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Keeping phones alive in hot cars

Mnky313
By Mnky313
in Phones and Tablets
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long story short I use a phone as a dashcam and actually a second phone to control navigation and music in my car (it's a 2000 model year so the phone is the navigation).
As it gets too damn hot here I've noticed the G6 I use as a dashcam has the battery starting to expand so I ordered a replacement battery for it.

I'm just curious if anyone knows of ways to prolong the life of the batteries in hot environments. Once the battery arrives I plan to set up a charging limit of 50% (both phones power on and off with the car so it only needs to have enough battery to let the phone power up when it starts charging).

Ideally I would eliminate batteries but I don't think either phone boots up with no battery connected and they need to run scripts to pause music/kill the app and stop/save recording when the car turns off anyway so they need to survive on battery for at least a few seconds.

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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Posted

You could try shielding it with thermal blocking materials like the blankets fire fighters use in emergencies.

▓ƆԀ▓ S▓₱▓Ɇ▓c▓s▓: i7 6ʇɥפᴉƎ00K (4.4ghz), Asus DeLuxe X99A II, GT҉X҉1҉0҉8҉0 Zotac Amp ExTrꍟꎭe),Si6F4Gb D???????r PlatinUm, EVGA G2 Sǝʌǝᘉ5ᙣᙍᖇᓎᙎᗅᖶt, Phanteks Enthoo Primo, 3TB WD Black, 500gb 850 Evo, H100iGeeTeeX, Windows 10, K70 R̸̢̡̭͍͕̱̭̟̩̀̀̃́̃͒̈́̈́͑̑́̆͘͜ͅG̶̦̬͊́B̸͈̝̖͗̈́, G502, HyperX Cloud 2s, Asus MX34. פN∩SW∀S 960 EVO

