3070 Ti Waterblock?

[Deadpool2onBlu-Ray]

12 hours ago, Mntlscvngr900 said:

Hey guys, thanks so much for the info! Was wondering what the update was on the thermal pads. I also bought this card and am looking to do a water cooling loop with the same block. Would love to hear what you found out.

 

Thanks again.

 

I used to have a custom loop. I don't think cooling a mid range card is worth the hassle personally 

[Mully_1989]

18 hours ago, Mntlscvngr900 said:

Hey guys, thanks so much for the info! Was wondering what the update was on the thermal pads. I also bought this card and am looking to do a water cooling loop with the same block. Would love to hear what you found out.

 

Thanks again.

 

I tried thicker pads but it effected the contact areas which caused the card to shut down after a few seconds. I’m using the original pads and work fine but the temps are close to the same when the gigabyte fans were installed which is disappointing. Noting ambient temp etc also comes into the equation here.
 

I have my card virtually mounted and it’s actually starting to leak out of the mould, it hasn’t broken through the black seal yet but not overly happy with the barrow block

[Bombastinator]

38 minutes ago, Mully_1989 said:

I tried thicker pads but it effected the contact areas which caused the card to shut down after a few seconds. I’m using the original pads and work fine but the temps are close to the same when the gigabyte fans were installed which is disappointing. Noting ambient temp etc also comes into the equation here.
 

I have my card virtually mounted and it’s actually starting to leak out of the mould, it hasn’t broken through the black seal yet but not overly happy with the barrow block

Pad thickness is critical.  Too little pad and it doesn’t reach the cooler.  Too much and it doesn’t let anything else reach the cooler.  It’s got to be dead flat all the way across, unless there’s stepping ground into the cooler.  An exact fit is required.  There’s also the thermal performance of the pad which can vary too.

[Mntlscvngr900]

56 minutes ago, Mully_1989 said:

I tried thicker pads but it effected the contact areas which caused the card to shut down after a few seconds. I’m using the original pads and work fine but the temps are close to the same when the gigabyte fans were installed which is disappointing. Noting ambient temp etc also comes into the equation here.
 

I have my card virtually mounted and it’s actually starting to leak out of the mould, it hasn’t broken through the black seal yet but not overly happy with the barrow block

Thanks again man for all the help. So the link to the one you bought appears to be broken but they do have another gigabyte 3070ti block and it actually looks slightly revamped since yours. I will most likely be getting it and let you know if I have better success with it. 

[Mully_1989]

On 3/11/2022 at 10:21 AM, Mntlscvngr900 said:

Thanks again man for all the help. So the link to the one you bought appears to be broken but they do have another gigabyte 3070ti block and it actually looks slightly revamped since yours. I will most likely be getting it and let you know if I have better success with it. 

This is the same as I have. Have you received it yet? I’m trying to find the correct thermal pad heights to order new ones 

[fron2233]

bykski chinese waterblock got me 2nd in the world port royal 3070ti zotac amp hollo worked

out much better than id hoped for 

[fron2233]

[Mntlscvngr900]

On 4/6/2022 at 8:23 AM, Mully_1989 said:

This is the same as I have. Have you received it yet? I’m trying to find the correct thermal pad heights to order new ones 

Hey Mully, so I finally got the block and the instructions are terrible I would be greatly appreciative if you could help me with a few things, but first to answer your question. I am going to try the pads that came with the card as well since they seem to be the only ones anybody had some luck with. It looks like it came with 3 blue pads and 1 black pad that is thinner I am going to try and put the black pad on the chips shown in the photo since the stock cooler had thinner pads on those chips as well, did you apply the black pad to the chips I have circled in the photo?

 

My few questions I have for you if you wouldn't mind helping me and probably many people that buy this block are:

1. It seems that some of the posts did not line up with the holes on the card, I had to move around a few posts on the block and a few nuts on the back plate so they can line up. That being said the posts on the acrylic block themselves seem to be too short to reach the back plate so i attached the black spacers to these posts that they provided. Is this how you did them as well. (In pic 2)

2. When installing the block to the board did you just screw down the 4 screws with springs (in pic 3) then install the rest of the screws through the back plate(in pic 4), there is one screw i am not sure about and it has a funky hole on the backplate, I put a question mark by. Did you install a screw into this hole before putting on the backplate, leave this whole empty, or put a screw straight through the back plate for this one.

 

Thanks so much for the help its greatly appreciated.

