Jump to content

power supply will not turn on in morning

I have Thermaltake tough power 850w and Corsair VS450 power supply. they both work fine for the day. but when I turn them on in the morning they simply just don't start computer. what can be causing this?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a power issue in the home, not the PSU.

 

For clarity, you are trying just to turn the PC on?  You don't hit the switch on the PSU itself, right?

 

TBD - AMD Ryzen 7 7700x - MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio - Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX - G. Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 32GB - Samsung 980 1TB x3 - Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 - EK-AIO 360 Basic - Lian Li Lancool II Mesh C - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Psu plug is off from wall socket when I shut down computer in night. I am not touching psu back side on off button. 

 

I have 2 more computers is same room but they don't have this problem. Then how can this be power issue in home?  

 

Also not sure of how to troubleshoot this further. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, bkrenderman said:

Psu plug is off from wall socket when I shut down computer in night. I am not touching psu back side on off button. 

 

I have 2 more computers is same room but they don't have this problem. Then how can this be power issue in home?  

 

Also not sure of how to troubleshoot this further. 

 

 

Do the PC's work in other rooms in the morning?

 

Look, if a PSU works at 6pm but not at 6am... that's a house issue, parental controls, or something.  PSU's don't have these issues by themselves.

 

Off from the wall socket means what?  You unplug the PSU cord out of the outlet?  Or you flip a light swtich that controls that outlet?

 

Most people just turn Power off in Windows and the PC shuts down, and we go to bed.  Is that not what you do?

 

TBD - AMD Ryzen 7 7700x - MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio - Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX - G. Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 32GB - Samsung 980 1TB x3 - Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 - EK-AIO 360 Basic - Lian Li Lancool II Mesh C - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, Dedayog said:

Do the PC's work in other rooms in the morning?

 

Look, if a PSU works at 6pm but not at 6am... that's a house issue, parental controls, or something.  PSU's don't have these issues by themselves.

 

Off from the wall socket means what?  You unplug the PSU cord out of the outlet?  Or you flip a light swtich that controls that outlet?

 

Most people just turn Power off in Windows and the PC shuts down, and we go to bed.  Is that not what you do?

 

Yes other 2 PC's work in the morning without any issue. 

 

I have not put any parental control in software or on any smart plug etc. It's very simple setup.

 

I do switch off pc AC wall power switch in the night after shutdown. As this my small workplace with 4 computers and i leave this place for night.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, bkrenderman said:

Yes other 2 PC's work in the morning without any issue. 

 

I have not put any parental control in software or on any smart plug etc. It's very simple setup.

 

I do switch off pc AC wall power switch in the night after shutdown. As this my small workplace with 4 computers and i leave this place for night.

 

I mean take this machine into another room in the morning and see if it works in there.  

TBD - AMD Ryzen 7 7700x - MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio - Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX - G. Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 32GB - Samsung 980 1TB x3 - Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 - EK-AIO 360 Basic - Lian Li Lancool II Mesh C - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dedayog said:

I mean take this machine into another room in the morning and see if it works in there..... 

And have a cup of coffee waiting for it too.
PSU's themselves have no way of knowing what time it is for only working at certain times, they either work or they don't.

BTW I noted you listed two different PSU's - Did you try both in the same machine?
I have to assume by the info you gave that's the case here.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

And have a cup of coffee waiting for it too.
PSU's themselves have no way of knowing what time it is for only working at certain times, they either work or they don't.

BTW I noted you listed two different PSU's - Did you try both in the same machine?
I have to assume by the info you gave that's the case here.

Yes I tried both PSUs in same machine and different machines too.  and tried to plug them in machines that already turn on in morning and they do not work there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK - When you say they don't work there, is it according to the behaviour of not starting in the morning as well or they just don't work at all in those other machines?
I have something in mind here to suggest but need a reply to this first.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

OK - When you say they don't work there, is it according to the behaviour of not starting in the morning as well or they just don't work at all in those other machines?
I have something in mind here to suggest but need a reply to this first.

Well not starting in morning may not better to put my condition here. actually it happens when you give big gap between start like 12 hours or more (exactly I don't know what the least gap is needed for it to behave like that) so lets say if I turn them on next day at evening (18-20 hours gap) then they still don't start. (my Thermaltake PSU makes a click sound fan spins and stops) I even tried to to turn it on by putting it in other system when it refuse to start. but it doesn't start. 

