Help planning to build a new personal PC/workstation ($1800 USD)

[brob]

2 hours ago, eclectic said:

 

a) The motherboard might be overpriced. I want to go with x870 chipset. Could you suggest any other alternative x870 chipset mobo that doesn't compromise on performance but have a lower price. 

 

The original requirements was for two GPU, is that no longer the case?

 

2 hours ago, eclectic said:

 

b) the spec sheet of ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 says the total thickness is 63 mm while the H7 Flow asks for clearance of 57 mm for top radiator + fans as 57 mm. I want a good liquid cooler and a good airflow case with multiple case fans like H7 Flow, as the simulations might rung for long hours to keep the thermals down. For context some simulation takes upto 3 days to complete, on my current PC. Could you please suggest a good combination for the above.

 

The Lian Li 216 might work depending on the number and size of the GPU. Otherwise you might look at larger cases like the Fractal Design North XL. Of course a viable alternative is to select an AIO with a normal thickness radiator.

 

[fabians_life]

23 hours ago, eclectic said:

After researching on some finite element analysis forums, I am going with AMD Ryzen 9 9950X. 

 

My updated build: Would love your opinion on the updated build before I make the purchase. Also, I have two concerns:

 

a) The motherboard might be overpriced. I want to go with x870 chipset. Could you suggest any other alternative x870 chipset mobo that doesn't compromise on performance but have a lower price. 

b) the spec sheet of ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 says the total thickness is 63 mm while the H7 Flow asks for clearance of 57 mm for top radiator + fans as 57 mm. I want a good liquid cooler and a good airflow case with multiple case fans like H7 Flow, as the simulations might rung for long hours to keep the thermals down. For context some simulation takes upto 3 days to complete, on my current PC. Could you please suggest a good combination for the above.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Jdrjgn

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X 4.3 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($526.00 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($87.59 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard  ($299.50 @ iBUYPOWER) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($333.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($99.99 @ Abt) 
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($64.98 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Zotac GAMING AMP GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB Video Card 
Case: NZXT H7 Flow (2024) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2024) 850 W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($129.99 @ Newegg) 

Depending on the feature set you need, you could go with a asrock mobo, like the x870 rs pro. From a pure CPU performance standpoint, a cheaper b850 wouldn't effect it, except if you plan to overclock. It may miss features, like 10g networking, wifi or extra pcie slots. I would go with a different case. According to reviews on nzxt website, the case doesn't come with 3,5" bays since 2024. For the case I would rather go with the Phanteks XT. There is a version with tempered glass and one without, which in general is more quiet, because it has thicker dampening. 

[eclectic]

On 5/2/2025 at 12:57 AM, podkall said:

What kind of performance are you expecting the X870 chipset to give you? If it's just to drive the parts and CPU, you can pick any B650/B850 motherboard that isn't super cheap.

 

Otherwise it's hard when the plan to run multiple GPUs, not that you couldn't, but mentioned earlier the amount of lanes available on the second slot of most motherboards is 1-4x

 

Some Motherboards have only 1x wiring/support on all other PCIe slots.

 

Here are some that have at least one 4x slot on the additional expansion slots:

ASRock B850 Pro-A

MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI

MSI PRO B850-P WIFI

Asus TUF GAMING B650-PLUS WIFI

 

 

• You can also give me models of few B650/B850/X870 and I can read the spec sheet about their PCIe slots, and check if their VRMs can handle 16+ core CPU.

I chose the X870 chipset after reading up on the AMD motherboard chipset tiers. The X870/X870E series were described as ideal for power users and future-proofing, which influenced my decision. It was also mentioned that the B series chipsets are more suited for moderate workloads, so I decided to avoid them.

That said, if there is no real performance tradeoff with the lower-tier boards for my use case, I would definitely consider them. Honestly, since this is my first PC build, I leaned toward the higher-tier option, thinking that more expensive might mean better.

 

 

As you asked for some motherboard models, I have reviewed the spec sheets of quite a few options and narrowed them down based on my understanding of the specifications. After confirming that these boards met the basic requirements such as support for at least 192 GB of memory, 4 RAM slots, a minimum of 3 M.2 slots, and at least 3 SATA ports; the main differentiating factors for my selection were as follows:

1. Price -- <250$

2. VRM -- 14+2+1/12+2+1 (selecting based on the understanding that the more the better)

3. PCIE Gen5 x16 -- At least 1 (for more powerful and advanced GPU)

4. PCIE Gen4 x4 -- at least one slot (uncovered)

MSI PRO B850-P WiFi

MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI

MSI PRO X870-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard

Asus PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI

Asus TUF GAMING X870-PLUS WIFI

Asrock X670E Pro RS 

ASRock B850 Pro-A 

Asrock Phantom Gaming B850 Riptide WiFi

 

These are the motherboards I have shortlisted, but after going through all the specifications, I am more confused than ever about which one to choose as all have some tradeoffs. Some say ASRock boards aren’t reliable, others talk about the “ASUS tax” on ASUS models and so on. At this point, I am honestly not sure what to pick. All I want is a solid, reliable motherboard but it is starting to feel like finding a needle in a haystack.

Feel free to suggest any other motherboard if you think these options might not be the best fit. 

