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My motherboard takes a long time to POST

ImAlsoRan

Hey all,

 

My PC's been acting weird ever since I got my ASUS ROG B450-F motherboard. I never really noticed it until I saw a video of a super fast boot up on Windows 11. I noticed my PC doesn't really take that long to load Windows, but my PC takes around half a minute to POST. It's not really a big issue, but why does this happen? Here's a video:

(For those wondering, that last clip is me asking if there's a way to get my BIOS on my primary display. If anybody knows how, please let me know!)

 

I'm not really sure why this is happening. I have fast boot enabled and I boot off of an NVMe SSD.

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Why do you power off from the back?

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turn off fast boot, you have nvme so its a pointless feature and can affect performance, what components are you using? are you sure the power supply can handle the components? any custom settings in bios other than changing fast boot?

                          Ryzen 5800X3D(Because who doesn't like a phat stack of cache?) GPU - 7700Xt

                                                           X470 Strix f gaming, 32GB Corsair vengeance, WD Blue 500GB NVME-WD Blue2TB HDD, 700watts EVGA Br

 ~Extra L3 cache is exciting, every time you load up a new game or program you never know what your going to get, will it perform like a 5700x or are we beating the 14900k today? 😅~

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It didn't take that long to boot, atleast it was like 15 seconds on the warm boot.

It's really weird that it reports 5 usb keyboards and doesn't report your SSD on the splash screen.

you can turn of the splash screen in the bios, so it won't waste those 5 seconds sitting there.

 

And it displays on the other screen that is set as Primary in windows or is primary from your graphics card.

I really don't see any problems happening here.

 

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8 minutes ago, lotus10101 said:

Why do you power off from the back?

I typically don't. This was just to show cold vs. hot. I usually don't shut it down at all, actually, which is probably why I never noticed this until now.

6 minutes ago, lotus10101 said:

what components are you using? are you sure the power supply can handle the components? any custom settings in bios other than changing fast boot?

My components are in the signature, and I haven't had any reliability issues so I'm 99% sure the PSU can handle my components. I'll go take pictures of my BIOS settings if it helps.

6 minutes ago, KingTdiGGiTTy said:

It didn't take that long to boot, atleast it was like 15 seconds on the warm boot.

It's not much of an inconvenience, I was just wondering how others got theirs so fast.

7 minutes ago, KingTdiGGiTTy said:

It's really weird that it reports 5 usb keyboards and doesn't report your SSD on the splash screen.

Not sure why it doesn't show the SSD on splash, but the many USB keyboards are likely virtual keyboards for stuff like my mouse and other RGB peripherals. Here's a screenshot from device manager

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.2fe480e6ffd4a89ff93a8def49f9a426.png

11 minutes ago, KingTdiGGiTTy said:

you can turn of the splash screen in the bios, so it won't waste those 5 seconds sitting there.

How do I get rid of the splash screen entirely? All I think I can do is have a verbose message, which I only used in this video to show what was going on.

 

Quote or mention me or I won't be notified of your reply!

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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3 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

How do I get rid of the splash screen entirely?

I'm not entirely familiar with ASUS bios layout, but I've seen other people do it before and I did it with my gigabyte board

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With that many connected devices your PC might just take a little longer to identify and verify connections and stuff before it boots up all the way.

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2 hours ago, KingTdiGGiTTy said:

With that many connected devices your PC might just take a little longer to identify and verify connections and stuff before it boots up all the way.

Is there a way to make it ignore these? Are these all physical or are some logical and only visible in Windows due to drivers?

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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A lot of Ryzen systems have very slow post.

 

 

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

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57 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

A lot of Ryzen systems have very slow post.

 

 

That's unfortunate to hear. Anything I can do?

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4 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

That's unfortunate to hear. Anything I can do?

Some BIOS updates can reduce this, but it is a common problem. Google your motherboard + slow POST and look at results.

 

It's probably RAM training issues, which may or may not be resolved with improved BIOS updates or if you set up your RAM better.

 

My X370 took 20+ seconds to get to POST, Gigabyte B450 Aorus M took maybe 10.

 

 

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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9 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

Some BIOS updates can reduce this, but it is a common problem. Google your motherboard + slow POST and look at results.

It's probably RAM training issues.

Supposedly there's a setting called "Wait for F1 if error" that speeds it up by 20 seconds, I'll go take a look. I'll also go double check my boot order, that could be why it wasn't displaying on the console.

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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24 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

My X370 took 20+ seconds to get to POST, Gigabyte B450 Aorus M took maybe 10.