 

please let me know if you have any solutions to this that I can try. I doubted on Thermaltake but its very solid power supply and only 1 year old with 10 years warrenty and this also happen with the corasir one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe with those you have a cap or two that's weak or going bad.
It needs the cap to "Boost" power when you press the power button because of the inrush of current which will for an instant make voltage drop - Caps compensate for this drop and provide the "Push" the get all the components working.

I'll give an example - My PS3 has a cap that's weak in it and takes 2 tries to get it powered on. First try results in the Red LED of death but quickly tapping the power button twice resets it and THEN it starts.

Here's a suggestion - Try supplying power to the system for about 5 minutes before pressing the power button and see if it boots.
Next, if it fails to boot, then do as I've done with my PS3 and see how many times it takes before it starts.

You can also force the PSU to start with a jumper wire if you know how.
Here's a pinout of a 20/24 pin ATX plug:

connector_atx_pinout.GIF.acebf373cb5181cb54fa19c0fe5e635d.GIF

Look at the green dot/wire (Labeled PS _ON#) and how it's labeled - it goes directly to ground (NOT power) to trigger the unit to turn on. Removing it from ground will make the PSU switch off, meaning the on/off function of it is controlled by sensing ground, which the board itself makes and breaks this ground connection for that purpose.

If looking at it, via the wires themselves it's the only solid green wire the 20/24 pin ATX plug has.

So, you just take a jumper wire and coming in from the top of the plug (Since the plug has to be in the board for it to work) just stick the end of the jumper wire in where the solid green wire is to make a connnection.

Then just ground your jumper wire to a suitable ground - The PSU should turn on making the system itself power on.
To turn off the system, simply remove the jumper wire from ground - The PSU switches off.

That's how you remotely control a PSU for on and off functions or to force a startup for testing one.

BTW - Never let this wire make contact to power in any way - You and the PSU too won't like it.

You can try it and maybe figure out something.


 

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

I believe with those you have a cap or two that's weak or going bad.
It needs the cap to "Boost" power when you press the power button because of the inrush of current which will for an instant make voltage drop - Caps compensate for this drop and provide the "Push" the get all the components working.

I'll give an example - My PS3 has a cap that's weak in it and takes 2 tries to get it powered on. First try results in the Red LED of death but quickly tapping the power button twice resets it and THEN it starts.

Here's a suggestion - Try supplying power to the system for about 5 minutes before pressing the power button and see if it boots.
Next, if it fails to boot, then do as I've done with my PS3 and see how many times it takes before it starts.

You can also force the PSU to start with a jumper wire if you know how.
Here's a pinout of a 20/24 pin ATX plug:

connector_atx_pinout.GIF.acebf373cb5181cb54fa19c0fe5e635d.GIF

Look at the green dot/wire (Labeled PS _ON#) and how it's labeled - it goes directly to ground (NOT power) to trigger the unit to turn on. Removing it from ground will make the PSU switch off, meaning the on/off function of it is controlled by sensing ground, which the board itself makes and breaks this ground connection for that purpose.

If looking at it, via the wires themselves it's the only solid green wire the 20/24 pin ATX plug has.

So, you just take a jumper wire and coming in from the top of the plug (Since the plug has to be in the board for it to work) just stick the end of the jumper wire in where the solid green wire is to make a connnection.

Then just ground your jumper wire to a suitable ground - The PSU should turn on making the system itself power on.
To turn off the system, simply remove the jumper wire from ground - The PSU switches off.

That's how you remotely control a PSU for on and off functions or to force a startup for testing one.

BTW - Never let this wire make contact to power in any way - You and the PSU too won't like it.

You can try it and maybe figure out something.


 

 

thank you for explaining the Cap problem. I also think that may be the case.

So here is what I did today in morning-

VS450W - 

  1. I switched on main power switch
  2. then I pressed the computer switch. but nothing happened. computer not started.
  3. so as you said I pulled all connection from mother board and also pulled the power supply out of case.
  4. I shorted the Pin-4 and 5 (green and black) on the psu and the fan started spinning. which indicates it works. now I again connected all connectors of it to motherboard just to see if it works but no it didn't worked when connected to motherboard.

Thermaltake Tough power GF1 850w - 

I did same with it switched on main power switch then switched on the computer button but nothing happened (I only heard clicking sound once and that's it). 