 

 

 

Also, how to check if a motherboards' VRMs can handle 16+ core CPU?

 

On 5/2/2025 at 12:57 AM, podkall said:

Like a case+AIO or just AIO for the NZXT case?

 

I see lot of H7 Flow builds use LF III, in both 2022 and 2024 version of the case:

https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/4yMMnQ#h=262995,512960,512970,512964,578015

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/c7jBD3#h=512968,512960

 

Though I suppose it will be quite tight fit for the case, and maybe require to be assembled in certain order.

 

For AIO alternatives look at Thermalright brand, Deepcool could also work.

What I have understood from reading is that for AIO, the radiator + fan is 63mm thick but top clearance for case is not clear. It just says 57 mm.

 

Instead of H7 Flow (2024), I am going with Lian Li LANCOOL III ATX Mid Tower Case. For AIO, I am keeping the LF III. I am planning to use the case in following configuration -

1. Front mount - Included 3 x 140mm PWM fans (Intake)

2. Top mount - LF III radiator (Exhaust)

3. Rear mount - Included 1 x 140mm PWM fan (Exhaust)

4. Bottom mount - To be decided 3 x 120 mm PWM fans (Intake)

 

Could you please suggest a 3 x 120 mm PWM fan set?

 

 

I want to know how do we connect all these fans to the motherboard. I am asking this as I want to ensure that there are sufficient connectors in the motherboard for all the fans. For example, X870E Nova WiFi has following connectors 

 - 2 x CPU Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 3 x Chassis Fan Connectors (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 1 x AIO Pump Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 1 x Water Pump Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)

 

I am asking because I get that the AIO will go to AIO connector and front 3 x fans will connect to 3 x chasis fan connectors but where will I connect the rear (1 fan) and bottom (3 x fans)?  

On 5/2/2025 at 12:57 AM, podkall said:

I'd get different HDD though, if you want HDD. That specific HDD with that specific model number uses SMR technology, which is slightly outdated and can be slower, especially at writing or random read speeds.

 

If it's not the exact HDD you are buying, could you copy the part number? Should start with "WD":

 

Oh, I wasn’t aware that this HDD was considered outdated. Thanks for pointing that out. I had chosen it mainly to cut down on the overall build cost, since HDDs are generally cheaper than SSDs for the same storage capacity. If you could recommend a better HDD or SSD alternative, I would be more than happy to replace it.

On 5/2/2025 at 12:57 AM, podkall said:

What motherboard does that previous build use?

ASUS B250 MINING EXPERT. It is a mining motherboard and the GPUs were connected using riser cables. 

[eclectic]

On 5/2/2025 at 2:29 AM, brob said:

 

The original requirements was for two GPU, is that no longer the case?

 

After reviewing the motherboard specifications, I have realized that running two GPUs on a $250 motherboard is quite challenging due to several limitations, such as lane sharing and bandwidth constraints. Ideally, I wanted to install two GPUs, but now I am leaning toward building my system around a single good GPU from the perspective of future proofing, specifically the RTX 4070 Ti Super, which I plan to purchase in the future. If it can run 4070 Ti Super, it can run the 1660 Ti.

 

On 5/2/2025 at 2:29 AM, brob said:

 

The Lian Li 216 might work depending on the number and size of the GPU. Otherwise you might look at larger cases like the Fractal Design North XL. Of course a viable alternative is to select an AIO with a normal thickness radiator.

 

I am going with Lian Li LANCOOL III ATX Mid Tower Case. 

[podkall]

6 hours ago, eclectic said:

I chose the X870 chipset after reading up on the AMD motherboard chipset tiers. The X870/X870E series were described as ideal for power users and future-proofing, which influenced my decision. It was also mentioned that the B series chipsets are more suited for moderate workloads, so I decided to avoid them.

B series can be high-end, just because they're not labeled as ones doesn't mean they couldn't drive 32 core CPUs some of them (32core AM5 Ryzens don't exist)

 

6 hours ago, eclectic said:

That said, if there is no real performance tradeoff with the lower-tier boards for my use case, I would definitely consider them. Honestly, since this is my first PC build, I leaned toward the higher-tier option, thinking that more expensive might mean better.

Not really, more expensive just means you get X870 benefits, but if you don't use these benefits good B650 board would do same job.

 

And the amount of PCIe lanes, which is still only useful if you have enough GPUs, expansion careds and M.2 NVMEs, here's a chart that covers some of the feature differences:

 

 

 

 

Differences in PCIe lanes, USB layout, USB standards like USB 4.0 and SATA ports.

 

6 hours ago, eclectic said:

These are the motherboards I have shortlisted, but after going through all the specifications, I am more confused than ever about which one to choose as all have some tradeoffs. Some say ASRock boards aren’t reliable, others talk about the “ASUS tax” on ASUS models and so on. At this point, I am honestly not sure what to pick. All I want is a solid, reliable motherboard but it is starting to feel like finding a needle in a haystack.

Feel free to suggest any other motherboard if you think these options might not be the best fit. 

No, they're actually all good pick.

 

6 hours ago, eclectic said:

Also, how to check if a motherboards' VRMs can handle 16+ core CPU?

You don't, but you can draw approximation, because if one motherboard with certain layout can handle 16 core CPU the other with similar or better will too.

