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Ryzen 7 5700X caps out at 3.7GHz

ive ran multiple stress tests

and i keep getting only 3.7ghz

 

image.png.56d8219cb99113561a6434cff502e579.png

 

 

 

my cooler is a 360 rad aio

 

please help

Dont forget to mark as solution if your question is answered

Note: My advice is amateur help/beginner troubleshooting, someone else can probably troubleshoot way better than me.

- I do have some experience, and I can use google pretty well. - Feel free to quote me I may respond soon.

 

Join team Red, my apprentice

 

STOP SIDING WITH NVIDIA

 

Setup:
Ryzen 7 5800X3DSapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX 24GB / ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming / Cooler Master ML360 Illusion CPU Cooler / EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 / Lian Li Dynamic Evo White Case / 2x16 GB Kingston FURY RAM / 2x 1TB Lexar 710 / iiYama 1440p 165HZ Montitor, iiYama 1080p 75Hz Monitor / Shure MV7 w/ Focusrite Scarlett Solo / GK61 Keyboard / Cooler Master MM712 (daily driver) Logitech G502-X (MMO mouse) / Soundcore Life Q20 w/ Arctis 3 w/ WF-1000XM3

 

CPU OC: -30 all cores @AutoGhz

GPU OC: 3Ghz Core 2750Mhz Memory w/ 25%W increase (460W)

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1 minute ago, Blqckqut said:

ive ran multiple stress tests

and i keep getting only 3.7ghz

 

image.png.56d8219cb99113561a6434cff502e579.png

 

 

 

my cooler is a 360 rad aio

 

please help

what are the max temps when you hit 3.7ghz?

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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motherboard has multiple settings for precision boost and precision boost overdrive. if you're in an eco mode it can lock to a lower than max clock.

 

Primary System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R6 5700X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350M mortar arctic
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair RGB 3600MT/s CAS18
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 3070 OC
  • Case
    kind of a mess
  • Storage
    WD black NVMe SSD 500GB & 1TB samsung Sata ssd & x 1TB WD blue & x 3TB Seagate
  • PSU
    corsair RM750X white
  • Display(s)
    1440p 21:9 100Hz
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1 minute ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

motherboard has multiple settings for precision boost and precision boost overdrive. if you're in an eco mode it can lock to a lower than max clock.

Also a good possibility

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websiteshttps://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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13 minutes ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

motherboard has multiple settings for precision boost and precision boost overdrive. if you're in an eco mode it can lock to a lower than max clock.

 

i had to put my multiplier higher in bios haha figured it out

 

new issue tho

 

4.6GHz makes my entire pc super laggy

what do i do? reset bios and only use cpu miltiplier?

Dont forget to mark as solution if your question is answered

Note: My advice is amateur help/beginner troubleshooting, someone else can probably troubleshoot way better than me.

- I do have some experience, and I can use google pretty well. - Feel free to quote me I may respond soon.

 

Join team Red, my apprentice

 

STOP SIDING WITH NVIDIA

 

Setup:
Ryzen 7 5800X3DSapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX 24GB / ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming / Cooler Master ML360 Illusion CPU Cooler / EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 / Lian Li Dynamic Evo White Case / 2x16 GB Kingston FURY RAM / 2x 1TB Lexar 710 / iiYama 1440p 165HZ Montitor, iiYama 1080p 75Hz Monitor / Shure MV7 w/ Focusrite Scarlett Solo / GK61 Keyboard / Cooler Master MM712 (daily driver) Logitech G502-X (MMO mouse) / Soundcore Life Q20 w/ Arctis 3 w/ WF-1000XM3

 

CPU OC: -30 all cores @AutoGhz

GPU OC: 3Ghz Core 2750Mhz Memory w/ 25%W increase (460W)

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4 minutes ago, Blqckqut said:

i had to put my multiplier higher in bios haha figured it out

 

new issue tho

 

4.6GHz makes my entire pc super laggy

what do i do? reset bios and only use cpu miltiplier?

don't use the multiplier to lock frequency unless you're actually doing an overclock and you know that you're tweaking things.

I don't know what motherboard you have and if setting multiplier properly sets the other needed options for it to work.
it might report a speed but actually run at 1.5GHz because it didn't have the voltage and defaulted to safe mode

Primary System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R6 5700X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350M mortar arctic
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair RGB 3600MT/s CAS18
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 3070 OC
  • Case
    kind of a mess
  • Storage
    WD black NVMe SSD 500GB & 1TB samsung Sata ssd & x 1TB WD blue & x 3TB Seagate
  • PSU
    corsair RM750X white
  • Display(s)
    1440p 21:9 100Hz
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1 minute ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

don't use the multiplier to lock frequency unless you're actually doing an overclock and you know that you're tweaking things.

