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H115i not doing so well

2 minutes ago, OU812 said:

Holy crap, some system specs.

I tried asking you specifically for advice, you made it clear you didn't want to help. Why would I send them to you?

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1 minute ago, TremblingSphincter said:

I tried asking you specifically for advice, you made it clear you didn't want to help. Why would I send them to you?

Its not just for me. Other people might need that to be able to help. 🤣

Main Rig:

Ryzen 5800x, ASUS Crosshair Hero VII Wi-Fi, 32gb of Corsair Vengence Pro SL 3600 CL18, MSI Ventus 2 OC RTX 3060 12gb, Corsair H115i Pro AIO cooler, Soundblaster AE-7, Beyerdynamic DT 990 Edition 600Ohm headphones, Creative Giga Speakers, 1tb ADATA SX8200 NVME SSD, 1tb Intel 665P NVME SSD, 500gb Samsung 850 EVO SATA SSD, 8tb WB Black SATA HDD, LG SATA Blue Ray Drive, Corsair CX850M PSU, Coolermaster Stryker case, ROG ARGB strips, China ARGB fans, China ARGB SSD heat sink. 🤣

 

HTPC:

Erying 11800 ES CPU/Mobo combo, 32GB of Corsair LPX 3200 CL16, Gigabyte 4060 8gb LP, Thermalright AXP90 full copper cooler, WD Black SN770 500gb NVME SSD, WD Black SN770 1tb NVME SSD, Crucial MX500 2tb SATA SSD, WD Blue 2tb SATA HDD, Pioneer Blu-Ray burner, Intel AX200 WiFi/Bluetooth, Seasonic 300w TFX PSU, Silverstone ML11 case. STILL NO RGB! 😭

 

Retro Gamer PC:

VIA C3 1000Mhz, VIA Epia PD-10000 LVDS, 1gb of Kingston DDR, PNY Geforce FX5500 128mb PCI, WD 80GB HDD, Random CD-ROM, Random 250w mini psu, Mini ITX case 🤣

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8 minutes ago, OU812 said:

So your running some clock speed profile in the BIOS from ASUS? Never had those work for me. Maybe a return to stock? Don't know if you have tried that, you haven't listed your trouble shooting.

As I HAVE said, I got new faster RAM, although i dont suspect that. I tried wiping the computer and got fresh drivers, I tried fresh thermal paste, I turned it all around to get bubbles out of the pump, I got new fans and I leave the case half apart. that last one is the one I havent said yet.

It was also doing the same on the stock clocks. no difference in frequency as far as i can tell.

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5 minutes ago, TremblingSphincter said:

As I HAVE said, I got new faster RAM, although i dont suspect that. I tried wiping the computer and got fresh drivers, I tried fresh thermal paste, I turned it all around to get bubbles out of the pump, I got new fans and I leave the case half apart. that last one is the one I havent said yet.

It was also doing the same on the stock clocks. no difference in frequency as far as i can tell.

it can only be: 

1.bad mount to the cpu (poor contact) - (easy to fix)

2.low or now pump speed  (dead pump hard, wrong setings easy)

3.lack of water ( medium ..)

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18 minutes ago, TremblingSphincter said:

Well, it says "CPU too hot" for like 10 minutes each time I try to start it after it happens, sometimes longer, sometimes it just needs 1 minute. but its not necessarily just netflix, sometimes its loading a program or game, sometimes its a 3rd tab.

I cant seem to find the code, but its for sure some sort of generic "CPU Too Hot" i believe. 

what I dont understand is that no matter how much I stress test it, itll never blue screen from heat. only when im playing with GPU and cpu clocks. CPU clock is now some asus profile, 4.2... what is it GHz?

 

I have an strix rx480,

some gold efficiency semi modular 650 W evga PSU

MOBO is a strix z270-H

16 GBs from some trident z at 3600  theres 2 more sticks in the mail but was also happening with my slower Corsair LPX ram

So its having issues when your playing with the clocks?

Main Rig:

Ryzen 5800x, ASUS Crosshair Hero VII Wi-Fi, 32gb of Corsair Vengence Pro SL 3600 CL18, MSI Ventus 2 OC RTX 3060 12gb, Corsair H115i Pro AIO cooler, Soundblaster AE-7, Beyerdynamic DT 990 Edition 600Ohm headphones, Creative Giga Speakers, 1tb ADATA SX8200 NVME SSD, 1tb Intel 665P NVME SSD, 500gb Samsung 850 EVO SATA SSD, 8tb WB Black SATA HDD, LG SATA Blue Ray Drive, Corsair CX850M PSU, Coolermaster Stryker case, ROG ARGB strips, China ARGB fans, China ARGB SSD heat sink. 🤣

 

HTPC:

Erying 11800 ES CPU/Mobo combo, 32GB of Corsair LPX 3200 CL16, Gigabyte 4060 8gb LP, Thermalright AXP90 full copper cooler, WD Black SN770 500gb NVME SSD, WD Black SN770 1tb NVME SSD, Crucial MX500 2tb SATA SSD, WD Blue 2tb SATA HDD, Pioneer Blu-Ray burner, Intel AX200 WiFi/Bluetooth, Seasonic 300w TFX PSU, Silverstone ML11 case. STILL NO RGB! 😭

 

Retro Gamer PC:

VIA C3 1000Mhz, VIA Epia PD-10000 LVDS, 1gb of Kingston DDR, PNY Geforce FX5500 128mb PCI, WD 80GB HDD, Random CD-ROM, Random 250w mini psu, Mini ITX case 🤣

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1 hour ago, TremblingSphincter said:

"or a decent air cooler"? I'm looking for recommendations to improve and im not going to waste 130 bucks on a d15 to "test" it to have similar to worse performance. Improve is the key. The d15 in terms of performance is the air version of the h115i. If im crashing on water, i'm definitely crashing on air in the case its not the cooler. 