 

For example. ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 has 8+2+1 (+Dr.MOS) power phases, and it can handle 7950x without throttling the VRMs, because it was one of several Motherboards tested in at least one video.

 

So theoretically all you need is similar VRM layout and cooling as that motherboard if you want to drive 7950x.

 

So anything that has 12+2+1 for example, is already way better. With a good heatsink of course.

 

7 hours ago, eclectic said:

MSI PRO B850-P WiFi

MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI

MSI PRO X870-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard

Asus PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI

Asus TUF GAMING X870-PLUS WIFI

Asrock X670E Pro RS 

ASRock B850 Pro-A 

Asrock Phantom Gaming B850 Riptide WiFi

• MSI PRO B850-P WiFi: 12+2+1 phases
• MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI: 12+2+1 phases
• MSI PRO X870-P WIFI ATX AM5: 14+2+1 phases
• Asus PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI: 14+2+1 phases
• Asus TUF GAMING X870-PLUS WIFI: 16+2+1 phases
• Asrock X670E Pro RS: 14+2+1 phases
• ASRock B850 Pro-A: 12+2+1 phases
• Asrock Phantom Gaming B850 Riptide WiFi: 14+2+1 phases

 

7 hours ago, eclectic said:

These are the motherboards I have shortlisted, but after going through all the specifications, I am more confused than ever about which one to choose as all have some tradeoffs. Some say ASRock boards aren’t reliable, others talk about the “ASUS tax” on ASUS models and so on. At this point, I am honestly not sure what to pick. All I want is a solid, reliable motherboard but it is starting to feel like finding a needle in a haystack.

Feel free to suggest any other motherboard if you think these options might not be the best fit. 

There's no ASUS tax, people just like to complain, ASUS actually on average can have more expensive boards, because they have expensive features too.

 

For example TUF B650-PLUS is a really good board, used to be almost 200-180$ at launch, but then dipped close to 150-160$ price, for it's features very good.

 

12+2+1 phase design, and good temps:

 

 

7 hours ago, eclectic said:

Also, how to check if a motherboards' VRMs can handle 16+ core CPU?

You look up tests, this is a different video for example:

 

 

7 hours ago, eclectic said:

hat I have understood from reading is that for AIO, the radiator + fan is 63mm thick but top clearance for case is not clear. It just says 57 mm.

 

Instead of H7 Flow (2024), I am going with Lian Li LANCOOL III ATX Mid Tower Case. For AIO, I am keeping the LF III. I am planning to use the case in following configuration -

1. Front mount - Included 3 x 140mm PWM fans (Intake)

2. Top mount - LF III radiator (Exhaust)

3. Rear mount - Included 1 x 140mm PWM fan (Exhaust)

4. Bottom mount - To be decided 3 x 120 mm PWM fans (Intake)

Care that Lian Li LANCOOL III has also quite tight fit on big 360mm AIOs, but once again, should fit if you know how to slot it in

 

7 hours ago, eclectic said:

Could you please suggest a 3 x 120 mm PWM fan set?

You technically don't need bottom intake fans, and could buy them later, but:

Thermalright TL-C12C X3 3-Pack

Thermalright TL-C12C-S X3 3-Pack

 

8 hours ago, eclectic said:

I want to know how do we connect all these fans to the motherboard. I am asking this as I want to ensure that there are sufficient connectors in the motherboard for all the fans. For example, X870E Nova WiFi has following connectors 

 - 2 x CPU Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 3 x Chassis Fan Connectors (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 1 x AIO Pump Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)
- 1 x Water Pump Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)

Pump AIO -> AIO pump connector

CPU fan -> CPU fans

CPU fans -> daisy chained to one poitn

Front fans -> daisy chained to one point

Bottom fans-> daisy chained to one point

Front fans-> Chassis Fan connector

Rear fan-> second Chassis Fan connector

Bottom fans-> third Chassis Fan connector

 

8 hours ago, eclectic said:

Oh, I wasn’t aware that this HDD was considered outdated. Thanks for pointing that out. I had chosen it mainly to cut down on the overall build cost, since HDDs are generally cheaper than SSDs for the same storage capacity. If you could recommend a better HDD or SSD alternative, I would be more than happy to replace it.

Western Digital Purple

 

Western Digital Purple

 

8 hours ago, eclectic said:

ASUS B250 MINING EXPERT. It is a mining motherboard and the GPUs were connected using riser cables. 

Oh those are all 1x slots, but still 4x is probably nicer.

[eclectic]

3 hours ago, podkall said:

B series can be high-end, just because they're not labeled as ones doesn't mean they couldn't drive 32 core CPUs some of them (32core AM5 Ryzens don't exist)

 

Not really, more expensive just means you get X870 benefits, but if you don't use these benefits good B650 board would do same job.

 

And the amount of PCIe lanes, which is still only useful if you have enough GPUs, expansion careds and M.2 NVMEs, here's a chart that covers some of the feature differences:

 

 

 

 

Differences in PCIe lanes, USB layout, USB standards like USB 4.0 and SATA ports.

 

No, they're actually all good pick.

 

You don't, but you can draw approximation, because if one motherboard with certain layout can handle 16 core CPU the other with similar or better will too.

