Jump to content

Car a/c blows warm at idle and cool when driving. HELP!!

mkessler9

Ok so I have a Chevy Trailblazer 2004 vehicle. In the past the air conditioner has worked fine at idle(I think, don't remember since the last time I used the a/c was last year). 

 

I literally just checked the a/c pressure about 20mins ago and the pressure is normal for the temperature outside. So if its not the pressure being low then what is it? I wouldn't think it would be the compressor since it gets cold air when driving. 

 

I would think it could be not enough air is passing through the condenser at idle but that wouldn't make since because why would Chevy make it so that the default setup doesn't blow cold at  idle?

 

So what do you think could be the problem? 

 

Thanks.

Gaming rig- Cpu- Amd 9590, 16gbs of G Skill Ram, Gpu- GTX 760 windforce 3 edition 2gb. A Thermaltake water 2.0 water cooler for my cpu. Keyboard- Thermaltake Posieden , Case- 750D, Mobo Asus 990fx R2.0. 24 inch Dell LED monitor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Found this from another forum for ya'.

 

the pressure is most likely shooting up due to a weak fan clutch.no airflow over the condenser will make the ac suck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually I let my car idle for about 5-10 before turning on my A/C (2014 Mustang V6) because it doesn't blow cold air as soon as you turn it on. Then again, I only do that in the summer.

ACS Systems - Jason Neal

My "Danger Den" PC: i7-4960x @ 4.5Ghz, ASUS X79 Deluxe, 3x GTX Titan Black, 6x m4 512GB, 64GB Corsair DDR3-2400, Corsair AX1500i

Black Beauty Workstation/LAN PC: i5-4570 @ 3.79 GHz, ASRock Z87E-ITX, XFX Double D R9-280 (Non-X), GSkill 8GB DDR3-2400

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like the fan over the condenser. 

Case: Fractal Design Define R4 MB: MSI Z77A-GD55  CPU: i5 3330 OCd to 3.4Ghz CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu 2x8GB @ 1600MHz GPU: Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming PSU: Seasonic M12II 650W HDD: Two Seagate Barracuda 2TB @ 7200 RPM SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it possible that you might have to recharge it?

 

SIDENOTE: We had a 1994 Buick Roadmaster Custom, and whenever my dad charged the A/C up, if you drove it around and had it on max, frost would form on the events, even though it would be 32-33C outside. The heater sucked in it though.

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually I let my car idle for about 5-10 before turning on my A/C (2014 Mustang V6) because it doesn't blow cold air as soon as you turn it on. Then again, I only do that in the summer.

Yea but for me its anytime the car is at idle. No matter if it's just been started or if its been running for two hours and I come to a stop.

 

Found this from another forum for ya'.

 

the pressure is most likely shooting up due to a weak fan clutch.no airflow over the condenser will make the ac suck

 

Sounds like the fan over the condenser. 

That's what I was thinking with the airflow. But its the stock fan and hasn't changed since it was bought, and the fan seems to blow tons of air. Its just really hot (which is normal). But if it wasn't enough airflow wouldn't the engine be overheating too since the engine radiator needs tons of air to?

Gaming rig- Cpu- Amd 9590, 16gbs of G Skill Ram, Gpu- GTX 760 windforce 3 edition 2gb. A Thermaltake water 2.0 water cooler for my cpu. Keyboard- Thermaltake Posieden , Case- 750D, Mobo Asus 990fx R2.0. 24 inch Dell LED monitor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it possible that you might have to recharge it?

 

SIDENOTE: We had a 1994 Buick Roadmaster Custom, and whenever my dad charged the A/C up, if you drove it around and had it on max, frost would form on the events, even though it would be 32-33C outside. The heater sucked in it though.

The pressure in the system is normal. I just checked it about a half an hour ago as I said earlier. So it isn't low pressure causing it. I planned on just taking it to my local autoshop tomorrow but wanted to consult with you guys first.

