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Dr. Strangeloop, or "How i started mining at 120mh/s on an R11) - Build thread

Tired of cooking your VRAM? Going for that dont give a @$#! look? Heres what you need:

 

1. 1/4" Aluminum plate - two for $26

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08P3SFYX5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

2. Thermal Epoxy - $17 (or get a buddy to do a quick TiG weld for you!)

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_pop?_encoding=UTF8&gen=canonical&lineItemId=mirgtrpnkmtsqny&orderId=112-5168276-7370668&packageId=1&returnSummaryId=&returnUnitIndices=&returnUnitMappingId=&shipmentId=DxSW1Gwr8

 

3. Peltier 80mmx80mm cooling water blocks (2 pack) - $30 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VMZGJPY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

 

4. Drill! (Press or hand drill) with drill bit to size of your backplate screws AND a slightly larger bit to recess your screw heads. Measure before you buy!

 

5. Method of cutting aluminum (i used a cold saw, band saw or chop saw would work too, and if you are yolked, perhaps a hacksaw?)

 

6. Backplate to be used as hole drilling template

 

7. Pump and reservoir - unavoidably the most expensive piece in this setup $46 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VHPADRW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

 

8. 92mm radiator and fan combo - $7! Yes $7 USD FOR BOTH....what??

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Q4TB1J7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

 

Step 1:

Begin by measuring the maximum size of your backplate, for the Dell series 3090 it was 100mm x 262mm

 

Step 2: 

Cut aluminum sheet to size 

 

Step 3:

Two methods of drilling holes, the preferred method for max accuracy is to clamp your old backplate to the aluminum to use as a template. If you need less downtime, you can use carbon trace paper or a very fine mechanical pencil to mark your holes. I dont recommend the second method as you will always get some variance that throws off your alignment

 

Step 4: 

Carefully measure the VRAM location and mark on your aluminum plate to ensure the 80mm block conpletely covers the VRAM. Then mix up your epoxy and use a spreader to very evenly cover the entire block before mounting. You have 4 mins so dont mess this up! 

BONUS POINTS: get a friend to put a stack of dimes around your block with a TiG welder 

 

Step 5: 

Rinse your loop components thouroughly before putting them together and letting them run outside of your system for 24 hrs with plain water. You will be so surprised how much swarf and goop will come out the next day, and this gives you a chance to check for leaks before putting it on your 2000 dollar GPU. 

 

Step 6:

Install your beautiful hand made VRAM water cooler and put the loop wherever it will fit....for now...

 

Step 7:

Coming soon, all components will be made internal to the R11 case!

 

 

 

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So you watercooled the vram on an unobtanium $2000 gpu with a homebrew microfinless block.  Wouldn’t it have been cheaper to just buy a block on alibaba?  Microfins and less money to boot. 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Per this post: 

The Alienware is just a reference design 3090.  Buy a Bykski backplate, drill holes in the apppropriate locations, and screw down a DIMM waterblock.

 

63032588351__B27F3259-CACA-4A44-9C92-8DC2AC012F5B.thumb.JPG.892f91c64f8320bba2727577fc8041e2.JPG

 

Or you can probably just put a fan on it and it'll do a good enough job if you don't have the tooling for something like this (or just buying a premade active backplate but that's more expensive and didn't exist 6 months ago when I did this)

 

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Workstation: 10850K @ 5.1Ghz || Gigabyte Z490 Ultra || ASUS TUF 3090 650W shunt, active backplate || G.Skill DDR4-3800 XMP 4x8GB || Corsair AX1500i || 11 gallon whole-house loop.

LANRig/GuestGamingBox: 9900KF @ 4.9Ghz || Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master || Gigabyte Gaming G1 1080Ti || Corsair SF600 || CPU+GPU watercooled 280 rad push only.

Server Router (Untangle): 8350K @ 4.7Ghz || ASRock Z370 ITX || 2x8GB || PicoPSU 250W, running on AX1200i from Server Storage || 11 gallon whole-house loop.

Server Compute: E5-2696v4 || Asus X99 mATX WS || LSI 9280i + Adaptec + Intel Expander || 5x10TB Seagate Enterprise Raid 6, 4x8TB Seagate Archive Backup, Corsair AX1200i (drives)  || 11 gallon whole-house loop.