Just keeping this here as a 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̌̅̒̾̈́̆͌̌̾̎̽̐̅̏́̈̔͛̀̋̃͊̒̓͗͒̑͒̃͂̌̄̇̑̇͛̆̾͛̒̇̍̒̓̀̈́̄̐͂̍͊͗̎̔͌͛̂̏̉̊̎͗͊͒̂̈̽̊́̔̊̃͑̈́̑̌̋̓̅̔́́͒̄̈́̈̂͐̈̅̈̓͌̓͊́̆͌̉͐̊̉͛̓̏̓̅̈́͂̉̒̇̉̆̀̍̄̇͆͛̏̉̑̃̓͂́͋̃̆̒͋̓͊̄́̓̕̕̕̚͘͘͘̚̕̚͘̕̕͜͜͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͝͠ͅS̷̢̨̧̢̡̨̢̨̢̨̧̧̨̧͚̱̪͇̱̮̪̮̦̝͖̜͙̘̪̘̟̱͇͎̻̪͚̩͍̠̹̮͚̦̝̤͖̙͔͚̙̺̩̥̻͈̺̦͕͈̹̳̖͓̜͚̜̭͉͇͖̟͔͕̹̯̬͍̱̫̮͓̙͇̗̙̼͚̪͇̦̗̜̼̠͈̩̠͉͉̘̱̯̪̟͕̘͖̝͇̼͕̳̻̜͖̜͇̣̠̹̬̗̝͓̖͚̺̫͛̉̅̐̕͘͜͜͜͜ͅͅͅ.̶̨̢̢̨̢̨̢̛̻͙̜̼̮̝̙̣̘̗̪̜̬̳̫̙̮̣̹̥̲̥͇͈̮̟͉̰̮̪̲̗̳̰̫̙͍̦̘̠̗̥̮̹̤̼̼̩͕͉͕͇͙̯̫̩̦̟̦̹͈͔̱̝͈̤͓̻̟̮̱͖̟̹̝͉̰͊̓̏̇͂̅̀̌͑̿͆̿̿͗̽̌̈́̉̂̀̒̊̿͆̃̄͑͆̃̇͒̀͐̍̅̃̍̈́̃̕͘͜͜͝͠͠z̴̢̢̡̧̢̢̧̢̨̡̨̛̛̛̛̛̛̛̛̲͚̠̜̮̠̜̞̤̺͈̘͍̻̫͖̣̥̗̙̳͓͙̫̫͖͍͇̬̲̳̭̘̮̤̬̖̼͎̬̯̼̮͔̭̠͎͓̼̖̟͈͓̦̩̦̳̙̮̗̮̩͙͓̮̰̜͎̺̞̝̪͎̯̜͈͇̪̙͎̩͖̭̟͎̲̩͔͓͈͌́̿͐̍̓͗͑̒̈́̎͂̋͂̀͂̑͂͊͆̍͛̄̃͌͗̌́̈̊́́̅͗̉͛͌͋̂̋̇̅̔̇͊͑͆̐̇͊͋̄̈́͆̍̋̏͑̓̈́̏̀͒̂̔̄̅̇̌̀̈́̿̽̋͐̾̆͆͆̈̌̿̈́̎͌̊̓̒͐̾̇̈́̍͛̅͌̽́̏͆̉́̉̓̅́͂͛̄̆͌̈́̇͐̒̿̾͌͊͗̀͑̃̊̓̈̈́̊͒̒̏̿́͑̄̑͋̀̽̀̔̀̎̄͑̌̔́̉̐͛̓̐̅́̒̎̈͆̀̍̾̀͂̄̈́̈́̈́̑̏̈́̐̽̐́̏̂̐̔̓̉̈́͂̕̚̕͘͘̚͘̚̕̚̚̚͘̕̕̕͜͜͝͠͠͝͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͝͝͝ͅͅͅī̸̧̧̧̡̨̨̢̨̛̛̘͓̼̰̰̮̗̰͚̙̥̣͍̦̺͈̣̻͇̱͔̰͈͓͖͈̻̲̫̪̲͈̜̲̬̖̻̰̦̰͙̤̘̝̦̟͈̭̱̮̠͍̖̲͉̫͔͖͔͈̻̖̝͎̖͕͔̣͈̤̗̱̀̅̃̈́͌̿̏͋̊̇̂̀̀̒̉̄̈́͋͌̽́̈́̓̑̈̀̍͗͜͜͠͠ͅp̴̢̢̧̨̡̡̨̢̨̢̢̢̨̡̛̛͕̩͕̟̫̝͈̖̟̣̲̖̭̙͇̟̗͖͎̹͇̘̰̗̝̹̤̺͉͎̙̝̟͙͚̦͚͖̜̫̰͖̼̤̥̤̹̖͉͚̺̥̮̮̫͖͍̼̰̭̤̲͔̩̯̣͖̻͇̞̳̬͉̣̖̥̣͓̤͔̪̙͎̰̬͚̣̭̞̬͎̼͉͓̮͙͕̗̦̞̥̮̘̻͎̭̼͚͎͈͇̥̗͖̫̮̤̦͙̭͎̝͖̣̰̱̩͎̩͎̘͇̟̠̱̬͈̗͍̦̘̱̰̤̱̘̫̫̮̥͕͉̥̜̯͖̖͍̮̼̲͓̤̮͈̤͓̭̝̟̲̲̳̟̠͉̙̻͕͙̞͔̖͈̱̞͓͔̬̮͎̙̭͎̩̟̖͚̆͐̅͆̿͐̄̓̀̇̂̊̃̂̄̊̀͐̍̌̅͌̆͊̆̓́̄́̃̆͗͊́̓̀͑͐̐̇͐̍́̓̈́̓̑̈̈́̽͂́̑͒͐͋̊͊̇̇̆̑̃̈́̎͛̎̓͊͛̐̾́̀͌̐̈́͛̃̂̈̿̽̇̋̍͒̍͗̈͘̚̚͘̚͘͘͜͜͜͜͜͜͠͠͝͝ͅͅͅ☻♥■∞{╚mYÄÜXτ╕○\╚Θº£¥ΘBM@Q05♠{{↨↨▬§¶‼↕◄►☼1♦  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I would not keep a lion battery in the car. For example where I live, temperatures hit 40c regularly on summer and even 50c. I have a Galaxy S4 mini I run without battery, I desoldered the connector from the motherboard and wired a LM2596 (set it to 3.7v) directly to the motherboard and LM2596 is powered by a laptop power brick. You can in theory wire your phone to the car battery (using a LM2596) and it should be enough to keep it powered overnight or for a week or two.

