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LG 27GP95R - Possibly fixable backlight bleed requiring rear panel removal

Rym
Go to solution Solved by GoodBytes,

I have the same monitor as you do, the 27GP950, yours, I believe it is the same one but yours doesn't have the LEDs on the back (and is a lower price point version).

I did open mine, for the fan (which yours probably doesn't have, as I suspect that it was put for the LEDs as the fan cools really nothing, beside metal inner casing which the LEDs are attached).

 

Anyways, I do not recommend opening the monitor up.

  • The monitor has no protection on the side of the glass. Normally you have a metal casing, and hence why you have a plastic bezel around the screen to hide it. The panel is so fragile that this is why you have instructions on how to place your hands to adjust the screen.
  • What you are bending with your finger is glass... glass, by nature, isn't normally flexible. It is flexible because it is ultra-thin, and it will crack if the pressure is ever so slightly too much.

In other words, you are touching a panel that is a more "consumer friendly" version of a video wall display (which has even thinner borders, which is the main reason it can only be purchased directly from an installer, who you agree is the only person who can install and even touch the display, as anything hit on the side or pressed on its edge/corner will crack the screen).

 

Also, you won't find anything. I checked. What you are experience is common for IPS display. Granted Nano-IPS has a bit more of it than some other sub-categories of IPS, but that is the cost, I guess, to get the IPS panel so fast.

 

Note that I have experience in opening things. I did my share of breaking things by not opening things properly. I can assure you, there is nothing you do to fix the problem. Some videos online to open similar look alike monitor do exist, however many use metal tools. DO NOT do like them. You WILL have permanent dents and scratches all over the back of the screen. Also, what helps them, is that while they do feature a frameless design on 3 out of 4 side of the monitor, the black border around is also larger than the yours and mine monitor (and the older version: 27GB950) which helps in the disassembly.

 

But if you insist on opening it.

 

** DO AT YOUR OWN RISK **

  • You'll need a large, flat, solid, very clean, and very SOFT, surface as you'll need to face the display down. If not, the screen may crack or at least scratch.
  • Place the screen on it, screen side on the above surface.
  • Have the ability to test monitor without really moving it beside tilting it a bit, to know if you have a signal (this is for the reassembly part... the "fun" part)
  • You'll need thin plastic picks made of a material that should be softer than the plastic of the monitor so that the picks get damaged and scratch, not the enclosure.
  • You will need to remove the stand, and VESA screws
  • A plastic pick can be inserted from the back side of the monitor where the glossy part goes all around. The pick won't fit properly beside the top.
  • Now apply pressure at an angle on the pick and slide it gently to unlock the clips. Apply too much pressure, and the plastic enclosure will get scratched, or worse, the screen will break. Work around the screen, you can use multiple picks to assist you in avoiding the enclosure to snap back closed.
  • Remove the ribbon cables and monitor module. Note that when you assemble back the monitor, the ribbon cable must be properly seated, a tiny offset to the connector will prevent the monitor from working.
  • Now you can access the plastic frame around the panel, which is screwed in, however, I never went deeper, so I don't know if glue or foam tape was used also.

For reference, I opened the monitor once. I won't open it again. Too risky considering the price of the monitor if it breaks.

Unit: LG 27GP95R

 

Issue: The unit is presenting backlight bleed on the lower left side, which is slightly tinted green and is visible in dark scenes and dark movies.

 

Behavior: The backlight bleed changes intensity and location depending on whether I put pressure on the panel or the back of the panel. Placing pressure on the back of the panel removes the backlight bleed nearly entirely.

 

Propossed solution: I hypothesize that this backlight bleeding is caused by improperly fit screws on the back of the panel, the screws are however hidden behind the panel rear, by tightening said screws in the location of the backlight bleed the issue would be solved in a satisfactory manner.

 

 

The problem: Removing the back rear of the panel is not exactly easy, and I do not want to damage the panel itself in the process. There is no visible direct way to either remove or afterwards reinstall the back panel seamlessly.

 

What I need help with: A video guide detailing how the back rear is removed properly, revealing the metal frame with the screws inside it that need to be tightened, and afterwards reinstalling the rear and the monitor on it's stand.

 

 

Anyone ever tried this with their LG Ultragear monitor? Was it easy to remove / reinstall the back of the monitor? Placing something between the space of the panel and the bezel (very thin space) also affects the backlight bleed positively or negatively depending on location and type of pressure, but I don't have anything that small that would fit there and not be noticeable to further test how much that helps.

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The only places I know of to find tutorial stuff like that are ifixit and YouTube.  It’s possible there will be a similar model that does have instructions though.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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I have the same monitor as you do, the 27GP950, yours, I believe it is the same one but yours doesn't have the LEDs on the back (and is a lower price point version).

I did open mine, for the fan (which yours probably doesn't have, as I suspect that it was put for the LEDs as the fan cools really nothing, beside metal inner casing which the LEDs are attached).

 

Anyways, I do not recommend opening the monitor up.

  • The monitor has no protection on the side of the glass. Normally you have a metal casing, and hence why you have a plastic bezel around the screen to hide it. The panel is so fragile that this is why you have instructions on how to place your hands to adjust the screen.
  • What you are bending with your finger is glass... glass, by nature, isn't normally flexible. It is flexible because it is ultra-thin, and it will crack if the pressure is ever so slightly too much.

In other words, you are touching a panel that is a more "consumer friendly" version of a video wall display (which has even thinner borders, which is the main reason it can only be purchased directly from an installer, who you agree is the only person who can install and even touch the display, as anything hit on the side or pressed on its edge/corner will crack the screen).

