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Why’s cpu cooler installation so HARD

I tried to install my new ryzen 5600x yesterday but its so hard! The cooler kept slipping off the paste when screwed in? So i finally thought i had fixed it but my temps are 96 degrees idle so i think its not connecting anymore, I’m using amd stealth cooler  Please help I don’t want to take it to the local pc shop which charges 40 odd quid per half an hour…

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Because it needs to stay hard enough to keep the gap between IHS and the cooler itself small.

The trick is to actually screw all of them 4 loose first, then tighten them in turn with the X-method, not one at once, and tighten them until they won't turn anymore.

 

And perhaps, change the paste as probably it slip way too much outside the CPU and scrapped on the side of the CPU.

Humor me, as you should do.

 

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As Tukang mentioned above, screw it in from a diagonal position first.

 

AMD's stock coolers are okay, but there are better options out there that make use of better mounting systems.

You can get a Cooler Master Hyper 212 for about $50 tops. Definitely cheaper than going to as you mentioned "A local pc shop which charges 40 quid per half hour"

CPU : Intel i5-12600K

Motherboard : ASUS TUF Z690-PLUS WIFI D4

RAM : Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200MHz CL16 (2x8GB)

AIO : Corsair H100i 240MM

GPU : Asus TUF RTX3070

Case : ThermalTake Core P3

Keyboard : D60 HHKB with Jwick Ultimate Black switches, G81-3000SAV PBT keycaps

Mouse : Logitech G Pro Wireless

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13 minutes ago, matt4realz said:

As Tukang mentioned above, screw it in from a diagonal position first.

 

AMD's stock coolers are okay, but there are better options out there that make use of better mounting systems.

You can get a Cooler Master Hyper 212 for about $50 tops. Definitely cheaper than going to as you mentioned "A local pc shop which charges 40 quid per half hour"

I’ve been using the cross method but i think the problem is that, i used the old cooler and the thermal paste had withered so i will install the new cooler with its already used pre applied thermal paste or should i just wipe paste off cpu and cooler and apply my syy-157

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Every time you remove a cooler, you should always do a wipe and re-paste.

CPU : Intel i5-12600K

Motherboard : ASUS TUF Z690-PLUS WIFI D4

RAM : Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200MHz CL16 (2x8GB)

AIO : Corsair H100i 240MM

GPU : Asus TUF RTX3070

Case : ThermalTake Core P3

Keyboard : D60 HHKB with Jwick Ultimate Black switches, G81-3000SAV PBT keycaps

Mouse : Logitech G Pro Wireless

Audio : Edifier R1280DBs | Sennheiser HD598

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1 minute ago, matt4realz said:

Every time you remove a cooler, you should always do a wipe and re-paste.

I thought so i only skipped it last time because i lost the will to live, I’ve had to reset my windows because pc wouldnt boot on uefi for some reason so i made a diskpart, do you reckon if i fix the paste on the NEW cooler and get it screwed in properly i should have no problems? The cpu is performing terribling for some reason though? On benchmark application it ran a game and it was on 8 fps! Then at the end it went to 2.2 thousand frames so should i be fine after fixing cooler?

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Remove cooler, clean the paste 

Apply paste or leave just the paste on the cooler.

Put the cooler on the cpu making sure the heatsink surface sits flat on the cpu, you don't want the heatsink to stay on the plastic of the socket.

Align the 4 screws with the locations where screws go and twists the screws a few times until they all catch the thread.

Now twist each screw a bit at a time, screw one a bit, then the one diagonally across it, then move to another and then the one opposite it and so on, until all four screws are tight enough (you want to be almost impossible to twist the cooler on top the cpu)

 

Plug the fan connector in the CPU_FAN or whatever is default cpu fan header on your motherboard.  

 

The cooler replacement won't fix completely unrelated unconnected issues like not booting on uefi.

 

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40 minutes ago, Owrw said:

so should i be fine after fixing cooler?

It should be, your CPU keeps throttling because of the not good thermal transfer.

Agree with @matt4realz, you can actually invest in more decent cooler, heard a lot that 212 is indeed good and your 5600X would be happy to have it.

