I need a switch with a strong shaft. Yes, laugh.

[aisle9]

I bought a Weikav META68 a couple of weeks ago, and while there have been some issues with it, I like it enough to start using it as a daily driver. The issue I keep facing is the godawful stock red switches. They're stiff, scratchy and generally what you'd expect for a $20 mechanical board--but there's a twist. They're hot-swappable with other 3-pin switches.

 

The problem with that is that their hotswap sockets are stiff. Like, switch-killing stiff. I've tried using 3-pin Cherry switches of various colors that I have around here, and the shafts bend. The only switches I've been able to swap the reds out with are a bunch of old 3-pin Akko pink linears, which have noticeably thicker metal shafts than the Cherries. Ditto the reds the board came with. I want to order some new tactile switches, but they have to be endowed with firm stems. Five-pin switches are an option in that they can be cut down, but my preference is to not destroy switches like that. I would assume other Akko switches would work, but I figured I'd ask here too if anyone knows of decent 3-pin tactiles that have particularly beefy contact pins.

 

It actually is a very decent board once taped and stuffed with EVA foam. It's not a high-end board by any stretch of the imagination, but for $20? It's solid.

[OddOod]

lol, from the title I thought that you were asking about light switches

I have no product suggestions, but would it be possible to ream out the holes a bit to loosen them? It seems like their sockets are out of spec if every one is so stiff

[tkitch]

I think Ood has it right, there's probably an issue with the board if it's doing that all over it.  

[jaslion]

15 minutes ago, tkitch said:

I think Ood has it right, there's probably an issue with the board if it's doing that all over it.  

Second that. Probably why it's 20$ and somehow hot swap.

[Somerandomtechyboi]

a stiff socket needs an equally stiff shaft

[GarlicDeliverySystem]

I think Gateron has thicker reinforced contact pins on their newer switches:

 

So something like G Pro 3.0 or any newer revisions of the other switches like the Baby Kangaroo v2 should have that. I think even newer batches of Oil Kings have this now (which would make sense if they just swapped over all the lines that make the contacts).

[Chpy]

Like the user above posted, Gateron has strong pins in their newest switches- and if you find a switch you like but it's five pin you can simply trim the alignment pins. 

 

Something worth noting is that the pin issue could be caused by the keyboard you are using has "Otemu hotswap sockets" instead of a standard MX hotswap socket from kailh or gateron.

 

Before trying more switches, I would confirm if the sockets are otemu sockets or standard mx sockets. I am happy to assist you if you send an image of the bottom of your pcb with a socket in clear view.

[Monkey Dust]

 

He's a complicated man, and no one understands him but his woman.

 

A little more on topic; This Reddit thread backs up Chpy's guess

https://www.reddit.com/r/PHMechanicalKeyboard/comments/12ktoub/meta68_owners_here/

 

[aisle9]

3 hours ago, Chpy said:

Like the user above posted, Gateron has strong pins in their newest switches- and if you find a switch you like but it's five pin you can simply trim the alignment pins. 

 

Something worth noting is that the pin issue could be caused by the keyboard you are using has "Otemu hotswap sockets" instead of a standard MX hotswap socket from kailh or gateron.

 

Before trying more switches, I would confirm if the sockets are otemu sockets or standard mx sockets. I am happy to assist you if you send an image of the bottom of your pcb with a socket in clear view.

I think you just nailed it. They're almost certainly Oeutemu sockets. That would mesh with what I've read about how the only switches that will fit into an Oeutemu socket are Oeutemus themselves, knockoff Oeutemus, and Akkos. It's telling that Akko is the only switch that's fit. Even G-Pro 3.0 yellows have bent when I tried to use them. I'm not going to open the board back up to check because it's clipped together and a monstrous pain in the tailpipe to do, but I am almost positive they're actually Oeutemu sockets.