I need HELP with my new house...

[Geneslaw]

6:54

Quote

To my knowledge there is no smart thermostat that will run on two wires

 

My Eneco Toon is a smart thermostat that uses OpenTherm to run over two wires. I think it can also do on/off, but you really want OpenTherm. Does both power and communication over just the two wires. 

[tierschat]

As far as I know you have a Homeassistant Server running, these work great with that: Wi-Fi Relays - Denkovi A E LTD

[Pyr0monk3y]

I know the "Whole Home Water Cooling" video is a long way off, but I'm already excited for it. I want to see them apply everything they learned from the whole room water cooling project. It would be pretty sweet to see 3kW of heat being dissipated by one radiator.

 

McMaster has you covered for radiators meant for this exact purpose.  CAD models are already provided for designing mounting solutions. They're expensive but maybe still cheaper than chaining a bunch of PC radiators together to get the same cooling capacity... unless a PC radiator supplier sponsors the project.

 

It would also be neat to see a thermostat in-line to keep the coolant from going sub-ambient in the winter.  

 

I daydream about doing this all the time but I can't do it where I currently live.  I look forward to seeing Linus try it.

[plydman]

Do the home theather room in vantablack, you can do the most insane electronics stuff but that would be something special... It Would make playing games / movies in the dark realy cool and realy make the screen pop..

[GodAtum]

His house is bigger then all of his employees' put together!

[xOperator]

Linus should just get rid of that boiler system and update to Central HVAC, update the wiring to include the signal/white/control wire for their thermostats.

I'm not a HVAC expert, but I replaced my system with 3 AC units, new heater, and everything was dual stage.

 

Since they have multiple floors (speaking from personal experience). I would have a structured closet on each floor to allow for homeruns/demarc patch panels for each floor for future proofing.  If you are in the colocation/data center world, you will know what I mean by demarc,

 

If they want to run cables to another room, on lets say, the 2nd floor, instead of running it all the way down to the basement, can just run the cable on the subfloor spacing in between the 2nd floor and 3rd floor, to this demarc panel. Can come in handy when adding additional APs

 

Each of my structured closets, also have power, in case I add a switch. On my top floor, I have an Ubiquiti Switch XG 16 installed and a Ubiquiti Switch Pro 24 PoE. I have 21 POE cameras connected on this floor + connection to another POE switch on this floor. The XG 16 is connected via 10g SFP fiber to another switch that is connected to my router on bottom floor.

 

Also run the wires in a conduit between floors, to help with ethernet or fiber pulling I personally ran armored fiber between each floor, 4 fibers, only 2 connected on each floor, others are spares, inside a PVC pipe.

 

Not sure if 240 volt is standard in Canada, but might want to run a 240 volt line to the basement for servers, etc.

Since they are not moved in, perfect time to remodel

 

For the basement, he has concrete walls, you will need to add sound absorbing materials on them.

For example: https://youtu.be/Wmcz3TWJT2s He should reach out to AV experts.

Edit: basically what King_PIN says on page 2

 

 

And if its in the budget, there are windows that can turn transparent when an electric current goes through them. Perfect spy on the kids window

[Yoinkerman]

Don't forget a lan centre will probably also want a TV for consoles and movies, especially if the kids are ever going to have friends over.

 

If it was me, I'd either not put in dedicated desks in the lan centre because then you're stuck with them like upstairs, or put in only one or two.  Part of growing into a young adult is having some agency in your own spaces that you use and setting up a LTT office lan room at home would really cramp that, as then it's not built with the kids wants and interests in mind, and will just remind them they're using loaned equipment in dad's lan room.  Which is fine when they're young, but stifling when they're older.

 

That being said the only real options are to build insulated walls inside the lan room and theatre room for sound/power/networking reasons.  Don't want late night kids waking up the house cause they're yelling while playing games.  Then lots of outlets and rj45 ports in the walls to accommodate multiple floor plans.  Remember to not staple it all down so someone can pull a new 999gb/s cable in 2030 instead of cutting the walls open.  It's a bit outdated but running a dedicated switch in the lan room so you don't have 16 ports going back to the server room going unused 99% of the time isn't a terrible idea either.  

