how can i improve this cases air flow ? ( Bitfenix nova mesh se tg )

[AnxiousBeat]

Hello, basically i noticed more and more lately that my components have being hotter then one would like, after investigation im starting to believe the air flow in my case in general is not ideal

i have 2 ideas about how i might possibly improve it, but im not sure whether im right or wrong, or whether there are other solutions

1- Add 2/3 top case fans so that i can have more exhausts fans and so less heat inside my case, what made me reach this conclusion is that the glass side panel would get very hot specially while gaming

2- Change the GPU stand that came with my Gainward RTX 3090 into one that takes less space, i feel like the one provided is too big and so it could be making the air flow worse

aside from this i dont really know, water cooling is an option but i dont know if i really need to shell the money on it specially since budget is a bit tight atm, but if its the only solution then i would consider it

 

here is how the inside of my case looks like ( Bitfenix nova mesh se tg )

 

 

my main concern with the high temps is gpu, specially the hotspot temps, this is an example of temps playing cyberpunk 2077 on highest settings raytracing overdrive for 20 min in two different undervolt settings

1- less aggressive undervolt:

 

2- a more aggressive undervolte

 

now i know sooner or later i ll have to open the gpu and respate/ change thermal pads of the whole thing, but i wanna first improve my case air flow, see if it gives me reasonable temps, then take the step of opening the Gpu

any advice / help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Alex Atkin UK]

18 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

Hello, basically i noticed more and more lately that my components have being hotter then one would like, after investigation im starting to believe the air flow in my case in general is not ideal

i have 2 ideas about how i might possibly improve it, but im not sure whether im right or wrong, or whether there are other solutions

1- Add 2/3 top case fans so that i can have more exhausts fans and so less heat inside my case, what made me reach this conclusion is that the glass side panel would get very hot specially while gaming

2- Change the GPU stand that came with my Gainward RTX 3090 into one that takes less space, i feel like the one provided is too big and so it could be making the air flow worse

aside from this i dont really know, water cooling is an option but i dont know if i really need to shell the money on it specially since budget is a bit tight atm, but if its the only solution then i would consider it

 

here is how the inside of my case looks like ( Bitfenix nova mesh se tg )

 

 

my main concern with the high temps is gpu, specially the hotspot temps, this is an example of temps playing cyberpunk 2077 on highest settings raytracing overdrive for 20 min in two different undervolt settings

1- less aggressive undervolt:

 

2- a more aggressive undervolte

 

now i know sooner or later i ll have to open the gpu and respate/ change thermal pads of the whole thing, but i wanna first improve my case air flow, see if it gives me reasonable temps, then take the step of opening the Gpu

any advice / help would be greatly appreciated

 

Nothing is going to make a difference here.  Personally I hate the PCIe slots being vented, never mind you leaving them entirely open like that.  That reduces your ability to control where the air is going.

[Poinkachu]

If you add 2-3 fans on the top, that means most likely most of the air being thrown in by -at least- the top front fan gonna get expelled right off the bat.

That means, less direct air for your CPU cooler.

IMO, just add 1 if you want to add, and that is on top back location, meaning it will hover above the back end of your CPU cooler.

And if you want to try something unique, add a fan below your GPU, mount it on the PCIE bracket, as intake.

 

Well, the glass gets constantly blown by hot air expelled from the GPU heatsink, of course it'll heat up.

 

Anywaay, are you using stock fans that came with the case? If so, have you tried using another fan? preferably a better one.

Because from the tech spec I'm seeing on their website, IMO, they seem suck, especially for a mesh that tight and for a 3090.

 

 

[-rascal-]

It's pretty well ventilated case.

Adding an extra 1 or 2 exhaust fans at the top *might* drop the overall temperatures by a couple of *C, but I wouldn't expect like 10*C+ difference.

 

74*C GPU temperature is fine.

Hotspot / Junction temperature is more with the GPU cooler, given that the case is not suffocating everything -- and it doesn't appear to be here.

Repasting and fresh set of (proper thickness) thermal pads is the more likely solution.

 

Seeing the CPU temperature hit 84 / 85*C.

If that concerns you, a CPU Cooler with more thermal mass / cooling should drop those temperatures down a bit more.

 

 

[thrasher_565]

nothing you really can do other then a case with bottom fan intake. could remove the dust filter as it seems like the front mesh is also micro so that should be the dust filter.

 

even with a new case temps might not be much lower like 2-3c maybe...

