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Build advise needed

2 hours ago, Zando_ said:

Again. Standard practice. The companies you listed are not the only ones to do so. Only if it effects actual performance does it matter. It would be nice if they'd put a revision # to denote hardware changes, but they don't. I don't care if you personally dislike the company due to what's perceived as an offense against consumers. Every companies offends consumers to make a buck, unless there's an actual effect to the product then each person can pick for themselves which company they'll harbor a grudge against. I have personal grievances with companies too, I do my best to not clutter my hardware advice with those opinions unless they're actually relevant. For example, I don't like AMD. And especially don't like AMD GPUs as I have personally had a rough time with their drivers. But it's what makes the most sense for OP, so thus my recommendation is AMD CPU, and either a 4070 Ti or AMD GPUs due to their price/performance. 

You repeated yourself. Just because it's "standard practice" doesn't mean that fraud is ok, or that it should be tolerated. I assume that, by "actual performance", you mean that there is a perceivable difference, rather than just a statistical one. I respect your extensive knowledge of computers.

 

We differ on this matter. You've implied that I'm offended when I'm clearly not. This is about protecting consumers from abuses by companies. I will continue to advise everyone not to buy their products; whether they choose to avoid those companies is entirely up to them. Whether I like a company or not is not relevant to whether I will suggest their products UNLESS the basis for my dislike is because of a legitimate problem, especially criminal behavior, which is behind a very large percentage of the problems that the public face. I'm not emotionally invested in this. I AM invested in holding companies and other entities accountable for their actions because so few people feel they can fight them. But they can. Inaction emboldens them.

As an example of a company I'm hesitant to recommend: I love NewEgg's website shopping experience over Amazon, Walmart, Best Buy, B&H and others - they have a building tool, a favorites list, a wish list, and a search function that actually works consistently - unlike Amazon, my employer, who seems to think that "customer-centric" doesn't apply to the website - I've complained both as a customer and an employee, to no avail. Where NewEgg falls short is not in the usually slightly higher-than-Amazon prices but in their support. I went through a major ordeal with them caused by the failures of both their customer support and fraud control teams to resolve an issue they caused, and they made it very difficult to get help, blowing off multiple escalations  after they banned 3 accounts one after the other because their fraud control team was too stupid to bother to find out the truth (I've worked in customer & tech support extensively, and also worked briefly in IT fraud control, so I'm not speaking as a newbie outsider). It was only because I was EXTREMELY persistent and threatened public exposure that I finally got help and the problem they caused was fixed. Mostly. It was disappointing when I received the 2nd part of my PC order, which included my CPU and mobo, only to find that the seal on the former had been cut (suggesting that this was a returned board) and the Intel seal was not sticking to the box (it was when the weather was too cold for it to have happened in transit, so this also suggests that it was no coincidence). They were willing to replace them if I wanted, but I could see no evidence of actual damage to either, so I accepted them with the assurance that if there were a problem, I would be able to return it. And then...I saw a video in which Gamer's Nexus ordered a board via NewEgg, only to receive a damaged RMA with the RMA sticker still on it. When they contacted NE, NE REFUSED to take it back despite the fact that they'd clearly received a damaged RMA as a new mobo. They were able to contact the manu, get confirmation that NE had sent it to them and then refused the repair cost. Eventually, they DID get NE to RMA it. This was in 2022. I've heard from people who've had problems with NE, too, so it's not a two-off problem. In contrast, although Amazon's website frustrates me, they often offer the best prices of the sites I've looked at (I used the Capital One Shopping browser add-on for a while and saved some money, then had trouble with a keylogger that may or may not have come from COS), and I've never had any problems with their customer service or RMAs. In fact, they've provided amongst the best I've experienced (in sharp contrast to their horrible HR department that most employees despise).

But we have hijacked this thread long enough. I do not find your reasoning to be compelling and you don't find my reasoning to be compelling. Let's just agree to disagree. Silently. 🙂

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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On 2/7/2023 at 2:57 PM, Zando_ said:

Netherlands has a PCPP, use that for more accurate numbers. 