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE, Newegg has it for $33 or so last I checked. Performs better than or about on par with an NH-D15 depending on what review you watch.

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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22 minutes ago, OU812 said:

So its having issues when your playing with the clocks?

It was having issues stock that I couldn't figure out. Why not play a bit with clocks?

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32 minutes ago, Zando_ said:

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE, Newegg has it for $33 or so last I checked. Performs better than or about on par with an NH-D15 depending on what review you watch.

ooh now that might be appealing- for the price

 

EDIT: hahhaa i love canada, yeah its much more expensive so at that point im going to shell out for the bees knees

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25 minutes ago, NorKris said:

it can only be: 

1.bad mount to the cpu (poor contact) - (easy to fix)

2.low or now pump speed  (dead pump hard, wrong setings easy)

3.lack of water ( medium ..)

yeah I've snugged up the screws and reset the mount at least 3 times, each with a fresh dab of cooler master paste. The radiator does get warm when stress tested or gaming so low water doesnt seem like it. But also idfk at this point. I just checked pump speed, quiet mode its at 2000ish RPM, performance mode its 3000ish rpm. not sure if thats proper, but im also basically at idle.

What boggles me, is that i can have the cpu temps at 98 for half an hour no problems, basic throttling, but then it might overheat opening gmail or something random. I cant recreate it, its not one specific thing that triggers it. 

 

Its almost as if the load goes up to 110% out of the blue and it blows a gasket. But i cant for the life of me figure out why.

Is it possible the thermal paste just doesn't transfer that heat fast enough in those situations? after i get my system back on, the water temp can be under 30 degrees, but then on the stress tests it does fine...

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11 minutes ago, TremblingSphincter said:

It was having issues stock that I couldn't figure out. Why not play a bit with clocks?

Because playing with clocks introduces another variable into what could be wrong. 🤔

Main Rig:

Ryzen 5800x, ASUS Crosshair Hero VII Wi-Fi, 32gb of Corsair Vengence Pro SL 3600 CL18, MSI Ventus 2 OC RTX 3060 12gb, Corsair H115i Pro AIO cooler, Soundblaster AE-7, Beyerdynamic DT 990 Edition 600Ohm headphones, Creative Giga Speakers, 1tb ADATA SX8200 NVME SSD, 1tb Intel 665P NVME SSD, 500gb Samsung 850 EVO SATA SSD, 8tb WB Black SATA HDD, LG SATA Blue Ray Drive, Corsair CX850M PSU, Coolermaster Stryker case, ROG ARGB strips, China ARGB fans, China ARGB SSD heat sink. 🤣

 

HTPC:

Erying 11800 ES CPU/Mobo combo, 32GB of Corsair LPX 3200 CL16, Gigabyte 4060 8gb LP, Thermalright AXP90 full copper cooler, WD Black SN770 500gb NVME SSD, WD Black SN770 1tb NVME SSD, Crucial MX500 2tb SATA SSD, WD Blue 2tb SATA HDD, Pioneer Blu-Ray burner, Intel AX200 WiFi/Bluetooth, Seasonic 300w TFX PSU, Silverstone ML11 case. STILL NO RGB! 😭

 

Retro Gamer PC:

VIA C3 1000Mhz, VIA Epia PD-10000 LVDS, 1gb of Kingston DDR, PNY Geforce FX5500 128mb PCI, WD 80GB HDD, Random CD-ROM, Random 250w mini psu, Mini ITX case 🤣

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5 minutes ago, OU812 said:

Because playing with clocks introduces another variable into what could be wrong. 🤔

It could. But it seems to have no effect on the issue. 

Im pretty sure i tried underclocking it too but once again, no effect.

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3 hours ago, TremblingSphincter said:

It could. But it seems to have no effect on the issue. 

Im pretty sure i tried underclocking it too but once again, no effect.

overclocking did not do this, u can skip that thought 

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3 hours ago, TremblingSphincter said:

yeah I've snugged up the screws and reset the mount at least 3 times, each with a fresh dab of cooler master paste. The radiator does get warm when stress tested or gaming so low water doesnt seem like it. But also idfk at this point. I just checked pump speed, quiet mode its at 2000ish RPM, performance mode its 3000ish rpm. not sure if thats proper, but im also basically at idle.

What boggles me, is that i can have the cpu temps at 98 for half an hour no problems, basic throttling, but then it might overheat opening gmail or something random. I cant recreate it, its not one specific thing that triggers it. 