mY sYsTeM iS Not pErfoRmInG aS gOOd As I sAW oN yOuTuBe. WhA t IS a GoOd FaN CuRVe??!!? wHat aRe tEh GoOd OvERclok SeTTinGS FoR My CaRd??  HoW CaN I foRcE my GpU to uSe 1o0%? BuT WiLL i HaVE Bo0tllEnEcKs? RyZEN dOeS NoT peRfORm BetTer wItH HiGhER sPEED RaM!!! dId i WiN teH SiLiCON LotTerrY? yOu ShoUlD dEsHrOuD uR GPU. my SYstEm iS UNDerPerforMiNg iN WarzONE. can mY Pc Run WiNdOwS 11 ?? woUld BaKInG MY GRaPHics card fIX it? MultimETeR TeSTiNG!! aMd'S GpU DrIvErS aRe as goOD aS NviDia's YOU SHoUlD oVERCloCk yOUR ramS To 5000C18

 

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6 minutes ago, Levent said:

I would not keep a lion battery in the car. For example where I live, temperatures hit 40c regularly on summer and even 50c. I have a Galaxy S4 mini I run without battery, I desoldered the connector from the motherboard and wired a LM2596 (set it to 3.7v) directly to the motherboard and LM2596 is powered by a laptop power brick. You can in theory wire your phone to the car battery (using a LM2596) and it should be enough to keep it powered overnight or for a week or two.

Interesting, would it cause problems if I plug the phone in while it's battery contacts are connected to the car battery/LM2596? I currently leave the phones plugged in but they are only powered when I turn the car on (this makes it easy to power on and off the phones with the car).

If I were to wire the battery contacts to only have power when the car is on that would probably cause problems with recordings not saving as well as a weird issue I have with my music player (if I shutdown the phone without pausing the music and killing the app it always opens to the same song in the same shuffle order for whatever reason).

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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8 minutes ago, Mnky313 said:

Interesting, would it cause problems if I plug the phone in while it's battery contacts are connected to the car battery/LM2596? I currently leave the phones plugged in but they are only powered when I turn the car on (this makes it easy to power on and off the phones with the car).

If I were to wire the battery contacts to only have power when the car is on that would probably cause problems with recordings not saving as well as a weird issue I have with my music player (if I shutdown the phone without pausing the music and killing the app it always opens to the same song in the same shuffle order for whatever reason).

i feel like a standard double DIN headunit replacement that supports android auto would do you a lot of good. 

get a DIN adapter for your car and rip out the old stereo, then replace it with a new aftermarket unit.

a lot of them support a dashcam input and a rear cam too. it's a massive modernization for an old car. 

what model car do you have?

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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57 minutes ago, VioDuskar said:

i feel like a standard double DIN headunit replacement that supports android auto would do you a lot of good. 

get a DIN adapter for your car and rip out the old stereo, then replace it with a new aftermarket unit.

a lot of them support a dashcam input and a rear cam too. it's a massive modernization for an old car. 

what model car do you have?

I can't stand android auto (unless it's self contained and doesn't rely on a separate phone.), I change ROMs/phones/reset my phone way too often to deal with it. The phone I have for nav/music has an extra SIM card in it for voice commands and navigation.

But there are aftermarket head units that run android so that's fine. Problem is cost, I have all these phones because I get them for really cheap if not free, that's why I like using them for weird things like this.

I'm not completely opposed to getting an actual dashcam and aftermarket head unit but I probably won't do it right now. 

As for modernization, I don't really care about a backup camera.