 

 

 

 

[MS2-3493]

On 7/14/2021 at 5:00 PM, Plouffe said:

Did Linus get a new house? Why is his face in this thumbnail full of fear? Will Brian the Electrician be making a return?! Find out on the next episode of LTT.

 

Buy Segway Ninebot Gokart PRO
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On Best Buy (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/3qnWMf
On Newegg (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/g9Bv
 

Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.

 

 

@jakkuh_t @LinusTech

Re: Watercooled solar panels

Have you looked at Photovoltaic thermal hybrid solar collectors (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photovoltaic_thermal_hybrid_solar_collector) ?

They cool the panels by taking the heat generated and dumping it into a DHW Cylinder which you can use to heat your home / water.

 

The leader in the field, imo, is the French company Dual Sun (https://dualsun.com/en/product/hybrid-panel-spring/).

These panels increase the efficiency of the PV cells by as much as 25%, while the solar thermal collectors generate as much as 3.5x the energy (in the form of heat) produced by the PV cells.

I have no idea of availability in Canada/NA or the brands that are available in your region but something to look into?

[Elsie H.]

If Linus and Yvonne are going to be using Home Assistant, they could replace some of the 90s intercom consoles with Raspberry Pi touchscreens using the Home Assistant web interface. One option for mounting the Raspbery Pi touchscreen is the Gazouta wall mount, but that might be discontinued. In that case, there are almost certainly similar designs available that could be 3D-printed in-house.

[KouKouKaChu]

On 7/16/2021 at 5:08 PM, xOperator said:

Linus should just get rid of that boiler system and update to Central HVAC, update the wiring to include the signal/white/control wire for their thermostats.

I'm not a HVAC expert, but I replaced my system with 3 AC units, new heater, and everything was dual stage.

No way. It's under floor heating, so it tends to be more uniform, and you can walk around barefoot in winter and have warm toes. Even in the basement assuming it was installed there too. Plus, air systems produce noise and help transmit sound through the house.

[Qbix]

I would be happy to offer some construction tips for Linus in this case... I work as a construction supervisor, got my own hard hat and everything...

 

There are already quite few recommendations for different thremostat solutions but ABB-Free home is quite versatile system, it's worth checking out.

There are few major issues when doing major renovations on "old" houses, first of all is to make sure that the anything that you do doesn't mess up the ventilation. Older houses tend to have something that known as natural gravitational ventilation and punching holes through outer walls tend to mess it up if the vapor barrier is not fixed in the process. Messing up the ventilation can (and will) subject the house to increased indoor humidity and localized cold spots which will be great spaces for toxic mold (and other fungi) to grow.
 

Few notes for renovation:

1) I would recommend to Linus to upgrade to use both ground source heat pump and air-source heat pump systems since he has floor heating installed. He can utilize the serveroom heat with the air-source heat pump and when that doesn't cut it there is ground source to back it up.
2) Also taping windows with sun screen film helps to keep the house cool, upgrading to three pane windows helps to keep house warm... but that is very costly.
3) Considering floor heating, some floor materials can get damaged or out of shape, carpet and vinyl plank are ones that can be used with floor heating.
4) About the movie-cave, I would recommend extra framing on the walls, accoustic dampening material inside and on them 1"x2" wood strips about inch a part on the surface

 

When working with old buildings one should always take into consideration building physics, so that the building stays safe and mold (fungi) free.

Edited July 20, 2021 by Qbix

[jakkuh_t]

On 7/16/2021 at 8:35 PM, MS2-3493 said:

@jakkuh_t @LinusTech

Re: Watercooled solar panels

Have you looked at Photovoltaic thermal hybrid solar collectors (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photovoltaic_thermal_hybrid_solar_collector) ?

They cool the panels by taking the heat generated and dumping it into a DHW Cylinder which you can use to heat your home / water.

 

The leader in the field, imo, is the French company Dual Sun (https://dualsun.com/en/product/hybrid-panel-spring/).

These panels increase the efficiency of the PV cells by as much as 25%, while the solar thermal collectors generate as much as 3.5x the energy (in the form of heat) produced by the PV cells.

I have no idea of availability in Canada/NA or the brands that are available in your region but something to look into?

These are the exact panels we are looking at!