 

Its almost as if the load goes up to 110% out of the blue and it blows a gasket. But i cant for the life of me figure out why.

Is it possible the thermal paste just doesn't transfer that heat fast enough in those situations? after i get my system back on, the water temp can be under 30 degrees, but then on the stress tests it does fine...

if it happend to me:

unscreew the coldplate, clean it with a toothbrush

get new destiled water and fill the AIO while keeping the coldplate part the highest point

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2 minutes ago, TechlessBro said:

99.999% sure you’re right, but it could have if he fried the temp sensor in the cpu from overclocking or playing with voltage.

its possible, never seen it before or done it myself, temp sensors does take heat better than transistors soo   

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2 minutes ago, TechlessBro said:

Nether but have had strange faults after pushing CPU’s past the limits.
I”m just guessing silicon lottery applies to every part of the cpu.

u can watch the Watt reading tho? and its ALOT of temps sensors, dont rly think thats the  problem

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4 hours ago, NorKris said:

if it happend to me:

unscreew the coldplate, clean it with a toothbrush

get new destiled water and fill the AIO while keeping the coldplate part the highest point

oooh this should be easy enough. Ill probably need to buy allen keys for the 24th time. but yeah there was noticeable air in the system when installing it, so i made sure to keep it out of the pump but yeah maybe its just too low. Silicone lubricant on the gasket while im in there? any recommendation on thermal paste for cheap?

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5 hours ago, TechlessBro said:

99.999% sure you’re right, but it could have if he fried the temp sensor in the cpu from overclocking or playing with voltage.

I tried figuring out what mobo temp sensors were where, they float all over, i have no earthly idea. Not sure if this is looking right but its what I got haha.

I never pushed the clocks too hard, over voltage scared me so i got up to 5.2 very unstable but im no oc master so i backed it off, i was running it at 4.8 healthy when it was more a work system, now its closer to 4.2 now that its just for games.

Temp sensors.PNG

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Hwinfo64 is the go to program if u suspect errors in tempsensing 

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50 minutes ago, NorKris said:

Hwinfo64 is the go to program if u suspect errors in tempsensing 

Holy smokes this program is sweet. how is it only now I'm finding this? i was looking for just this for yearsssss. thank you.

 

It has been so long since ive been trying to fix this. Is 100 degree core temp normal when im just on google? albeit i have maybe 10 tabs open but i see those high package temps often. I see the videos and that doesn't seem normal to me but I just dont even know anymore. I know its not the average, but it often spikes to 100 from nothing in particular. My gpu for example behaves normal to me, it slowly grows in temp, but maybe thats from something else? are they supposed to behave that differently?

I think ive been fairly good to keep bloatware off, maybe not as picky as some people but I get rid of what I can

CPU temps.PNG

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like i said, its been so long. but back in the day I was almost thinking of doing the thing where you pop open the cpu and do the liquid metal. but thats too much commitment and idk if that would even change it

 

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31 minutes ago, TremblingSphincter said:

Holy smokes this program is sweet. how is it only now I'm finding this? i was looking for just this for yearsssss. thank you.

 

It has been so long since ive been trying to fix this. Is 100 degree core temp normal when im just on google? albeit i have maybe 10 tabs open but i see those high package temps often. I see the videos and that doesn't seem normal to me but I just dont even know anymore. I know its not the average, but it often spikes to 100 from nothing in particular. My gpu for example behaves normal to me, it slowly grows in temp, but maybe thats from something else? are they supposed to behave that differently?

I think ive been fairly good to keep bloatware off, maybe not as picky as some people but I get rid of what I can

CPU temps.PNG

101c at 41w ... DAMN. thats worse than no thermalpaste xD

 

bad mount or clougged up coldplate or no water 

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I really want to cut a tube on my H100 to see how little is left.. only one problem though.. it was a Christmas gift from my wife. Yeah its a piece of junk now.. but it is what it is..

AMD R7 5800X3D | Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO, 1x T30

Asus Crosshair VIII Dark Hero | 32GB G.Skill Trident Z @ 3733C14

Zotac 4070 Ti Trinity OC @ 3060/1495 | WD SN850, SN850X, SN770

Seasonic Vertex GX-1000 | Fractal Torrent Compact RGB, Many CFM's

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3 minutes ago, freeagent said:

I really want to cut a tube on my H100 to see how little is left.. only one problem though.. it was a Christmas gift from my wife. Yeah its a piece of junk now.. but it is what it is..

grab a screewdriver, unscrew the coldplate, take the water out and mesure how much is there, clean the coldplate, fill it with destilled water, boom top performer again 

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9 minutes ago, NorKris said:

101c at 41w ... DAMN. thats worse than no thermalpaste xD

 

bad mount or clougged up coldplate or no water 

Holy fucking shit. It knows. It knows its on the brink of a damn rebuild and it's acting a vengeance.

Let's see if I can attach all the pictures. Thos was in the last 10 maybe 15 minutes. Since you replied.

20230401_081738.jpg

20230401_081804.jpg

20230401_082934.jpg

20230401_083338.jpg

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