I don't know what motherboard you have and if setting multiplier properly sets the other needed options for it to work.
it might report a speed but actually run at 1.5GHz because it didn't have the voltage and defaulted to safe mode

no o its fine now, its bc i had my mouse in my usb hub that it seemed laggy, plugged it in motherboard and were al good

Dont forget to mark as solution if your question is answered

Note: My advice is amateur help/beginner troubleshooting, someone else can probably troubleshoot way better than me.

- I do have some experience, and I can use google pretty well. - Feel free to quote me I may respond soon.

 

Join team Red, my apprentice

 

STOP SIDING WITH NVIDIA

 

Setup:
Ryzen 7 5800X3DSapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX 24GB / ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming / Cooler Master ML360 Illusion CPU Cooler / EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 / Lian Li Dynamic Evo White Case / 2x16 GB Kingston FURY RAM / 2x 1TB Lexar 710 / iiYama 1440p 165HZ Montitor, iiYama 1080p 75Hz Monitor / Shure MV7 w/ Focusrite Scarlett Solo / GK61 Keyboard / Cooler Master MM712 (daily driver) Logitech G502-X (MMO mouse) / Soundcore Life Q20 w/ Arctis 3 w/ WF-1000XM3

 

CPU OC: -30 all cores @AutoGhz

GPU OC: 3Ghz Core 2750Mhz Memory w/ 25%W increase (460W)

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What motherboard are you using?? If it's a junk motherboard with no VRM cooling, the VRMs may be overheating. 

CPU Cooler Tier List  || Motherboard VRMs Tier List || Motherboard Beep & POST Codes || Graphics Card Tier List || PSU Tier List 

 

Main System Specifications: 

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X ||  CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Air Cooler ||  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4-3600 CL18  ||  Mobo: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero X570  ||  SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Boot Drive/Some Games)  ||  HDD: 2X Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB(Game Drive)  ||  GPU: ASUS TUF Gaming RX 6900XT  ||  PSU: EVGA P2 1600W  ||  Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow  ||  Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero SE RGB  ||  Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB with GX Blue Clicky Switches  ||  Mouse Pad: MAINGEAR ASSIST XL ||  Monitor: ASUS TUF Gaming VG34VQL1B 34" 

 

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5 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

What motherboard are you using?? If it's a junk motherboard with no VRM cooling, the VRMs may be overheating. 

it's in his signature in the footer

Primary System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R6 5700X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350M mortar arctic
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair RGB 3600MT/s CAS18
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 3070 OC
  • Case
    kind of a mess
  • Storage
    WD black NVMe SSD 500GB & 1TB samsung Sata ssd & x 1TB WD blue & x 3TB Seagate
  • PSU
    corsair RM750X white
  • Display(s)
    1440p 21:9 100Hz
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1 minute ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

it's in his signature in the footer

Thanks for pointing that out. I usually don't check signatures as some forum users do not update them to the latest hardware they are currently using and have questions in regards to newer hardware. 

CPU Cooler Tier List  || Motherboard VRMs Tier List || Motherboard Beep & POST Codes || Graphics Card Tier List || PSU Tier List 

 

Main System Specifications: 

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X ||  CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Air Cooler ||  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4-3600 CL18  ||  Mobo: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero X570  ||  SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Boot Drive/Some Games)  ||  HDD: 2X Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB(Game Drive)  ||  GPU: ASUS TUF Gaming RX 6900XT  ||  PSU: EVGA P2 1600W  ||  Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow  ||  Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero SE RGB  ||  Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB with GX Blue Clicky Switches  ||  Mouse Pad: MAINGEAR ASSIST XL ||  Monitor: ASUS TUF Gaming VG34VQL1B 34" 

 

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Just now, CommanderAlex said:

Thanks for pointing that out. I usually don't check signatures as some forum users do not update them to the latest hardware they are currently using and have questions in regards to newer hardware. 

yeah that legit reminded me to go update mine 😅

Primary System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R6 5700X
  • Motherboard
    MSI B350M mortar arctic
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair RGB 3600MT/s CAS18
  • GPU
    Zotac RTX 3070 OC
  • Case
    kind of a mess
  • Storage
    WD black NVMe SSD 500GB & 1TB samsung Sata ssd & x 1TB WD blue & x 3TB Seagate
  • PSU
    corsair RM750X white
  • Display(s)
    1440p 21:9 100Hz
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Quote

 ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming

That's a pretty decent motherboard that's definitely more than capable of a 5700X. Check to make sure your BIOS is up to date and chipset drivers are too. Shouldn't be a temperature issue as 360mm is plenty but the screenshot doesn't say what they are under load.

