Behold! GPU 12VHPWR melting protection

[Aurmend]

Note: This is one of the most jank things I created.

 

This connector will help prevent your GPU from melting by it melting first!

 

The male side of the connector is very cheap compared to the female side so in theory that's where it should melt first.

 

Or it could prevent melting because there's a bus bar on both the positive and negative, idk I don't have a 4090/5090 or a 600w load to test.

 

Oh and I could create a professional looking one by making a PCB but nah. This one needs to be tested first.

[danalog]

Why use a fuse when the connector can be the fuse?

[strange13930]

33 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

Note: This is one of the most jank things I created.

 

This connector will help prevent your GPU from melting by it melting first!

 

The male side of the connector is very cheap compared to the female side so in theory that's where it should melt first.

 

Or it could prevent melting because there's a bus bar on both the positive and negative, idk I don't have a 4090/5090 or a 600w load to test.

 

Oh and I could create a professional looking one by making a PCB but nah. This one needs to be tested first.

throw it on kickstarter.

[IkeaGnome]

36 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

Note: This is one of the most jank things I created.

 

This connector will help prevent your GPU from melting by it melting first!

 

The male side of the connector is very cheap compared to the female side so in theory that's where it should melt first.

 

Or it could prevent melting because there's a bus bar on both the positive and negative, idk I don't have a 4090/5090 or a 600w load to test.

 

Oh and I could create a professional looking one by making a PCB but nah. This one needs to be tested first.

If all the wires are a direct 1 to 1 then it won't change anything. 

[Aurmend]

Just now, strange13930 said:

throw it on kickstarter.

I gotta show this thing melting first before I even consider it lol

[Aurmend]

3 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

If all the wires are a direct 1 to 1 then it won't change anything. 

It does not, it connects to a 1.5*10mm copper bar.

I covered it with tape because it looks pretty bad. It was pretty hard to solder onto it

[IkeaGnome]

4 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

It does not. I covered it with tape because it looks pretty bad.

Is it using a bus bar or fuses to connect one connector to the other?

[Aurmend]

8 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

Is it using a bus bar or fuses to connect one connector to the other?

Bus bar. Hence the second sentence saying that it will protect your GPU by melting first. The female side connector, connecting to the GPU is of much higher quality (more metal on the pins) than the male side. So if heat is created by currently draw it should melt on the male side

[IkeaGnome]

1 minute ago, Aurmend said:

Bus bar. Hence the second sentence saying that it will protect your GPU by melting first. The female side connector, connecting to the GPU is of much higher quality than the male side. So if heat is created by currently draw it should melt on the male side

Unless it's the bus bar in the GPU that gets hot first. This isn't solving the problem. Just adding more flammables to it.

[Aurmend]

1 minute ago, IkeaGnome said:

Unless it's the bus bar in the GPU that gets hot first. This isn't solving the problem. Just adding more flammables to it.

Yeah that's the other problem. I forgot which pin gets hot first if it's closest or farthest away from the PCB. But on the other hand there is so much copper that this connector should help dissipate heat. I should solder some copper heat fins on the ground side lol

[IkeaGnome]

7 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

I forgot which pin gets hot first if it's closest or farthest away from the PCB.

Which ever ones are properly connected to the graphics card.

8 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

I should solder some copper heat fins on the ground side lol

How would that even begin to help?

[Aurmend]

4 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

Which ever ones are properly connected to the graphics card.

How would that even begin to help?

It doesn't, it's another jank idea. For shits and giggles I should add a small fan on it. It'll look like something straight out of China with no engineering behind it.

 

Note: I only created this connector because I was bored.

[IkeaGnome]

2 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

It doesn't, it's another jank idea. For shits and giggles I should add a small fan on it. It'll look like something straight out of China with no engineering behind it.

 

Note: I only created this connector because I was bored.

A fuse on each of the 12v wires would work and actually do the job though. 

The heatsink on the ground wires won't work because it's the 12V side that melts out. 

[Aurmend]

9 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

A fuse on each of the 12v wires would work and actually do the job though. 

The heatsink on the ground wires won't work because it's the 12V side that melts out. 

The way I made it... It'll actually work... If I replace the Clapton tape separating the two bus bars and replace it with a thin sheet of silicone.

 

The problem with fuses is that once they blow that's it for the connector. Unless I.... Dude you're a genius. I can just use a chip that cuts of power and resets when the power is cut off or by pressing a button 

Edit, NVM they don't create those chips. I would need to make a whole current sensing circuit for each pin 

[IkeaGnome]

Just now, Aurmend said:

The problem with fuses is that once they blow that's it for the connector.

Once the connector melts, it's also done for.

1 minute ago, Aurmend said:

Unless I.... Dude you're a genius. I can just use a chip that cuts of power and resets when the power is cut off

Don't even need a chip.. 6 type 1 circuit breakers will look plenty jank for you and reset on their own.

[Aurmend]

3 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

Once the connector melts, it's also done for.

Don't even need a chip.. 6 type 1 circuit breakers will look plenty jank for you and reset on their own.

I'm looking and It'll be too expensive. Also if my maths is right. Each pin draws 8.5ish amps? The pins on the male side definitely look like they shouldn't be able to handle that on 12v 

[Aurmend]

If this was an actual idea I would create a PCB and add fuses to each pin on the 12v side and use this for repairability

[IkeaGnome]

3 minutes ago, Aurmend said:

I'm looking and It'll be too expensive. Also if my maths is right. Each pin draws 8.5ish amps? The pins on the male side definitely look like they shouldn't be able to handle that on 12v 

Also, you can get 10 amp type 1s on ebay for as little as $3 each. 

[Aurmend]

9 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

Also, you can get 10 amp type 1s on ebay for as little as $3 each. 

That thing is huge. (Not really but anything over 20mm I consider big) But in theory only 2 10a fuses are needed for both ends of the connector