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2080 Super blown fuse on PCIE 12V line

Go to solution Solved by Kilrah,

This series has a 10A fuse with a Q marking and a 20A one with Z marking, that would correspond.

https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_2410sfv_datasheet.pdf.pdf

 

Seems they're bigger though, but then you know what to look for from other brands on sites like mouser/digikey etc. Voltage doesn't matter, it's on a 12V line so anything above 12V is fine.

Hi,

 

I am once again searching for somebody much more intelligent than me.

 

I have a 2080 Super, the fuse blew on the the 12v pcie line, I bridged the fuse temporarily and the card fired up fine. I shut it off and have been searching for a replacement fuse ever since. The only problem is I have no idea of the specs of the existing fuse.

 

The card is a 2080 super x from palit, the dead fuse is labelled 'Q'. There are other fuses on the board labelled 'z'. The measurements of the fuses are: L:3MM, W:1.6MM. H:0.6MM (sizes approx). Can anyboy link me to this fuse or can they suggest an alternative?

 

I figured with 75w on the 12v minimum ampage should be minimum of 6.5A, maybe 10A? but what voltage rating would I need? Any help finding a replacement or alternative would be appreciated so much.

 

I've attched 3 images.

 

 

 

 

fuselocation.jpg

OtherFuse.jpg

RemovedFused.jpg

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How did that even happen? If you aren't doing anything sketchy, you will be fine with a good old solder blob bridge. Vbios should stop the card from pulling past 75w.

mY sYsTeM iS Not pErfoRmInG aS gOOd As I sAW oN yOuTuBe. WhA t IS a GoOd FaN CuRVe??!!? wHat aRe tEh GoOd OvERclok SeTTinGS FoR My CaRd??  HoW CaN I foRcE my GpU to uSe 1o0%? BuT WiLL i HaVE Bo0tllEnEcKs? RyZEN dOeS NoT peRfORm BetTer wItH HiGhER sPEED RaM!!dId i WiN teH SiLiCON LotTerrYyOu ShoUlD dEsHrOuD uR GPUmy SYstEm iS UNDerPerforMiNg iN WarzONEcan mY Pc Run WiNdOwS 11 ?woUld BaKInG MY GRaPHics card fIX it? MultimETeR TeSTiNG!! aMd'S GpU DrIvErS aRe as goOD aS NviDia's YOU SHoUlD oVERCloCk yOUR ramS To 5000C18

 

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I honestly have no idea, it just stopped working one day, I'm guessing the fuse just had enough, nothing else in the system died etc. I've checked for shorts all over the board and checked for anything running hot under a thermal cam, but it looks all good...

 

I did think about running that way, but didn't know if there was any real risk involved. I dont overclock anything etc.

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This series has a 10A fuse with a Q marking and a 20A one with Z marking, that would correspond.

https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_2410sfv_datasheet.pdf.pdf

 

Seems they're bigger though, but then you know what to look for from other brands on sites like mouser/digikey etc. Voltage doesn't matter, it's on a 12V line so anything above 12V is fine.

F@H
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14 minutes ago, Kilrah said:

This series has a 10A fuse with a Q marking and a 20A one with Z marking, that would correspond.

https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_2410sfv_datasheet.pdf.pdf

 

Seems they're bigger though, but then you know what to look for from other brands on sites like mouser/digikey etc. Voltage doesn't matter, it's on a 12V line so anything above 12V is fine.

You sir, are a champion. Thank you.

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3 hours ago, TinyTodger said:

You sir, are a champion. Thank you.

 

Can you take a picture of the entire front side of the card?

 

Where are the shunt resistors?  I don't see them on the card at all.  This almost looks like a shunt mod where you allowed too much power through the PCIE slot by reducing the resistance of the shunts (though a 10A fuse should allow <120W directly through the PCIE slot before it blows).  On a 2080, that would literally require >600W total board power (250W through each 8 pin and then 120W through PCIE slot...).

 

Why are there open pads on the first picture of the card?  One of them looks like a shunt resistor would go there.  On the second picture, the fuses don't even have shunts next to them.  On most cards, the fuses are right next to the shunts...


If this card wasn't modded, it means that a critical failure happened somewhere and that fuse did its job and saved your card.  That means that card is not fit for service without a low level diagnostic.  I would send it to Rossman (if you can reach him) to diagnose it even if you do replace the fuse.

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Hey Falkentyne,

 

Sorry for the delayed response, been chaotic at work.

 

The open pads you can see in the picture are how they have always been on the board. I did buy it second hand ages a go off ebay, but I took a look at PCB pictures on the internet and for that card they all look the same.

 

I have since changed the fuse and checked as much of the board I can with the multimeter etc, under a thermal cam there is no excessive heat or anything that doesn't look right. I would take a picture of the pcb but it's back together now and I don't want to upset my wife by getting computer parts all over the place again...

 

I was looking to fix it with the intention of selling it on, but given that I have no way of knowing what caused the original fuse to die, I don't want to sell it on knowing it could fail again, so I've just put it in a second PC in our game room that the wife and kids use for light 1080p gaming, nice upgrade from the 970 it did have.

 

Thanks for the response, will update post if it fails again and take your advice to get it out to a professional!

 

 

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