I have a Jeep Cherokee (XJ), it's single din (or technically 1.5 din?).

Edited by Mnky313
typo

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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3 hours ago, Mnky313 said:

Interesting, would it cause problems if I plug the phone in while it's battery contacts are connected to the car battery/LM2596? I currently leave the phones plugged in but they are only powered when I turn the car on (this makes it easy to power on and off the phones with the car).

If I were to wire the battery contacts to only have power when the car is on that would probably cause problems with recordings not saving as well as a weird issue I have with my music player (if I shutdown the phone without pausing the music and killing the app it always opens to the same song in the same shuffle order for whatever reason).

I am not sure how LG G6 is but if battery isnt removable, I wouldnt do this. That would mean battery is connected via ribbon cable and replacing and soldering to the pads of those is never fun. In your case, I highly suggest not using that device as a dashcam. Phones heat up quite a lot when recording videos even at low bitrates and lower resolutions and ambient temperature will be much higher than normal so there is a really good chance you will blow that cell up. In any case, how you wire a LM2596 is simple, you feed an input voltage (between 3-25v I think) and you set its output voltage to match the battery nominal voltage then wire that to where battery is connected (you can also just set it to 5v and use a USB cable to charge the phone the usual way). You can run a relatively small gauge wire to the car battery and wire LM2596 close to the phone.

mY sYsTeM iS Not pErfoRmInG aS gOOd As I sAW oN yOuTuBe. WhA t IS a GoOd FaN CuRVe??!!? wHat aRe tEh GoOd OvERclok SeTTinGS FoR My CaRd??  HoW CaN I foRcE my GpU to uSe 1o0%? BuT WiLL i HaVE Bo0tllEnEcKs? RyZEN dOeS NoT peRfORm BetTer wItH HiGhER sPEED RaM!!! dId i WiN teH SiLiCON LotTerrY? yOu ShoUlD dEsHrOuD uR GPU. my SYstEm iS UNDerPerforMiNg iN WarzONE. can mY Pc Run WiNdOwS 11 ?? woUld BaKInG MY GRaPHics card fIX it? MultimETeR TeSTiNG!! aMd'S GpU DrIvErS aRe as goOD aS NviDia's YOU SHoUlD oVERCloCk yOUR ramS To 5000C18

 

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27 minutes ago, Levent said:

I highly suggest not using that device as a dashcam.

funny because it's the only device I've used that hasn't had thermal shutdown issues when using it as a dashcam, both my Note9 and an S5 I tried both shut down randomly.

This actually lines up with LG's claims about how the phone's battery won't overheat (in temps up to 150 F). Though I'm sure they didn't test while recording which will probably cause even more heat.

As for connecting it to the car battery. Yeah, the G6's battery is connected via a tiny snap-in connector and a ribbon cable, I'm probably not going to try and solder anything to the board. And I don't have a reason to run a wire to the car battery and voltage regulator just to plug it in via USB, I might as well just keep using the cigarette lighter USB adapter.

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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5 hours ago, Mnky313 said:

I can't stand android auto (unless it's self contained and doesn't rely on a separate phone.), I change ROMs/phones/reset my phone way too often to deal with it. The phone I have for nav/music has an extra SIM card in it for voice commands and navigation.
But there are aftermarket head units that run android so that's fine. Problem is cost, I have all these phones because I get them for really cheap if not free, that's why I like using them for weird things like this.

I have a Jeep Cherokee (XJ), it's single din (or technically 1.5 din?).

https://jeepcables.com/xj-double-din-radio-install-kit-97-01/
this is a doubleDIN frame for your jeep. 

android auto is simply click yes to confirm and go. android 10+ should have it baked into the OS now with no need to download the app anymore. 
the setup is pretty effortless. 

all of the android head units are super Chinese blocks. setup and keeping them stable is a monster. I have one in my car. my wife has an alpine. 