[Klintrup]

For your underfloor heating I would take a look at Danfoss Icon + Danfoss Ally

 

Danfoss Icon would be doing the actual underfloor heating control and connect to your in-room thermostats, since you have everything pre-cabled with a 2-wire system you can get the 24V in-room thermostats which are all connected by a low-voltage (24V) 2-wire connection which would be perfect for your needs.

 

Danfoss Icon itself works fine, and you can get a specialised app module for it, however I would recommend getting a Danfoss Ally module for the Icon Master controller, which is actually a zigbee module.

From here you can choose two directions:
- Danfoss Ally zigbee controller with OpenAPI

  This will give you an Open (well documented) API that you can control your themostats from (hosted by danfoss) as well as an app for Android/IOS managed by Danfoss, allow for integration with Google home etc.

  Home assistant integration available via https://github.com/MTrab/danfoss_ally

- Implement your own API server with a zigbee usb module and connect to home assistant

  Support for both Ally and Icon is available via deConz https://github.com/dresden-elektronik/deconz-rest-plugin/wiki/Supported-Devices

 

Personally I use the Danfoss Ally+Icon combo because I also need to control a number of radiator valves, and this allows me to do so - but you can do either.

 

More information on Danfoss Icon is available here: https://www.danfoss.com/en/products/dhs/smart-heating/smart-heating/danfoss-icon/#tab-overview

More information on Danfoss Ally is available here: https://www.danfoss.com/en/products/dhs/smart-heating/smart-heating/danfoss-ally/

Danfoss API Documentation is available here: https://developer.danfoss.com/

 

The entire system is relatively inexpensive, a 10 channel master controller is available for 210 CAD here in Denmark, however you may need to have your heating manifold replaced to be compatible with the actuator-valves, unless your existing valves are re-usable (I'm currently using 24V Wavin thermo actuators since they came pre-installed on my infloor heating system).

 

The Icon system also supports multiple master controllers connected via radio-link, so you can have a remote house and control this via the same master controller and a single zigbee radio unit.

 

I have been running this for a couple of months now and I'm quite happy with it, currently I don't have Home Assistant up and running, but it's on my to-do list once I get a multi-node K8S system up and running, but the app allows me to do everything I need here and now, and then I'm able to build on that later, which is nice.

 

Also  you can get thermostats with IR floor sensors so you can always keep your floor warm making it comfortable to walk on while barefoot (can be controlled per room) without necessarily working towards a specific room temperature, which is really nice for bedrooms and bathrooms.

[MS2-3493]

On 7/21/2021 at 4:21 PM, jakkuh_t said:

These are the exact panels we are looking at!

 

Awesome, as a followup to that I know Linus said in the video he wasn't interested in replacing his DHW Cylinders, but in the EU Viessmann make cylinders that are designed with coils inside them to connect to panels like these and heat the water stored in them. Pair up really well with wet underfloor heating like in the new place.

There are also retrofit kits as well, but anecdotally I've heard that they aren't as reliable with increased heat loss and a higher likelihood of leaks.

 

A well designed system could heat a house with no external heat energy input 6-8 months a year; in Vancouver I would guess you would get year round heating without external fuel as long as you use a large enough buffer vessel and a big enough array of panels.

Also add in an air source heat pump and Linus woukd have an extremely energy efficient heating system and depending on how his cooling system works, he could probably run his cooling through the same system on a seperate loop.

 

 

[SaltedCoffee]

Automatization, most of your problems with the garage doors, and heating could be solved, not easily but effectively with using plcs I learned mitsubishi products, what I can offer you is an old traning software for the platform, it’s a simulator rather old but it helps you get a grip what is this.

The best solution would be the combination of plc and smart switches for the “fancy” mobile app control, from the unreal subscription fees that you pay for this garbage the price of the components would come back in a year. And like linux you can do whatever you want.

[MattWeiler]

In the video Linus mentioned that The Hook Up gave him some light switches that have motion sensors built-in which can be accessed independent of the actual switch in Home Assistant.

 

Does anyone know which switch that was?

I just recall that Linus mentioned it in passing and stated that they are very expensive.

[Voimiensumma]

On the Cinema Room acoustics, I can offer a few tips:

 

1) Read up on some literature available online, especially the Dolby "Technical Guidelines for Dolby Stereo Theatres" (1994), the "JBL Cinema Sound System Manual" (2003) and the "Dolby Atmos Home Theater Installation Guidelines" (2018). These should be available online with some Googling. Then, you can decide if you want to try to configure Atmos at home or stick to an easier surround sound type. 