 

other option is to take off the fans on the gpu and zip ti fans to it. but most people dont want to do that.

[RevGAM]

1. Repaste/pad the GC if it's old.
2. Replace the cooler with a better one. 
3. Replace the front fans with good or great ones. Those are crap. 
4. Add 1-2 fans on top at the rear. You can use the crap ones or get good fans. 
5. Make sure that the overall pressure is at least slightly positive. 

[AnxiousBeat]

30 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

1. Repaste/pad the GC if it's old.
2. Replace the cooler with a better one. 
3. Replace the front fans with good or great ones. Those are crap. 
4. Add 1-2 fans on top at the rear. You can use the crap ones or get good fans. 
5. Make sure that the overall pressure is at least slightly positive. 

How can you tell good fans from bad ones? so that i know which ones to buy

[AnxiousBeat]

14 hours ago, Poinkachu said:

If you add 2-3 fans on the top, that means most likely most of the air being thrown in by -at least- the top front fan gonna get expelled right off the bat.

That means, less direct air for your CPU cooler.

IMO, just add 1 if you want to add, and that is on top back location, meaning it will hover above the back end of your CPU cooler.

And if you want to try something unique, add a fan below your GPU, mount it on the PCIE bracket, as intake.

 

Well, the glass gets constantly blown by hot air expelled from the GPU heatsink, of course it'll heat up.

 

Anywaay, are you using stock fans that came with the case? If so, have you tried using another fan? preferably a better one.

Because from the tech spec I'm seeing on their website, IMO, they seem suck, especially for a mesh that tight and for a 3090.

 

 

What factors show that a fan is bad or good? can you please suggest some good ones/ show me how can i know for myself

 

[RevGAM]

3 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

How can you tell good fans from bad ones? so that i know which ones to buy

Primarily by looking at the bearing type, warranty, airflow (AF), static pressure (SP), and noise. AF and SP should be high, which means RPM will be high, and noise should be low, especially if you are noise sensitive. Intake fans need high SP, exhaust fans need high AF unless they're blowing through mesh, a heatsink or a rad, in which case the also need high SP.

 

For bearings, look for double ball, Hydrostatic and fluid dynamic. The SSO2 from Noctua is one of the best I know of. 

 

The Noctua A12x25, Cooler Master Mobius/OC, and Phanteks T30 are all powerful. There are many others. 

 

Also be wary of fans with non-standard connectors.

 

Does that help?

[AnxiousBeat]

4 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

Primarily by looking at the bearing type, warranty, airflow (AF), static pressure (SP), and noise. AF and SP should be high, which means RPM will be high, and noise should be low, especially if you are noise sensitive. Intake fans need high SP, exhaust fans need high AF unless they're blowing through mesh, a heatsink or a rad, in which case the also need high SP.

 

For bearings, look for double ball, Hydrostatic and fluid dynamic. The SSO2 from Noctua is one of the best I know of. 

 

The Noctua A12x25, Cooler Master Mobius/OC, and Phanteks T30 are all powerful. There are many others. 

 

Also be wary of fans with non-standard connectors.

 

Does that help?

helps alot, my last question is what is considered a high AF/SP value, 

[RevGAM]

Look at the Phanteks and CM I mentioned. 

[Poinkachu]

28 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

What factors show that a fan is bad or good? can you please suggest some good ones/ show me how can i know for myself

 

Generally you look at their CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) and their Pressure when it's about cooling capability.

CFM is how much air they can move

While pressure is useful when the air needs to go through tight obstructions, like mesh panel, filter insert, radiators.

You can find youtube videos comparing SP and AF, usually they do the test using smoke, so you can see the difference on the air each of them expel.

 

A good and cheap PWM fan that often gets recommended is Arctic P12 PWM PST (There's version without PWM PST, but I don't advise getting it)

IIRC, at amazon they're usually $5 each if you buy a pack of 5.

Here's Arctic P12 PWM PST specs :

https://www.arctic.de/en/P12-PWM-PST/ACFAN00120A

 

Here is Noctua A12x25 (Pretty much one of the creme of the crops)

 

You see Noctua listed airflow using m³/h (Cubic Meters per Hour) instead of CFM, it can be converted. 1 m³/h = around 0.589 CFM said Noctua.

So A12x25 CFM is around 60

 

L.N.A meaning Low Noise Adapter, it's an adapter cable Noctua sells and sometimes include in package so that the fan will operate at lower performance, usually used to lower noise level of the fan.

