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As the title suggests - I'm trying to install some high powered LEDs for home accent lighting - the first time I tried this I wired the LED directly to the 12V supply, and the LEDs got so hot they melted the solder off .  I think what I'm missing here is a current-limiting resistor, but how do I go about selecting the right resistance?  

 

For reference, this is the LED I'm using:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cree-led/CHA0410-0000-000D0U0A30G/17627895?so=92202305&content=productdetail_US&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGZ-i1h91nJcfgXFG6-Jlp-Dq8_otqmq6m6JrhdRT2TCgj30RGlRO1WQsywGiimfmzQ_PBC_k5ULpDHXcUqhARqRU7jMHr4Zah1gAUFEulw5w

 

12V forward voltage, trying to shoot for 300-600mA driving current.  If I go by the usual resistor calculator for series LED, that gives me Vi-Vf = 12 - 12 = 0 so obviously not helpful in selecting a resistor.  Any help/insight would be appreciated.  Thanks!

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Are you using heatsinks? Normally, LEDs like these overheat rapidly if they are improperly cooled.

English is not my first language, so please excuse any confusion or misunderstandings on my end, also I like to edit my posts a lot.

 

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.- -- --- --. ..- ...

 

 

 

 

Hello!

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7 minutes ago, LEDMagicSmoke said:

No heatsinks - they were melting their solders within 10 seconds though - do they overheat that quickly without a heatsink?!

If they aren't being current limited so they draw whatever they feel like, they can go from room temp to 200°C very quickly, yes

English is not my first language, so please excuse any confusion or misunderstandings on my end, also I like to edit my posts a lot.

 

F@H-Stats (expand for machine specs)

The Folding rigs:

Rig 1:

CPU: 2x Xeon E5 2690 V3

Rig 2:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600

GPU: GTX 1080

Rig 3:

CPU: Core i7 4790K

GPU: GTX 1060 3GB

 

The Laptop (Lenovo Legion 5 15IAH7):

CPU: Core i5 12500H

RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) DDR5-4800

GPU: RTX 3050 Ti mobile

OS: Windows 11 Home

 

The Tablet:

Dell Latitude 7212 Rugged Extreme Tablet (Core i5 8350U/8GB RAM)

OS: Windows 11 Pro

 

 

.- -- --- --. ..- ...

 

 

 

 

Hello!

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1 hour ago, LEDMagicSmoke said:

As the title suggests - I'm trying to install some high powered LEDs for home accent lighting - the first time I tried this I wired the LED directly to the 12V supply, and the LEDs got so hot they melted the solder off .  I think what I'm missing here is a current-limiting resistor, but how do I go about selecting the right resistance?  

 

For reference, this is the LED I'm using:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cree-led/CHA0410-0000-000D0U0A30G/17627895?so=92202305&content=productdetail_US&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGZ-i1h91nJcfgXFG6-Jlp-Dq8_otqmq6m6JrhdRT2TCgj30RGlRO1WQsywGiimfmzQ_PBC_k5ULpDHXcUqhARqRU7jMHr4Zah1gAUFEulw5w

 

12V forward voltage, trying to shoot for 300-600mA driving current.  If I go by the usual resistor calculator for series LED, that gives me Vi-Vf = 12 - 12 = 0 so obviously not helpful in selecting a resistor.  Any help/insight would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Normally you want a constant current power supply to run these, not a resistor for a high power LED. They should make a lot of these for driving leds.

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two things:

 

1: these arent "12 volt" LED's, they require a 12 volt 900mA constant current LED driver.

2: you defenately need a heatsink for a LED like this.

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At least genuine Cree LEDs have a detailed datasheet so you can figure out the requirements. But yes as mentioned firstly it's not a 12V constant voltage supply but a proper 900mA constant current LED driver capable of about 14V min that you need, and a heatsink around 2K/W i.e something like the below per LED. 

 

image.jpeg.cc7c77c8f084952d97bf944eb25b2132.jpeg

 

You may be better off buying off the shelf 12V LED halogen replacements.

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From the specifications it doesn't indicate a current limit supply is necessary. However they will get hot or VERY hot. First thing to do would be check the real current with a 12 volt supply to see what is actually happening. Do it quickly, or VERY quickly.

Current - Test 525mA
Temperature - Test 85°C
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 12V

 

Full documentation is here -

https://downloads.cree-led.com/files/ds/x/XLamp-CHA0410.pdf

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6 hours ago, RollyShed said:

From the specifications it doesn't indicate a current limit supply is necessary.

That's how leds work. You're kinda suppoed to know such basics.

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Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

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6 hours ago, Kilrah said:

That's how leds work. You're kinda suppoed to know such basics.

What I am saying is the item is likely to have a current limiter built in. Yes, a bare LED needs a current limited supply but this is a complicated unit by the look of it and by the specifications given.

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Nope, just a bare LED. Multi-chip but that doesn't matter, it's got the characteristics of a LED.

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Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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