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Smoke came out the PSU

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Hello.

 

Yesterday i tried to set up my old computer to do some backup and i couldn't find the power cable for its PSU (AeroCool Strike X 800w) so i unplugged my main PC and used the power cable of its PSU (RMi 850w) however, my old PC refused to boot. It's been laying around for 2+ years so i didn't pay much mind to it and thought of just snatching the hdd and putting on my main at a later time and started plugging my main PC back.

 

That's when things went bad. My main PC refused to boot, which i found extremely odd after working perfectly for years. Looked back and i had forgot to turn on the PSU in the back, fixed that, tried again, same thing. No boot. Tried messing with the cable to see if it was loose and perhaps i didn't plugged it in properly. Started hearing a spark noise. At one point, some lights on the mobo's IO Shield flashed like 2 or 3 times (ig it kept trying to turn on even tho i only pressed to do so once) and after that, smoke came out the back. More precisely, not the psu itself but only the power plug in the back. Turned the switch off immediately and unplugged it.

 

Later on i was able to find the power cable of my old PC's psu and it booted up perfectly. I am on it right now.


I looked inside the power cable with a flash light and 2 of the prong entrances are fine and 3rd one is burnt. The cable definitely died. Not sure of the PSU. I thought of trying to turn my main PC on using the old PSU cable i found since its just a 50w diff and even on full load my main PC won't draw 700w however i was advised against solely cuz of the smoke from earlier i too thought too risky and left it be.

 

Now, what i'd like to know:

 

1 - What are the chances something besides the PSU itself (perhaps it died too idk) and the power cable also died? meaning my GPU, CPU, Storage, etc? Maybe worth knowing the PSU is connected to an online UPS with its own protections against surges, shorts and the likes.

 

2 - What could've caused this? What ive been told is likely just the cable died. Assuming the worse, i've ordered a replacement PSU, an HX 850w. My own thoughts on this is: that power cable specifically been plugged and on the same position without moving for 2 years, perhaps more. And the somewhat slight bending i did (near the "head") to plug it to my old PC caused damage to the insides of the cable enough so it couldn't stably transfer power and it died trying to.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

PS: Full specs on signature.

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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i wouldn't assume anything is damaged, sounds more to me like the contacts weren't tight, and started sparking. whether that be from a bent contact in the plug, or the plug just not being tight. i would just try a different cable, instead of going straight for a new psu. the cable from your old psu should be fine, those are just the input cable, they are universal for the most part, afaik.

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Posted (edited)

it could be different ends on the cable but kind of doubt that? if it was just the cable between PSU and wall power? (not sure about that standard).

but if you did mess with other cables, that could be a cause of concern.

If smoke or smell comes from the PSU and maybe hearing a noise, then you have likely fried something and it can be the PSU.

If that has happened, find what smokes or where the most of the damage went if possible, replace the needed cables and equipment.

 

Sparking can happen when plugging anything from the wall to electrical devices, if its really bad there might be something going on.

Would hope that the PSU take all the damage instead of the rest of the system.

Edited by Quackers101
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Sounds like the C13 end on that power cable wasn't making good contact with the PSU's C14, or it was poorly made and the hot leg started arcing to neutral or ground.

 

Throw it out and get another cable if you need one.

 

There's probably nothing wrong with your computer, since the fault was outside even the high voltage side of the PSU. (Sometimes on really old electronics, old power filtering capacitors release a lot of nasty smoke that smells like rotting fish. Ask me how I know.)

Dell owns my soul.

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23 hours ago, bmx6454 said:

i wouldn't assume anything is damaged, sounds more to me like the contacts weren't tight, and started sparking. whether that be from a bent contact in the plug, or the plug just not being tight. i would just try a different cable, instead of going straight for a new psu. the cable from your old psu should be fine, those are just the input cable, they are universal for the most part, afaik.

i want to but honestly scared cuz of the smoke. Altho it does seem like it was just the cable. Cuz i thought about it some more and realized something: I said in the OP that when i tried plugging my old pc in, it refused to boot up. That was before the smoke and spark noise. Right there and then was just the cable, period. Cuz later in the day i found the old psu cable and my old pc booted up just fine. Plus the RMi is a quality psu and doesn't make sense for it to die or be damaged simply cuz its power cable was unplugged.

 

23 hours ago, Needfuldoer said:

Sounds like the C13 end on that power cable wasn't making good contact with the PSU's C14, or it was poorly made and the hot leg started arcing to neutral or ground.

 

Throw it out and get another cable if you need one.

 

There's probably nothing wrong with your computer, since the fault was outside even the high voltage side of the PSU. (Sometimes on really old electronics, old power filtering capacitors release a lot of nasty smoke that smells like rotting fish. Ask me how I know.)

Yeah it really does seem it was just the cable. I'll know for sure in a week or so. But i panicked since its the first time ever i deal with smoke issue and after hearing many stories i instantly assumed the worst. Well the psu i bought is already on its way so might as well change it up. If the RMi is still good i can just change my old pc's psu since the AeroCool it has is of way lower quality in comparison.

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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They will usually shut down to prevent damage if you have a bad connect, Im not saying it cant happen but I think BMX prolly hit the nail on the head.

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the HX arrived, but its power cord isn't the usual 3 prong style im used to, is it okay to put it through an adapter? cuz otherwise it doesn't fit on my UPS

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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1 hour ago, ReggieGRS said:

the HX arrived, but its power cord isn't the usual 3 prong style im used to, is it okay to put it through an adapter? cuz otherwise it doesn't fit on my UPS

Why not use the old cord that worked?