 

Then the rest of the details is nosie level, bearing type, etc. Like @RevGAM have said.

But yeah, I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you're picky about such thing.

Since I assume with your 3090 the GPU fan gonna be the most noisy one when under load, while when not in heavy load, the system usually be fine enough with case fans running at 50% or so (if they're atleast decently powerful enough that is).

 

And if you game using headphone.... well....  it's going to be even harder to hear the fan noise.

[AnxiousBeat]

52 minutes ago, Poinkachu said:

Generally you look at their CFM and their Pressure.

CFM is how much air they can move

While pressure is useful when the air needs to go through tight obstructions, like mesh panel, radiators.

 

A good and cheap PWM fan that often gets recommended is Arctic P12 PWM PST (There's version without PWM PST, but I don't advise getting it)

IIRC, at amazon they're usually $5 each if you buy a pack of 5.

Here's Arctic P12 PWM PST specs :

https://www.arctic.de/en/P12-PWM-PST/ACFAN00120A

 

Here is Noctua A12x25

 

You see Noctua listed airflow using m³/h instead of CFM, it can be converted. 1 m³/h = around 0.589 CFM said Noctua.

So A12x25 CFM is around 60

very helpful and detailed info thank you so much, so after some research in whats available in my country ( 3rd world country so not everything is available) i found that the ASUS TUF GAMING TF120 is closest to what you and previous comments have recommended in terms of specs, what do you think?
https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/cooling/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-tf120-argb-fan-triple-fan-kit-with-argb-controller/techspec/

 

 

 

also should i consider getting 3 for the front, and use the old for rear + 1 or 2 at the top as exhaust fans, or do i have to get new  ones for the rear

 and top too ? 

[RevGAM]

26 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

very helpful and detailed info thank you so much, so after some research in whats available in my country ( 3rd world country so not everything is available) i found that the ASUS TUF GAMING TF120 is closest to what you and previous comments have recommended in terms of specs, what do you think?
https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/cooling/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-tf120-argb-fan-triple-fan-kit-with-argb-controller/techspec/

 

 

 

also should i consider getting 3 for the front, and use the old for rear + 1 or 2 at the top as exhaust fans, or do i have to get new  ones for the rear

 and top too ? 

That's a nice choice. Yes, 2 on the top rear should be fine. Since they are really weak, you could even use all 3.

[Poinkachu]

34 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

very helpful and detailed info thank you so much, so after some research in whats available in my country ( 3rd world country so not everything is available) i found that the ASUS TUF GAMING TF120 is closest to what you and previous comments have recommended in terms of specs, what do you think?
https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/cooling/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-tf120-argb-fan-triple-fan-kit-with-argb-controller/techspec/

 

 

 

also should i consider getting 3 for the front, and use the old for rear + 1 or 2 at the top as exhaust fans, or do i have to get new  ones for the rear

 and top too ? 

 

7 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

That's a nice choice. Yes, 2 on the top rear should be fine. Since they are really weak, you could even use all 3.

 

Spec wise looks fine, albeit not the level of noise I'd like. But that's me.

also, try to do a bit of review searching about it in the internet, to see if there's any inherent defect or flaw, or whatever.

Even if it's just to see whether they uses standard connector for the fan and the RGB. Some fans comes with proprietary connector that you need that own brand's fan hub or an adapter (An adapter that may or may not exist at your local marketplace).

 

Just do a tryout with each setup.

3 front, 1 rear. How's temp?

then try

3 front, 1 rear, 1 top rear

 

I honestly think the only 2 times you should use 2 or 3 fans on top are :

1. You use an AIO

2. All your intake fans is at the bottom.

 

With a strong enough AP fan, the front top fan gonna blast air over your RAM to your CPU cooler's fan.

Adding a fan on top of the RAM as exhaust might reduce the air that reach your CPU cooler.

[RevGAM]

57 minutes ago, Poinkachu said:

honestly think the only 2 times you should use 2 or 3 fans on top are :

1. You use an AIO

2. All your intake fans is at the bottom.

 

With a strong enough AP fan, the front top fan gonna blast air over your RAM to your CPU cooler's fan.

Adding a fan on top of the RAM as exhaust might reduce the air that reach your CPU cooler.

