower...

Yes, that's exactly it. I don't really want to overclock the card because it's already pushing the limits of this stupid 12VHPWR connector. I just want to reduce the voltage a little but keep the same clock speeds. If I could drop 50 or 60 mV and maybe the clock speeds stayed the same or dropped a little, I'd be fine with that, but as soon as I touch the curve, it seems to immediately drop the clock speeds by 200+ mhz.

 

I used to love overclocking and spending hours and hours over weeks dialling in voltage bumps, custom bios, even shunt mods back in the day. But I don't have the time anymore, plus as I mentioned, I don't want to pull any more power through that dumb 12 V connector

Screenshot 2025-05-15 193116.png

Gaming PC Specs:

Spoiler

(Portal 2 Theme) 

CPU: AMD 9800X3D (Heatkiller Pro VI Black Copper waterblock) 

GPU: Palit RTX 5090 Gamerock (Heatkiller V Ultra Nickel waterblock) 

• RAM: 64GB 6400MHz CL30 Kingston Fury Beast (A-Die) 

Case: Lian Li V3000 Plus (White edition)

Motherboard: ASRock X870 Steel Legend

OS Drive: 4TB WD Black SN850X 

Game Drives: 2x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro 

Media Drive: 8TB Samsung 870 QVO 

PSU: Corsair HX1500i (2025 edition) 

Radiators: 3x EK X480M Radiators & 1x EK X360M XFlow 

Fittings: Bykski Anti-Off Sleeve White Rigid 

Pumps: 2x EK V3 D5 Pumps in Monsoon MMRS Pump Housing 

Reservoirs: 2x HeatKiller Tube 200 

Tubing: Corsair PMMA Satin 14mm Hydro XT 


Work PC Specs:

Spoiler

(No theme yet) • Ryzen 5900X • 64GB 3600MHz CL16 Team Group Dark Pro (B-Dies) • ASUS X570-E Gaming • EK Quantum Plexi Monoblock  MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X  EK Quantum Plexi Block 1TB Samsung 980 Pro 4TB Samsung 870 QVO  Corsair RM 850X 2x XSPC EX480 Radiators PrimoChill Fittings  1x XSPC D5 200mm Pump Res combo  Thermaltake Core P8 case until I decide on which smaller case I want to use.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×