Jump to content

New 4080 not working. Unsure what the problem is :(

Lazzios
 Share

Go to solution Solved by Alinz,

Just brainstorming here, try fliping the single/multi rail switch on your psu (I don't think it will help, but I am curious at this point)

Hey guys, built a new rig a while back for the RTX3090 and after about a month the 3090 died. Not really sure what happened to it. 

 

Since then I've been surviving on a 1660 for about 18months and have had no problems. 

 

Plugged in  the new 4080 today, monitor can't detect a signal, and there is this red light on the graphics card. No Idea what it means. 

 

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

image.thumb.jpeg.6ce0953bfbb5a34d5c091fce34fbd730.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it's power cable fully clipped in, and firmly inserted?

 

What PSU do you have? And what motherboard model?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, whispous said:

Is it's power cable fully clipped in, and firmly inserted?

 

What PSU do you have? And what motherboard model?

From what I can see it appears to be fully clipped in. It was easy with the adaptopr, wasn't too fiddly.
The PSU is Corsair HX850 850W High Performance Power Supply, 80 PLUS Platinum, 135mm Fan, Fully Modular
And the motheroard: Gigabyte Z490 AORUS PRO AX ATX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Jahee2 said:

While you're at it, you might also want to clean out that radiator. It's a dusty boi.

It certainly wouldn't hurt, you aren't wrong haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would recommend, while waiting to see if someone here knows, that you start your support request with Zotac. They may be able to answer faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What type of cable are you running from your GPU to your monitor?

 

It should be the easiest thing to diagnose right now, maybe the 40 series is iffy with the cables you plug in.

 

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, Alinz said:

What type of cable are you running from your GPU to your monitor?

 

It should be the easiest thing to diagnose right now, maybe the 40 series is iffy with the cables you plug in.

 

Tried both Display Port and HDMI. Neither get a signal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What have you done before installing the new card?

 

Did you DDU the driver of that 1660? I find it strange that 2 GPU's didn't or stopped working in your build, especially with such a good PSU.

Can you list your full specs? 

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

red light means;

 

no power

bad power

bad voltage

no calbe detected

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Alinz said:

What have you done before installing the new card?

 

Did you DDU the driver of that 1660? I find it strange that 2 GPU's didn't or stopped working in your build, especially with such a good PSU.

Can you list your full specs? 

PSU:  Corsair HX850 850W High Performance Power Supply, 80 PLUS Platinum, 135mm Fan, Fully Modular
Motheroard: Gigabyte Z490 AORUS PRO AX ATX

Storage: 2x Samsung 2TB SSD, 970 EVO Plus, M.2 2280 NVMe PCIe Gen3

CPU: Intel Core i9 10900KF 3.7GHz Commet Lake 10 Core 20 Thread LGA1200
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinum CPU Cooler,

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 64GB (2x32GB), PC4-25600 (3200MHz) DDR4
First GPU was eVGA GeForce RTX3090 FTW3 Ultra 24GB (This one worked fine for about a month, and then stopped working after I played GTAV on the PC for the firs time. Screen went black after about 20 min. Rebooted PC, died after anohter 20min and then never worked again)

Have been using a MSI GTX 1660 for the last 18months with zero problems

New Graphics Card is a Zotac 4080 16GB Trinity



I did not DDU (Display Driver Uninstall?) I jsut turn off the PC, switched out the card, adn tried both display ort and HDMI, got no signal. I feel like that its something within the PC though. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try the card in the second slot, assuming there is a second slot, just to see if it is a PCIe issue with the main slot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, DigitalGoat said:

Try the card in the second slot, assuming there is a second slot, just to see if it is a PCIe issue with the main slot.

I remember trying that with the 3090 and it not fixing anything. So I'm just a little hesitant switching PCIe slots incase reapeated attempts at turning it on damages the card if it is a power issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just brainstorming here, try fliping the single/multi rail switch on your psu (I don't think it will help, but I am curious at this point)

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Alinz said:

Just brainstorming here, try fliping the single/multi rail switch on your psu (I don't think it will help, but I am currious at this point)

I was literally just taking a look at that (pulled the PSU out to check th ecables were secure which they are)

The red shows where I have the 3 8-pins plugged in and it is set to "Multiple"
I will try Single adn see what happens. 
image.thumb.png.1d198ef6529fb2d5bbe75e56977ee3c6.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I switched to single. And there is a display signla now! Resolution was messed up as normal with a new card, installed drivers which fixed it now waiting for the Reboot. If that switch was the issue, I vaguely remember fretting about that when I first installed it and I was sure I had it in the "correct" position for whatever reason. I'm going to try to put my 3090 back in after this and see if that works.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats good to hear, and good for me to know.

 

Please, whatever you do. DDU (display driver uninstal) your system before you decide which card you are going to end up using so you dont get wierd driver related issues.

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, Alinz said:

Thats good to hear, and good for me to know.

 

Please, whatever you do. DDU (display driver uninstal) your system before you decide which card you are going to end up using so you dont get wierd driver related issues.

Thank you so much for the assisstance. Is there a place you reccomend downloading DDU from?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

No worries, glad it worked!

 

Here you go Guru3d

Check this video from JayzTwoCents for instructions on how to use it.

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cool, thanks dude! Sadly the 3090 still seems cooked (4 redlights no signal). I'm not sure if that makes me happy that i did wast 2k on a new card or sad i coukd fix it haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Lazzios said:

Cool, thanks dude! Sadly the 3090 still seems cooked (4 redlights no signal). I'm not sure if that makes me happy that i did wast 2k on a new card or sad i coukd fix it haha.

Does that card have a dual bios? Try switching it!

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So I tried to use the other BIOS on the 3090. Even used it as the 1st card after wiping the drivers, I can here windows boot up, but just get nothing on the display. Those RED lights on the card come on the moment the power is switched on. Most likely a cooked card. Gonna just install the 4080, and count my blessings it didn't get broke by my PC.

 

Thanks again for all the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

How old is that 3090 btw, maybe you could still RMA it.

 

My Rig: CPU : 10700K | RAM : Trident Z Neo 3600Mhz c16 32G (4x8) | CPU cooler : NHD15 | GPU : ASROCK RX 6900 XT Formula OC | PSU : Corsair RM850 (black label) | CASE : Corsair 5000D Airflow | Storage : Samsung 970 evo 1TB, WD Black 1TB, Samsung evo 850 Sata SSD | Casefans : Lian Li Unifan SL120 7X|

MOUSE : G Pro Wireless X superlight | Keyboard : Ducky one 2 RGB full Cherry MX Red  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×