[Bombastinator]

1 hour ago, Mntlscvngr900 said:

Hey Mully, so I finally got the block and the instructions are terrible I would be greatly appreciative if you could help me with a few things, but first to answer your question. I am going to try the pads that came with the card as well since they seem to be the only ones anybody had some luck with. It looks like it came with 3 blue pads and 1 black pad that is thinner I am going to try and put the black pad on the chips shown in the photo since the stock cooler had thinner pads on those chips as well, did you apply the black pad to the chips I have circled in the photo?

 

My few questions I have for you if you wouldn't mind helping me and probably many people that buy this block are:

1. It seems that some of the posts did not line up with the holes on the card, I had to move around a few posts on the block and a few nuts on the back plate so they can line up. That being said the posts on the acrylic block themselves seem to be too short to reach the back plate so i attached the black spacers to these posts that they provided. Is this how you did them as well. (In pic 2)

2. When installing the block to the board did you just screw down the 4 screws with springs (in pic 3) then install the rest of the screws through the back plate(in pic 4), there is one screw i am not sure about and it has a funky hole on the backplate, I put a question mark by. Did you install a screw into this hole before putting on the backplate, leave this whole empty, or put a screw straight through the back plate for this one.

 

Thanks so much for the help its greatly appreciated.

If you happen to have a micrometer or am willing to even go to a big box store with then and do a measurement in the aisle it would probably be a mitzvah to anyone who wants to replace them later including your future self.  Pic of them also might be useful because I suspect the make and model of them can be identified from that 

[Mntlscvngr900]

27 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

If you happen to have a micrometer or am willing to even go to a big box store with then and do a measurement in the aisle it would probably be a mitzvah to anyone who wants to replace them later including your future self.  Pic of them also might be useful because I suspect the make and model of them can be identified from that 

You talking about micrometer on the thermal pads? If so I can do that. 

[Bombastinator]

2 hours ago, Mntlscvngr900 said:

You talking about micrometer on the thermal pads? If so I can do that. 

Yeah.  For some reason the thickness of pads isn’t published so people have to basically trial and error it.  It’s annoying

[Mntlscvngr900]

On 3/10/2022 at 6:20 PM, Mully_1989 said:

I tried thicker pads but it effected the contact areas which caused the card to shut down after a few seconds. I’m using the original pads and work fine but the temps are close to the same when the gigabyte fans were installed which is disappointing. Noting ambient temp etc also comes into the equation here.
 

I have my card virtually mounted and it’s actually starting to leak out of the mould, it hasn’t broken through the black seal yet but not overly happy with the barrow block

Hey Mully, I did find a better picture from barrow that shows the layout of the thermal pads a little better. Maybe you missed some spots and that is why you are seeing the higher temps. Or possibly put a too thick one in the wrong location. I defintely would have missed the  pads on that little misshapen drop down and the square next to it and would have put two black pads on the spots I circled in the pic above. My thought was I will just put them whereever the original cooler had pads. But I didn't notice the original cooler has a lower section of the heatsink that doesn't touch the chips where the mishapen pad goes on but barely hovers over it. My assumption is that with the fans blowing there is enough heatsink to pull away the those temps ambiently where with the waterblock blocking any airflow you need direct contact. Let me know what you think!

 

Would love to hear your feed back on the other questions as well. 

 

[Mntlscvngr900]

On 3/10/2022 at 6:20 PM, Mully_1989 said:

I tried thicker pads but it effected the contact areas which caused the card to shut down after a few seconds. I’m using the original pads and work fine but the temps are close to the same when the gigabyte fans were installed which is disappointing. Noting ambient temp etc also comes into the equation here.
 

I have my card virtually mounted and it’s actually starting to leak out of the mould, it hasn’t broken through the black seal yet but not overly happy with the barrow block

Hey Mully, I might be being stupid here, but correct me if I'm wrong. I think you have both of your connectors on the inlet side of your gpu block. If im seeing that correctly, that would make your temps significantly better and would also probably explain the coolant blowing out of the block. You might be building up pressure in your loop or at least in your gpu block. 

[Mntlscvngr900]

Last update for anybody who needs help in  the future. I installed this block exactly how I showed in the pics and my temps are pretty awesome I think. I put all the stock thermal pads on (my micrometer battery is dead so I didnt get the thickness, if I think about it in the future ill update) as it showed in the picture. I didnt put a screw in the ? Hole and under 98% load in warzone for about 40mins msi afterburner said max them was 45c and in the loading screens it was sitting at mid low 20s.