 

Would be nice to buy some thermal paste (either Noctua's NT-H1 or NT-H2, yet personally using NT-H1 and it works great for me to keep it below 67 (Cooler Master T20 cooler) even it's being stress-tested for half of hour (it's the max I record and I think it's the equilibrium)) either if you f-up the installation process again. Either, you can use it 2 years later on to change your CPU + GPU pastes.

Humor me, as you should do.

 

Daily drivers, below.

 

Diccbudd PC

Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 3.2 GHz 4C/4T CPU || ASRock B75M Motherboard || Hynix 8 GB + Team Group 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM || 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3 SATA SSD // 1 TB Seagate 2.5" HDD || be quiet! System Power 9 500W PSU || Cooler Master T20 CPU Cooler || Samsung S19D300 + LG L177WSB Monitors || Fantech X6 Knight Mouse || VortexSeries VX7 Pro Keyboard

 

Acer Aspire 4253, runs as NAS 24/7

AMD E-350 1.6 GHz 2C/2T CPU || 3 GB DDR3 1066 MHz RAM || 1 TB HDD for whole family movie pleasure

 

Xiaomi Redmi Note 8

4GB RAM, 64GB Internal Storage  || 64GB SanDisk Ultra (80MB/s Read) External Storage || Resurrection Remix Custom ROM

 

Audio

Some random 2.1 home-theater speakers with old computer speaker amplifier. It sounds good af tho. || dbE DJ100 Headphone || Rock Space Obsidian Earphone || JCALLY JM6 CX31933 DAC

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Arctic Silver 5 is always good enough. You just need a 120mm air cooler and you should be fine. They are all pretty much the same. A better fan adds cooling power. The best option is a 240mm AIO cooler but air cooler fans will argue that point. Never use stock coolers but always expect them to be included with your new PC purchase. They make great paper weights and decorations. 

Ryzen 5600 Be Quiet! PureBase500DX  CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 240mm RGB  Asus ROG Strix B450-F  1660 Super  Crucial DDR4 32GB 2x16 3800mhz  SK Hynix Gold P31 1TB NVMe  Seagate Barracuda 3TB  Mechanical Keyboard Red switches Logitech G402 mouse  EVGA Supernova 550w GA gold   32" Acer curved 1440p 144hz 32" MSI Curved 1440p165hz  Aopen 32" 1440p 144hz

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3 minutes ago, Columbo said:

Arctic Silver 5 is always good enough. You just need a 120mm air cooler and you should be fine. They are all pretty much the same. A better fan adds cooling power. The best option is a 240mm AIO cooler but air cooler fans will argue that point. Never use stock coolers but always expect them to be included with your new PC purchase. They make great paper weights and decorations. 

For a 5600X, the stock cooler is fine if you're not overclocking. The issue here is the re-use of thermal paste. AMD stock coolers are way better than Intel ones, and AMD CPUs don't need nearly as much power as Intel ones.

 

But if the OP wants to upgrade to a tower cooler, I don't think that's a bad idea. The Hyper 212, Vetroo V5, Gammax 400, and Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 are all good, inexpensive options.

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1 minute ago, YoungBlade said:

For a 5600X, the stock cooler is fine if you're not overclocking. The issue here is the re-use of thermal paste. AMD stock coolers are way better than Intel ones, and AMD CPUs don't need nearly as much power as Intel ones.

 

But if the OP wants to upgrade to a tower cooler, I don't think that's a bad idea. The Hyper 212, Vetroo V5, Gammax 400, and Thermalright Assassin Spirit 120 are all good, inexpensive options.

I am not disagreeing your your last statement on possible 120mm air coolers. All good choices. During the pandemic I bought a Dell with an i5 10400. I just wanted the 1660 super in it and gave it to my brother. I put in a Ventroo V5 ($25) before even turning on the Dell. It runs at full turbo speed and never throttles. The Ventroo is compact and was the only 120mm cooler that would fit the Dell case. 

 

I agree the AMD included coolers are much better than what intel includes with their CPU's. They still suck, just not as bad as the other free with CPU air coolers. 

 

I just got a standard 5600 to replace my 3600. It has the B2 stepping. I manually OC my CPU,  no turbo. Without a very good air cooler or 240mm AIO or better. You can't get much out of your CPU. 