I only recommended that because those fans are so pathetic that they'd have a hard time disrupting the floor. In my PC, I have 2 weak fans occupying the first 2 ports and a T30 in the rear one. My front fans are 2 iPPC-3000 and another of the weak fans. Along with the 3 ML120s in the side and the A12x25 in the rear, plus my U12A, it keeps my computer significantly cooler than the TR Frozen Notte I'm currently testing with just the rear exhaust. Well, at least in the configurations I've tried so far.

 

2 hours ago, AnxiousBeat said:

helps alot, my last question is what is considered a high AF/SP value, 

It's pretty rare to see a fan with AF over 100 CFM, so at 75 and above is really nice.  For SP, below 1 mmAq is only good for exhaust, really, >1 is important for a heatsink and greater than 3 is best for radiator. There is a point of diminishing returns, though, which is heavily influenced by multiple factors, including the fan thickness and blade design. 

 

And, no, I don't know why they use imperial for AF but metric for SP. Lol!

[AnxiousBeat]

3 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

I only recommended that because those fans are so pathetic that they'd have a hard time disrupting the floor. In my PC, I have 2 weak fans occupying the first 2 ports and a T30 in the rear one. My front fans are 2 iPPC-3000 and another of the weak fans. Along with the 3 ML120s in the side and the A12x25 in the rear, plus my U12A, it keeps my computer significantly cooler than the TR Frozen Notte I'm currently testing with just the rear exhaust. Well, at least in the configurations I've tried so far.

 

It's pretty rare to see a fan with AF over 100 CFM, so at 75 and above is really nice.  For SP, below 1 mmAq is only good for exhaust, really, >1 is important for a heatsink and greater than 3 is best for radiator. There is a point of diminishing returns, though, which is heavily influenced by multiple factors, including the fan thickness and blade design. 

 

And, no, I don't know why they use imperial for AF but metric for SP. Lol!

so i ended up getting 4 of those asus fans, 3 for front and for the back, do you think that will be enough or should i place one of the old at the top? or are these asus fans not good as exhaust and i should only use the old ones at the back? 

also i have a completely separate question and please excuse my stupidity, so the asus fans come with a hub of 4 fans and connects them all into one of the ARGB pins on the mobo, and comes with a 3 to 1 pmw connected that connects to the motherboard fan header, and they mention you can control the ARGB via the controller buttons or Asus aura sync, the problem is i have an msi b650-p pro wifi motherboard, it has ARGB fan headers and all, but what im not sure about is whether or not i ll be able to control the fans speed if i dont have an asus motherboard, and whether or not i can control the ARGB via msi mystic light for example ? 

 

[Poinkachu]

Just now, RevGAM said:

I only recommended that because those fans are so pathetic that they'd have a hard time disrupting the floor. In my PC, I have 2 weak fans occupying the first 2 ports and a T30 in the rear one. My front fans are 2 iPPC-3000 and another of the weak fans. Along with the 3 ML120s in the side and the A12x25 in the rear, plus my U12A, it keeps my computer significantly cooler than the TR Frozen Notte I'm currently testing with just the rear exhaust. Well, at least in the configurations I've tried so far.

 

It's pretty rare to see a fan with AF over 100 CFM, so at 75 and above is really nice.  For SP, below 1 mmAq is only good for exhaust, really, >1 is important for a heatsink and greater than 3 is best for radiator. There is a point of diminishing returns, though, which is heavily influenced by multiple factors, including the fan thickness and blade design. 

 

And, no, I don't know why they use imperial for AF but metric for SP. Lol!

I see.

Well, not like I'm a scientist about this or anything, but IMO for something as light as air even a small disruption can reduce/change it's flow greatly.

His case most likely gonna be a positive pressure inside the case anyway, so all other holes gonna be a passive exhaust.

But yep, things like this can be quite a case-by-case scenario. So just try out different configs, at the very least it's not that hard to install / uninstall fans in modern pc case. In my PC case that'll be like battling a Balrog without Gandalf in a bedroom instead of a bridge..

 

If anything I'd say he probably need a better exhaust fan too than a multiple exhaust on top. At least 1, at the rear.

Maybe that'll help send out hot air expelled from the leftmost fan of the GPU faster.

[AnxiousBeat]

3 minutes ago, Poinkachu said:

I see.

Well, not like I'm a scientist about this or anything, but IMO for something as light as air even a small disruption can reduce/change it's flow greatly.

His case most likely gonna be a positive pressure inside the case anyway, so all other holes gonna be a passive exhaust.