I again disconnected the power supply from motherboard and tried turning it on by shorting pin green and black. but it still didn't start. only clicking sound. 

by the way this testing is done in other room and I also checked the polarity and earthing on my mains just to make sure there is no electrical wiring issue. I will do more testing tomorrow. one interesting thing I observed when the GF1 didn't start I put small PSU tester that I bought on amazon and only got the +5VSB light turned ON all other lights were off. but when I switch off power supply from back while the tester connected and turned back on it started. see attached. but this is not permanent solution. 

after start.jpg

not starting.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually......🥴
I described it for testing without removing it from the board or case but doesn't matter, you got the basic idea and it did show a few things.
BTW I do suggest using a ground that's not part of the PSU or system as in an externally sourced ground.... Just in case.


The behaviour of the 850W you described seems to indicate a weak cap or perhaps the startup relay inside getting dodgy, hard to say at this point.

From the results of the 450W's testing I'm also worried if the 850W PSU's problem didn't affect the board too - Which is why you really need to repeat this test with it all connected to the system, ready to power it on and see if it decides to start.

Keep at it, you'll figure out what to do with some additional testing.


 

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

Actually......🥴
I described it for testing without removing it from the board or case but doesn't matter, you got the basic idea and it did show a few things.
BTW I do suggest using a ground that's not part of the PSU or system as in an externally sourced ground.... Just in case.


The behaviour of the 850W you described seems to indicate a weak cap or perhaps the startup relay inside getting dodgy, hard to say at this point.

From the results of the 450W's testing I'm also worried if the 850W PSU's problem didn't affect the board too - Which is why you really need to repeat this test with it all connected to the system, ready to power it on and see if it decides to start.

Keep at it, you'll figure out what to do with some additional testing.


 

So if he'd just leave the wall switch ON, this wouldn't be an issue, is that what you're saying?  

 

Logically if we replicate the settings across the board for the evening workings, then it should work in the morning too.  

TBD - AMD Ryzen 7 7700x - MSI 6900xt Gaming X Trio - Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX - G. Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 32GB - Samsung 980 1TB x3 - Super Flower Leadex V Platinum Pro 850 - EK-AIO 360 Basic - Lian Li Lancool II Mesh C - AOC AGON 35" 3440x1440 100Hz - Mackie CR5BT - Corsair Virtuoso SE - Logitech G910, G502 - Cooler Master Universal Graphics Card Holder

 

Emma : i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - Gigabyte AORUS 1080Ti - Gigabyte AORUS Z370 Gaming 5 - G. Skill Ripjaws V 32GB 3200Mhz - 750 EVO 512GB + 2x 860 EVO 1TB (RAID 0) - EVGA SuperNova 650 P2 - Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate 360mm - Fractal Design Define R6 - TP-Link AC1900

 

Plex : Ryzen 5 1600 - Gigabyte B450M-DS3H - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2400Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - 840 EVO 256GB + Toshiba P300 3TB - TP-Link AC1900 PCIe Wifi - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 500 - Antec Nine Hundred - Samsung 27" + Dell 24" 

 

Raven:  Intel i3 10100F - ASRock H410M-HDV - G. Skill Ripjaws V 16GB 2666Mhz - MSI 1050Ti 4GB - Inland 256GB SSD + Toshiba 2TB HDD - TP-Link AC600 USB Wifi - Gigabyte GP-P450B PSU -  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L -  Spectre 24" 

 

Other Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

Lenovo 720S Touch 15.6" - i7 7700HQ, 16GB RAM, 512GB NVMe SSD, 1050Ti, 4K touchscreen

MSI GF62 - i7 7700HQ, 16GB 2400 MHz RAM, 256GB NVMe SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD, 1050Ti

- Ubiquiti Amplifi HD mesh wifi

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Dedayog said:

So if he'd just leave the wall switch ON, this wouldn't be an issue, is that what you're saying?  

Yes and no - But leaving power to it may solve it.
However if a cap is slowly dying it can eventually come to a point even that won't do any good.

4 hours ago, Dedayog said:

 

Logically if we replicate the settings across the board for the evening workings, then it should work in the morning too.  

Exactly, if it's going to work it will regardless of the time on the clock, PSU's have no way of knowing what time it is.
I've never heard of anyone having to reset the clock for a PSU - Have you?

I doubt it.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Beerzerker said:

Yes and no - But leaving power to it may solve it.
However if a cap is slowly dying it can eventually come to a point even that won't do any good.

Exactly, if it's going to work it will regardless of the time on the clock, PSU's have no way of knowing what time it is.
I've never heard of anyone having to reset the clock for a PSU - Have you?

I doubt it.

So last night I left wall power ON to the system and also to the GF1 PSU. now today morning when I tried they both turned ON in single attempt without any issue.

it clearly looks like CAP problem then. what will you suggest can I go for RMA for both the PSU's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×