 

For example. ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 has 8+2+1 (+Dr.MOS) power phases, and it can handle 7950x without throttling the VRMs, because it was one of several Motherboards tested in at least one video.

 

So theoretically all you need is similar VRM layout and cooling as that motherboard if you want to drive 7950x.

 

So anything that has 12+2+1 for example, is already way better. With a good heatsink of course.

 

• MSI PRO B850-P WiFi: 12+2+1 phases
• MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI: 12+2+1 phases
• MSI PRO X870-P WIFI ATX AM5: 14+2+1 phases
• Asus PRIME X670E-PRO WIFI: 14+2+1 phases
• Asus TUF GAMING X870-PLUS WIFI: 16+2+1 phases
• Asrock X670E Pro RS: 14+2+1 phases
• ASRock B850 Pro-A: 12+2+1 phases
• Asrock Phantom Gaming B850 Riptide WiFi: 14+2+1 phases

 

There's no ASUS tax, people just like to complain, ASUS actually on average can have more expensive boards, because they have expensive features too.

 

For example TUF B650-PLUS is a really good board, used to be almost 200-180$ at launch, but then dipped close to 150-160$ price, for it's features very good.

 

12+2+1 phase design, and good temps:

 

 

You look up tests, this is a different video for example:

Thanks for the detailed information and explanation for all the queries. I really really appreciate it. It really has given me better understanding of the motherboards selection procedure. 

 

 

One of my friends is offering to lend me his MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard. In your opinion, is this a good motherboard? From a stability standpoint, how reliable is this motherboard, and would you recommend using it in my build?

 

I checked the motherboard’s compatibility page and confirmed that it supports the Ryzen 9 9950X processor. For RAM, it's listed as compatible with the Corsair Vengeance RGB 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 memory (SKU: CMH96GX5M2B6000C30), but not with the non-RGB version — Corsair Vengeance 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30.

If I decide to go with this motherboard, should I strictly use the listed RGB version, or is it safe to go with the non-RGB version even though it isn’t on the official compatibility list? Is there any real difference in performance or stability between the two versions?

 

 

Similarly, the 4TB WD Purple Surveillance Hard Drive you suggested is not listed on the motherboard’s storage compatibility page, whereas WD Blue drives and those from other brands are. Should I only consider hard drives that are officially listed as compatible, or is it generally safe to use drives like the WD Purple even if they aren't mentioned?

 

 

3 hours ago, podkall said:

Care that Lian Li LANCOOL III has also quite tight fit on big 360mm AIOs, but once again, should fit if you know how to slot it in

 

Here is how I came to the conclusion that Lian Li LANCOOL III will fit the LF III 360 AIO. 

 

Step 1 --> I checked the compatibility of the LF III 360 AIO with the motherboard MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI on the Arctic motherboard compatibility website.

 

 

Step 2 --> I checked the physical dimension of the thickness of radiator + fan of the AIOwhich is 63 mm without the screws (here)  and 66 mm with the screws (source: here) (see attached images below). 

 

Step 3 --> I checked the radiator clearance on the lian Li LANCOOL III ATX Mid Tower Case on the website. The total max thickness for top 360mm radiator was written as 75 mm.

 

Therefore, based on the above information I concluded that there will be compatibility between the selected Lian Li LANCOOL III and LF III 360 AIO. In your opinion, do you think the above case and AIO are compatible with each other? If not then, please let me know. 

 

 

3 hours ago, podkall said:

You technically don't need bottom intake fans, and could buy them later, but:

Thermalright TL-C12C X3 3-Pack

Thermalright TL-C12C-S X3 3-Pack

Added to my build. 

3 hours ago, podkall said:

Pump AIO -> AIO pump connector

CPU fan -> CPU fans

CPU fans -> daisy chained to one poitn

Front fans -> daisy chained to one point

Bottom fans-> daisy chained to one point

Front fans-> Chassis Fan connector

Rear fan-> second Chassis Fan connector

Bottom fans-> third Chassis Fan connector

Thank you so much. Now I get it. 

3 hours ago, podkall said:

 

Western Digital Purple

 

Western Digital Purple

Thank you. Added the 4 TB one to the build.

 

 

 

 

Which windows (10 or 11) and which edition (home or pro) should I go with? I am using it as a personal workstation for productivity loads. Home edition seems enough, but what is your opinion.

[podkall]

29 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Thanks for the detailed information and explanation for all the queries. I really really appreciate it. It really has given me better understanding of the motherboards selection procedure. 

 

 

One of my friends is offering to lend me his MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard. In your opinion, is this a good motherboard? From a stability standpoint, how reliable is this motherboard, and would you recommend using it in my build?

Sure, I see no reason why this motherboard would be bad, it's got all the things you need, naturally because of the X870 chipset, can't really cheap out too much on something so premium rated.

 

31 minutes ago, eclectic said:

I checked the motherboard’s compatibility page and confirmed that it supports the Ryzen 9 9950X processor. For RAM, it's listed as compatible with the Corsair Vengeance RGB 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 memory (SKU: CMH96GX5M2B6000C30), but not with the non-RGB version — Corsair Vengeance 96 GB (2 x 48 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30.

If I decide to go with this motherboard, should I strictly use the listed RGB version, or is it safe to go with the non-RGB version even though it isn’t on the official compatibility list? Is there any real difference in performance or stability between the two versions?