Gaming rig- Cpu- Amd 9590, 16gbs of G Skill Ram, Gpu- GTX 760 windforce 3 edition 2gb. A Thermaltake water 2.0 water cooler for my cpu. Keyboard- Thermaltake Posieden , Case- 750D, Mobo Asus 990fx R2.0. 24 inch Dell LED monitor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The pressure in the system is normal. I just checked it about a half an hour ago as I said earlier. So it isn't low pressure causing it. I planned on just taking it to my local autoshop tomorrow but wanted to consult with you guys first.

Oops. My bad. :P

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The pressure in the system is normal. I just checked it about a half an hour ago as I said earlier. So it isn't low pressure causing it. I planned on just taking it to my local autoshop tomorrow but wanted to consult with you guys first.

How did you check the pressures? You have a set of gauges?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

How did you check the pressures? You have a set of gauges?

I had one of those gauges that you can attach to a bottle of the refrigerant and attached it to one of my extra bottles and ran the car with the a/c on high and attached it to the low pressure end of the system

Gaming rig- Cpu- Amd 9590, 16gbs of G Skill Ram, Gpu- GTX 760 windforce 3 edition 2gb. A Thermaltake water 2.0 water cooler for my cpu. Keyboard- Thermaltake Posieden , Case- 750D, Mobo Asus 990fx R2.0. 24 inch Dell LED monitor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

My dad would idle the 2011 Subaru Impreza until the cold LED light turned off, and then he would use the A/C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try resetting the uefi and retry the overclock start off with a slight undervold and work your way up. Try downloading more freon but stay away from the torent sites some of the freon is corupted with water.

Make sure the firewall isnt causing an issue. Try linux as microsofts latest car os has removed the compressor. they removed the compressor for this ne metro ice that turned out to be useless.

Lol though this was funny by the time u read this I will have had second thoughtsnon this post lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gm vehicles used clutch fans till late 07 got replaced later on with electric ones. Trail blazers usually have this problem too. This has nothing to do with to little refrigerant or pressure, as you drive the road things starts cooling down. Clutch fans are usually tied with the cars temperature. Now if the vehicle is cold and has been sitting to long the clutch won't apply.

I remember when I had 2001 Silverado which I replaced the fan shroud and clutch assembly with a electric harness to avoid over heating, better performance, reduced noise etc... Things get abit warm here man so good luck.

|EVGA 850 P2| |1440p PG279Q| |X570 Aorus Extreme| |Ryzen 9 3950x WC| |FE 2080Ti WC|TridentZ Neo 64GB| |Samsung 970 EVO M.2 1TB x3

 |Logitech G900|K70 Cherry MX Speed|  |Logitech Z906 |  |HD650|  |CaseLabs SMA8 (one of the last ones made)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most likely its a condenser fan, when your driving, the ram air is cooling the refrigerant inside the condenser, and at idle (stopped, no ram air) it isn't getting sufficient airflow for cooling, therefore not working. check the fans and see if they're cutting in and doing their normal cycle, check that the compressor clutch is cutting in, should be able to tell that quite easily. other than that take it to someone who can re-gas it, might be a clogged filter also, they'll change that out when doing the service, if they don't pick up on whats wrong, you've got yourself a bad tech. Diesel mechanic  finally came in with some useful advice on this forum. Yay for me. @pcmasterguy

 

Yea but for me its anytime the car is at idle. No matter if it's just been started or if its been running for two hours and I come to a stop.

 

 

That's what I was thinking with the airflow. But its the stock fan and hasn't changed since it was bought, and the fan seems to blow tons of air. Its just really hot (which is normal). But if it wasn't enough airflow wouldn't the engine be overheating too since the engine radiator needs tons of air to?

 the engine wouldn't necessarily overheat because of the overall larger rad, less airflow needed.

Corsair Graphite 230T Case , AMD A8 6600K 4-Core Processor cooled by a CoolerMaster Hyper 212X CPU Cooler, MSI A88X G45 Gaming Motherboard, Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB 2133Mhz, Sapphire Radeon R9 280X Dual-X OC 3GB, Samsung 840 EVO Series 120GB SSD + Western Digital WD Green 1TB + 3x Toshiba 500GB HDD, Corsair CS750M Modular PSU,all cooled with 4 Case fans, Displayed in 1080p on a 50" Samsung LED Smart TV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×