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A bit above budget.

Spilunx

Budget (including currency): 1500$ (Will extend by if needed)

Country: USA

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Homework, Streaming, Gaming

Other details I have no parts and I am planning to play at High FPS 1080p and >45 on 1440p

I am trying to build a PC for about 1500$ and I am exceeding my budget by a bit, I am willing to save some more money if needed but can anyone tell me what I should swap out, Just don't say anything with "Radeon" on it, (I'm cardist)
 

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1 minute ago, Spilunx said:

ust don't say anything with "Radeon" on it, (I'm cardist)

That would save you $100 right there to go for a 6700 XT instead, getting better gaming performance in everything but RT, and combined with dropping the Windows license for a grey market one  would get you to budget immediately. If for whatever reason you still think you need a Nvidia card, it's your money, but nothing about what you're doing sounds like you actually need it. 

 

Anyway, a there are a lot of areas you're overspending on that build (that CPU cooler is worth $20, not $100 for instance), so you can lose a lot of stuff and still keep the 3060 Ti. 

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/r49YFg

 

I'd still say go for a 6700 XT instead, but if you're dead set on a Nvidia card you can fit one in and still be under budget. 

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PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VHJDgb

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600KF 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($296.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  ($37.90 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($179.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Neo Forza FAYE 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory  ($69.99 @ Newegg Sellers) 
Storage: Crucial P3 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($59.99 @ B&H) 
Video Card: Zotac GAMING Twin Edge OC White Edition GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card  ($549.99 @ Newegg)  (You could get a 6800XT for the same prize that will deliver much more perfoance) 
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case  ($104.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Corsair RM750x (2021) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($119.99 @ Newegg) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit  ($99.99 @ Newegg) 
Total: $1519.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-05 03:19 EST-0500

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3 hours ago, Spilunx said:

Budget (including currency): 1500$ (Will extend by if needed)

Country: USA

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Homework, Streaming, Gaming

Other details I have no parts and I am planning to play at High FPS 1080p and >45 on 1440p

I am trying to build a PC for about 1500$ and I am exceeding my budget by a bit, I am willing to save some more money if needed but can anyone tell me what I should swap out, Just don't say anything with "Radeon" on it, (I'm cardist)
 

image.png

Alright, so taking into consideration that you don't want radeon cards I present you with this (almost the same parts list as yours with minor tweaks)

  1. CPU: i5 13600KF https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GVM48d/intel-core-i5-13600kf-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071513600kf
  2. CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assasin 120 SE https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hYxRsY/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3
  3. Motherboard: Giagbyte Z790 UD AC https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8ncG3C/gigabyte-z790-ud-ac-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-ud-ac
  4. RAM: Kingston Fury Beast RGB 32GB DDR5-5200 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2JYmP6/kingston-fury-beast-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-5200-cl36-memory-kf552c36bbeak2-32
  5. SSD: Crucial P2 1TB https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KMkgXL/crucial-p2-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p2ssd8
  6. GPU: Gigabyte Gaming OC Rev 2.0 3060 Ti https://pcpartpicker.com/product/b2YmP6/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-lhr-8-gb-gaming-oc-rev-20-video-card-gv-n306tgaming-oc-8gd-rev-20
  7. Case: Fractal Design Pop https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mpcG3C/fractal-design-pop-air-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-por1a-06
  8. PSU: Corsair RM650 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CRC48d/corsair-rm650-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020233-na
  9. OS: Windows 10 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-windows-10-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00140

Total: 1522.72 (from partpicker)

 

In general its a nice build. I chose the KF version because it saves you money. For the cooler I wanted to fgit in the Scythe Fuma 2 but it didn't have a price and the older version is good but not worth 100$. Motherboard, to ensure that your cpu is compatible I chose a Z790 one. The ram was the one thing I didn't want to change due to it being amazing but I cut some corners. Good thing is that you only save 24 dollars so you could still go with the kit that you chose for not a lot of money. Ssd stayed the same. I also tried to fit a better gpu but with that proccesor its gonna be hard, anyways the 3060 ti will be more than enough for 1080p and 1440p will also be pretty good. The case is totally up to you, I wouldn't go with a NZXT H510 because of the bad airflow, plus the one that I chose has 3 rgb fans that come with it, so no additional money spent on fans. Lastly, the psu and the os stayed the same.

 

P.S If I were you I would buy a windows license from Kinguin or similar for like 20$ and have a build that's even lower than your asking price and fit your ram into the budget plus be 50$ down (total will be 1445.82$)if you really want to maximize your budget you could go with the 3060 ti Ventus 3x which has 3 fans or even keep the same card and go for the K and KF i5.

 

Hope I helped!

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I edit my posts more often than not

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  • KF: good choice to save money. A Z mobo is not important unless you intend to tweak/ overclock. As long as you choose a good mobo, even a B will be fine. I choose a B for my son's K CPU and an H for mine (to get the extra ports for expansion later).
  • RGB: you can save a significant amount if you ignore RGB and get what fits your budget. Add RGB lighting strips, which are cheaper and can be accomplished with the right case or mobo. 
  • Fans: if you get a case without fans and want Corsair's, you can do a lot better with their ML120s, which use mag-lev bearings, but no RGB, and should save you at least $20.
  • Paste: unless the cooler doesn't have it, or it's known to be garbage, you don't need to buy this. 
  • OS: while it is true that you can buy Windows cheap on illegal Chinese sites like Kinguin, the risks range from eventual deactivation by MS,  to CC or ID theft,  to contracting malware. Keep in mind that the Chinese government can require any Chinese company to surrender data about any and all customers. This is not to say anything will happen, but these things can. Linus also did a video on this topic, as did I.
  • SSD: if you plan to play a lot of games in the same timeframe,  1 TB will seriously limit you.  Consider a secondary (now or later) or 2TB. I ran out of space in mere weeks., which also impacts virtual memory. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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1 hour ago, RevGAM said:

KF: good choice to save money. A Z mobo is not important unless you intend to tweak/ overclock. As long as you choose a good mobo, even a B will be fine. I choose a B for my son's K CPU and an H for mine (to get the extra ports for expansion later).

RGB: you can save a significant amount of you ignore RGB and get what fits your budget. Add RGB lighting strips, which are cheaper and can be accomplished with the right car or mobo. 

Fans: if you get a case without fans and want Corsair's, you can do a lot better with their ML120s, which use mag-lev bearings,  but no RGB, and should save you at least $20.

Paste: unless the cooler doesn't have it, or it's known to be garbage, you don't need to buy this. 

OS: while it is true that you can buy Windows cheap in illegal  Chinese sites like Kinguin,  the risks range from eventual deactivation by MS,  to CC or ID theft,  to contracting malware. Keep in mind that the Chinese government can require any Chinese company to surrender data about any and All customers. This is not to say anything will happen, but they can. Linus also did a video on this topic, as did I.

Ssd: if you plan to play a lot of games in the same timestamp,  1 TB will seriously limit you.  Consider a secondary (now or later) or 2TB. I ran out of space in mere weeks., which also impacts virtual memory. 

I wanted to mention the thing about the mobo but I wasn't sure what they where called for the new gen. I have a H670 Tuf Wi-Fi which is fine. I can't nor would I overclock anyways! The thing about the os is something that I should elaborated more. I had just woken up and wasn't thinking straight. What I should have said is that you can download the media creation tool from microsoft, install windows without a license and in the future you can just activate them. That way its legal and you can upgrade whenever you want and have the money!

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