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So, my i9-12900K sits at 95-100C (downthrottling I suppose?) during workloads

Olliver Aira

Hi, so I just discovered that my i9-12900K sits at 100C during max load (I do some heavy computation on the device that should be able to utilize pretty much all those cores to 100%)

 

Should I be concerned about this and lower the max temp to say at least 90C? Do I do that in the BIOS or where do I do that exactly? Im running Win11. The rig runs under max load quite often,  its a full tower case however with a decent amount of fans so Im not so afraid of nearby hardware being affected but rather the CPU core (& maybe the socket) itself

 

Also looking at the Performance stats of HWMonitor and comparing it to task manger - Because there data dont line up, Task Manager is telling me the CPU utilization is at 100% while HWMonitor is telling me that its not??? Ive been running this system for several months now in belief that the system was cooled approporitely as ait could hit like 95% utilization (according to task manager). Is task manager simply lying here?

 

The cooler I have is a Cryorig H7 (I was able to reuse this from an older rig thanks to the Asus z690-P that I bought had older fan screw holes), the thermal paste I used was some silver flake based thermal paste (ught, cant remember the name of it - it was actually also some older thermal paste, leftovers in the tube from my previous build, the tube was sealed properly non the less).

 

Im somewhat budget constrained but, Im realizing I should probably look at replacing my cooler. What would be a good fit to replace it with? Ive been afraid of using water coolers as I really dont want to end up with a soaked PC one day.

 

Would it maybe be sufficient to just replace the fan of my H7 with something high end from Noctua? xD

 

 

 

image.png.1048ed80ebf1bfa5766b73f05384942b.pngimage.thumb.png.5c430f41fbb332e77489ee521c29a57c.png

 

Semi-idle temps (I still had quite a few apps running in the background here but, at least no compute workload running):

image.png.fe3774ff4b15ce26c242756c354ea5ae.png

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.75f8239500a23bb8c1d06b3e6b8891bf.jpeg

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Everything is manufacture settings, I havent touched the BIOS or anything like that at all

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6 minutes ago, Olliver Aira said:

Everything is manufacture settings, I havent touched the BIOS or anything like that at all

check the bios for a settings called Asus Multicore Enhancement. It may be enabled by default which may cause higher power draw and temps. Try turning that setting off first for stock operation.

A better / additional fan can help but not as much as a new cooler. 

What case are you using and how are the case fans set up? 

9 minutes ago, Olliver Aira said:

Also looking at the Performance stats of HWMonitor and comparing it to task manger - Because there data dont line up, Task Manager is telling me the CPU utilization is at 100% while HWMonitor is telling me that its not???

How cpu utilization reading is determined may be different.  

 

Moved to Cooling.

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12 minutes ago, Olliver Aira said:

Im somewhat budget constrained but, Im realizing I should probably look at replacing my cooler. What would be a good fit to replace it with? Ive been afraid of using water coolers as I really dont want to end up with a soaked PC one day.

Thermalright macho: 

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jr6qqs/thermalright-macho-revc-8497-cfm-cpu-cooler-macho-revc

 

Scythe fuma: 

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/D3Gbt6/scythe-fuma-2-revb-3944-cfm-cpu-cooler-scfm-2100

 

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

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i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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As good as older Thermalright coolers are, I have a hard time recommending them for AM4 and up. Their new line is much better, and can deal with the heat better. That is a beast of a CPU, and you should get a beast of a cooler, like Thermalright FC140. I got mine from AlieExpress. You should consider their socket stiffener at the same time.

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Thanks for the replies everyone!

 

15 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

 

Those coolers look awfully similar to wha I already have. I believe my cooler is supposed to perform similarily to something like (assuming my cooler doesnt have poor contact somewhere)https://www.webhallen.com/se/product/108849-Noctua-CPU-Kylare-NH-U9B-SE2?channable=00c0c769640031303838343918&gclid=CjwKCAjwj42UBhAAEiwACIhADq1-uduNwJhhEFb79yQQGluwhxcnXlyb082QDHhTG_6u2QZqOgE5NBoCovQQAvD_BwE . Again, this is my current cooler: https://www.inet.se/produkt/6912041/cryorig-h7-universal?gclid=CjwKCAjwj42UBhAAEiwACIhADhOuO4PxC0S7F3rKjsjqMkASgaxT0gFI69dTXCVUDF_fvgd97cTzOBoCKroQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds which I bought like 5 years ago or something, maybe the mounting pressure is too low on this newer CPU model? Afterall the fan mounting standard I use is outdated and meant for older CPUs that are slightly thicker

 

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Until I get a better cooling solution though, is it safe for the CPU to sit at 100c, or should I lower the max temp to say 90c (and if so, where do I do that exactly? Can I do it in the BIOS or will Windows just overwrite  that anyway?)?