QVL list can lack some RAM, this is mostly because it's quite expensive to test all RAM there is on single board, so they test many different RAM kits across. Most RGB version kits have same internals as non-RGB versions of same model name anyway.

 

32 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Similarly, the 4TB WD Purple Surveillance Hard Drive you suggested is not listed on the motherboard’s storage compatibility page, whereas WD Blue drives and those from other brands are. Should I only consider hard drives that are officially listed as compatible, or is it generally safe to use drives like the WD Purple even if they aren't mentioned?

Those are all M.2 NVME drives, the compatibility you see is for these:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/266NnQ/western-digital-blue-sn580-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3b0e

 

The HDD should work just like any HDD, you just plug it into the SATA drive and it should be available for setting up or using.

 

There shouldn't be any compatibility problem since most HDDs are similar and same is the connection to the disk. And are very old technology that's just out here for a very long time.

 

36 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Therefore, based on the above information I concluded that there will be compatibility between the selected Lian Li LANCOOL III and LF III 360 AIO. In your opinion, do you think the above case and AIO are compatible with each other? If not then, please let me know. 

Of course, I'm just saying it's tight fit, one person here bought Lancool III and wasn't happy about the AIO not wanting to fit, maybe they didn't watch guide to better understand how to slot that AIO without problems. Long story short they bought different case.

 

But that's just a what gamers call "skill issue" and if you played with lego before and know how to follow tutorial, it should be pretty easy.

 

38 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Added to my build. 

Technically you don't need fans, but it's fine to have some more intake.

 

38 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Thank you so much. Now I get it. 

daisy chain:

 

 

40 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Which windows (10 or 11) and which edition (home or pro) should I go with? I am using it as a personal workstation for productivity loads. Home edition seems enough, but what is your opinion.

That's up to you, I haven't really seen any benefits for myself personally between Home and Pro.

 

Here's ChatGPT summary:

Windows Home (good for most users):

• Cheaper

• All core features: Windows Hello, Cortana, Virtual Desktops, Snap Assist, etc.

• DirectX 12 & Game Mode for gamers

• Microsoft Store apps and Xbox Game Bar

• No BitLocker encryption

• No Group Policy Editor or Remote Desktop Hosting

• Limited control over updates and settings

• No Hyper-V (for virtual machines)

Windows Pro (for power users/business use):

• All Home features plus:

• BitLocker encryption

• Group Policy Editor (deep system config control)

• Remote Desktop host (connect to your PC remotely)

• Hyper-V (run virtual machines)

• Assigned Access & Kiosk mode (lock down functionality)

• Delay updates more granularly

• Join Active Directory / Azure AD (for business networks)

 

If you feel like you need any of the Pro features, then I guess that's the pick, but I don't see any major reason for any of those, remote desktop and other things are quite niche for most people, other features could also be accessed by alternatives, Hyper-V virtualization is just Microsoft V-machine software, there's other free software that can make you V-machine, etc.

 

10 or 11, 11 is more recent and updated, so it will most likely be better for newer hardware you are buying, but if nothing you do is strictly saying you need W11, you could do W10, W11 is just newer and W10 feels like Microsoft doesn't want to continue supporting it, it's support basically ends this year.

 

 

Lot of stuff, you can get Windows free, from Microsoft, and then activate it later with key or official license, free Windows is just locked down version of full Home/Pro, with limited features and watermark that just wants you to upgrade Windows.

[eclectic]

1 hour ago, podkall said:

Sure, I see no reason why this motherboard would be bad, it's got all the things you need, naturally because of the X870 chipset, can't really cheap out too much on something so premium rated.

 

QVL list can lack some RAM, this is mostly because it's quite expensive to test all RAM there is on single board, so they test many different RAM kits across. Most RGB version kits have same internals as non-RGB versions of same model name anyway.

 

Those are all M.2 NVME drives, the compatibility you see is for these:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/266NnQ/western-digital-blue-sn580-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3b0e

 

The HDD should work just like any HDD, you just plug it into the SATA drive and it should be available for setting up or using.

 

There shouldn't be any compatibility problem since most HDDs are similar and same is the connection to the disk. And are very old technology that's just out here for a very long time.

 

Of course, I'm just saying it's tight fit, one person here bought Lancool III and wasn't happy about the AIO not wanting to fit, maybe they didn't watch guide to better understand how to slot that AIO without problems. Long story short they bought different case.

 

But that's just a what gamers call "skill issue" and if you played with lego before and know how to follow tutorial, it should be pretty easy.

 

Technically you don't need fans, but it's fine to have some more intake.

 

daisy chain:

 

 

That's up to you, I haven't really seen any benefits for myself personally between Home and Pro.

 

Here's ChatGPT summary:

Windows Home (good for most users):

• Cheaper

• All core features: Windows Hello, Cortana, Virtual Desktops, Snap Assist, etc.

