Gpu idle at 80C After full custom Cooling of cpu and gpu

[Scorpio312]

6 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Thats still way to high on water. You should be idling on full custom water in the upper 20s low 30s depending on your ambient room temp. 

it says that do you know how to change the power voltage

[Skiiwee29]

So the bottom right says Power Limit %, thats what im talking about. Since you're at 100%, thats a good thing and not an indication. You're still thermal throttling so something still isn't right with your block mount if your temps are that high assuming your CPU temps are fine and its not a loop issue, which doesn't appear to be. 

[Scorpio312]

18 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Thats still way to high on water. You should be idling on full custom water in the upper 20s low 30s depending on your ambient room temp. 

nvm im still idling 88c after replacing thermal pads and paste and putting on the backplate

[Scorpio312]

29 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

So the bottom right says Power Limit %, thats what im talking about. Since you're at 100%, thats a good thing and not an indication. You're still thermal throttling so something still isn't right with your block mount if your temps are that high assuming your CPU temps are fine and its not a loop issue, which doesn't appear to be. 

yea my cpu temp is running at 38c. i thought it couldve been that the water isn't moving throughout the block but i dont really know. been at this for 2 weeks now 

[Skiiwee29]

Just now, Scorpio312 said:

yea my cpu temp is running at 38c. i thought it couldve been that the water isn't moving throughout the block but i dont really know. been at this for 2 weeks now 

Then its 100% most definitely going to be the water block itself, its mounting. You did remove the plastic off the GPU cold plate before installing right? IIRC there is a plastic REMOVE BEFORE INSTALLING sticker on the GPU Cold plate. 

[Scorpio312]

1 minute ago, Skiiwee29 said:

Then its 100% most definitely going to be the water block itself, its mounting. You did remove the plastic off the GPU cold plate before installing right? IIRC there is a plastic REMOVE BEFORE INSTALLING sticker on the GPU Cold plate. 

yea it has been removed, i removed it like 2 weeks ago

 

[Skiiwee29]

1 minute ago, Scorpio312 said:

yea it has been removed, i removed it like 2 weeks ago

 

then its a problem with either the block not being the block it says and not compatible fully with your GPU, or wrong sized thermal pads still.. not all pads are the same, you will have some that are .5mm all the way up to 1.5 or even 2mm in some cases. 

[Scorpio312]

4 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

then its a problem with either the block not being the block it says and not compatible fully with your GPU, or wrong sized thermal pads still.. not all pads are the same, you will have some that are .5mm all the way up to 1.5 or even 2mm in some cases. 

Well i know thermal pads aren't the issue so should i just replace the block.

[For Science!]

Doubt the block is bad. Most likely user error here. You should post the following three photos:

 

1. The PCB side of the card after removing the waterblock showing the thermal paste spread (you should see the lightning/fractal spread of the thermal paste)

2. The Waterblock side showing the thermal paste spread on the block.

3. A complete view of the card before putting it together showing the placement of the thermal pads, as well as the thermal paste before mounting.

 

This is by far the fastest way to diagnose your problem.

examples from my own build (the three photos are not the same card, but demonstrates what I need)

1.

 

2.

 

3.

[alphatessi]

Hi there, any Idea about watertemp and flowrate?

what kind of paste do you use? How did the spreading look when you took it apart? if the paste is too thick, the heat transfer wont work great. that checks out with the mounting pressure and thickness of the thermal pads like soneone mentioned before.

But 60C is even under load a lot on a watercooled 2060.

 

 

edit: exactly what For science posted in the meantime 

 

 

[AnonymousGuy]

18 hours ago, alphatessi said:

Hi there, any Idea about watertemp and flowrate?

what kind of paste do you use? How did the spreading look when you took it apart? if the paste is too thick, the heat transfer wont work great. that checks out with the mounting pressure and thickness of the thermal pads like soneone mentioned before.

But 60C is even under load a lot on a watercooled 2060.

 

 

edit: exactly what For science posted in the meantime 

 

 

Idling at high temperature is 100% a block mounting problem where it's not getting enough clamping pressure.  Their CPU would also be at high temperature if it was a loop problem like water temperature.  Flowrate is never a problem unless the loop is fully clogged and the flowrate is zero.

 

Too thick of thermal pads, covering a component that shouldn't be covered with a thermal pad (like a capacitor or something that sits high by itself), the standoffs on the block coming unscrewed.  Maybe if the screws aren't tightened enough but I've never had that problem...even with screws that don't have springs on them I always tighten until the screwdriver cams out and that's tight enough.

 

@OP ideally we should be able to see the etching marks from the top of the die  (actually the backside of the wafer...) on the surface of the waterblock.  That means it made enough clamping pressure.

[alphatessi]

2 hours ago, AnonymousGuy said:

Idling at high temperature is 100% a block mounting problem where it's not getting enough clamping pressure.  Their CPU would also be at high temperature if it was a loop problem like water temperature.  Flowrate is never a problem unless the loop is fully clogged and the flowrate is zero.

 

Too thick of thermal pads, covering a component that shouldn't be covered with a thermal pad (like a capacitor or something that sits high by itself), the standoffs on the block coming unscrewed.  Maybe if the screws aren't tightened enough but I've never had that problem...even with screws that don't have springs on them I always tighten until the screwdriver cams out and that's tight enough.

 

@OP ideally we should be able to see the etching marks from the top of the die  (actually the backside of the wafer...) on the surface of the waterblock.  That means it made enough clamping pressure.

flowrate was what i mean. maybe the pump is not running. but if i remember right he did not mention CPU Temp-problems so i think the pump is fine and we should focus on the die to block contact.