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2 hours ago, Olliver Aira said:

Until I get a better cooling solution though, is it safe for the CPU to sit at 100c, or should I lower the max temp to say 90c (and if so, where do I do that exactly? Can I do it in the BIOS or will Windows just overwrite  that anyway?)?

You should be able to change the max temperature in the BIOS. If you can't find that setting, or if it's not there for some reason, you can change the power limit to something more reasonable for your cooler - perhaps 175W rather than the default 240W+. Do note that both of these options will result in lower performance under all-core loads, because the CPU will have less thermal or power headroom respectively.

 

If you really want to get into the weeds, you could try undervolting your processor. That would lower temperatures and power draw without impacting performance. You could start with a basic -50mv offset (-0.050V) and see if your system is still stable using a program like OCCT. Then lower it in -10mv increments until the system crashes or OCCT shows errors. Then bring it back up.

 

If you can get a good undervolt, it could just solve your problem outright without sacrificing performance. Although odds are, unless your chip is a great undervolter, you're going to need to upgrade the cooler.

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4 hours ago, Olliver Aira said:

Thanks for the replies everyone!

 

 

Those coolers look awfully similar to wha I already have. I believe my cooler is supposed to perform similarily to something like (assuming my cooler doesnt have poor contact somewhere)https://www.webhallen.com/se/product/108849-Noctua-CPU-Kylare-NH-U9B-SE2?channable=00c0c769640031303838343918&gclid=CjwKCAjwj42UBhAAEiwACIhADq1-uduNwJhhEFb79yQQGluwhxcnXlyb082QDHhTG_6u2QZqOgE5NBoCovQQAvD_BwE . Again, this is my current cooler: https://www.inet.se/produkt/6912041/cryorig-h7-universal?gclid=CjwKCAjwj42UBhAAEiwACIhADhOuO4PxC0S7F3rKjsjqMkASgaxT0gFI69dTXCVUDF_fvgd97cTzOBoCKroQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds which I bought like 5 years ago or something, maybe the mounting pressure is too low on this newer CPU model? Afterall the fan mounting standard I use is outdated and meant for older CPUs that are slightly thicker

 

These coolers are significantly larger than the one you're using. Not that your current cooler is a bad cooler, but it has its limits.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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I would go with minimum 360 AIO for 12900k

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3 hours ago, Olliver Aira said:

Until I get a better cooling solution though, is it safe for the CPU to sit at 100c, or should I lower the max temp to say 90c (and if so, where do I do that exactly? Can I do it in the BIOS or will Windows just overwrite  that anyway?)?

Probably.

If you're worried see if there's a setting in BIOS to limit power draw. You can get like 90% of the performance at half the power draw.
 

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air cooling, or even a 280mm AIO isn't enough for a 12900k, you need a 360/420mm, whatever fits ur case. The stock load can go up to 300w and it's hitting 100C at 160w

5950x 1.33v 5.05 4.5 88C 195w ll R20 12k ll drp4 ll x570 dark hero ll gskill 4x8gb 3666 14-14-14-32-320-24-2T (zen trfc)  1.45v 45C 1.15v soc ll 6950xt gaming x trio 325w 60C ll samsung 970 500gb nvme os ll sandisk 4tb ssd ll 6x nf12/14 ippc fans ll tt gt10 case ll evga g2 1300w ll w10 pro ll 34GN850B ll AW3423DW

 

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prebuilt 5800 stock ll 2x8gb ddr4 cl17 3466 ll oem 3080 0.85v 1890//10000 290w 74C ll 27gl850b ll pa272w ll w11

 

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1.45V max according to your screenshot is fucking bonkers so the BIOS is doing some stupid overclocking on its own.  

 

But still 1.2V you shouldn't be thermal throttling and your idle temperatures seem high.  I'd guess the mounting pressure isn't good or something along those lines (like maybe the board is warping)

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  • 4 months later...
On 5/17/2022 at 2:44 PM, Olliver Aira said:

Until I get a better cooling solution though, is it safe for the CPU to sit at 100c, or should I lower the max temp to say 90c (and if so, where do I do that exactly? Can I do it in the BIOS or will Windows just overwrite  that anyway?)?

Did you resolve this Issue? how is it going now?

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