Update! Disabled a few things and now it gets to the ASUS logo faster but stays there for a while, but I've noticed something. It's taking the bootloader from my ST2000DM008-2FR102, my secondary drive. I don't know why it would do this since Windows is on my C:/ drive. What do I do to get it to boot from my NVMe drive? (There is no option for it under boot order)

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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15 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

Update! Disabled a few things and now it gets to the ASUS logo faster but stays there for a while, but I've noticed something. It's taking the bootloader from my ST2000DM008-2FR102, my secondary drive. I don't know why it would do this since Windows is on my C:/ drive. What do I do to get it to boot from my NVMe drive? (There is no option for it under boot order)

I think if you change the drive to GPT it will fix it? i'm not the most knowledgeable on storage stuff.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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1 minute ago, Mister Woof said:

I think if you change the drive to GPT it will fix it? i'm not the most knowledgeable on storage stuff.

Should be GPT already. A little afraid to start messing with partitions and stuff since this is my only computer. Maybe make a new thread for my situation since it's not really the main problem here?

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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4 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

Should be GPT already. A little afraid to start messing with partitions and stuff since this is my only computer. Maybe make a new thread for my situation since it's not really the main problem here?

Not a bad idea.

 

Usually when I install windows on a new system, i unplug the secondary drives because it can cause these kinds of problems

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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I've noticed a similar issue on my system lately as well. Ryzen 9 3900x Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming 32GB DDR4 RAM at 3200 using XMP profile. It used to post faster. All drivers are up-to-date, BIOS is latest version. Only hardware changes are I moved a Sata LG optical drive over to the system and added a USB3 multicard reader (internal 5.25" bay multi-card).

 

My system also boots off of an nvme M.2 SSD.

 

I think it has something to do with the polling of all devices. I turn off the boot logo (I like to see what others call "verbose archaic text" as it can be useful info). You should be able to set boot priority in the BIOS. There are more than just thos settings. If you are using UEFI only, and secure boot/TPM your boot options for drives will be limited to only those that are supported (in the case of a dual boot system with a legacy OS on one of the drives).

 

I do have 2 mechanical spinning disks in a RAID1 configuration. I am wondering if there may be an issue with one of the disks and therefore slowing boot down time. They are just data disks however, no OS on them. I really haven't investigated deeper yet. Although everything reports normally as far as the RAIDXpert2 utility, Windows Error/Event Viewer logs, S.M.A.R.T. on all drives is fine.

 

As to GPT, I don't see how GPT will alone make it faster. The point of GPT is that it allows for larger drives (MBR has a 2TB limit I think) and can have up to 128 Primary partitions or something. MBR can only have 4 Primary partitions on a drive before you have to start playing the whole extended/logical volume game. On a spinning disk, where the boot record lies matters (you'd want it on the outer rim for better performance).Typically the MBR would be on the outer rim, unless you have some wacky setup. This has to do with rotational speed, angular speed, and tangential speed. On a solid state drive, there are no moving parts; no spinning platters, no articulating read/write heads. It's physical location on the disk should not matter.

 

GPT also has some boot record redundancy in case the boot record gets corrupted. It really has nothing to do with speed, just a different format. Same with UEFI vs legacy MBR boot. There may be a difference in load times, but that is not primarily the purpose of those features, more of a side effect of.

 

MBR vs GPT :

https://www.howtogeek.com/193669/whats-the-difference-between-gpt-and-mbr-when-partitioning-a-drive/

 

Legacy BIOS vs UEFI BIOS:

https://www.howtogeek.com/56958/HTG-EXPLAINS-HOW-UEFI-WILL-REPLACE-THE-BIOS/

 

 

 

 

 

 

23+ yrs IT experience

 

MAIN SYSTEM

Operating System

Windows 10 Pro x64 21H1

Case

Antec Three Hundred Two Gaming

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8GHz 12-Core 24-Thread

Motherboard

Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming

RAM

G.Skill Trident Z RGB Series 32GB

(2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600)

Graphics Card

Asus Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Overclocked (Factory) 6GB GDDR6

Dual-Fan EVO Edition

Storage

2 × Samsung 970 EVO Plus Nvme (M.2 2280) SSD 1TB

2 × Samsung 860 QVO SATA III 6.0Gb/s SSD 1TB (RAID1 Array 1)

2 × Hitachi UltraStar HDS721010CLA330 7200RPM SATA III 3.0Gb/s 1TB (RAID1 Array 2)

PSU

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Optical Drive

LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc/DVD/CD Rewriter

Displays

HP w2408 widescreen 16:10 1920x1200 @60Hz

HP w2207 widescreen 16:10 1680x1050 @60Hz

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22 minutes ago, aramini said:

-snip-

Changed a few settings (like POST delay time) and it looks like the POST is fine for now, but for some absolutely stupid reason MS moved my boot manager to the slowest drive in the system, likely during an update if Spiceworks is anything to go by. 