We have cords (cables) 2 or 3 decades old or older that are perfectly good and are used.

And did you check the original power supply? If smoke from the mains input socket due to a bad cord connection, it is probably OK. I certainly would have tried it, possibly after wiping any soot out of it first.

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4 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

Why not use the old cord that worked?

We have cords (cables) 2 or 3 decades old or older that are perfectly good and are used.

And did you check the original power supply? If smoke from the mains input socket due to a bad cord connection, it is probably OK. I certainly would have tried it, possibly after wiping any soot out of it first.

 

Aren't they supposed to be rated to withstand drawing X amount of power? I have no idea whats the rating on that old cable. But i assume its fine for my old pc that is weak but not my main one with a 9900K and 2080Ti - Plus i already spent the money and its here might as well use the thing, right? I just don't know if i should put it on an adapter but i don't think i have any other choice as it physically won't fit in any wall socket (or the ones on my UPS) without one

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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On 6/3/2022 at 10:25 AM, ReggieGRS said:

Aren't they supposed to be rated to withstand drawing X amount of power? I have no idea what is the rating on that old cable.

Cables should be good for what ever rating the power supply needs. It appears you have a faulty cable, the one that sparked. You appear to have a good cable, the old one. So use the old one in the power supply that sparked, after cleaning any soot and try it. That also saves unplugging the old power supply from the computer and hopefully plugging in the new power supply correctly.

 

Buying a new power supply with the wrong cable for your country is just land-fill (more rubbish). It would appear you don't know enough to rewire the cable with the correct plug for your country so don't do it. Go to a shop and buy the right cable.

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Update: The RMi is actually dead as well. Not just the cable. Took it to a shop and it was unable to power a regular system. My main PC however, seems to be in perfect working order. It booted up as if nothing happened with the new PSU.

 

I've no interest in a "repaired" PSU as i don't trust most "experts" here. But i am still confused as to why it died the way it did i truly do not see the sense in it.

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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5 minutes ago, ReggieGRS said:

It booted up as if nothing happened with the new PSU.

 

But i am still confused as to why it died the way it did i truly do not see the sense in it.

so you think no other component was harmed and the PSU was "dead"? As you pointed out it did sound a bit violent.

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yeah well you are one of the unlucky 0.005% or so.  

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

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Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

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Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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11 hours ago, ReggieGRS said:

Update: The RMi is actually dead as well.

RMI is an organization in the United States dedicated to research, publication, consulting, and lecturing in the general field of sustainability, with a special focus on profitable innovations for energy and resource efficiency.

 

So why is your one dead?

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On 6/7/2022 at 6:20 AM, RollyShed said:

RMI is an organization in the United States dedicated to research, publication, consulting, and lecturing in the general field of sustainability, with a special focus on profitable innovations for energy and resource efficiency.

 

So why is your one dead?

What? OP is talking about a Corsair RMi series powersupply.

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On 6/6/2022 at 7:43 PM, Quackers101 said:

so you think no other component was harmed and the PSU was "dead"? As you pointed out it did sound a bit violent.

I don't believe so. PC's been running for a few days now and i see absolutely nothing wrong, thankfully. And yeah it was kinda chaotic but i still truly thought it was just a bad cable, and not the entire PSU. I'll be more careful with the power cables from now on.
 

On 6/7/2022 at 3:32 AM, SavageNeo said:

yeah well you are one of the unlucky 0.005% or so.  

Seems so. All in all, however, i'm just glad none of my other components were damaged as well. i'll take the L on the PSU and move on. Lol.

Current System

 

Mobo: MSI MEG Z390 Godlike // CPU: i9-9900K // GPU: Galax Hall of Fame RTX 2080 Ti // RAM: 64GB Vengeance LPX // Cooling: D15S with 3 Noctua Fans // Storage: 1TB SSD Samsung 860 EVO, 6TB Seagate Barracuda PRO // PSU: HX 850w 80+ Platinum // Case: TT View 37 RGB Edition

 

Old System (Now Retired)

 

Mobo: Asus B85M-E // CPU: i7-4770K // GPU: Gigabyte G1 1070 // RAM: 16GB Single Channel // Cooling: Stock Intel // Storage: 167 GB SDD OCZ Agility3, 2 TB Seagate Barracuda // PSU: AeroCool Strike X 800w 80+ Silver // Case: Corsair SPEC-03 Blue LED Mid-Tower

 

Peripherals And Others

 

Mouse: Corsair Glaive RGB Pro // Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X Chroma Mercury White // Headphone: Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 // Display: LG 2560x1080 34' 144Hz Ultrawide // UPS: Pure Sine Wave, Online Topology 3000VA (2100w)

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Arcing on the input power connector could definitely take out a PSU, though I would really like to think that a competent engineer designed the input network to protect against this.

 

Nevertheless, I would be very surprised if it took anything beyond the PSU out. Honestly, the PSU itself probably wouldn't be a hard fix.

 

 

 

FWIW, typically computers will ship with an 18 AWG power cord, which is rated (in the US at least) for about 10 A, which corresponds to 1200W of input power assuming the power factor is 1. For normal PC power supplies these days, the PF should be very close to 1. Even for a pretty big PC, unless you're running everything at full power all the time, this would probably be fine, but a 16 AWG power cord would pretty much cover your bases for everything. This information is always printed on the side of the cable, along with its temperature and voltage rating (probably 60C and 300 V).

 

 

 

 

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