• DirectX 12 & Game Mode for gamers

• Microsoft Store apps and Xbox Game Bar

• No BitLocker encryption

• No Group Policy Editor or Remote Desktop Hosting

• Limited control over updates and settings

• No Hyper-V (for virtual machines)

Windows Pro (for power users/business use):

• All Home features plus:

• BitLocker encryption

• Group Policy Editor (deep system config control)

• Remote Desktop host (connect to your PC remotely)

• Hyper-V (run virtual machines)

• Assigned Access & Kiosk mode (lock down functionality)

• Delay updates more granularly

• Join Active Directory / Azure AD (for business networks)

 

If you feel like you need any of the Pro features, then I guess that's the pick, but I don't see any major reason for any of those, remote desktop and other things are quite niche for most people, other features could also be accessed by alternatives, Hyper-V virtualization is just Microsoft V-machine software, there's other free software that can make you V-machine, etc.

 

10 or 11, 11 is more recent and updated, so it will most likely be better for newer hardware you are buying, but if nothing you do is strictly saying you need W11, you could do W10, W11 is just newer and W10 feels like Microsoft doesn't want to continue supporting it, it's support basically ends this year.

 

 

Lot of stuff, you can get Windows free, from Microsoft, and then activate it later with key or official license, free Windows is just locked down version of full Home/Pro, with limited features and watermark that just wants you to upgrade Windows.

Acknowledged every point.

 

 

I want the Remote Desktop feature. So I guess I will go with Windows 11 Pro edition.

[podkall]

27 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Acknowledged every point.

 

 

I want the Remote Desktop feature. So I guess I will go with Windows 11 Pro edition.

Not sure if that's something also avaliable through other apps. Let me check.

 

Yeah, what kind of remote desktop are you using? The Windows one or some other app that could possibly work in Home version?

 

Either way, how more expensive is Pro anyway? If it's not that much more expensive it might not be that big of a deal and decision.

[eclectic]

46 minutes ago, podkall said:

Not sure if that's something also avaliable through other apps. Let me check.

 

Yeah, what kind of remote desktop are you using? The Windows one or some other app that could possibly work in Home version?

 

Either way, how more expensive is Pro anyway? If it's not that much more expensive it might not be that big of a deal and decision.

There are software such as Anydesk and Teamviewer than enable remotely accessing a PC.

 

A PC running on Windows Home edition cannot be accessed remotely using Microsoft’s built in Remote Desktop feature. To enable remote access through this feature, the PC to be accessed must have the Pro version of Windows. I currently access my workstation in the lab remotely and plan to do the same with the PC I am building now, which is why I need the Pro version.

Previously, I used the free version of TeamViewer, but it comes with session time limits. Moreover, third party remote access tools like TeamViewer require an active internet connection. In contrast, Microsoft’s Remote Desktop can work over a local network. So if both PCs are connected to the same network via ethernet, no internet connection is needed to access it.

 

On the Microsoft website, pro is of 200$ and home is of 139$. My friend suggested to buy from this website, as cheaper options are available there.

[podkall]

10 minutes ago, eclectic said:

There are software such as Anydesk and Teamviewer than enable remotely accessing a PC.

 

A PC running Windows Home edition cannot be accessed remotely using Microsoft’s built in Remote Desktop feature. To enable remote access through this feature, the PC must have the Pro version of Windows. I currently access my workstation in the lab remotely and plan to do the same with the PC I am building now, which is why I need the Pro version.

Previously, I used the free version of TeamViewer, but it comes with session time limits. Moreover, third party remote access tools like TeamViewer require an active internet connection. In contrast, Microsoft’s Remote Desktop can work over a local network. So if both PCs are connected to the same network via ethernet, no internet connection is needed to access it.

 

On the Microsoft website, pro is of 200$ and home is of 139$. My friend suggested to buy from this website, as cheaper options are available there.

I heared of this grey-area website: https://www.keysfan.com/software.html

[brob]

2 hours ago, eclectic said:

I want the Remote Desktop feature. So I guess I will go with Windows 11 Pro edition.

 

Remote Desktop client support is ending next year.  https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/blog/windows-itpro-blog/prepare-for-the-remote-desktop-client-for-windows-end-of-support/4397724

 

[eclectic]

7 hours ago, podkall said:

I heared of this grey-area website: https://www.keysfan.com/software.html

Thanks. I will check it out too. 

 

7 hours ago, brob said:

 

Remote Desktop client support is ending next year.  https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/blog/windows-itpro-blog/prepare-for-the-remote-desktop-client-for-windows-end-of-support/4397724

 

Oh, I did not know about this. I guess they are trying to emulate apple. Apple also have something like "Windows App" to connect to remote devices.  

[eclectic]

17 hours ago, podkall said:

Of course, I'm just saying it's tight fit, one person here bought Lancool III and wasn't happy about the AIO not wanting to fit, maybe they didn't watch guide to better understand how to slot that AIO without problems. Long story short they bought different case.

 

But that's just a what gamers call "skill issue" and if you played with lego before and know how to follow tutorial, it should be pretty easy.

One more case that I found is compatible with Arctic LF III 360 Pro is Deepcool CH780. However, it does not have an option to install a rear fan and instead of front mount fans, the fans are side mount.

1. Isn't the side mount configuration sub optimal as compared to front mount fan in terms of air flow?

2. Will the lack of rear fans affect the temperature?

3. Should I go with this case given the downside of no front mount and no rear fan? 

4. Will this case keep my CPU and GPU cool as I will be running my PC for extended period of time because of long simulation times?

