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Fiber to out building

NoobIam
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Looking to run from main building to a out building about 450 feet away. New to Fiber Would this cable and 2 of these work? Is there a better way? Any one know how deep I need to lay the cable?

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716XT1QT/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AK4611NBN3D7D&th=1

Preterminated Fiber Optic Cable - 6 Fiber 50/125 OM3 Outdoor Armored cable, terminated with LC connectors

Reference#: 72570

Item#: PT6LC24

Base Price: $195.00
Additional per foot: Price: $1.60 – Qty in Cart: 450
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Running 450 ft, I'd either:

A) do it right, bury a conduit 18" down and blow the fiber into it, and run armored singlemode fiber

B) Save 75% of the money and run a Ubiquit airFiber or Netgear Wireless Airbridge or similar and skip the fiber run

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Another option would be to use regular cat5e / cat6 cable and have a basic switch mid-way as a repeater - could even get one powered over ethernet so you don't need separate power cables.

 

For example this $50 Microtik basic switch with PoE input : https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB260GS-CSS106-5G-1S-Ethernet-Original/dp/B00GAZ2HHS/

 

Cable can be cheaper than fiber, for example 300ft of cat6 for 90$, or 200ft for 65$  so you could get 500ft for $155  :  https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-connectors-Internet-Waterproof-Resistant/dp/B095XLYDTC/

 

A PoE injector on one end is cheap, 20-30$, if the switch doesn't have ports with PoE out. 

 

If you're worried about lightning strikes or stuff like that, then yeah, you'd need fiber. 

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15 hours ago, jec6613 said:

Running 450 ft, I'd either:

A) do it right, bury a conduit 18" down and blow the fiber into it, and run armored singlemode fiber

B) Save 75% of the money and run a Ubiquit airFiber or Netgear Wireless Airbridge or similar and skip the fiber run

Why would Single mode be better and why is Conduit better? 

never used "Ubiquit airFiber" but this is on a side of a hill with no Los As hill gets in the way. 

 

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7 hours ago, mariushm said:

Another option would be to use regular cat5e / cat6 cable and have a basic switch mid-way as a repeater - could even get one powered over ethernet so you don't need separate power cables.

 

For example this $50 Microtik basic switch with PoE input : https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB260GS-CSS106-5G-1S-Ethernet-Original/dp/B00GAZ2HHS/

 

Cable can be cheaper than fiber, for example 300ft of cat6 for 90$, or 200ft for 65$  so you could get 500ft for $155  :  https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-connectors-Internet-Waterproof-Resistant/dp/B095XLYDTC/

 

A PoE injector on one end is cheap, 20-30$, if the switch doesn't have ports with PoE out. 

 

If you're worried about lightning strikes or stuff like that, then yeah, you'd need fiber. 

I did not know you could run a switch over poe and have it extend the reach of cat 5 or 6. There is lighting in my area Ma Is that a big concern? 
Could use some thing like this i would think. 
https://www.amazon.com/CENTROPOWER-Outdoor-Extender-Booster-Passthrough/dp/B08SQ5PCY3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SVVTLUA0BCDY&keywords=poe%2Boutdoor%2Bswitch&qid=1638457728&sprefix=Poe%2Boutdoor%2Celectronics%2C164&sr=8-3&th=1

 

 

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3 minutes ago, NoobIam said:

I did not know you could run a switch over poe and have it extend the reach of cat 5 or 6. There is lighting in my area Ma Is that a big concern? 
Could use some thing like this i would think. 
https://www.amazon.com/CENTROPOWER-Outdoor-Extender-Booster-Passthrough/dp/B08SQ5PCY3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SVVTLUA0BCDY&keywords=poe%2Boutdoor%2Bswitch&qid=1638457728&sprefix=Poe%2Boutdoor%2Celectronics%2C164&sr=8-3&th=1

 

 

It looks to me like the same kind of product I already suggested, that Microtik switch. 

It looks like it's a basic switch, but which also offers PoE through the output ports. 

 

Yes, there are a small number of switches which can power themselves from power sent through the ethernet cable. 

The Microtik switch is probably better as it even has a simple management interface you would never use. 

 

If your current equipment doesn't have PoE it's easy to add a power injector to introduce PoE to your existing network cable, here's an example : https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Ethernet-Injector-Distances-TPE-115GI/dp/B00BK4W8TQ/

 

 

I imagine you would bury the long cable, so you can manufacture a small metal box with opening just big enough for the two cable ends to get in and you put the switch in the box and forget about it. 

