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Yeah, so THIS is getting OLD... (Random blank black screen on boot)

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Posted (edited)

I have an interesting dilemma.

 

My 5900X build has been randomly showing no video on boot, which led me to believe it was freezing in boot. This may also be related to its inability to wake from sleep in Windows.

 

I've reseated the GPU countless times, rerouted power cables that could potentially have compromised the slot latch, even added a support wire to reduce lateral stress on the card and socket just two or three days ago.

 

Today, it gave me a blank screen again. Removing and re-inserting the cable at the card's HDMI port fixed it without rebooting. So it would seem the issue is in the cable, or the port. But last time I did an RMA (MSI B450M Bazooka), it took over a month. Due to health issues, my PC is my main source of entertainment, if not my life, and I can't be without a machine for that long. ADDED: I do have a Lenovo workstation I'm upgrading to an i7-2600, but I doubt I'll be able to do much gaming on it.

 

So if I have to remove this damned GPU for an RMA, I may just buy another (different) card to keep the machine running and sell this GPU when I get it back. I may be transferring this build to another case soon anyway.

 

EDIT: Also, I did this build on the expectation of doing gameplay videos / streaming for YouTube / Twitch. However, I was recently diagnosed with autism, which has been exacerbated by COVID fog, so I frequently lose track of what I'm doing in the moment, hence I doubt the YouTube / Twitch thing is going to happen, as you really have to focus when editing video. I've also found that the GTX1650S-4GB-OC in my 1700 rig wasn't that bad, as the 3060ti only seems faster, not so much better. So I've considered perhaps downgrading to one of the mid-to-high-tier RX5xxx or RX6xxx series. Is it true that these cards offer some added benefits with AMD CPUs?

 

Current GPU: ASUS KO-RTX3060ti-8GB-OC.

Budget: Paid $850 for current GPU, which is now $530. So while I don't want to cheap out, I'd say $500 or less, as I can get the same card I have for $500-ish now.

 

That said, prices have come down. What would you recommend?

Edited by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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If you need the PC to be operational, and you also need to RMA your current GPU, then I suppose that's the best option you have.

 

What GPU do you have now, and do you have a budget in mind?

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB NVME, 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0GHz - 5.0GHz - 4.9GHz - 4.8GHz, Cache @ 4.6GHz, relidded with LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 with LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5600G @ 4640MHz
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 4400MHz 17-17-17-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC @ 1800MHz & .812V
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: Silicon Power A80 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF 600 Gold
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper with Noctua A12x15 PWM Chromax Black
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.2.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 48GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Antec Three Hundred
  • Storage: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME, Blu-Ray Drive
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S with 2X Fractal Venturi HP-12
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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1 minute ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

If you need the PC to be operational, and you also need to RMA your current GPU, then I suppose that's the best option you have.

 

What GPU do you have now, and do you have a budget in mind?

Derp. I suppose a budget would have been a good mention, there. Edited OP accordingly.

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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Have fun tryinng to troubleshoot with no postcode cause that will be a PITA

 

 

Stress rams with tm5 or any other ram stress test like hci memtest, p95 large ffts

 

Overclock the balls off your gpu and see when it starts artifacting, if its artifacting near stock (<100mhz up) then that may be a concern, stress gpu with some random benchmark like superposition or furmark

 

 

If that doesnt work

I suggest buying one of those pcie debug cards off ebay for ~25$ or making one yourself out of a pcie to mini pcie adapter (usually used for wifi cards) and a mini pcie debug card normally meant for laptops, that will indicate what its freezing on. If you dont know the codes then just intentionally sabotage the bios settings to yeild ram errors, cpu errors, etc. (Setting too low volts, setting wrong settings, etc.) And see if any of those may match the freeze code you are getting

 

Dont just go willy nilly swap gpu and swap sht before testing stuff first

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2 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Have fun tryinng to troubleshoot with no postcode cause that will be a PITA

IKR?

2 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Stress rams with tm5 or any other ram stress test like hci memtest, p95 large ffts

I'll try that, but I really haven't had any issues that indicate the RAM.

3 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Overclock the balls off your gpu and see when it starts artifacting, if its artifacting near stock (<100mhz up) then that may be a concern, stress gpu with some random benchmark like superposition or furmark

It's interesting you mention that, because I tried a bit more than the standard Asus GPU Tweak II OC settings, and the screen goes blank and machine crashes. So with your mention of this, it may well be the GPU and not the cable. But then, I tried swapping the GPU to another slot the other day and Windows froze while loading. So for all I know, this is a motherboard issue that just happens to to screw with the GPU.

5 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

I suggest buying one of those pcie debug cards off ebay for ~25$ or making one yourself out of a pcie to mini pcie adapter (usually used for wifi cards) and a mini pcie debug card normally meant for laptops, that will indicate what its freezing on. If you dont know the codes then just intentionally sabotage the bios settings to yeild ram errors, cpu errors, etc. (Setting too low volts, setting wrong settings, etc.) And see if any of those may match the freeze code you are getting

One thought about that. One, could this issue be local to the particular x16 slot used by the GPU?

8 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Dont just go willy nilly swap gpu and swap sht before testing stuff first

Oh, I know. That's why this has been so frustrating. I've had to wait days or weeks after a potential 'fix' to see if the problem goes away. Now I know it's not lateral stress, and it doesn't appear to be anything causing the card to unseat. It physically can't move with a support wire and the expansion slot cover screws torqued down. The only logical answers now are 1) Bad cable, 2) Flaky GPU, 3) Flaky motherboard / slot.

 

I should think a bad cable would have been much more problematic and would have gotten worse and more frequent by now. And the machine runs fine other than this, 12 hours or more per day since it was built.

 

I did have one other thought here, and this would probably count as a noob mistake. The Corsair 4000X case I have is equipped with a separate front panel cable for the 3.2 USB it has. However, the Asus B550-PLUS I have has no 3.2 header, so I got a USB 3.0 header splitter cable, a 3.2 to 3.0 header adapter, and tied it all together with a 90-degree adapter at the header port.

 

The 90-degree broke and pulled free of the header socket almost immediately. Apparently the cable's contours put it in a bind. This could have introduced a possible stress failure at the socket, which I think should be a more frequent issue. Additionally, I wonder if running separate 3.2 / 3.0 FP I/O through the same header with a splitter might be confusing the board / CPU on boot? Could it really be that simple? I don't really use the FP I/O anyway, I just figured if it was there, it should work. Could I have caused my own problem trying to solve another?

 

That said, I still think this issue is in the cable or the GPU / HDMI port.

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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Do you have another GPU you can get your hands on even temporarily to test this theory? 

ITX & Ultrawide Enthusiast

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25 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Do you have another GPU you can get your hands on even temporarily to test this theory? 

Yes and no. I have a GTX1650 Super in my 1700, but that machine's motherboard has been so temperamental since being separated from its original GT1030 I honestly don't even want to try it. The 1700 is being gifted to a friend for a much-needed upgrade from his i3-2100, and I don't really want to risk disabling the machine by messing with it.

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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There are a few cards on CL, but I run the risk of buying someone else's problems, and some people think their older GPU is worth $500 because better ones have been $1200-$2000 for so long. I see a GTX1660 and an RX580 for $200. But for that, I could get a brand-new low-profile GTX1650, which after confirming or refuting my theory, could be put in the media NAS I'm working on (currently waiting for upgraded cooler and cable adapters). So if I'll have to buy another one to confirm the theory and run the 5900X in the meantime, maybe that's the way to go with this?

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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