[podkall]

2 hours ago, eclectic said:

One more case that I found is compatible with Arctic LF III 360 Pro is Deepcool CH780. However, it does not have an option to install a rear fan and instead of front mount fans, the fans are side mount.

1. Isn't the side mount configuration sub optimal as compared to front mount fan in terms of air flow?

2. Will the lack of rear fans affect the temperature?

3. Should I go with this case given the downside of no front mount and no rear fan? 

4. Will this case keep my CPU and GPU cool as I will be running my PC for extended period of time because of long simulation times?

1. Little bit
2. Not really, most builds are fine with 4 fan configs, 3 intake 1 rear exhaust
3. Get the Lian-Li LANCOOL III case, you'll fit the LF AIO
4. It's an alright case, all sides can fit 420mm radiators, that's lot of room for air to go through

 

There's plenty cases that can fit Arctic LF III, you can check with pcpartpicker with your list having LF III 360 it doesn't give you incompatible cases when filter is on.

 

If you pair incompatible case and cooler, you get warning.

 

 

 

 

 

[eclectic]

2 hours ago, podkall said:

1. Little bit
2. Not really, most builds are fine with 4 fan configs, 3 intake 1 rear exhaust
3. Get the Lian-Li LANCOOL III case, you'll fit the LF AIO
4. It's an alright case, all sides can fit 420mm radiators, that's lot of room for air to go through

 

There's plenty cases that can fit Arctic LF III, you can check with pcpartpicker with your list having LF III 360 it doesn't give you incompatible cases when filter is on.

 

If you pair incompatible case and cooler, you get warning.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the final build as of today (May 04, 2025) - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7nr3v4

The warnings given for the above build are given in the attached image- 

 

 

[podkall]

21 minutes ago, eclectic said:

This is the final build as of today (May 04, 2025) - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7nr3v4

The warnings given for the above build are given in the attached image- 

 

 

Looks good to me, the only weird thing is GPU, but you already have that and aim for CPU power anyway.

[eclectic]

On 5/4/2025 at 9:33 PM, podkall said:

Looks good to me, the only weird thing is GPU, but you already have that and aim for CPU power anyway.

Brother, help me out.

 

The supplier has only DOMINATOR TITANIUM RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 DRAM 6600MT/s CL32 RAM available with them not VENGEANCE RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 DRAM 6000MT/s CL30 Memory Kit.

Should I go with Dominator instead of Vengeance? will there be a problem

 

OR

 

Should I just go for lower memory size like 64 GB but in same specs ( 6000MT/s CL30 )

[podkall]

5 hours ago, eclectic said:

Brother, help me out.

 

The supplier has only DOMINATOR TITANIUM RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 DRAM 6600MT/s CL32 RAM available with them not VENGEANCE RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 DRAM 6000MT/s CL30 Memory Kit.

Should I go with Dominator instead of Vengeance? will there be a problem

 

OR

 

Should I just go for lower memory size like 64 GB but in same specs ( 6000MT/s CL30 )

You can get dominator if it's within your budget. Regardless of RAM speed, if it's 6600 CL32 for example, things can get tuned, you can change the RAM frequency to 6000-3400 and maybe even drop CL down to CL30. Not guaranteed but sometimes it can work like that, quite simple.

[eclectic]

On 5/12/2025 at 7:56 PM, podkall said:

You can get dominator if it's within your budget. Regardless of RAM speed, if it's 6600 CL32 for example, things can get tuned, you can change the RAM frequency to 6000-3400 and maybe even drop CL down to CL30. Not guaranteed but sometimes it can work like that, quite simple.

Thank you for clearing my query. The DOMINATOR 96GB was getting way out of budget and they were not able to arrange the VENGEANCE 96GB, so I ended up buying the DOMINATOR TITANIUM 64GB DDR5 DRAM 6000MT/s CL30. 

 

 

Also, I have a question. They did not had Arctic LF III 30 Pro and neither could they get it from anyone. So, they gave me Deepcool LD 360 instead.

Now while running my simulations, the CPU temperature is hitting maximum of 75 degree C (167 F) as shown by the deepcool temperature monitor on the AIO itself and the software in the PC. Also, idle running temperature is also somewhere between 54-64 degree C.

a) Is this temperature profile (idle + on load) on expected lines or is my CPU running hot?

b) Any suggestions for bringing down the CPU temperature?

 

Additional information:

1. They had applied thermal paste too while installing the AIO on CPU.

2. There are 3 Front Fan, 1 Rear fan, 1 Top Radiator (360) of AIO,  No bottom fans till now but I plan to install it.

3. The air conditioning was not turned ON in the room. However, the ceiling fan was turned ON. (I don't know how much effect it has on cooling inside the case) 

 

Edit: Corrected ideal to idle

[podkall]

5 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Also, I have a question. They did not had Arctic LF III 30 Pro and neither could they get it from anyone. So, they gave me Deepcool LD 360 instead.

Now while running my simulations, the CPU temperature is hitting maximum of 75 degree C (167 F) as shown by the deepcool temperature monitor on the AIO itself and the software in the PC.

That's good.

 

5 minutes ago, eclectic said:

a) Is this temperature profile (ideal + on load) on expected lines or is my CPU running hot?

b) Any suggestions for bringing down the CPU temperature?

