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Is this UPS the right one for me? Max budget: 400 Euro | Pure Sinewave or Simulated Sinewave? *Confusion*

I get frequent power outages that last between 3-10 minutes.
My set up draws ~600-700W while fully loaded (including peripherals)
My PSU: MPG A850GF 
My outlet/plug type: Schuko
Country: Lithuania 


CP1600EPFCLCD (360 Euro)


It seems UPSs without Pure Sine Wave are much cheaper
But do they work for PCs?
This shiz confuses me
VP1600ELCD (220 Euro)

And then there is this one that seems to have a bigger battery and yet costs EVEN less than the prev two..why doe. 
UT2200EG (160 Euro)

My question is.
Do i need the more expensive ones or will the 160Euro one do just fine? 

Also, do the UPSs with USBs on 'em able to charge stuff like a phone?
 

CPU:6600K | MB:Z170A PC MATE | RAM:Kingston HyperX Fury Black 24GB 2666MHz CL16 | GPU:ASUS TUF 3060Ti  | Case:Aerocool Strike-X One | Storage: 970 EVO 1TB | 870 QVO 1TB |Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB | Seagate Barracuda 2TB (18k+ Real. Sectors) | PSU: MSI MPG A850GF 850W | Display: Asus TUF VG249Q1A | Dell SE2416H | Cooling: Liquid Freezer II 120mm

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I will add just my experience. I have 3 CyberPower UPS... One died within warranty, replaced all internals. Second one died around the end of warranty, I didn't notice until power outage, so no replacement... Will be dead internals as well. 
The last one, weakest, works fine. 

 

But with this, I'd advise to choose a different manufacturer. 

 

USB is I believe only for communication, so your PC/NAS can see status of the UPS

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30 minutes ago, DennyPhantom said:

CP1600EPFCLCD (360 Euro)

I own the CP1500PFCLCD which is a North America spec variant, extremely happy with it. Runs my 7800x3D/4090 system at idle on the desktop for roughly 35-40 minutes. If I'm at the PC when the power goes out, I close everything I have open as quickly as possible. You can setup the software to either preserve battery power but automatically shut the PC down after a couple of minutes or run as long as possible then shut the PC down. 

Ryzen 7 7800x3D -  Asus RTX4090 TUF OC- Asrock X670E Taichi - 32GB DDR5-6000CL30 - SuperFlower 1000W - Fractal Torrent - Assassin IV - 42" LG C2

Ryzen 7 5800x - XFX RX6600 - Asus STRIX B550i - 32GB DDR4-3200CL14 - Corsair SF750 - Lian Li O11 Mini - EK 360 AIO - Asus PG348Q

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40 minutes ago, Russsell said:

I will add just my experience. I have 3 CyberPower UPS... One died within warranty, replaced all internals. Second one died around the end of warranty, I didn't notice until power outage, so no replacement... Will be dead internals as well. 
The last one, weakest, works fine. 

 

But with this, I'd advise to choose a different manufacturer. 

 

USB is I believe only for communication, so your PC/NAS can see status of the UPS

Any manufacturer suggestions? 
 

CPU:6600K | MB:Z170A PC MATE | RAM:Kingston HyperX Fury Black 24GB 2666MHz CL16 | GPU:ASUS TUF 3060Ti  | Case:Aerocool Strike-X One | Storage: 970 EVO 1TB | 870 QVO 1TB |Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB | Seagate Barracuda 2TB (18k+ Real. Sectors) | PSU: MSI MPG A850GF 850W | Display: Asus TUF VG249Q1A | Dell SE2416H | Cooling: Liquid Freezer II 120mm

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few things to note here:

 

- the last one doesnt seem like it *has* a bigger battery, they are just very creative with runtime figures for what is essentially manufactured E-waste. UPS batteries are a consumable, not making them replaceable means this device has an operating lifespan of at most 4 years.

 

as for pure vs simulated sine, ideally you want pure, but as long as your power supply is well made it should be able to handle it, at least for the brief moments that it needs. but if pure sine wave fits the budget, i'd go pure sine wave any day.

 

on that note.. the runtimes quoted on these UPS'es are awful, if your goal is to bridge the 10 minutes, and do so  reliably, you'll need something far more juicy. that said.. it is trivial to buy one of those and connect a pair of car batteries to the battery terminals, if you're willing to go the bodge route.

 

or in other words:

- dont buy the €160 one, full stop.

- the €220 simulated sine wave will probably be fine.

- if you can afford €360, that's some killer value for a propper sine wave UPS, even if the batteries are shyte.

 

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2 minutes ago, DennyPhantom said:

Any manufacturer suggestions? 
 

i personally run APC, but if you see the prices on their 900 watt units you'll see why i didnt direclty recommend them here...

 

also, i missed the question about USB; on APC's side of things at least that's to communicate with your pc, and all my APC units essentially show up as a battery just like a laptop does, and you can just use windows' power settings to have your pc go to sleep or shut down on an outage.

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9 hours ago, manikyath said:

few things to note here:

 

- the last one doesnt seem like it *has* a bigger battery, they are just very creative with runtime figures for what is essentially manufactured E-waste. UPS batteries are a consumable, not making them replaceable means this device has an operating lifespan of at most 4 years.

 

as for pure vs simulated sine, ideally you want pure, but as long as your power supply is well made it should be able to handle it, at least for the brief moments that it needs. but if pure sine wave fits the budget, i'd go pure sine wave any day.

 

on that note.. the runtimes quoted on these UPS'es are awful, if your goal is to bridge the 10 minutes, and do so  reliably, you'll need something far more juicy. that said.. it is trivial to buy one of those and connect a pair of car batteries to the battery terminals, if you're willing to go the bodge route.

 

or in other words:

- dont buy the €160 one, full stop.

- the €220 simulated sine wave will probably be fine.

- if you can afford €360, that's some killer value for a propper sine wave UPS, even if the batteries are shyte.

 

Is the "Transfer Time" something to consider?
Its 8ms on the
360 one while 4ms on the 160. 

Im assuming its how fast it switches to Battery when the power goes out
Too slow and PC would shut down.. right? 
So would 8ms be fine?

CPU:6600K | MB:Z170A PC MATE | RAM:Kingston HyperX Fury Black 24GB 2666MHz CL16 | GPU:ASUS TUF 3060Ti  | Case:Aerocool Strike-X One | Storage: 970 EVO 1TB | 870 QVO 1TB |Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB | Seagate Barracuda 2TB (18k+ Real. Sectors) | PSU: MSI MPG A850GF 850W | Display: Asus TUF VG249Q1A | Dell SE2416H | Cooling: Liquid Freezer II 120mm

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11 hours ago, DennyPhantom said:

Is the "Transfer Time" something to consider?
Its 8ms on the
360 one while 4ms on the 160. 

Im assuming its how fast it switches to Battery when the power goes out
Too slow and PC would shut down.. right? 
So would 8ms be fine?

It should be shorter than your PSU's power loss to PWR_OK hold up time. For the AGF, I couldn't find reviews testing the hold up time of the 850W, but the 650W and 750W versions have 14 ms and 12ms hold up times, so expect the 850W to be similar to those during an 850W load. The 3060 Ti is a 200W card, so expect the system to draw way less than 850W, even during load, so the hold up time should be far longer than it would be under an 850W load.

:)

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