 

if you want to have the cable on poles / trees / in the air .. there is some risk of zapping the cable with lightning strikes but it's quite low.  Basically the electricity in the cable is quite low, and there's several layers of insulation covering the actual wires, so I imagine lightning strikes would be more attracted by other things metal and not hit a random point on the cable. 

 

I've had a cable that was almost 105 meters long, between two campus buildings.  Bought steel wire (let's say around AWG16 in thickness) between the 2nd floor of each building and made some rings with zip ties every 3-5 meters and inserted the cable through the plastic rings ... didn't tension the steel wire too hard, left a meter or so of steel wire extra, so that it could contract in the winter or expand a bit during summer.  

The steel wire was grounded on both sides so I guess that could also work as a lightning strike protection - never had any problem with it, but obviously there's lightning strike protection devices on the top of the buildings and this cable was on the 2nd floor like I said.

 

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If you're running twisted pair with a repeater (and they sell dedicated repeaters by the way, don't use a switch) you're ground bonding the two buildings.  Unless they're already using a common ground, you're going to have a bad time with stray voltage, aside from any lightning conditions.  Ground potential is not even over the surface of the earth.

 

And singlemode is better because OM3 has an upper limit on speed going forward.  If you're spending the money to bury this anyway, singlemode installed in the 80's will carry modern signals - multimode will need replacement in a decade or so.

 

Also, conduit because over that length, shifting ground and the like can make the cable more prone to damage.  A conduit protects the cable, and allows you to pull new easily if it ever is damaged.  To dig down the minimum depth you need a trenching machine, so you really don't want to have to do that again.

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1 hour ago, mariushm said:

if you want to have the cable on poles / trees / in the air .. there is some risk of zapping the cable with lightning strikes but it's quite low.  Basically the electricity in the cable is quite low, and there's several layers of insulation covering the actual wires, so I imagine lightning strikes would be more attracted by other things metal and not hit a random point on the cable.

Lightening causes enough induction to do major damage without hitting the cable.

We got hit on the chimney several feet from the phone line and it fried everything plugged into the phone line, blew up a neon light on a fused switch that was turned off and fried the next door neighbours satellite LNB that's on the opposite side of the house.

 

Since then I've been counting the days until I can get FTTP and I feel very nervous that I have a PtP wireless link and a couple of wired CCTV cameras out there.

Router: i5-7200U appliance running pfSense WiFi: Zyxel NWA210AX (~940Mbit peak) + Ubiquiti nanoHD (OpenWRT)
ISPs: Zen VDSL (~74Mbit) + Lebara 4G [Vodafone] (~120Mbit) + Three 5G (~700Mbit during quiet hours, ~500Mbit peak hours)

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"If you're running twisted pair with a repeater (and they sell dedicated repeaters by the way, don't use a switch) you're ground bonding the two buildings.  Unless they're already using a common ground, you're going to have a bad time with stray voltage, aside from any lightning conditions.  Ground potential is not even over the surface of the earth."

The main building Feeds the out building with a 220 Volt line would that be a common ground?
The twisted pair would be so cheep that I would not care if it only lasted 4 years.

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1 hour ago, NoobIam said:

The main building Feeds the out building with a 220 Volt line would that be a common ground?
The twisted pair would be so cheep that I would not care if it only lasted 4 years.

Check that if the outbuilding's panel has a ground line run between the two buildings (usually in the big bundle of cable).  If so, yes they're ground bonded.

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11 hours ago, NoobIam said:

The main building Feeds the out building with a 220 Volt line would that be a common ground?
The twisted pair would be so cheep that I would not care if it only lasted 4 years.

Don't know where you are but in the UK I believe its mandatory for an outbuilding to have its own ground.

Router: i5-7200U appliance running pfSense WiFi: Zyxel NWA210AX (~940Mbit peak) + Ubiquiti nanoHD (OpenWRT)
ISPs: Zen VDSL (~74Mbit) + Lebara 4G [Vodafone] (~120Mbit) + Three 5G (~700Mbit during quiet hours, ~500Mbit peak hours)

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ok so had a electrician look at it and tell me its already ground bounded by the 220 line. Also talked to anther that said the poe injector should be grounded as well.
It seems that  if I use This 
https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Extender-Ethernet-Extension-Breaking/dp/B08SC4LXP2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
with

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-connectors-Internet-Waterproof-Resistant/dp/B095XLYDTC/?th=1

I can only then use  PoE access point and not use a switch after to get back to cat 6. 
I would also need this at the start of the run
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BQUNEG/ref=emc_b_5_t
Would this all work with each other?

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