But yep, things like this can be quite a case-by-case scenario. So just try out different configs, at the very least it's not that hard to install / uninstall fans in modern pc case. In my PC case that'll be like battling a Balrog without Gandalf in a bedroom instead of a bridge..

 

If anything I'd say he probably need a better exhaust fan too than a multiple exhaust on top. At least 1, at the rear.

Maybe that'll help send out hot air expelled from the leftmost fan of the GPU faster.

i have got 4 of those asus fans, planning to use one of them as exhaust, will it work or are their specs not the best for exhaust fans ? 

[TatamiMatt]

6 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

i have got 4 of those asus fans, planning to use one of them as exhaust, will it work or are their specs not the best for exhaust fans ? 

Theyre good for exhaust, use one of the asus fans for rear exhaust and one of the old fans for top exhaust, there was a post floating about i saw a little while ago about exhaust fan layouts, 2 exhaust, one rear and one top was the best layout for temps by a noticeable amount

 

Edit: Found it; Exhaust fan test post

[Poinkachu]

7 minutes ago, AnxiousBeat said:

so i ended up getting 4 of those asus fans, 3 for front and for the back, do you think that will be enough or should i place one of the old at the top? or are these asus fans not good as exhaust and i should only use the old ones at the back? 

also i have a completely separate question and please excuse my stupidity, so the asus fans come with a hub of 4 fans and connects them all into one of the ARGB pins on the mobo, and comes with a 3 to 1 pmw connected that connects to the motherboard fan header, and they mention you can control the ARGB via the controller buttons or Asus aura sync, the problem is i have an msi b650-p pro wifi motherboard, it has ARGB fan headers and all, but what im not sure about is whether or not i ll be able to control the fans speed if i dont have an asus motherboard, and whether or not i can control the ARGB via msi mystic light for example ?

 

1 minute ago, AnxiousBeat said:

i have got 4 of those asus fans, planning to use one of them as exhaust, will it work or are their specs not the best for exhaust fans ? 

 

They should be fine.

 

You can use the hub, or you can directly plug to your motherboard. Your choice.

The hub will make cable management a bit tidier and easier. Although since you most likely gonna place the hub inside the case, those buttons on the hub is pretty much useless.

 

You can control your fan curve using BIOS at the very least. Regardless of the brand of the fan and motherboard.

Or if you want more in OS software based control, at the very least there's FanControl software.

If you connect 3 Fans using a 3to1 adapter, then those 3 Fans will act as one. Meaning, if you change the curve for one of them, all 3 will use the same curve.

Because BIOS basing it on the header itself. And since those 3 are connected to the same header through 3to1 adapter... they're counted as 1.

 

Front IO button connector is for when you have a special LED control button on your PC case's front I/O. Or atleast a button aside from POWER that you want to repurpose. If you don't have it, no biggie.

 

Not that I'm an RGB enthusiast, but I'd say most likely you will be able to change the color using MSI Mystic Light.

Since logically all that software does is to send RGB signal to the LEDs through the header.

And all the LEDs on the fan does is to accept and perform as commanded.

Same goes for fan control signal.

 

If it really doesn't work, then optionally you can install ASUS whatever proprietary software, or a 3rd party software, like SignalRGB or OpenRGB.

 

Basically, unless explicitly specified otherwise, the brand of the motherboard doesn't matter.

[AnxiousBeat]

Okay that makes everything clear, thank you everyone for the help, i will keep you updated on the results

[RevGAM]

There doesn't seem to be much info about the fan hub. Does it have only 4 ARGB ports, or are there also 4 PWM ports? You can plug the ARGB cable into the hub and use the buttons to control them or, as @Poinkachusaid, you can use SignalRGB or OpenRGB.

 

If the hub doesn't have PWM ports, you can buy a PWM hub or splitters or, if you've got lots of PWM headers, use them all. 

 

Fan speeds can be controlled by your mobo software or BIOS fan curves, or you can use 3rd party software like Fan Control by Rem0o. As they said, the 4 fans will act as one. If you want individual control of your fans, you'll need enough headers, or you'll have to buy or build a fully functional fan controller

 

Yes, using the 4 Asus fans like that is great. My suggestion about the fans remains the same, although I invite you to experiment by first adding one of the old fans on top in the rear port.

