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Microlab TMN1 4:1 FR port problem

Go to solution Solved by mariushm,

It could probably be fixed.

Could be something as simple as replacing a capacitor (half a dollar) , or it could be more complex like replacing an opamp (1-2$), some voltage regulator, some transistor, maybe the audio IC (a few dollars)

Could also be something basic like the wire going to the connector being broken / loose / not making good contact inside. 

 

Someone has to open it up, inspect the circuit board, if the flaw isn't visible directly with eyes maybe make some measurements, check various components ... that means it would cost maybe 30 minutes - 1h of work time...

 

if you're not afraid, maybe open it up and take some pictures of the electronics inside just in case it's something obvious you could fix by yourself.  Make sure you unplug it first.

 

// i see you posted this on tom's hardware as well ... doubt they can be more helpful..

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I have a microlab tmn1 4:1 which I bought in 2011. For the past couple of days, I'm noticing something off. The subwoofer has 4 port. FR, FL, SR & SL. I use only 2 speakers since my computer table isn't that big. So the issue is with the FR port. Suppose 2 speakers are connected in FR & FL. The one that is connected to FL gives off sound normal and just as loud as it should be, however, the one that is connected to FR gives off less loud sound than the one connected to FL. To narrow it down, I switched the connection and connected the speaker that was connected to FL, to FR and the one that was connected to FR, to FL. Now again, the same problem, no matter what speaker I connect to FR, it gives off a less loud sound than its counterpart. I even tested in windows' stereo sound tester and whichever one that is connected to FR gives a less loud sound indeed. Does this mean, the FR port of the subwoofer is broken and needs to fixed? Also, can it be fixed? If so, how much that would cost in US Dollars?  My windows' L/R slider is at 0 just like it always was. This is set to 0 by default and it always has been. I didn't change anything in the setting. The problem has occured a week or more ago.
 
Furthermore, suppose the subwoofer isn't fixable and no shop sells a subwoofer separately or replaces it, then please suggest a speaker equivalent to TMN1. I have Microlab TMN-9BT & Microlab TMN9U in mind but I haven't used these, users who have used these please leave a review about to the sound quality comparing to TMN1. I got a feeling that they might be better than TMN1. I don't mind looking into another brand so please leave suggestions of speakers from other brands as well. [ (Logitech, Creative, F&D, Xtreme, Amazon, Havit, Fantech, Digital X, Razer, JBL, Sony, Xiaomi, Micropack, Golden Field, Samsung, Edifier, Genius, BEAT, Remax, ReDragon), these are brands that is most available beside Microlab in my country ]
 
One more thing, I searched for Microlab's official website and on the search result there are quite a few, so not sure which one is the real one. If anyone knows of it, please add it in the reply. I tried mailing to one of the sites that I found and it said their inbox is full and getting too much email. Thank you.
  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : GIGABYTE M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4046)
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It could probably be fixed.

Could be something as simple as replacing a capacitor (half a dollar) , or it could be more complex like replacing an opamp (1-2$), some voltage regulator, some transistor, maybe the audio IC (a few dollars)

Could also be something basic like the wire going to the connector being broken / loose / not making good contact inside. 

 

Someone has to open it up, inspect the circuit board, if the flaw isn't visible directly with eyes maybe make some measurements, check various components ... that means it would cost maybe 30 minutes - 1h of work time...

 

if you're not afraid, maybe open it up and take some pictures of the electronics inside just in case it's something obvious you could fix by yourself.  Make sure you unplug it first.

 

// i see you posted this on tom's hardware as well ... doubt they can be more helpful..

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11 minutes ago, mariushm said:

It could probably be fixed.

Could be something as simple as replacing a capacitor (half a dollar) , or it could be more complex like replacing an opamp (1-2$), some voltage regulator, some transistor, maybe the audio IC (a few dollars)

Could also be something basic like the wire going to the connector being broken / loose / not making good contact inside. 

 

Someone has to open it up, inspect the circuit board, if the flaw isn't visible directly with eyes maybe make some measurements, check various components ... that means it would cost maybe 30 minutes - 1h of work time...

 

if you're not afraid, maybe open it up and take some pictures of the electronics inside just in case it's something obvious you could fix by yourself.  Make sure you unplug it first.

 

// i see you posted this on tom's hardware as well ... doubt they can be more helpful..

Yeah, man I did but it has been days since someone replied there but not as detailed as you bro, thank you so much. It would be really great if this can be fixed and by your info, doesn't seem like it would cost much, so I'll take it to the store for a better inspection, I don't wanna screw anything up myself, I am not good with sound systems' hardware 😅. Again, thank you so much for the detailed reply, this has given me the idea what things could be broken. If it is not too much trouble, could you suggest me some good sound system equivalent to the one I'm currently using? Just in case. Just mentioned the brand & model number, I'll search for the reviews myself. You don't have to list all the brands that I wrote, 1 or 2 will be enough. Thank you.

  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : GIGABYTE M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4046)
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Components can be cheap... but the diagnosis, investigation, that 30m-1h of looking and determining the flaw can cost. It wouldn't surprise me if the cost is 50-100$

That's why I suggested opening and taking some pictures, just in case it's something obvious that you could fix without going to service places.

 

No sorry, I'm not up to date on what speakers are good these days. I have my 5.1 logitech and it's good enough for me, if i need more quality i have some sennheiser headphones

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oh, ok, thanks, I will.

  • CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - CPU Cooler : Deepcool AK620 - Motherboard : ASUS TUF x570 GAMING PLUS WiFi - RAM : Corsair Vengence LPX 16 GB 3200 MHz x 2 - GPU : Zotac GeForce GTX 1660Ti Non-AMP - Case : Corsair Graphite Series 760T - Storage : GIGABYTE M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB ; Seagate Barracuda 4 TB 5400 RPM ; Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM - PSU : Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum - Display(s) : LG 24” FHD IPS 3-Side Borderless Monitor with Dual HDMI -  Keyboard : A4 Tech - Mouse : A4 Tech - Sound : Microlab TMN1 4:1 - Operating System : Windows 10 64 bit version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.4046)
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