 

Also, you won't find anything. I checked. What you are experience is common for IPS display. Granted Nano-IPS has a bit more of it than some other sub-categories of IPS, but that is the cost, I guess, to get the IPS panel so fast.

 

Note that I have experience in opening things. I did my share of breaking things by not opening things properly. I can assure you, there is nothing you do to fix the problem. Some videos online to open similar look alike monitor do exist, however many use metal tools. DO NOT do like them. You WILL have permanent dents and scratches all over the back of the screen. Also, what helps them, is that while they do feature a frameless design on 3 out of 4 side of the monitor, the black border around is also larger than the yours and mine monitor (and the older version: 27GB950) which helps in the disassembly.

 

But if you insist on opening it.

 

** DO AT YOUR OWN RISK **

  • You'll need a large, flat, solid, very clean, and very SOFT, surface as you'll need to face the display down. If not, the screen may crack or at least scratch.
  • Place the screen on it, screen side on the above surface.
  • Have the ability to test monitor without really moving it beside tilting it a bit, to know if you have a signal (this is for the reassembly part... the "fun" part)
  • You'll need thin plastic picks made of a material that should be softer than the plastic of the monitor so that the picks get damaged and scratch, not the enclosure.
  • You will need to remove the stand, and VESA screws
  • A plastic pick can be inserted from the back side of the monitor where the glossy part goes all around. The pick won't fit properly beside the top.
  • Now apply pressure at an angle on the pick and slide it gently to unlock the clips. Apply too much pressure, and the plastic enclosure will get scratched, or worse, the screen will break. Work around the screen, you can use multiple picks to assist you in avoiding the enclosure to snap back closed.
  • Remove the ribbon cables and monitor module. Note that when you assemble back the monitor, the ribbon cable must be properly seated, a tiny offset to the connector will prevent the monitor from working.
  • Now you can access the plastic frame around the panel, which is screwed in, however, I never went deeper, so I don't know if glue or foam tape was used also.

For reference, I opened the monitor once. I won't open it again. Too risky considering the price of the monitor if it breaks.

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36 minutes ago, GoodBytes said:

I have the same monitor as you do, the 27GP950, yours, I believe it is the same one but without the LEDs on the back (and lower price point).

I did open mine, for the fan (which yours probably doesn't have, as I suspect that it was put for the LEDs as the fan cools really nothing, beside metal inner casing which the LEDs are attached).

 

Anyways, I do not recommend opening the monitor up.

  • The monitor has no protection on the side of the glass. Normally you have a metal casing, and hence why you have a plastic bezel around the screen to hide it. The panel is so fragile that this is why you have instructions on how to place your hands to adjust the screen.
  • What you are bending with your finger is glass... glass, by nature, isn't normally flexible. It is flexible because it is ultra-thin, and it will crack if the pressure is ever so slightly too much.

In other words, you are touching a panel that is a more "consumer friendly" version of a video wall display (which has even thinner borders, which is the main reason it can only be purchased directly from an installer, who you agree is the only person who can install and even touch the display, as anything hit on the side or pressed on its edge/corner will crack the screen).

 

Also, you won't find anything. I checked. What you are experience is common for IPS display. Granted Nano-IPS has a bit more of it than some other sub-categories of IPS, but that is the cost, I guess, to get the IPS panel so fast.

 

Note that I have experience in opening things. I did my share of breaking things by not opening things properly. I can assure you, there is nothing you do to fix the problem. Some videos online to open similar look alike monitor do exist, however many use metal tools. DO NOT do like them. You WILL have permanent dents and scratches all over the back of the screen. Also, what helps them, is that while they do feature a frameless design on 3 out of 4 side of the monitor, the black border around is also larger than the yours and mine monitor (and the older version: 27GB950) which helps in the disassembly.

 

But if you insist on opening it.

 

** DO AT YOUR OWN RISK **

  • You'll need a large, flat, solid, very clean, and very SOFT, surface as you'll need to face the display down. If not, the screen may crack or at least scratch.
  • Place the screen on it, screen side on the above surface.
  • Have the ability to test monitor without really moving it beside tilting it a bit, to know if you have a signal (this is for the reassembly part... the "fun" part)
  • You'll need thin plastic picks made of a material that should be softer than the plastic of the monitor so that the picks get damaged and scratch, not the enclosure.
  • You will need to remove the stand, and VESA screws
  • A plastic pick can be inserted from the back side of the monitor where the glossy part goes all around. The pick won't fit properly beside the top.
  • Now apply pressure at an angle on the pick and slide it gently to unlock the clips. Apply too much pressure, and the plastic enclosure will get scratched, or worse, the screen will break. Work around the screen, you can use multiple picks to assist you in avoiding the enclosure to snap back closed.
  • Remove the ribbon cables and monitor module. Note that when you assemble back the monitor, the ribbon cable must be properly seated, a tiny offset to the connector will prevent the monitor from working.
  • Now you can access the plastic frame around the panel, which is screwed in, however, I never went deeper, so I don't know if glue or foam tape was used also.

For reference, I opened the monitor once. I won't open it again. Too risky considering the price of the monitor if it breaks.

Thanks for the info!

 

Monitor is still in the return window, I ordered a different monitor which looking at google should have no BLB or at worst nowhere near the BLB of the LG and very good IPS glow generally, I'll wait for that one to arrive and if I like it I will return the LG one.

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