 

Is 3.7GHz all core frequency? 4.6GHz is max boost clock for a single-core on the 5700X.

 

3 minutes ago, SquintyG33Rs said:

yeah that legit reminded me to go update mine 😅

That's what I mean but in this case, it appears to be accurate as the OP is running a 5700X on a B550-F Gaming (AM4 socket). 

CPU Cooler Tier List  || Motherboard VRMs Tier List || Motherboard Beep & POST Codes || Graphics Card Tier List || PSU Tier List 

 

Main System Specifications: 

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X ||  CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Air Cooler ||  RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4-3600 CL18  ||  Mobo: ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero X570  ||  SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Boot Drive/Some Games)  ||  HDD: 2X Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB(Game Drive)  ||  GPU: ASUS TUF Gaming RX 6900XT  ||  PSU: EVGA P2 1600W  ||  Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow  ||  Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero SE RGB  ||  Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon RGB with GX Blue Clicky Switches  ||  Mouse Pad: MAINGEAR ASSIST XL ||  Monitor: ASUS TUF Gaming VG34VQL1B 34" 

 

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  • 10 months later...

@Blqckqut did you find any solution to this? Mine caps out at 3.7 too. When under load or during stress test, the graph shows that the CPU is being used 100%, but the clock never hit 3.8 GHz, let alone more than that.

  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : GIGABYTE M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4046)
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On 2/18/2024 at 10:59 AM, BlackCastle said:

@Blqckqut did you find any solution to this? Mine caps out at 3.7 too. When under load or during stress test, the graph shows that the CPU is being used 100%, but the clock never hit 3.8 GHz, let alone more than that.

not that i remember, but i do remember updating chipset and that helping, try setting core ratio to 44 in bios, this usualy makes it 4.4ghz

Dont forget to mark as solution if your question is answered

Note: My advice is amateur help/beginner troubleshooting, someone else can probably troubleshoot way better than me.

- I do have some experience, and I can use google pretty well. - Feel free to quote me I may respond soon.

 

Join team Red, my apprentice

 

STOP SIDING WITH NVIDIA

 

Setup:
Ryzen 7 5800X3DSapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX 24GB / ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming / Cooler Master ML360 Illusion CPU Cooler / EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 / Lian Li Dynamic Evo White Case / 2x16 GB Kingston FURY RAM / 2x 1TB Lexar 710 / iiYama 1440p 165HZ Montitor, iiYama 1080p 75Hz Monitor / Shure MV7 w/ Focusrite Scarlett Solo / GK61 Keyboard / Cooler Master MM712 (daily driver) Logitech G502-X (MMO mouse) / Soundcore Life Q20 w/ Arctis 3 w/ WF-1000XM3

 

CPU OC: -30 all cores @AutoGhz

GPU OC: 3Ghz Core 2750Mhz Memory w/ 25%W increase (460W)

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20 hours ago, Blqckqut said:

not that i remember, but i do remember updating chipset and that helping, try setting core ratio to 44 in bios, this usualy makes it 4.4ghz

@Blqckqut does that lock it to 4.4 GHz all the time? even during idle? I am trying to use 4.5 GHz all cores during load, and during idle, it would run at default clock speed.

  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : GIGABYTE M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4046)
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30 minutes ago, BlackCastle said:

@Blqckqut does that lock it to 4.4 GHz all the time? even during idle? I am trying to use 4.5 GHz all cores during load, and during idle, it would run at default clock speed.

no its not being locked

Dont forget to mark as solution if your question is answered

Note: My advice is amateur help/beginner troubleshooting, someone else can probably troubleshoot way better than me.

- I do have some experience, and I can use google pretty well. - Feel free to quote me I may respond soon.

 

Join team Red, my apprentice

 

STOP SIDING WITH NVIDIA

 

Setup:
Ryzen 7 5800X3DSapphire Nitro+ 7900XTX 24GB / ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming / Cooler Master ML360 Illusion CPU Cooler / EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 / Lian Li Dynamic Evo White Case / 2x16 GB Kingston FURY RAM / 2x 1TB Lexar 710 / iiYama 1440p 165HZ Montitor, iiYama 1080p 75Hz Monitor / Shure MV7 w/ Focusrite Scarlett Solo / GK61 Keyboard / Cooler Master MM712 (daily driver) Logitech G502-X (MMO mouse) / Soundcore Life Q20 w/ Arctis 3 w/ WF-1000XM3

 

CPU OC: -30 all cores @AutoGhz

GPU OC: 3Ghz Core 2750Mhz Memory w/ 25%W increase (460W)

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