 

2) How important is blocking external sounds from coming to the cinema room? This is something that can impair the listening experience. This can be treated with thicker & heavier wall, door and ceiling construction. 

 

3) How important is blocking the cinema sounds from affecting the rooms next to and above it? The cinema sound system can be heard throughout the house depending on how loud you want to make it. This can be treated with thicker & heavier wall, door and ceiling construction. 

 

4) Reverberation control within the cinema room. This is what the layman usually means with Acoustics. This is treated with the soft or porous acoustic panels inside the room. Pay attention to the thickness of the treatment, as the cinema sounds can require around 50-100mm thick sound absorption materials. At home cinemas the furniture will play a big part to help with this. 

 

5) Noise. Aircon makes noise, the projector makes noise and your AV equipment makes noise. It can be minimized by installing all of the noisy tech outside the room, but this comes with additional costs. 

 

6) At home cinemas it's often better to invest in the Tech instead of the walls. So make a budget, see how much you're willing to spend on the acoustics on top of all the tech and then work backwards from there. 

 

PS. Would be cool to see an Atmos setup configuration!

[Guest willies leg]

Here, Linus, maybe you can use this house for sale as inspiration, or just buy it and move...you know you want it:

 

 

https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/13229-Southview-Ln-Dallas-TX-75240/118222349_zpid/

 

[DMann42]

New here. I tried to send an e-mail back when the video was released but I have no idea if it went through.

 

There is a company called Salus NA that makes Wireless Relay Controllers which control 8 zones and 4 valves (24v actuators) per zone. It runs on the Zigbee standard. It has a built in 24V transformer so I'm pretty sure this is perfect for your older system.

 

Their wireless radiant thermostats will control each zone on the relay controller wirelessly (2xAA Batteries) and have terminals on the back for optional floor temperature sensors (10K NTC Thermistor).

 

The floor sensors are nice as most radiant floorheat systems don't actually run at the "warm feet" temperature people expect, but with the sensor you can set a minimum temperature for the floor and it will maintain that while also not going above the setpoint room temperature of the thermostat.

 

Here's the relay controller: https://shop.salusinc.com/pages/salus-akl08rf-relay-controller

Thermostat: https://shop.salusinc.com/pages/salus-awrt10rf-wireless-radiant-thermostat

Gateway/Hub: https://shop.salusinc.com/pages/salus-sg888zb-universal-gateway

 

Essentially, you'd just bypass the relay between the thermostat wires and actuators and plug the 2 wires for the actuators directly into the relay controller. Then you pair each thermostat to a zone and put it in the zoned room where ever you want (comes with a wall plate). It has cloud features if you wanna use the phone app, but it does not require them. The gateway can run completely offline.

 

[Mystri]

For the built in TV center you want to remove shelves from, get yourself a https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS356B-Variable-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B08XWYDT3L/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1PF8I0LH84PXE&dchild=1&keywords=dewalt%2Bcordless%2Boscillating%2Btool&qid=1629992382&sprefix=dewalt%2Bcordless%2Bosc%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-4&th=1 (I'm a Dewalt fangirl, I cant recommend anything else)  That'll get right up flush with the bottom/top/sides of the part you are keeping and take the "inside" bits off nice and neat. However, once you do that you're not going to have the center part with the door anymore... I dont know how you're going to deal with that, you cant really top or bottom mount the door if you're going to have a big tv in there, maybe you could turn the right side door into a really wide bi-fold, but I suspect it'll never hang straight, you could remove the doors entirely, but honestly the TV in a cave just looks odd to me... Personally, I'd remove the entire top part and just use the base of the built-in like a TV stand, maybe throw a piece of marble on the top of it to cover the missing wood lines (though if you want to repaint it you could use wood filler and get it smooth enough)

 

Basement/Theater/server room/LAN room: I would build a false wall in there, then you can put your in-wall speakers, cables, lighting etc. without tacky conduit running all over - It looks to be cement, which I think is a real bear to deal with when it comes to hiding wires. False wall could also give you a little bit of "soundproofing" if you use some rockwool and 5/8" drywall (you'd have to do the ceiling and decouple the new wall and a lot of other things to get "actual" sounproofing, but it should at least help contain the noise from the server room.)