 I posted a separate thread about this and I'm trying the fix right now. Wish me luck!

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MacBook Pro 14" (M1 Max, 32GB RAM)

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2 hours ago, ImAlsoRan said:

posted a separate thread about this and I'm trying the fix right now. Wish me luck!

I just solved my issue by reflashing BIOS, then going through all the settings carefully. Mine was due to some RAM timings misconfigurations.

 

I now basically have everything set to "auto" for CPU, and have RAM set to 3200. All is working good. Still takes like 45 seconds to boot (from power up to Windows login), I have a lot of devices connected, so I think that's why. But before it was taking 5 minutes just to POST.

 

Best of luck!

23+ yrs IT experience

 

MAIN SYSTEM

Operating System

Windows 10 Pro x64 21H1

Case

Antec Three Hundred Two Gaming

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8GHz 12-Core 24-Thread

Motherboard

Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming

RAM

G.Skill Trident Z RGB Series 32GB

(2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600)

Graphics Card

Asus Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Overclocked (Factory) 6GB GDDR6

Dual-Fan EVO Edition

Storage

2 × Samsung 970 EVO Plus Nvme (M.2 2280) SSD 1TB

2 × Samsung 860 QVO SATA III 6.0Gb/s SSD 1TB (RAID1 Array 1)

2 × Hitachi UltraStar HDS721010CLA330 7200RPM SATA III 3.0Gb/s 1TB (RAID1 Array 2)

PSU

Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 850W 80+ Gold

Optical Drive

LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc/DVD/CD Rewriter

Displays

HP w2408 widescreen 16:10 1920x1200 @60Hz

HP w2207 widescreen 16:10 1680x1050 @60Hz

Keyboard/Mouse

Logitech MK200 Wired Keyboard/Mouse Combo Kit

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8 minutes ago, aramini said:

I just solved my issue by reflashing BIOS, then going through all the settings carefully. Mine was due to some RAM timings misconfigurations.

 

I now basically have everything set to "auto" for CPU, and have RAM set to 3200. All is working good. Still takes like 45 seconds to boot (from power up to Windows login), I have a lot of devices connected, so I think that's why. But before it was taking 5 minutes just to POST.

 

Best of luck!

I have a way bigger issue now. I followed the tutorial and there was something missing from the tutorial. When making the EFI volume fat32, they don’t tell you to change the volume selected to it! Diskpart gave me an error within 0.1 seconds but now my C:/ partition is RAW. Disk recovery software can’t find it. How did DISKPART 0 out the drive in a fraction of a second, and can I get my data back?

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1 hour ago, ImAlsoRan said:

I have a way bigger issue now. I followed the tutorial and there was something missing from the tutorial. When making the EFI volume fat32, they don’t tell you to change the volume selected to it! Diskpart gave me an error within 0.1 seconds but now my C:/ partition is RAW. Disk recovery software can’t find it. How did DISKPART 0 out the drive in a fraction of a second, and can I get my data back?

DISKPART is a powerful and (potentially) destructive tool. If you did a CLEAN or something like that it would delete the partition table. If you haven't messed with the drive too much since then, there is a chance your data is still there. This is the reason for the caveat about backing up your data before doing any disk operations such as messing with the boot loader, partition format (MBR to GPT conversions or vice versa), issuing the wrong command in DISKPART, etc.

 

If you have a spare HDD of some sort, you can take out your Windows drive that is RAW, or disconnect it or whatever (the more you play with it or try to do anything, the higher the likelihood that the data will be overwritten and lost). Install Windows on a secondary drive (preferably a blank drive). Then download and install TestDisk. There are a lot of data recovery tools that claim to be free, however, they have limits like you can scan for partition tables and see the data but have to pay to copy it off to another drive, or there is an artificial limit imposed on the free version as to how much data you can recover.

 

Reconnect the RAW drive, but don' try to boot off of it or anything. Boot from the secondary drive you just installed Windows on. Then using TestDisk, you may be able to recover your data to a different drive. Never install a recovery tool or try to recover the data to the same drive you are performing a recovery on, lest you overwrite the data you are trying to recover.

 

If you are able to recover data to a 2nd drive, then you can format the RAW drive that you just recovered. Windows may or may not need to be reinstalled. You could try to clone the recovered partition to the drive that went RAW. But if that doesn't work, you will most likely need to re-install Windows and then migrate your recovered data back over to the drive that got hosed. Then you can copy your data back once everything is up and running again. If you can't recover anything, well, hopefully you have a recent backup. Re-install Windows and rebuild.

