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PSU failure.

Slazeus
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So my nephews PSU just died.

The system had been having issues for a short while before that. (Like blue screens, boot troubles etc.) Am I right in assuming the culprit was the psu then?

It just died when he flipped the power switch on earlier. (popped the breaker in the house as well)
 

Have to wait a day or two for a replacement unit to arrive but how concerned should he be about his other components? 

The unit was a Corsair 850W. 

 

Thanks!

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5 minutes ago, Slazeus said:

The unit was a Corsair 850W. 

Which one exactly?

BabyBlu (Primary Rig): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3Ghz, 5.0Ghz all-core
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000Mhz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070Mhz core, 8000Mhz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB NVME, 3x ADATA Ultimate SU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 200Hz(OC) Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ Per Core 5.0Ghz - 5.0Ghz - 4.9Ghz - 4.8Ghz, Cache @ 4.6Ghz, relidded with LM TIM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 with LM TIM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, With Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 1TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BlackBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Intel Pentium G4600 (Kaby Lake)
  • Motherboard: Asus H110T/CSM Thin Mini-ITX
  • RAM: Corsair 2x8GB DDR4-2133 CL15 SO-DIMM @ 2400Mhz 11-15-15-32
  • GPU: HD 630
  • Case: Akasa Euler Fanless Solid Aluminum THIN Mini ITX Case (passively cooled)
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
  • PSU: External 120W Power Adaptor
  • Display: 4K TV
  • Cooling: Passively cooled by the Akasa case. No moving parts!
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Handheld QWERTY keyboard and trackpad.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro, Kodi autostarts on boot

Harmonic (Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 48GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Antec Three Hundred
  • Storage: Inland Premium 512GB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S with 2X Fractal Venturi HP-12
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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5 minutes ago, Slazeus said:

how concerned should he be about his other components? 

The unit was a Corsair 850W. 

Which Corsair unit?

 

They're generally of a pretty good quality so the likelihood of it killing another component is low, but not zero. If you could test with another PSU in the meantime that would be ideal, so that you could order replacements sooner rather than later

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - dark mode Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus thread, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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You had luck that it is an Corsair one, they have a 10y warranty. The other components are probably fine, but you can search for burnt spots on the MB near the powerlines. 

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I'm not there just now so can't check the exact model but I think it had a 80 plus bronze I remember right. Didn't catch any visible damage at a glance before I left but hopefully when the replacement arrives all will be fine!

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blue screens are not a psu issue, usually that issue is in other hardware.

 

boot troubles could be a psu issue, depends on the troubles tho

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

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|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

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| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

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( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

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Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

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Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

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(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

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1 hour ago, Hokahn said:

You had luck that it is an Corsair one, they have a 10y warranty.

Depends on the model. It's 5 - 10 years.

32 minutes ago, Slazeus said:

I'm not there just now so can't check the exact model but I think it had a 80 plus bronze

Post a picture of the label.

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5 hours ago, SavageNeo said:

blue screens are not a psu issue, usually that issue is in other hardware.

 

boot troubles could be a psu issue, depends on the troubles tho

That depends on what the PSU is causing, I have had blue screens solved by a replaced PSU. For example could be supplying insufficient voltage for the CPU and it causes errors. Or worse case, incorrect voltage causes damage to other components like ram. But for OP's sake I hope that didn't happen.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k (won) - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

Linux Proliant ML150 G6:

Dual Xeon X5560 - 24GB ECC DDR3 - GTX 750 TI - old Seagate 1.5TB HDD - dark mode Ubuntu (and Win7, cuz why not)

 

How many watts do I need? Seasonic Focus thread, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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OK so got the replacement power supply, fitted it (and after the mandatory moment of "S*** it still doesn't work!" after forgetting the power switch on the psu) everything seems to be working smoothly, Had to reinstall windows too though so guess something must have become corrupted when the old one went. Thumbs up to Corsair for making units that can die gracefully when they go!

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