 

If you stretch to the very top of the budget and slightly over (1884 instead of 1800 flat) you can fit in an AM5 system and 4070 Ti:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/Pzx8gb

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€243.95 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (€179.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory  (€149.99 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (€184.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Video Card: Inno3D X3 GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  (€909.00 @ Azerty) 
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case  (€98.85 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (€118.85 @ Azerty) 
Total: €1884.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-07 21:47 CET+0100

 

Stepping down to an RX 6800 XT would put you at the 1600 euro mark, so mid-budget:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/dsfXrD

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€243.95 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (€179.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory  (€149.99 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (€184.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Video Card: PowerColor Red Dragon OC Radeon RX 6800 XT 16 GB Video Card  (€649.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case  (€98.85 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (€118.85 @ Azerty) 
Total: €1624.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-07 21:49 CET+0100

 

If you wanted to stick with the lower end ~1400, dropping to a 6700XT and 1TB drive will get you a bit below that: 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/NxdyPX

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€243.95 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (€179.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory  (€149.99 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (€100.99 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Video Card: MSI MECH 2X Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card  (€419.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case  (€98.85 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (€118.85 @ Azerty) 
Total: €1310.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-07 21:50 CET+0100

 

With that budget there's little reason to stick with a DDR4 platform. I wouldn't advise Intel 13th gen either, as the next gen of chips should require new motherboards, whereas AM5 should get at least one new gen of chips, ending up with more CPU upgrade headroom in future. Also, not sure whether Intel's P/E cores cause issues with Skyrim but that could be something to check into if you wanted to go that route. I do remember some older games had issues with them, but I never dove into the specifics. 

Not how that works. Power drawn = heat output. They run hot because they're very dense chips, not because they're actually pulling a lot of watts/outputting a lot of heat. A case with decent airflow and a good CPU cooler is enough for them. Basically just use actual intake fans and  a case that isn't a glass slab directly against the front fans and you're good. Which is most cases, as the ones that choke computers get endlessly ragged for doing so, and so larger brands tend to avoid making them if they care about their reputation. 

Just cause you CAN run chips really hot doesn't mean one should if they want to fully future proof. The idea if you want maximum longevity is to go for the ultimate efficiency on all fronts. Then just pay like the 50 dollars more for a full fan efficiency case. And avoid the whole transplanting parts and have an obsolete case. Cause I don't know about you but I don't wanna have to go through and take parts out if I don't have to. Looks aren't always worth it if its also running the risk of needing to replace thermal paste on a GPU as for most PC users thats a massive can of worms. As not every GPU has a teardown video. 

I went pure  airflow and high end parts running a aio 360 on a 5800x and it barely goes above 30.1C's with a EVGA RTX 3080  that under gaming loads is at a consistent 46C's to 58C's if its a super intense game. I'll probably go 20 years without the need to touch the thermal paste on either part. 

I warn about using a 

I love PC building and gaming. 
REMEMBER botttlenecks can happen at all points of a PC part. Make sure you are at equilibrium. For all parts unless you intend to upgrade at a later point. Also QA Tested AAA Games.

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31 minutes ago, NekoBubbles said:

Just cause you CAN run chips really hot doesn't mean one should if they want to fully future proof. The idea if you want maximum longevity is to go for the ultimate efficiency on all fronts. Then just pay like the 50 dollars more for a full fan efficiency case. And avoid the whole transplanting parts and have an obsolete case. Cause I don't know about you but I don't wanna have to go through and take parts out if I don't have to. Looks aren't always worth it if its also running the risk of needing to replace thermal paste on a GPU as for most PC users thats a massive can of worms. As not every GPU has a teardown video.

I never said what temperature you should run the chip at. Simply pointed out that you're not actually moving much wattage with these modern chips.  You don't need some super airflow case to move the heat out.

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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11 minutes ago, Zando_ said:

I never said what temperature you should run the chip at. Simply pointed out that you're not actually moving much wattage with these modern chips.  You don't need some super airflow case to move the heat out.

Yes they are more effcient but the 5000x series and 10K and up intel chips both are rated to run like 80 to 90 C's under load. Hence its to any consumer thinking long term to have a build one and done. Unless we're talking about someone like Linus or Jay or a particular PC enthusiast I'd rarely suggest building a PC that is gonna require a upgrade or swapping parts anytime soon unless their budget is super tight. Its just easier and simpler to avoid the thermal headache. Not to mention unless your PC is inexpensive it can be shocking how expensive parts can be to replace. 

I love PC building and gaming. 
REMEMBER botttlenecks can happen at all points of a PC part. Make sure you are at equilibrium. For all parts unless you intend to upgrade at a later point. Also QA Tested AAA Games.

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