 

TestDisk is a DOS/Menu driven type of tool so it is not as easy to use as a GUI like Recuva or something along those lines, but I have had good luck with it and it is free. It was able to find partitions that other tools could not. But if during this process you had formatted to FAT32 (not sure why you weren't using NTFS), or tried to fix it and monkeyed around with anything partition wise, etc, before attempting data recovery, then you may simply be S**t Outta Luck.

 

https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download

 

I went through something like this about a month ago when I was trying to convert my Windows 10 from MBR to GPT so I could try out Windows 11. I didn't mess with my drive after it got hosed. I immediately did as stated above and was able to recover everything. I couldn't boot the recovered Windows partition and eventually had to reinstall Windows, but I was at least able to recover the all the data and User folder, application settings, etc and see Windows, even though it would not boot (the boot loader was royally hosed).

 

 

23+ yrs IT experience

 

MAIN SYSTEM

Operating System

Windows 10 Pro x64 21H1

Case

Antec Three Hundred Two Gaming

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8GHz 12-Core 24-Thread

Motherboard

Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming

RAM

G.Skill Trident Z RGB Series 32GB

(2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600)

Graphics Card

Asus Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Overclocked (Factory) 6GB GDDR6

Dual-Fan EVO Edition

Storage

2 × Samsung 970 EVO Plus Nvme (M.2 2280) SSD 1TB

2 × Samsung 860 QVO SATA III 6.0Gb/s SSD 1TB (RAID1 Array 1)

2 × Hitachi UltraStar HDS721010CLA330 7200RPM SATA III 3.0Gb/s 1TB (RAID1 Array 2)

PSU

Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 850W 80+ Gold

Optical Drive

LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc/DVD/CD Rewriter

Displays

HP w2408 widescreen 16:10 1920x1200 @60Hz

HP w2207 widescreen 16:10 1680x1050 @60Hz

Keyboard/Mouse

Logitech MK200 Wired Keyboard/Mouse Combo Kit

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6 hours ago, aramini said:

-snip-

This would work with Hiren’s Boot CD, right? I have a USB disk with that on it. I’m fine if most things are hosed, all I really care about is the user folder (specifically documents) and the program files folder would be useful to have.

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6 hours ago, ImAlsoRan said:

This would work with Hiren’s Boot CD, right? I have a USB disk with that on it. I’m fine if most things are hosed, all I really care about is the user folder (specifically documents) and the program files folder would be useful to have.

It might, I never tried it that way. All you can do is try. You will still need a secondary HDD (not the hosed one) to restore the data to if it works and finds anything.

 

I'd recommend taking your time, proceeding with caution, and reading up on how to use the tools (Hiren's, TestDisk, etc.) and make sure you are comfortable with the process, as you may only get one shot at it and want to keep the chances of a successful recovery high.

 

There are other Linux recovery tools as well that may work, which you could use with a Linux live CD/USB (porteus or similar) but I'm not sure how familiar you are (if at all) with Linux.

 

https://www.cleverfiles.com/howto/raw-drive-recovery.html

 

Scroll down to Method 2 for info on using TestDisk to recover data from a RAW partition. There's a link to a step-by-step guide.

23+ yrs IT experience

 

MAIN SYSTEM

Operating System

Windows 10 Pro x64 21H1

Case

Antec Three Hundred Two Gaming

CPU

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8GHz 12-Core 24-Thread

Motherboard

Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming

RAM

G.Skill Trident Z RGB Series 32GB

(2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200 (PC4-25600)

Graphics Card

Asus Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Overclocked (Factory) 6GB GDDR6

Dual-Fan EVO Edition

Storage

2 × Samsung 970 EVO Plus Nvme (M.2 2280) SSD 1TB

2 × Samsung 860 QVO SATA III 6.0Gb/s SSD 1TB (RAID1 Array 1)

2 × Hitachi UltraStar HDS721010CLA330 7200RPM SATA III 3.0Gb/s 1TB (RAID1 Array 2)

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Looks like TestDisk also has a live CD/USB which you could make using Hiren's boot CD/USB.

 

https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Livecd

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4 hours ago, aramini said:

-snip-

I’m familiar with Hiren’s and Linux (I actually have it on another drive) but I’d like to stay in a Windows environment since it’s, you know, NTFS, which Linux doesn’t really play nice with. I tried using DiskGenius (which only saved recovery info in memory) to no avail. It said the entire partition was 0’d out, which I don’t really believe since it said the whole disk was 0’d out except for a few bytes, which makes no sense since the entire recovery partition is intact which I assume takes up more than 7 bytes. Not sure how well TestDisk will work since nothing else found it, but this is my last shot. No idea how DISKPART was able to zero out the entire partition in 0 seconds with it stopping at 0% but supposedly it’s “all gone” and nothing sees it. Will try tonight.

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