 

I also suggest looking into keystones to keep your in-wall cable jacks clean; they have HDMI, Coax, USB, 3.5mm, speaker jacks, RCA/Sub-woofer, and CATX (highest I found was CAT7 shielded, though I plan to make my own CAT8 jacks eventually) with a drill and dremel you can make your own for fiber or whatever using a keystone blank.

 

I recently wired up my 1978 home for internet/coax/audio/hdmi/USB [printers] across two stories and even made my own keystone plates out of server rack plates, some white paint, and clear stickers (I plan to trim it out with a little wood molding) - I've got a home theater across two rooms on the big one - Dolby Atmos 19.2 setup in the office, USB for printers on the other side of the room, HDMI to the office TV, then there's HDMI runs to the kitchen and game room downstairs w/secondary audio 3.5mm (for remote control) & an RG6/RCA (for audio) to/from the AV receiver in the office.)  The smaller custom panel is the network & coax hub for every room in the house.  Last picture is just to show how clean looking they are compared to brush through covers; that is the printer station with a decora outlet, two CATs, & three USB 3.0 keystones.

 

You'll notice we had to open the floor up to do the wiring. Linus, you need to be careful running cable from your server room to the upstairs because of the radiant floor heating pipes. You do NOT want to hit a pipe, especially if it's in a mortar bed, you think a water cooling leak in a rig is an expensive problem? Go ahead and puncture one of your radiant heating zones... I'd suggest getting a Walabot DIY Plus to go over the area before drilling anything - https://www.amazon.com/Walabot-DIY-Plus-Smartphones-DY2PBCGL01/dp/B07XP94548/ref=psdc_553280_t1_B06Y29NXKK?th=1

 

)

 

[crashpb]

hey,
here is my late but hopefully useful suggestions for the whole home water cooling setup.

 

1. Let's start by the coolant which is going to be ..... car antifreeze . I would recommend for you to buy the ethylene glycol based ones, mix the coolant with distilled water according to the instruction on the label.
this is the most important ingredient because it allows you to mix metals and not worry about corrosion also  ethylene glycol  prevents anything to grow inside the loop.
now people are going to scream uWu toxic, UwU bad; and they are not wrong, yes  ethylene glycol  is toxic and instead you can use a Propylene glycol based antifreeze but I would advice against them. reason being most of them (in me experience) lack a lot of additives you get with proper ethylene based antifreeze that help prevent corrosion and also help lubricating stuff not to mention overall better performance of ethylene glycol based antifreeze.
In the end It's up to which one you choose however I highly recommend an ethylene glycol based one, and if you do the pluming properly you really shouldn't be worry about the toxicity of  ethylene glycol.

 

2. for the radiators  the best choice is to use the cheapest (OEM) car radiator you can get your hands on, and run a few of them in series; however take note of how cold it gets outside (where the rads gonna be) the shitty non-OEM rad's plastic reservoir might not last long being hit by suns UV and it's getting to -40C outside (I highly recommend to try and  put the rads in the shade). 
Just get SOME car radiator (not used, brand new), however if you can find a radiator repair shop you should be able to get  custom  aluminum or "copper-brass alloy" radiators to be built for you (this way it can also be a one massive rad instead of few in series, also you can avoid plastic reservoirs ) however if you were to ask me I would go for aa aluminum OEM (or a quality aftermarket one, read some reviews and look for reports of broken reservoirs ) car radiator, don't even bother going with copper it doesn't worth the extra cost.
As for the fans (if you want to use fans and not be fully passive) get some mains powered waterproof fans and use nuts and bolts (or zip ties) to put them on the rads, if you want you can also use DC fans or even the OEM fans for the car radiators but then you'll have to  worry about getting a high current dc voltage to the rads which is quite a hassle IMO.

3. as for the pluming some cheap pvc pipe will do, however do consult the pluming guy (I'm not sure about availability and price of different pipes in canada).
and for the flexible parts (i.e pluming from wall to pc) the pc water cooling soft tubing should be fine however if you  want you can get  some synthetic rubber hoses (basically car coolant hoses but smaller and not pre shaped ) you also can use silicon hoses  but they are expensive and unnecessary .
 