CPU-z 5600.png

Ryzen 5600 Be Quiet! PureBase500DX  CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 240mm RGB  Asus ROG Strix B450-F  1660 Super  Crucial DDR4 32GB 2x16 3800mhz  SK Hynix Gold P31 1TB NVMe  Seagate Barracuda 3TB  Mechanical Keyboard Red switches Logitech G402 mouse  EVGA Supernova 550w GA gold   32" Acer curved 1440p 144hz 32" MSI Curved 1440p165hz  Aopen 32" 1440p 144hz

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1 minute ago, Columbo said:

I agree the AMD included coolers are much better than what intel includes with their CPU's. They still suck, just not as bad as the other free with CPU air coolers. 

 

I just got a standard 5600 to replace my 3600. It has the B2 stepping. I manually OC my CPU,  no turbo. Without a very good air cooler or 240mm AIO or better. You can't get much out of your CPU.

I specifically said "if you're not overclocking." I was ignoring your use case for a reason. Yes, if you are overclocking, the Wraith Stealth stock cooler is insufficient. I don't think anyone would question that.

 

If you're not overclocking, though, how does the AMD stock cooler suck? You'll get 100% of the rated performance out of the CPU - it won't thermal throttle or downclock itself to stay away from 100C. Unlike with Intel CPUs, where Intel has to turn down the power after 56 seconds and use power limiting to throttle the CPU to stop the included stock cooler from thermal limiting the CPU.

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3 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

I specifically said "if you're not overclocking." I was ignoring your use case for a reason. Yes, if you are overclocking, the Wraith Stealth stock cooler is insufficient. I don't think anyone would question that.

 

If you're not overclocking, though, how does the AMD stock cooler suck? You'll get 100% of the rated performance out of the CPU - it won't thermal throttle or downclock itself to stay away from 100C. Unlike with Intel CPUs, where Intel has to turn down the power after 56 seconds and use power limiting to throttle the CPU to stop the included stock cooler from thermal limiting the CPU.

Several years ago AMD suggested using after market coolers for maximum performance. That includes running a 5600x at stock settings. $20-30 is a small price to pay to never have to worry about throttling or performance issues related to heat. 

Ryzen 5600 Be Quiet! PureBase500DX  CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 240mm RGB  Asus ROG Strix B450-F  1660 Super  Crucial DDR4 32GB 2x16 3800mhz  SK Hynix Gold P31 1TB NVMe  Seagate Barracuda 3TB  Mechanical Keyboard Red switches Logitech G402 mouse  EVGA Supernova 550w GA gold   32" Acer curved 1440p 144hz 32" MSI Curved 1440p165hz  Aopen 32" 1440p 144hz

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7 hours ago, matt4realz said:

As Tukang mentioned above, screw it in from a diagonal position first

agreed,  that helps (and p sure the manual tells you this)

 

7 hours ago, matt4realz said:

AMD's stock coolers are okay, but there are better options out there that make use of better mounting systems.

well... the ones with 4 screws... are the simplest thing ever, they even click audibly when they reached the proper torque .

 

 

Noctua is similarly easy (only 2 screws) but the cooler itself is gigantic, which makes it somewhat harder!

 

4 hours ago, YoungBlade said:

Yes, if you are overclocking, the Wraith Stealth stock cooler is insufficient. I don't think anyone would question that.

Well, hello! 😅 Oc'd a 2200G with stock cooler, both GPU and CPU pretty heavily (but nothing crazy) and there wasn't any issue... 80/85c max iirc... 

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4 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Well, hello! 😅 Oc'd a 2200G with stock cooler, both GPU and CPU pretty heavily (but nothing crazy) and there wasn't any issue... 80/85c max iirc... 

Fair enough! For the Ryzen 3 series, the Wraith Stealth is perfectly sufficient for OC. Obviously, it would also be sufficient for Athlon, too. Assuming the Athlon series included it rather than the little pinner A-series throwback cooler, although I've heard that even that's fine for OC on the Athlon chips.

 

It's with the Ryzen 5 series and up that the Wraith Stealth starts to be an issue. Although the Wraith Spire and Wraith Prism coolers included with the older higher-end chips can hold their own for OC from what I've heard. But sadly AMD started to cheap out on box coolers with the 5000 series, and I don't think we'll see a return to form with the 7000 series, unfortunately.

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