Your CPU can run at 90C pinned and still be fine, you're on AM5 Ryzen.

 

5 minutes ago, eclectic said:

Additional information:

1. They had applied thermal paste too while installing the AIO on CPU.

That's good, you wouldn't want no thermal paste.

 

6 minutes ago, eclectic said:

2. There are 3 Front Fan, 1 Rear fan, 1 Top Radiator (360) of AIO,  No bottom fans till now but I plan to install it.

Cool, that's negative pressure, but depending how the fans are hooked up could be changed to positive without opening the case.

 

6 minutes ago, eclectic said:

3. The air conditioning was not turned ON in the room. However, the ceiling fan was turned ON. (I don't know how much effect it has on cooling inside the case)

None, the only factor that plays for PC's thermals besides case and fans inside, is ambient temperature and if warm air is getting trapped under desk or not.

[eclectic]

16 hours ago, podkall said:

 That's good.

 

Your CPU can run at 90C pinned and still be fine, you're on AM5 Ryzen.

 

That's good, you wouldn't want no thermal paste.

 

Cool, that's negative pressure, but depending how the fans are hooked up could be changed to positive without opening the case.

 

None, the only factor that plays for PC's thermals besides case and fans inside, is ambient temperature and if warm air is getting trapped under desk or not.

Thank you so much, man, you are a lifesaver! I really appreciate your detailed responses and the help with all my questions. This was my first build, so your guidance meant a lot.
I'll gradually tinker with the settings to get a good performance while maintaining the stability and longevity and keep you posted.

 

I haven't updated the bios to latest version yet. Kind of thinking on the lines of the philosophy "don't fix what is not broken". Do you suggest updating the BIOS? I got the X870E Tomahawk motherboard

[podkall]

1 hour ago, eclectic said:

Thank you so much, man, you're a lifesaver! I really appreciate your detailed responses and the help with all my questions. This was my first build, so your guidance meant a lot.
I'll gradually tinker with the settings to get a good performance while maintaining the stability and longevity and keep you posted.

 

I haven't updated the bios to latest version yet. Kind of thinking on the lines of the philosophy "don't fix what's not broken". Do you suggest updating the bios? I got the X870E Tomahawk motherboard

You should update BIOS first time you get/set up PC.

 

But you can also check which version the BIOS is running at, maybe you don't even need to update it.

[brob]

1 hour ago, eclectic said:

 

I haven't updated the bios to latest version yet. Kind of thinking on the lines of the philosophy "don't fix what's not broken". Do you suggest updating the bios? I got the X870E Tomahawk motherboard

 

Used to be that your thinking was considered optimal. In fact I remember Asus documentation advising against BIOS updates unless it would resolve a particular problem.

 

Things have changed. BIOS updates are the primary mechanism for distributing CPU updates. These seem to be happening with greater frequency. It's my impression that every recent desktop CPU released by AMD and Intel has had at least one important microcode update. In addition DDR5 is relatively new and BIOS memory handling is constantly being improved. So my advice is to update the BIOS as they become available. But do so cautiously following manufacturer recommendation for backups etc.

 

[eclectic]

On 5/13/2025 at 10:37 PM, podkall said:

But you can also check which version the BIOS is running at, maybe you don't even need to update it.

Sorry for the delay in reply. I got access to the PC over the weekend. The current BIOS version installed in the motherboard is - E7E59AMSI.2A30 (Jan 06, 2025).

 

 

 

 

After checking the MSI website for what the latest BIOS have to offer for my motherboard, here are the update notes for all releases post Jan 06, 2025-

Description:

Release Date: 2025-05-07
- AGESA PI-1.2.0.3c released.
- Security update for the Ryzen 9000 series CPU.

 

Release Date: 2025-04-24
- AGESA PI-1.2.0.3c released.
- Security update for the Ryzen 9000 series CPU.

 

Release Date: 2025-03-18
- AGESA PI-1.2.0.3a Patch A released.
- Fix CPU information is incorrect.
- Fix DRAM message on Post page is incorrect.
- Optimized the memory compatibility of single rank (1R) under 2DPC configuration.
- Optimized the memory compatibility of dual rank (2R) under 1DPC configuration.
- Please update the chipset driver to version 7.01.08.129 for better gaming performance.

 

Release Date: 2025-03-05
- Support AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D and 9900X3D CPUs.
- AGESA PI-1.2.0.3a Patch A released.
- Optimized the memory compatibility of single rank (1R) under 2DPC configuration.
- Optimized the memory compatibility of dual rank (2R) under 1DPC configuration.
- Please update the chipset driver to version 7.01.08.129 for better gaming performance.

 

Release Date: 2025-01-10
- Fix PCIE3 speed drop or device loss issue.  

 

 

 

There are description related to Ryzen 9000 series CPU. What do you recommend, whether I should update BIOS or not?

 

Also, do you recommend installing MSI center? IMO, I feel these kind of software are just bloatware. I can be wrong though. 

On 5/13/2025 at 10:52 PM, brob said:

So my advice is to update the BIOS as they become available. But do so cautiously following manufacturer recommendation for backups etc.

 

Could you please check the above updates for the BIOS version that are installed after my version. Do you feel I should update my BIOS?