4.As for termination points, use some (preferably industrial, not the stuff pc watercooling manufacturers sell) non-drip quick disconnects (search flat face  quick disconnect), these QDs would be connected to the hoses using barbs. (my recommendation: buy QDs with 1/2" female threads on them and screw a brass (or whatever) hose barb to it, also I recommend using barbs and simple hose clamps  and not crimping hoses directly to QDs {in case you didn't get QDs with female threads} )

5.As for the pump I would say calculate the min head pressure you'll gonna need and take a look at grundfos circulator pumps and see if any fits the bill. on this one unfortunately I can't really be 100% sure reason being I have not done watercooling on this scale; right now my server is doing fine with a cheap aquarium pump (around 200 watts passively being dissipated at full load) but for a whole house your gonna need a beefier pump for sure, right now for a different build I'm planning to use a grundfos 15-55 pump and see how it's gonna last being on 24/7.
Also do note that you don't need that much flow rate, I can't give you a number from top of my head but to get an idea look at the flow rate of a aio watercooler your not gonna need much more than that (also do note the pump on a 120 is the same on a 360 i.e 360 is gonna have even less flow rate).

my qualification for all this?
I'm currently running my home server (Maximus 9 Extreme running a QQLS {think 9900k}) passively on water, the waterbockis connected to an aquarium pump which is in turn connected to  two car radiators outside, in summer under full AVX load the temps didn't pass 75C (package power was 200 or 250 watts I'm not sure).
also I have refilled a fair share of AIOs in the past and all them kept working for many years (all were filled with antifreeze ).

some notes:
1. don't forget to use a one way valve after your pump's outlet.
2. keep in mind the possibility of water droplets forming on the load side in the winters due to condensation (let`s say outside goes -15 and inside is 20).

 

[ChickenNuggist]

Very late to the party, but how is humidity being controlled in the winter? Wet sock humidifier in the AC ductwork, steam injection, or local humidifiers in rooms that need it? ESD gets pretty bad when temps drop and the air gets dry, and spooky old houses will take their blood-tax in the form of nosebleeds if you don't supplement it late in the year.

[ChickenNuggist]

On 7/16/2021 at 4:08 PM, xOperator said:

Linus should just get rid of that boiler system and update to Central HVAC, update the wiring to include the signal/white/control wire for their thermostats.

I'm not a HVAC expert, but I replaced my system with 3 AC units, new heater, and everything was dual stage.

 

Since they have multiple floors (speaking from personal experience). I would have a structured closet on each floor to allow for homeruns/demarc patch panels for each floor for future proofing.  If you are in the colocation/data center world, you will know what I mean by demarc,

 

If they want to run cables to another room, on lets say, the 2nd floor, instead of running it all the way down to the basement, can just run the cable on the subfloor spacing in between the 2nd floor and 3rd floor, to this demarc panel. Can come in handy when adding additional APs

 

Each of my structured closets, also have power, in case I add a switch. On my top floor, I have an Ubiquiti Switch XG 16 installed and a Ubiquiti Switch Pro 24 PoE. I have 21 POE cameras connected on this floor + connection to another POE switch on this floor. The XG 16 is connected via 10g SFP fiber to another switch that is connected to my router on bottom floor.

 

Also run the wires in a conduit between floors, to help with ethernet or fiber pulling I personally ran armored fiber between each floor, 4 fibers, only 2 connected on each floor, others are spares, inside a PVC pipe.

 

Not sure if 240 volt is standard in Canada, but might want to run a 240 volt line to the basement for servers, etc.

Since they are not moved in, perfect time to remodel

 

For the basement, he has concrete walls, you will need to add sound absorbing materials on them.

For example: https://youtu.be/Wmcz3TWJT2s He should reach out to AV experts.

Edit: basically what King_PIN says on page 2

 

 

And if its in the budget, there are windows that can turn transparent when an electric current goes through them. Perfect spy on the kids window

I've worked for a bit in HVAC. Boilers are more energy efficient than central heating, and segmented cooling is more efficient than central AC. Heat loss in ductwork along with low thermal capacity of air forces you to use more gas or electricity to treat the same space, plus you gotta push that air with enough force to circulate the whole building.

 

Canada has 240/split phase as standard for residential service. Most heavy appliances would use split phase, standard outlets would use a single 120 leg and the neutral.