Here is one that supports a SIM for 4G. 
https://www.amazon.com/JOYING-Android-Touchscreen-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B08JQ8MRMX/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/139-5552791-8477063?pd_rd_w=TODrq&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=KE9RYJH3B625Z76F7SDH&pd_rd_r=bfcb65ea-ee02-4755-b52d-683ee67453ea&pd_rd_wg=H5P72&pd_rd_i=B08JQ8MRMX&psc=1


I use Nova Launcher to  customize the start screen, and HeadUnit Reloaded on the XDA store to get it to work with android auto. 

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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46 minutes ago, VioDuskar said:

android auto is simply click yes to confirm and go. android 10+ should have it baked into the OS now with no need to download the app anymore. 
the setup is pretty effortless. 

Android auto is just as simple as bluetooth, it's simple 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time it either doesn't work, starts cutting out, randomly wont connect, randomly kills the music app, decides to not find the music, etc.

I want to get in my car, start it, and go. Not fuck around with my phone for 30 seconds-5 minutes and hope it decides to stay working. Same reason I hate bluetooth especially in cars. It's too damn unreliable for cars.
 

46 minutes ago, VioDuskar said:

I use Nova Launcher to  customize the start screen, and HeadUnit Reloaded on the XDA store to get it to work with android auto.

There's a new launcher app FlowUX synesthesia that I want to try but it's $15 20 (he raised the price) and I'd like to at least see if it does what I want before spending $15 on an app.....

I used Headunit reloaded in the past but it was iffy if it wanted to work or not (I used it in whatever mode runs both the client and server on the device).
 

46 minutes ago, VioDuskar said:

https://jeepcables.com/xj-double-din-radio-install-kit-97-01/
this is a doubleDIN frame for your jeep. 

Interesting, I'll probably do something in the future once android Automotive (not Auto) head units become available but for now I'm good.

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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1 hour ago, Mnky313 said:

Android auto is just as simple as bluetooth, it's simple 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time it either doesn't work, starts cutting out, randomly wont connect, randomly kills the music app, decides to not find the music, etc.

I want to get in my car, start it, and go. Not fuck around with my phone for 30 seconds-5 minutes and hope it decides to stay working. Same reason I hate bluetooth especially in cars. It's too damn unreliable for cars.
 

There's a new launcher app FlowUX synesthesia that I want to try but it's $15 20 (he raised the price) and I'd like to at least see if it does what I want before spending $15 on an app.....

I used Headunit reloaded in the past but it was iffy if it wanted to work or not (I used it in whatever mode runs both the client and server on the device).
 

Interesting, I'll probably do something in the future once android Automotive (not Auto) head units become available but for now I'm good.

your experience seems to be one filled with growing pains. android auto works much better now than ever before. 
USB disconnect issues are nearly always the cable, sometimes they're the cable in the back of the unit. 
my wife's unit doesn't support android 11 very well, i will admit that. it doesn't like the OS integration
and she uses android 9, and it works fine, save that Spotify doesn't work well with her unit. it's specifically spotify. 

i've never had any issues with bluetooth in a car. like ever. IDK what you're talking about. 

I just don't see how a 2 spare phone setup can be easier than a head unit and android auto with automatic DVR. 
at the end of the day you can only do what works best for you, the user. 

 

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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9 hours ago, Mnky313 said:

long story short I use a phone as a dashcam and actually a second phone to control navigation and music in my car (it's a 2000 model year so the phone is the navigation).
As it gets too damn hot here I've noticed the G6 I use as a dashcam has the battery starting to expand so I ordered a replacement battery for it.

I'm just curious if anyone knows of ways to prolong the life of the batteries in hot environments. Once the battery arrives I plan to set up a charging limit of 50% (both phones power on and off with the car so it only needs to have enough battery to let the phone power up when it starts charging).

Ideally I would eliminate batteries but I don't think either phone boots up with no battery connected and they need to run scripts to pause music/kill the app and stop/save recording when the car turns off anyway so they need to survive on battery for at least a few seconds.