[MrStalsky]

Hey guys! So what was the thickness of needed thermal pads?? I'm having a pain in the a$$ finding the correct one. Please help.

[MrStalsky]

On 5/15/2022 at 11:01 PM, Mntlscvngr900 said:

Hey Mully, I might be being stupid here, but correct me if I'm wrong. I think you have both of your connectors on the inlet side of your gpu block. If im seeing that correctly, that would make your temps significantly better and would also probably explain the coolant blowing out of the block. You might be building up pressure in your loop or at least in your gpu block. 

He you found correct thicknesses? Please can you share you knowledge?

[somekidwithanm4]

38 minutes ago, MrStalsky said:

He you found correct thicknesses? Please can you share you knowledge?

Hey Stalsky, figured I would take this opportunity to update this thread. 
 

I've pretty much abandoned water blocking this card. The block I bought which was the Barrow block has never fit correctly and despite several attempts at changing pads and making it fit better, it has always either resulted in bad memory temps or bad core temps. From what it seems here in the thread, the Bykski block is the much better go to. 
 

pretty much I've also discovered that midrange cards are difficult at best to waterblock due to most individuals that want to liquid cool being in the high end, this resulting in less demand for a quality midrange card block. 
 

I know this probably isn't the reply you were hoping for and if you so get a good result please update! 

[Bombastinator]

For what it’s worth I was about ready to put an xfx SWFT 6800xt under hybrid water and roll my own because there were only full coverage waterblock for the MERC and I had pics showing the boards as not being identical. I just used Honeywell 7950 on the gpu and put it back on air and now it’s basically silent up to about 250w so I have no need of water hybrid or otherwise. I can’t run ultimate 4k high refresh  but I also don’t need to.  I’m happy with 4k mostly high and 100fps. I’m not about the numbers I’m about the usability.  I don’t play competitive shooters so nose bleed fps is unimportant, (though I could probably get fortnight going above 200 no problem.  I’ve never bothered to try)  I’m not doing max performance for the card but I don’t NEED max performance for the card.  Silent gaming load is more important to me.

Edited February 10, 2023 by Bombastinator

[MrStalsky]

On 2/10/2023 at 2:23 AM, somekidwithanm4 said:

Hey Stalsky, figured I would take this opportunity to update this thread. 
 

I've pretty much abandoned water blocking this card. The block I bought which was the Barrow block has never fit correctly and despite several attempts at changing pads and making it fit better, it has always either resulted in bad memory temps or bad core temps. From what it seems here in the thread, the Bykski block is the much better go to. 
 

pretty much I've also discovered that midrange cards are difficult at best to waterblock due to most individuals that want to liquid cool being in the high end, this resulting in less demand for a quality midrange card block. 
 

I know this probably isn't the reply you were hoping for and if you so get a good result please update! 

Hello! Thanks to you reply. Do you remember what thickness wa too smal and which one was to big? II found good quality thermal pads in Turkey. They have thicknesses like 2.25\1.25\1.75 etc.
If you used for example 2mm and 2.5mm and both didnt work may be 2.25 will do it. 
I will try to order some but delivery system here is so bad... it might take weeks to come so i would like to know in advance do i need 2.25 or 2.75 to not order both. They cost a fortune. 

[Bombastinator]

I’ve never heard of .25mm variance for thermal pads before.  It has always been .5.  I assumed that they had that much play in them.  Another option would be to use putty. I actually see putty used more than pads by manufacturers.

[somekidwithanm4]

3 hours ago, MrStalsky said:

Hello! Thanks to you reply. Do you remember what thickness wa too smal and which one was to big? II found good quality thermal pads in Turkey. They have thicknesses like 2.25\1.25\1.75 etc.
If you used for example 2mm and 2.5mm and both didnt work may be 2.25 will do it. 
I will try to order some but delivery system here is so bad... it might take weeks to come so i would like to know in advance do i need 2.25 or 2.75 to not order both. They cost a fortune. 

I sadly don't recall. I tried the ones that came with the block, the ones that came on the Card and a couple other odds and ends I had laying around. 

[MrStalsky]

5 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

I’ve never heard of .25mm variance for thermal pads before.  It has always been .5.  I assumed that they had that much play in them.  Another option would be to use putty. I actually see putty used more than pads by manufacturers.

Putty as i know is not good for 1.5+mm gaps. And i have a 2+ there so i dont know. It's hard to get anything of that kind where i am but if those 2.25 will not work ill try to use putty, Laird 607 as i know is one of the best available for common mortals.