 

Before adding old fans on top, download and install HWInfo or some other program (including your mobo software) that will show you the temps for the CPU and GC, and either play a game or run a benchmark like Unigine Superposition or a 3DMark benchmark like Time Spy, Port Royal or Speed Way. 3DMark is better because it will track the temps for you, so you won't actually need HWInfo.  Note the temperatures for the CPU and GC. Screenshot it or, if you use HWInfo, you can use the record function in the main window to save the data. You can also select specific temperature sensors to be displayed on your screen with a graph, minimum, average and maximum temps of you want. 

 

That's your baseline. Now add one fan on top and run the same benchmark. Note the temps. Add another fan and repeat. Feel free to try different locations for 1-2 fans on top to see what gives you the best results. 

 

 

[Poinkachu]

38 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

There doesn't seem to be much info about the fan hub. Does it have only 4 ARGB ports, or are there also 4 PWM ports? You can plug the ARGB cable into the hub and use the buttons to control them or, as @Poinkachusaid, you can use SignalRGB or OpenRGB.

 

If the hub doesn't have PWM ports, you can buy a PWM hub or splitters or, if you've got lots of PWM headers, use them all. 

 

Fan speeds can be controlled by your mobo software or BIOS fan curves, or you can use 3rd party software like Fan Control by Rem0o. As they said, the 4 fans will act as one. If you want individual control of your fans, you'll need enough headers, or you'll have to buy or build a fully functional fan controller

 

Yes, using the 4 Asus fans like that is great. My suggestion about the fans remains the same, although I invite you to experiment by first adding one of the old fans on top in the rear port.

 

Before adding old fans on top, download and install HWInfo or some other program (including your mobo software) that will show you the temps for the CPU and GC, and either play a game or run a benchmark like Unigine Superposition or a 3DMark benchmark like Time Spy, Port Royal or Speed Way. 3DMark is better because it will track the temps for you, so you won't actually need HWInfo.  Note the temperatures for the CPU and GC. Screenshot it or, if you use HWInfo, you can use the record function in the main window to save the data. You can also select specific temperature sensors to be displayed on your screen with a graph, minimum, average and maximum temps of you want. 

 

That's your baseline. Now add one fan on top and run the same benchmark. Note the temps. Add another fan and repeat. Feel free to try different locations for 1-2 fans on top to see what gives you the best results. 

 

 

It is just 4 headers RGB hub/controller btw.

Hence why they bothered with adding 3to1 PWM adapter cable.

 

https://www.microcenter.com/product/651071/asus-tuf-gaming-tf120-argb-chassis-fan

[AnxiousBeat]

2 hours ago, RevGAM said:

There doesn't seem to be much info about the fan hub. Does it have only 4 ARGB ports, or are there also 4 PWM ports? You can plug the ARGB cable into the hub and use the buttons to control them or, as @Poinkachusaid, you can use SignalRGB or OpenRGB.

 

If the hub doesn't have PWM ports, you can buy a PWM hub or splitters or, if you've got lots of PWM headers, use them all. 

 

Fan speeds can be controlled by your mobo software or BIOS fan curves, or you can use 3rd party software like Fan Control by Rem0o. As they said, the 4 fans will act as one. If you want individual control of your fans, you'll need enough headers, or you'll have to buy or build a fully functional fan controller

 

Yes, using the 4 Asus fans like that is great. My suggestion about the fans remains the same, although I invite you to experiment by first adding one of the old fans on top in the rear port.

 

Before adding old fans on top, download and install HWInfo or some other program (including your mobo software) that will show you the temps for the CPU and GC, and either play a game or run a benchmark like Unigine Superposition or a 3DMark benchmark like Time Spy, Port Royal or Speed Way. 3DMark is better because it will track the temps for you, so you won't actually need HWInfo.  Note the temperatures for the CPU and GC. Screenshot it or, if you use HWInfo, you can use the record function in the main window to save the data. You can also select specific temperature sensors to be displayed on your screen with a graph, minimum, average and maximum temps of you want. 

 

That's your baseline. Now add one fan on top and run the same benchmark. Note the temps. Add another fan and repeat. Feel free to try different locations for 1-2 fans on top to see what gives you the best results. 

 

 

i ll definitely try this and share the results here, i have just one question about HWINFO regarding the cpu temp, i have two sections for it and only one show temps that are split into multiple section, which one is important to keep track of? and i noticed that under heavy load it shoots to 95 sometimes and goes back down, after some research i learned that its normal for Ryzen 7000 series to do that, is that true?