No offense but you trust leaving a phone out in the open inside your car? Your not afraid that someone will smash your window in to take it? 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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48 minutes ago, VioDuskar said:

your experience seems to be one filled with growing pains. android auto works much better now than ever before. 
USB disconnect issues are nearly always the cable, sometimes they're the cable in the back of the unit. 
my wife's unit doesn't support android 11 very well, i will admit that. it doesn't like the OS integration
and she uses android 9, and it works fine, save that Spotify doesn't work well with her unit. it's specifically spotify. 

i've never had any issues with bluetooth in a car. like ever. IDK what you're talking about. 

I just don't see how a 2 spare phone setup can be easier than a head unit and android auto with automatic DVR. 
at the end of the day you can only do what works best for you, the user. 

Idk, every time I complain about bluetooth, android auto, windows 10, etc. It seems like I'm the only ones with these issues. Maybe I'm just cursed.

I have never had bluetooth work reliably, tried multiple phones, multiple cars, nothing. Always the same shit. Same with random disconnect issues, I've tried multiple cables and phones, still have it happen randomly (in fact today I had it happen with my mother's car and phone, pandora kept crashing and when I manually killed it and cleared cache it allowed me to play music again but it still said it wasn't playing on the head unit.

As for 2 phones, for me it is more convenient as there is nothing I have to do when I get in the car, I get in & turn the key then the phone boots up and music starts playing. Even if my phone is dead or even if it's a completely different phone because it's isolated from my main phone. Also it syncs music with my computer and main phone so if I add a song to the playlist the car phone will download it, this eliminates all cell dropout issues (which happens a LOT here because service is ass).

I get it's not convenient for a lot of people but it works great for me (except the overheating part...)

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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1 minute ago, Mnky313 said:

bluetooth, android auto, windows 10,

Bluetooth issue with Windows 10 are a thing. Its a horrific experience. Which is why my gaming machine has a wired headset and my MacBook uses a Bluetooth headset. So its not just you. Also my experience with Android Auto caused me to switch to an iPhone. I found the experience was unreliable and buggy as hell. Apple CarPlay works much better for me. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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10 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

No offense but you trust leaving a phone out in the open inside your car? Your not afraid that someone will smash your window in to take it? 

Yeah, Haven't had any issues. This is one of the reasons I am considering integrating the music/nav phone into the dash and replacing the camera phone with a dashcam though.

why no dark mode?
Current:

Watercooled Eluktronics THICC-17 (Clevo X170SM-G):
- CPU: i9-10900k @ 4.9GHz all core
- GPU: RTX 2080 Super (Max P 200W)
- RAM: 32GB (4x8GB) @ 3200MTs

- Storage: 512GB HP EX NVMe SSD, 2TB Silicon Power NVMe SSD
- Displays: Asus ROG XG-17 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), IPS 1080p@240Hz (G-Sync), Gigabyte M32U 4k@144Hz (G-Sync), External Laptop panel (LTN173HT02) 1080p@120Hz

Asus ROG Flow Z13 (GZ301ZE) W/ Increased Power Limit:
- CPU: i9-12900H @ Up to 5.0GHz all core
- dGPU: RTX 3050 Ti 4GB

- eGPU: RTX 3080 (mobile) XGm 16GB
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 5200MTs

- Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD, 1TB MicroSD
- Display: 1200p@120Hz

Asus Zenbook Duo (UX481FLY):

- CPU: i7-10510U @ Up to 4.3 GHz all core
- GPU: MX 250
- RAM: 16GB (8x2GB) @ 2133MTs

- Storage: 128GB SATA M.2 (NVMe no worky)
- Display: Main 1080p@60Hz + Screnpad Plus 1920x515@60Hz

Custom Game Server:

- CPUs: Ryzen 7 7700X @ 5.1GHz all core

- RAM: 128GB (4x32GB) DDR5 @ whatever it'll boot at xD (I think it's 3600MTs)

- Storage: 2x 1TB WD Blue NVMe SSD in RAID 1, 4x 10TB HGST Enterprise HDD in RAID Z1

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