Laptop: HP Elitebook 840 G3 (Intel 8350U), Razer Blade Stealth 13" 2017 (Intel 8550U)

Shelved: 9900 nonK || ASRock Z390 Taichi Ultimate || Gigabyte Z270 Gaming 9 || EVGA Titan X (Maxwell) || GTX 780

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But anyone can make this! And dont forget to add the high performance coolant:

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Heh. It high performance alright in that it resists low and high temperatures, and it’s higher performance than low proof alcohol which is what is necessary to make water have similar boiling and freezing points. At near room temperature though it’s lower performance than pure distilled water.  Water is wacky stuff chemically. It’s actually kind of hard to find a better cooling liquid.  

Edited by Bombastinator

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Im having some trouble finding a 6" or longee piece of aluminum 1/4" BSP (g1/4) threaded pipe to extend the reservoir out the top of the case. I could nab a BSP to NPT adapter, but im trying not to mix metals here (most are brass, iron, or stainless)

 

Any suggestions?

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UPDATE:

 

i was finally able to acquire a gutted Dark Side of the Moon R12 case (fantastic on two levels because i hate the white case i was forced to buy) on ebay, cost $230 with no CPU or GPU, but hey, science! Should arrive in a day or two and we can start cutting and fitment for the real deal. 

 

One thing to note, a 92mm RAD and Standard Thickness fan will barely fit in the upper HDD tray, however you will not have enough space for the lines to run past the PSU. The solution is grabbing a 14mm thick Noctua fan and some M3x20mm (if using fan guard) OR M3x16mm (if not using fan guard) screws to mount it. Alternatively, you can use silicone moubting hardware that comes with Noctua to mount, but rhis will require you to bore out the rad mounting holes to accept them. Further thermal testing needed to see if this drastically increases VRAM temps or reduces hashrate in any way. I think the biggest issue will be getting the air out the front of the case, its so stifled i will need the new one in order to see if theres a way to reduce interference and increase outflow. 

 

If anyone knows a way to disable case fan BIOS detection so i can completely ditch the front stock fan i would love to know (one less variable to worry about)

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Posted (edited)
On 5/13/2021 at 4:23 PM, Evosnipe said:

Im having some trouble finding a 6" or longee piece of aluminum 1/4" BSP (g1/4) threaded pipe to extend the reservoir out the top of the case. I could nab a BSP to NPT adapter, but im trying not to mix metals here (most are brass, iron, or stainless)

 

Any suggestions?

That’s because 1/4” pipe is too small for a lot of threading machines but is small enough to do by hand. A lot of threaded pipe is done for pipe fitters and plumbing is rarely less than 3/8” Id.  So there’s a machine shortage.   It’s on the big side but it can be done.  .

Edited by Bombastinator

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Im a real kid in a candy store, i got the new R10 chassis and stripped it down to bare metal before i realized i should snap some pics! 

 

I decided its time to go pro with this bad boy, when you get the R10-12 chassis stripped down your mind will revel with the possibilities!

 

My new gameplan, we are going full 240mmx120mm rad in the front (exhaust), keeping the 120mm stock AIO on top (exhaust), putting the beefcake 1amp stock fan in the bottom along with a partner ML120 Pro (intake), blocking the rear mesh, 3D printing removeable filter element, and mounting the reservoir/pump under the top cover for a complete stealth look!

 

Oh yea, and i got a CNC mill on the way for making my own backplate and gpu combo cooler, pro style. This is gonna be legit!

 

 

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Well after getting the 240x120mm rad i realized the removeable shelf on the front of the case is necessary for mounting the psu. So i took the chromax black 92mm fan off my noctua low profile cooler and slapped it in with the cheap 92mm radiator and 1/8" neoprene rubber strip on the top and bottom. Success! It fits like a champ and has room for the PSU to swing out. 

 

In other news, my CNC mill is on the way and i cleaned out the old closet to fit up a $15 Ikea enclosure. I intend to use the mill with a high volume, low pressure flood system for chip clearing and cooling while cutting. Never ran a mill before so this should be fun!

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MPQN8SV/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_glt_fabc_GPK2JWY6K4X78MFQVX2Q

 

 

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Getting close to firing it up for the first time

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